Tracking your G70 with JB4

[Mitchman]

For those of you that track with a JB4, do you have the gauges up while you drive to monitor anything specific? And do you ever get concerned while on the track that you could start pulling some serious timing as the car heats up and things could get damaged?

I have a 22 G70 3.3T with JB4, snorkels, HKS plugs gapped to .022, and drop in AEM filters.
I have access to decent 93 and been running map 2 lately. I review my logs regularly and do random pulls that JB4 recommends to see what timing is being pulled. On all my pulls I have at least 2-3 cylinders pulling timing between .8 and 3. Pretty much every time. Burger Motorsports say anything under 3.5 is technically acceptable and not to tune to 0 timing adjustments as it could leave power on the table.. But my concern is with tracking the car. I tracked the car last year before I did any mods, and was able to get on the track 5 times in 1 day doing 20 minute sessions. Car did amazing, kept cool, brakes held up. I'm wanting to track the car again this year, but with the JB4. My concern is if I'm pulling timing like this just driving spiritly around town, what happens when I'm pretty much full on or off the throttle for 20 minutes straight?

Just wondering what ya'll are doing, makes me contemplate doing a tuned ECU now as I want to enjoy more power, but not be so concerned my cars going to damage itself. Especially since I plan on doing 5-6 tracked events this year.

 

[Nameneeded]

You can try adding some octane boost on track days? Give it a bit more overhead protection?

Just use a reputable brand. Lots of scams out there.

Royal Purple, Torco and Boostane, all use MMT so I'd look for those.

Just rember that the point system they use is by a factor of 10. So if it says it will raise octane level by 10 that means it will make 91 a 92 equivilant not 101.

 

[Volfy]

On the track, I'm so busy with driving and watching the corner workers, I don't ever look at my instrument cluster, much less my phone. That is the only time I appreciate an exhaust that I can hear well enough to gauge my engine RPM, without having to glance at the tach.

Are you competing in time trials? Track days for me is about honing skills and, most of all, having fun. I really couldn't care less if my lap times are 10 or 15sec slower than that SS 1LE that blew past me on lap 3. I run Map 1 on 93AKI, primarily to help the turbo spool up faster and to reduce lag, so I can accelerate out of corners smoother. Probably could run Map2 just fine, but I'm there to push me to my limits, not to push my engine to its limits. I prefer to leave enough headroom, so I don't have to worry about the ECU retarding timing excessively. As for the rest of the car, you kinda have to trust your own track prep. Fresh 5w40 synthetic oil oil just for the event (and change back to 5w30 afterward). Fresh high temp DOT4 brake fluid, appropriate (and well bedded) track brake pads, etc., etc. Running 20min flat out sessions is tough on the car.

Not sure if mine is the kind the answer you're looking for, but that's my perspective anyway.

 

[Cashby]

Your timing looks fine. For actual track (not 1/4 mile) I would just keep an eye on trans temps, water temp, boost and timing. Also, when doing track, your IAT's are going to go up which will in return probably give you some timing corrections as IAT's go up. That is normal. Anything under 3 degrees of timing correction is normal.

You can throw 4 gallons of E85 in to help boost the octane. Other than that, a proper intercooler will help as well.

 

[slimjim2525]

I track my G70 frequently, but on map0. IMO, the heat build up in the turbo during tracking has to pretty high, so I don't add boost. I use map 2 for every day use.

 

[Mitchman]

Thanks for the responses. I actually agree with all your responses haha. I'm probably better off focusing on my race line and maybe doing the small upgrades like some suspension mods, better brakes, tires etc and seeing how my times get better with those than simply just adding power!

 

[GSINGH]

On the track, I'm so busy with driving and watching the corner workers, I don't ever look at my instrument cluster, much less my phone. That is the only time I appreciate an exhaust that I can hear well enough to gauge my engine RPM, without having to glance at the tach.

Are you competing in time trials? Track days for me is about honing skills and, most of all, having fun. I really couldn't care less if my lap times are 10 or 15sec slower than that SS 1LE that blew past me on lap 3. I run Map 1 on 93AKI, primarily to help the turbo spool up faster and to reduce lag, so I can accelerate out of corners smoother. Probably could run Map2 just fine, but I'm there to push me to my limits, not to push my engine to its limits. I prefer to leave enough headroom, so I don't have to worry about the ECU retarding timing excessively. As for the rest of the car, you kinda have to trust your own track prep. Fresh 5w40 synthetic oil oil just for the event (and change back to 5w30 afterward). Fresh high temp DOT4 brake fluid, appropriate (and well bedded) track brake pads, etc., etc. Running 20min flat out sessions is tough on the car.

Not sure if mine is the kind the answer you're looking for, but that's my perspective anyway.

Hi Volfy, I am starting to track my g70 ( 3.3t AWD ) now and will be doing the maintenance myself going forward. I was wondering if you help me with what high temp. brake fluid can I run , what brake pads are good on track and any other stuff to keep in mind other than basis engine oil , brakes and pads? Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[Volfy]

Hi Volfy, I am starting to track my g70 ( 3.3t AWD ) now and will be doing the maintenance myself going forward. I was wondering if you help me with what high temp. brake fluid can I run , what brake pads are good on track and any other stuff to keep in mind other than basis engine oil , brakes and pads? Any advice would be much appreciated.

With brake fluid, freshness is far more important than what the advertised Dry Boiling Point of the brake fluid is. Even standard DOT fluid is good for 230C(446F) when fresh. Over time, DOT4 will attract moisture from the air and start shifting towards the Wet Boiling Point: 155C (311F). You can buy "racing high temp" DOT4 that supposedly has higher Dry Boiling Point. The downside is that racing brake fluids degrade faster than standar DOT, which means they shift towards WBP at an accelerated rate. You would have to change your brake fluid more often, like perhaps twice per racing season. If you start to get serious with racing action and start progressing into the upper classes at track event, that compromise might indeed be necessary, when you push your car to its max. Just starting out, it is probably not required.

On our Stinger/G70, I chose the middle ground. Quicksilver DOT4 521F dry, 326F wet, and change once a year, during off season.

Engine Oil is a religion, and I definitely don't want to preach any particular gospel. I'll tell you what I use and why... and leave it at that. The "standard" 0w30 was officially designated because the DOT fuel economy test cycle uses whatever the mfr specifies, so it behooves the mfr to spec the most fuel efficient oil that works for 95% of the everyday drivers on the road. However, if you track your car, you belong in the other 5%. At sustained track paces, the engine is hammered hard, and oil temp will rise. As engine oil temp gradually rises, the oil viscosity will fall. That means oil will thin out and oil pressure will drop, potentially reducing the thin-film lubrication that your engine relies on... just when it is needed most.

Because I live in a moderate climate, with mild Winter and brutally hot Summer, I run 5w30 for off-season street driving. I do switch to either 5W40 or even 15w50, depending on the scheduled events I plan to run that season. For full-day Time Trials, with upwards of 4-5 session of 20-min balls to the wall, I run 15w50, especially if it's in the Summer heat. For AutoX and shorter duration Track Sprints, 5w40 is plenty. The point is to make sure you run an oil that resist thinning at higher oil temp. 5w30 and 5w40 use the same base oil, so their VI (viscosity index) at lower temps are exactly the same. 5w40 has more long-chain polymers added to resist high-temp VI-reduction, so it thins like a straight 40 VI oil, whereas 5w30 thins like a straight 30 VI oil. However, the downside is that with proportionally more polymers added, there is less base oil by %. The long chains of the polymers do wear out over use, so you'd have to change 5w40 more often, especially with track events.

15w50 starts with 15 VI base oil and even more polymers added to thin down like a 50 VI oil. To me, there is no problem with running it, as long as temp does not get anywhere close to 0C. In fact, Stinger's oil spec table lists 15w40 and even 20w50 as appropriate for use down lower temps than I feel comfortable running with it. The only downside is the slight reduction in fuel economy, and I do mean slight reduction.

Brakes and brake pads I've talked about extensively in other threads specific to that topic, so won't elaborate here, other than to say... make sure you pick a pad compound that the mfr recommends for your intended usage case, and follow the mfr's seating and bedding-in procedures verbatim.

 

[GSINGH]

With brake fluid, freshness is far more important than what the advertised Dry Boiling Point of the brake fluid is. Even standard DOT fluid is good for 230C(446F) when fresh. Over time, DOT4 will attract moisture from the air and start shifting towards the Wet Boiling Point: 155C (311F). You can buy "racing high temp" DOT4 that supposedly has higher Dry Boiling Point. The downside is that racing brake fluids degrade faster than standar DOT, which means they shift towards WBP at an accelerated rate. You would have to change your brake fluid more often, like perhaps twice per racing season. If you start to get serious with racing action and start progressing into the upper classes at track event, that compromise might indeed be necessary, when you push your car to its max. Just starting out, it is probably not required.

On our Stinger/G70, I chose the middle ground. Quicksilver DOT4 521F dry, 326F wet, and change once a year, during off season.

Engine Oil is a religion, and I definitely don't want to preach any particular gospel. I'll tell you what I use and why... and leave it at that. The "standard" 0w30 was officially designated because the DOT fuel economy test cycle uses whatever the mfr specifies, so it behooves the mfr to spec the most fuel efficient oil that works for 95% of the everyday drivers on the road. However, if you track your car, you belong in the other 5%. At sustained track paces, the engine is hammered hard, and oil temp will rise. As engine oil temp gradually rises, the oil viscosity will fall. That means oil will thin out and oil pressure will drop, potentially reducing the thin-film lubrication that your engine relies on... just when it is needed most.

Because I live in a moderate climate, with mild Winter and brutally hot Summer, I run 5w30 for off-season street driving. I do switch to either 5W40 or even 15w50, depending on the scheduled events I plan to run that season. For full-day Time Trials, with upwards of 4-5 session of 20-min balls to the wall, I run 15w50, especially if it's in the Summer heat. For AutoX and shorter duration Track Sprints, 5w40 is plenty. The point is to make sure you run an oil that resist thinning at higher oil temp. 5w30 and 5w40 use the same base oil, so their VI (viscosity index) at lower temps are exactly the same. 5w40 has more long-chain polymers added to resist high-temp VI-reduction, so it thins like a straight 40 VI oil, whereas 5w30 thins like a straight 30 VI oil. However, the downside is that with proportionally more polymers added, there is less base oil by %. The long chains of the polymers do wear out over use, so you'd have to change 5w40 more often, especially with track events.

15w50 starts with 15 VI base oil and even more polymers added to thin down like a 50 VI oil. To me, there is no problem with running it, as long as temp does not get anywhere close to 0C. In fact, Stinger's oil spec table lists 15w40 and even 20w50 as appropriate for use down lower temps than I feel comfortable running with it. The only downside is the slight reduction in fuel economy, and I do mean slight reduction.

Brakes and brake pads I've talked about extensively in other threads specific to that topic, so won't elaborate here, other than to say... make sure you pick a pad compound that the mfr recommends for your intended usage case, and follow the mfr's seating and bedding-in procedures verbatim.

That's some god level knowledge to me . Really appreciate you helping out so extensively. Will make sure to read about those brake pad thread. Don't mind me if ask you more questions . So, my apologies in advance for that .

 

[Volfy]

That's some god level knowledge to me . Really appreciate you helping out so extensively. Will make sure to read about those brake pad thread. Don't mind me if ask you more questions . So, my apologies in advance for that .

No worries. I don't claim to know it all. Just sharing what I do know well enough to be of some help to others.

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[Volfy]

Here are a couple of threads on track brake prep.

G70 aftermarket brake pads

Yeah it’s definitely for the looks. I drive slow mostly and not that far. It’s a looks thing. I just don’t want the shaky braky 😂 With all I’ve read I’m scared to buy anything. I don’t mind waiting I’m good right now for wear. I heard a few squeaks last week and made me consider preparing in...

genesisowners.com

Best brake pads for the track?

2022 G70 3.6 Sport Prestige with Brembo brakes. 8000 street/highway miles on the car. After just 65 miles of HPDE, all 4 pads were gone, down to metal, had to limp to a dealer. If anyone has experience driving this model on a track, and has found brake pads that can withstand this, please let me...

genesisowners.com