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Subwoofer Removal

jlseven

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Does anyone have any info on how to remove the stock subwoofer? Can it be done from the trunk? Does the rear seat need to be removed? Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
I had the same aftermarket amp and sub installed that I have used in my last 3 cars, and the amount of bass is much less than before. I read in some other threads that the trunk may be sealed too tight to allow the sound to enter the cabin so removing the stock sub should help. In my old Infiniti M35 I had to remove the back seat to get to the sub in the rear deck so I am trying to figure out the easiest way to do so in this car.
 
Yup. You need to remove the back seat. Then the deck, then..... I haven't done it, but I have subscribed to the full set of manuals and after reading the procedure a few times, I decided to not go that route.

So I siply added an amp in line with the sub audio wires. THAT was much easier, but still required the manual to figure out the harness coming from the stock amp in the trunk, driver's side. I have a post on it somewhere.
 
Sounds like some work to pull the subwoofer. You might consider a custom subwoofer box that is built to play through the ski opening in the back seat. I had a custom box built for my Accord (back in the 90s) that played through the deck, it was very loud for a pair of 10"s.
 
I looked into removing the stock sub and decided it wasn't worth it. I just put in a very strong 10" ported enclosure (JBL) paired with a strong amp (Memphis Audio) and there was no need to remove the factory sub. Admittedly the difference between trunk open and trunk closed is dramatic but I hear plenty inside the car and don't sound too ghetto rolling down the street. Also speaks to how well sound-insulated the car is.

As the installer showed me, the best position for the sub is back against the rear seat firing to the back of the trunk. I love my installer as he moved the box around and let me sample several enclosures before I went with the JBL 10".
 
Thanks to everyone for the replies!
 
Quick update on my situation, turns out the installer mistakenly connected to the mid signal instead of the bass so that is why there was so much less bass than I was used to. He corrected it and all is good without have to hassle with anything else.
 
Honestly I wish this were something dealers offered instead of some of the other markups they put on a car. I have added an aftermarket amp/sub to my last two Genesises (Genesii?) and took it to professional audio installers each time (Fry's Audio on one occasion and Best Buy on the other); it ended up being an all-day affair for each and neither had ever touched a Genesis before. It turned out okay in the end, but both commented that there was something unexpected that they ran into, and if my memory isn't failing me, I believe it was the same issue the OP's installer ran into: finding a good output signal.
 
Honestly I wish this were something dealers offered instead of some of the other markups they put on a car. I have added an aftermarket amp/sub to my last two Genesises (Genesii?) and took it to professional audio installers each time (Fry's Audio on one occasion and Best Buy on the other); it ended up being an all-day affair for each and neither had ever touched a Genesis before. It turned out okay in the end, but both commented that there was something unexpected that they ran into, and if my memory isn't failing me, I believe it was the same issue the OP's installer ran into: finding a good output signal.

You are correct. Finding the output IS the key. It only SOLID way is with the manual to find the right wires on the amp connector. That's how I did mine and got it in one.
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You are correct. Finding the output IS the key. It only SOLID way is with the manual to find the right wires on the amp connector. That's how I did mine and got it in one.

I don't look forward to this when when I pick up my second gen Genesis later this year. For me getting a car customized when it's new actually ends up taking at least 8-10 hours if not more if you wait around, more this time because of the clear bra. This is why it would be cool to have it all done at the dealer and not have to coordinate it (and also have someone who knows the car work on it).
 
Ok guys, here's a question where did u get the remote for the amp?

My insataller used in inline converter which includes the remote for the amp but its either faulty or theres signal interference coming from thr gennesis. At times when I would quickly turn on and then off the accessories the amp stayed on with sub making strong sounds (bump, bump, bump) and the third time this happened it fried my sub. I've ordered a new sub but want to change the remote feed. Any ideas where to connect it too?

I could use the acc fuse but will need to run the wire from the engine compartment to the truck, but was wondering if there was an easier way/place?
 
added these JBL 12's..this past weekend
 

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Will installing an after market sub void the warranty ? if you have a warranty .
 
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Will installing an after market sub void the warranty ? if you have a warranty .

I think the official answer may be different, but here's my take....

If I mod the audio system to add an amp, and/or sub.... don't ask the dealer to cover anything connected with the stock amp or sub. If you have an engine, tire, etc. issue, you should be covered. I HIGHLY suggest that you develop a good relationship with your dealer service department. A friend may make the difference in the future! BEEN THERE.
 
Could you please post some pics of your new sub woofers??? Thanks in advance

My setup:

Sub: JL Audio CP110LG-TW1
Amp: Memphis Audio 16-SRX1.250

G-Car%20Trunk.jpg


20141103_090627.jpg


Fantastic bass (clean, precise but weighty, VERY space efficient (lots of trunk space left). I tried a 10" Pioneer box but it did not sound very good but it was tiny (it was a sealed enclosure). I tried a custom built box with a Memphis sub but is was massive in size so I had my installer pull it. I tried an 8" version of the JBL and it sounded good but struggled a tad to push through all the seals and sound dampening Hyundai put in the trunk (very compact though).

My installer was awesome in letting me try all these setups and was pretty on point with telling me that I needed a ported enclosure to get good fill from the trunk and that the box needed to fire to the back of the trunk. He moved it around so I could hear the difference and it was significant.
 
Monolith,

I'm thinking of a very similar setup in my car, 3.8V6, but the powered version. Wanted to ask you if you experience any trunk rattle or any other noises?

My setup:

Sub: JL Audio CP110LG-TW1
Amp: Memphis Audio 16-SRX1.250

G-Car%20Trunk.jpg


20141103_090627.jpg


Fantastic bass (clean, precise but weighty, VERY space efficient (lots of trunk space left). I tried a 10" Pioneer box but it did not sound very good but it was tiny (it was a sealed enclosure). I tried a custom built box with a Memphis sub but is was massive in size so I had my installer pull it. I tried an 8" version of the JBL and it sounded good but struggled a tad to push through all the seals and sound dampening Hyundai put in the trunk (very compact though).

My installer was awesome in letting me try all these setups and was pretty on point with telling me that I needed a ported enclosure to get good fill from the trunk and that the box needed to fire to the back of the trunk. He moved it around so I could hear the difference and it was significant.
 
jlseven, did your installer have to remove the rear deck to tap into the signal going to the sub?

Quick update on my situation, turns out the installer mistakenly connected to the mid signal instead of the bass so that is why there was so much less bass than I was used to. He corrected it and all is good without have to hassle with anything else.
 
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