Wow Mike! That is an awesome explanation and I really appreciate the time spent on this reply.On the early cars - those that weren't upgraded by a TSB procedure - there are two limit switches inside the steering column. One cuts power to the tilt motor assembly when either up/down limit is reached; the other cuts power to the telescope motor when the either in/out limit is reached. These switches were notorious for going bad, getting crud in them making them trip at the wrong time, etc. To access them: remove the "knee panel" (bottom part of dash just above your feet) and then the screws that hold the bottom cover of the steering column. The steering column cover halves snap together so just removing the screws isn't enough to make the bottom part fall free... squeeze the top half along the seam to undo the snaps... I think it's the top half that has to be squeezed. It's been a while...
Once done, use a flashlight to look into the guts of the mechanism. You'll see bare aluminum cast pieces which are the main "bones" of the tilt/telescope system. On one you'll see a round hole with a threaded shaft coming through it... that shaft turns to move the steering wheel in one axis. Look to the side of that stuff - at the 9 o'clock position of the steering wheel (viewed from the driver seat) and you'll see the black plastic nubs of the switches. Those nubs will be inside slots of thin metal pieces... those pieces move with the tilt/telescope functions. Usually just pushing the switch nub back and forth a little (a long screwdriver or wooden stick/pencil/chopstick helps) is enough to restore electrical contact. If the switch is sticky though you may have to help it get to the center/neutral position. On my 2009, I got fed up with the occasional loss of function and I removed the slotted pieces - just a couple of screws. Now my switches are permanently in the center/neutral position even when the tilt or telescope is at the limit. The mechanical mechanism can't "over travel" and come apart; the switches just protect the motors from trying to run against the travel stops. Since I'm smart enough to not hold the tilt/telescope control knob in any ON position when the steering wheel reaches limits, I'm not worried about frying the motor. I removed those pieces about a year ago... so far no issues.
The TSB replaces the tilt/telescope control module with one that does not look at the limit switches; the wiring to the switches is cut as well though they're left in place doing nothing. I don't know if this new module is smart enough to monitor electrical current to the motors: the current flow will increase dramatically when the tilt or telescope reaches the limits causing the respective motor to stop turning so the module could sense that and know "tilt or telescope is at limit, cut power to the appropriate motor." Or it may be "stupid" and supply electrical power to the motor as long as you hold the control knob... which is basically what happens in my car now.
The power seats have similar travel limit sensing switches which have been known to stick... there are several posts on this website describing this problem. Wiggling those switches generally fixes the seat issue just as it does for the steering wheel issue.
Another tilt/telescope failure mode is to have the range of motion improperly restricted/limited. For example, some folks have found the tilt function goes all the way up but not down far enough. Moving the control knob in the full UP direction and then holding it there for about 30 seconds followed by moving it all the way down and holding it for 30 additional sections, fixes that issue. Same for the telescope function. It's as though the control module thinks the steering wheel tilt or telescope position is "here" when in fact it's "there." So holding the control knob for a long time lets the module eventually learn "gotta be all the way UP by now" to re-sync the module and actual steering tilt/telescope positions.
mike c.
On the early cars - those that weren't upgraded by a TSB procedure - there are two limit switches inside the steering column. One cuts power to the tilt motor assembly when either up/down limit is reached; the other cuts power to the telescope motor when the either in/out limit is reached. These switches were notorious for going bad, getting crud in them making them trip at the wrong time, etc. To access them: remove the "knee panel" (bottom part of dash just above your feet) and then the screws that hold the bottom cover of the steering column. The steering column cover halves snap together so just removing the screws isn't enough to make the bottom part fall free... squeeze the top half along the seam to undo the snaps... I think it's the top half that has to be squeezed. It's been a while...
Once done, use a flashlight to look into the guts of the mechanism. You'll see bare aluminum cast pieces which are the main "bones" of the tilt/telescope system. On one you'll see a round hole with a threaded shaft coming through it... that shaft turns to move the steering wheel in one axis. Look to the side of that stuff - at the 9 o'clock position of the steering wheel (viewed from the driver seat) and you'll see the black plastic nubs of the switches. Those nubs will be inside slots of thin metal pieces... those pieces move with the tilt/telescope functions. Usually just pushing the switch nub back and forth a little (a long screwdriver or wooden stick/pencil/chopstick helps) is enough to restore electrical contact. If the switch is sticky though you may have to help it get to the center/neutral position. On my 2009, I got fed up with the occasional loss of function and I removed the slotted pieces - just a couple of screws. Now my switches are permanently in the center/neutral position even when the tilt or telescope is at the limit. The mechanical mechanism can't "over travel" and come apart; the switches just protect the motors from trying to run against the travel stops. Since I'm smart enough to not hold the tilt/telescope control knob in any ON position when the steering wheel reaches limits, I'm not worried about frying the motor. I removed those pieces about a year ago... so far no issues.
The TSB replaces the tilt/telescope control module with one that does not look at the limit switches; the wiring to the switches is cut as well though they're left in place doing nothing. I don't know if this new module is smart enough to monitor electrical current to the motors: the current flow will increase dramatically when the tilt or telescope reaches the limits causing the respective motor to stop turning so the module could sense that and know "tilt or telescope is at limit, cut power to the appropriate motor." Or it may be "stupid" and supply electrical power to the motor as long as you hold the control knob... which is basically what happens in my car now.
The power seats have similar travel limit sensing switches which have been known to stick... there are several posts on this website describing this problem. Wiggling those switches generally fixes the seat issue just as it does for the steering wheel issue.
Another tilt/telescope failure mode is to have the range of motion improperly restricted/limited. For example, some folks have found the tilt function goes all the way up but not down far enough. Moving the control knob in the full UP direction and then holding it there for about 30 seconds followed by moving it all the way down and holding it for 30 additional sections, fixes that issue. Same for the telescope function. It's as though the control module thinks the steering wheel tilt or telescope position is "here" when in fact it's "there." So holding the control knob for a long time lets the module eventually learn "gotta be all the way UP by now" to re-sync the module and actual steering tilt/telescope positions.
mike c.