spark plugs

[tr5066]

Has anyone replaced the spark plugs in the 3.8 V-6? How do you remove the upper intake to get at the right side plugs?

 

[tmealer]

I can't believe there's not more posts about spark plug change. I have a '10 3.8 that needs them, and I can't find anyone who's done it. Really?? I'm capable of doing it myself, but I really need the torque settings for the different bolts, and spark plugs. Just can't believe no one has answered your post.

 

[Ambush]

REVIVING OLD THREAD:

I just completed this task yesterday. I was at 110806 miles on the Genny. Took about 3.5 hours as I was very very careful.
The most important things to remember are:

1. Get correct plugs (Per Hyundai Service manual - NGK 93135/DILKR7A11)
2. Tools (Sockets/ratchet/extension - 10mm, phillips screwdriver, PRY Bar, metal tray to catch your screws)
3. Time (if you are not mechanically inclined you will need time)
4. Extra person
5. Prayer + Patience (THE WHOLE TIME )

The drivers side is not that bad. It is not EASY but it is not hard either. The plug closest to the firewall will make you fight a bit. Just dont be too forceful and you will be fine. User your 10mm socket with extension to remove spark plug boots off and a 10mm bot that is holding a wire loom in the back. You will need to make it loose to you can take out the plugs. Turn AWAY from the car to make them loose.
Add some boot grease + anti sieze if you want. Not needed but since I worked at AZ for 3 years why not? When installing the plug back, use your hands first (take off the ratchet and keep extension on) and tighten. Learned from my late mechanic if you force a plug back in with the tool, you could damage the heads.

Passenger side: You can LITERALLY see all 3 plugs and they look easy to get to after you remove the intake (really easy - use screw drive to loosen the clamps and disconnect 1 hose and plug). The one closest to the firewall is simple. When you are done with it, dont put the boot back on yet. You need the room to remove the other 2. Now here is the FUN part.

With your 10mm, there will 4 intake screws to remove and 2 small screws to remove up front. They need to be removed before you can wiggle it up. On the side, near the plug closest to the front of the car, you will see a little opening that will allow you to lift up on. Using your PRY bar, gently get some leverage so you can maneuver the plug boot up (10mm) and remove it (You may need the 2nd person to hold the pry bar). Remember be gentle. This way you wont have to take the WHOLE thing off! Once you are able to get the plug boot off, let it dangle too. The middle one is the hardest.

NOW look for an empty space near the plug closet to the front of the car and GENTLY (well you may have to use some HE-MAN power) lift up to get access to the 10mm bolt and remove plug. You will need pry bar + 2nd person to help. You only need a few inches. Again, BE CAREFUL! It is still attached to the throttle body. I am saving you from having to remove all of that stuff. Be gentle. PLEASE! You will grunt a bit but BE CAREFUL. I took some pix and need to post them up later.
Once you remove that middle plug and replace, plug the boot back on and rest. You may still need the pry bar for leverage a bit.

You are done now. Put everything back together. Check everything then start the car up.
I could tell a difference really quick like. No hesitation, no more shakes at idle. I drove it for about 5 - 10 miles. It was awesome. Saved $500!!!!!

This is just general but I hope str8 forward.

Thanks!!

Ambush