Temp gauge and A/C problem

[Slim19]

Ac jus stopped working blowing cold
2014 Genesis sedan
Tried refilling with r134A when I connected gage went to red indicating issue..
Noticed ac compressor stays on rather ac is on or off..
What can this be??

 

[OlderGuy1stGenesis]

When you say "temp gauge hadn't budged from its resting place" what place is that? Is that at the bottom, top, or in the middle? If it is all the way down, your thermostat is broken. You must get this fixed immediately to prevent engine overheating, because the engine cooling system will not work properly if the system thinks the engine is cool, even though it is actually hot.

You need to have at least 40 percent coolant mixed with distilled water in the cooling system to keep the engine at proper temperature and keep it from over-heating. The temp should be below the half-way spot on the temp gauge.

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Point of clarification. I don't have a schematic but temperature indication on the dash and sensor operation of the electrical fan are probably not the same thing. On most cars one, or occasionally a second sensor operate one or two electric fans independently. In order to give a reading to a dashboard temperature gauge, that indicator has to give a high or low resistance to the temperature gauge passing through the ignition switch to the instrument panel.

 

[Big Ray]

Hi everyone, new member here.
my wife and I have had our 2010 4.6 for about 4 or 5 years now. Today as she was picked our daughter up from school she said the A/C was blowing hot air and the temp gauge hadn't budged from its resting place. When she got home I found that the upper radiator hose had been leaking (there was no longer any coolant in the reservoir) and the smell of coolant was very strong. I filled it with water to see if I could replicate the leak but nothing happened. The temp gauge also stayed down the whole time. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

OMG
same exact thing happened to my Genesis. It happens intermittently, when Gauge goes all the way done, AC blows hot air, and visa versa.
My mechanic says 95% sure it's a sensor

 

[DohctorSmith]

2012 5.0 R-Spec. Same problems as above. No A/C while idling. While driving, even at like 20 MPH at 1,000-1,200RPM I have cold A/C. It’s like if the car is in motion A/C works. While at idle temp gauge will eventually start rising(because fan doesn’t kick on) above normal, just past the half way mark, then it goes too cold. Drive the car while temp gauge is on “cold” and no A/C. Then after a few miles temp gauge goes back to normal and A/C. I’m guessing temp sensor is bad. But the A/C working while moving is puzzling, think these cars have something in the program that will kick A/C compressor on if moving? Used to be that if you turned on the A/C the fan automatically came on. I’m almost sure my fan is not coming on at all. Sorry for being so long!

 

[EdP]

2012 5.0 R-Spec. Same problems as above. No A/C while idling. While driving, even at like 20 MPH at 1,000-1,200RPM I have cold A/C. It’s like if the car is in motion A/C works. While at idle temp gauge will eventually start rising(because fan doesn’t kick on) above normal, just past the half way mark, then it goes too cold. Drive the car while temp gauge is on “cold” and no A/C. Then after a few miles temp gauge goes back to normal and A/C. I’m guessing temp sensor is bad. But the A/C working while moving is puzzling, think these cars have something in the program that will kick A/C compressor on if moving? Used to be that if you turned on the A/C the fan automatically came on. I’m almost sure my fan is not coming on at all. Sorry for being so long!

Moving = higher RPM. Does it come on if you just raise the engine speed to 1000 or so?

 

[joegr]

Moving = higher RPM. Does it come on if you just raise the engine speed to 1000 or so?

Moving also = air flow through the condenser even if the fan isn't working.

 

[EdP]

Moving also = air flow through the condenser even if the fan isn't working.

You need to know both. Would be good to put a set a gauges on it too.

 

[DohctorSmith]

Raising engine RPM doesn’t improve anything. It’s been to the garage and pigtail to engine fan was burnt out getting new fan this week and see what happens. Thanks guys!

 

[PRINCE KEN]

Not sure if you car is set up that way, but with some, if the engine coolant is allowing overheating the AC will not go on so it does not add to the load of the radiator. Now that you added water, the AC may be working again. You may not see the leak until it heats enough to build pressure in the system. This is a good time to replace the hose and fresh coolant. Agree with Mark _888 about the T-stat if the temperature is not coming up. Replace it. If the bttom hose is old, get that too rather than have to blow out in August.

You nailed EdP I had that same issue until I flushed my cooling system and replaced my upper and lower hoses Now AC blows like I reside on the North Pole instead of hot Texas

 

[PRINCE KEN]

My 2013rspec did the exact thing but only 1 time...! I noticed the AC wasn't cold whwn parked, looked at the engine temp and it was low. I turned off the car for a while and then drove off. The gauge went back to normal temp and AC worked fine.
Well just today I noticed the AC is warm again when at idle but the engine temp is normal (right below half).
I pulled over and popped the hood. I could hear the AC compressor kick on and the engine fan was barely moving

Seems I will be replacing that very soon

I think your case sounds normal AC circulation tends to become more functional when the vehicle is in motion or vehicle is warmed up for a while

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[3dwaxmill]

I think your case sounds normal AC circulation tends to become more functional when the vehicle is in motion or vehicle is warmed up for a while

Well I am experiencing the same original post. Everything was fine yesterday morning and early afternoon. 6pm started home it is very humid here in Houston the interior fogged up AC blowing warm, Coolant temp gauge all the way at the bottom. car did not over heat.

checked for codes got a P0119 P0119 is the generic OBD-II code which indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) has detected intermittent ECT sensor input


this morning read this thread. the Coolant was low. filled it up Asian green still the same. Replaced the coolant temp sensor, checked the thermostat in a pot of water, opened right at 185-190 degrees. put it all back together and no change.

Prince Ken Do you have a good mechanic here in Houston ?

 

[3dwaxmill]

I thought I may have either got a bad sensor from Autozone. or i might have damaged it installing. So I got another and the second time installing was much easier. However I tightened the 1st a bit to much which made it difficult to remove. Moral don't tighten the sensor to much.

Still have the same problem!!! NO AC and the temp gauge is at the bottom...

 

[G-646342]

I have a 2011 Hyundai Genesis 4.6 changed the engine coolant sensor thermostat and coolant housing still no read on the temperature gauge any ideas why?

 

[3dwaxmill]

my problem ended up being a wire in the pigtail going to the temperature sensor. It was about a foot away. Could not determine what caused the break

 

[G-460925]

When you say "temp gauge hadn't budged from its resting place" what place is that? Is that at the bottom, top, or in the middle? If it is all the way down, your thermostat is broken. You must get this fixed immediately to prevent engine overheating, because the engine cooling system will not work properly if the system thinks the engine is cool, even though it is actually hot.

You need to have at least 40 percent coolant mixed with distilled water in the cooling system to keep the engine at proper temperature and keep it from over-heating. The temp should be below the half-way spot on the temp gauge.

When i press the brake my oil light appears. When i release the brake the light disappears. Its been making a grinding sound when i press the gas. I added 3 quarts of oil. Drove home and opened the hood and seen a small amount of white smoke. What do i do?

 

[Bj_100z]

Ok got my car back. It is the fan controller. Apparently an important part with a list price of $460. Part # 25385-3M280

Is the Fan controller and the fan module the same ?

 

[BDA]

You need to know both. Would be good to put a set a gauges on it too.

B.A. - New to the group. I am having this EXACT same issue on my 2010 Genesis Sedan 4.6. The AC is blowing hot air, the thermostat is on C until I get it above 1400 RPMs and then the thermostat slowly comes up and I can get cold air.

My car is at the mechanic now but they are saying it's the AC compressor which is weird to me since the AC is running perfectly once the RPMs are up. Any suggested help?

 

[EdP]

B.A. - New to the group. I am having this EXACT same issue on my 2010 Genesis Sedan 4.6. The AC is blowing hot air, the thermostat is on C until I get it above 1400 RPMs and then the thermostat slowly comes up and I can get cold air.

My car is at the mechanic now but they are saying it's the AC compressor which is weird to me since the AC is running perfectly once the RPMs are up. Any suggested help?

Why is that weird? Anything rotational performs differently as the rpm changes.

 

[BDA]

Why is that weird? Anything rotational performs differently as the rpm changes.

Would the AC Compressor effect the thermostat and cause it to stay at C?

 

[BDA]

Could it be a bad temp censor? In this forum, I was reading that the cpu could be shutting off the ac to keep the car from overheating since the cpu does not know the car true engine temperature