Trunk Surround Liner Removal

[genesis@genesisworld.com]

I'm trying to get to the remote Amp that is on the driver's side of the trunk.

The shop manual says that you need to start by removing the back seat bottom and back cushions then go from there. There's GOT to be a more simple way to get to the amp.

Why? I want to punch up the sub woofer just a little. All needed connections and power are available at the amp to add an inline sub amp.

 

[genesis@genesisworld.com]

.....and to answer my own question.......

Yes.

To get to the amp, you can pop a few of the pop plastic push pins, remove 2 Phillips screws and 2 11mm bolts. The shroud will move out of the way far enough to access all of the wiring harness.

I added a sub amp in line and it works very nicely enhancing the 30-150 hz area to round out the bottom end.

 

[Genpire]

I'd like to know exactly what you did, because I added an amp an sub this weekend and it sounded like total crap. I have had this same sub and amp configuration in the last 4 cars I have owned. installed them all the same way and they all sounded great. I tied into the sub signal from the factory amp and sent those speaker wires to my aftermarket sub amp....which in turn feeds my aftermarket single 10" sub.

all I did was rattle the trunk....and you couldn't hear anything different in the cabin of the car. it actually sounded better without it hooked up. open the trunk and it sounded fine also. only thing I can think of is that the trunk is so air tight the sub doesn't have enough power to push the air pressure out.

I used the blue with red stripe wire for negative and the solid red wire for positive. then just wired the amp as normal....plus/neg/switch.

nothing any different then on my hummer...Honda.....bmw....kia.....

I really wish there was more low end on the 17 speaker lexicon. so did you just ad an amp inline to power the lexicon speaker???

i'm confused as to what exactly you did.

I have a 2015 V8 w/ ulitmate

 

[genesis@genesisworld.com]

I should have taken pics, but it went so fast and smooth....



I have the Ultimate and this is the wiring diagram for my Lexicon. I had to sever the lines from the amp to the sub and insert the amp in-line. You can see the wire colors on the schematic. The power was in plug 'B' and the speakers are all on plug 'A'. A is the farthest to the right (or down as the amp is mounted). I used simple Post-Tap wire taps for the power and the control.

The amp I chose is a Kenwood KAC-9106D - [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQ1VJFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Amazon.com : Kenwood KAC-9106D 2000 Watts Peak/1000 Watts RMS Mono Block Class D Car Amplifier With Speaker Level Inputs : Car Electronics[/ame]

I won't use NEAR the power it can deliver. I just augmented the bottom end enough to my taste.

It all tucked in neatly under the trunk floor cover. My feeling is that heat will never be an issue since I'm running it so low. I may try to post a pic of the mounting and IF I need to get to the wiring again, I'll take some pics and post.

 

[Genpire]

I did everything you did, but I used the blue with red stripe for negative and the solid red for positive. seemed to give me a signal. looks like it was grey with black stripe for positive.

on my ohm meter with signal tone....it would only send a signal on the grey/black and the blue/red. which I thought was weird...so then I thought maybe it is dual voice coil.

if you look at the bottom of the free air lexicon sub...you will see two spots where there is bare metal to hold your meter against on the left side of the sub. if I put one meter probe on one of the metal tabs on the sub and then shove the other into the connector blue/red wire or grey/black wire I got a tone signal. it didn't matter which one I put it on. so I assumed the negative was on the bottom of the sub and the positive cable was on top where I couldn't get to because they mounted the damn thing from the top inside the car.

every other car I have owned I just tap the pos and neg signal for the sub from the factory amp....leaving the factory sub working. then I run those wires to the speaker level input of my kenwood 250watt amp in mono mode with lpf on. wire power as normal and bridge the amp to the 10" sub speaker.

but for some reason on the genesis it sounds like crap and makes no real difference in the cab of the car, but it rattles the trunk on the outside. i'm still gonna say the sub doesn't have enough power to push the pressure in the trunk because it is sealed so well.

if I open the pass-through in the back seat to the trunk....I can then hear the 10" sub in the cab, but its still no where near as nice as the previous cars.

250watts on a single 10" sub has always been more then plenty to add lots of low end. i'm not trying to let the whole town hear it like some people do.

i'm not sure, like you, if I care to remove all that trunk shrouding to get to the amp again just to see if using the grey/black wire as positive helps or not. i'm gonna have to say not....since my sub was hitting pretty hard with the trunk open.

 

[quanva]

FunnyI came across this as I just dropped my car @ an audio shop to have the (bass issue) fixed..

Since i have no use for the pass through they are going to fab up a ported box in that area, remove the factory sub and use that opening to "vent" the sub sound into the cabin the same way the factory sub does...going to be using a small kenwood amp that will be hidden..speaker box will be the same color as the truck carpet...they also got some device brought in that will interface with the deck so so i raise the volume, the bass adjust to match

I wondered if the 17 system has better bass..just my question has been answered

I'll post some pics when i get the car back

 

[genesis@genesisworld.com]

FunnyI came across this as I just dropped my car @ an audio shop to have the (bass issue) fixed..

Since i have no use for the pass through they are going to fab up a ported box in that area, remove the factory sub and use that opening to "vent" the sub sound into the cabin the same way the factory sub does...going to be using a small kenwood amp that will be hidden..speaker box will be the same color as the truck carpet...they also got some device brought in that will interface with the deck so so i raise the volume, the bass adjust to match

I wondered if the 17 system has better bass..just my question has been answered

I'll post some pics when i get the car back

That should work nicely and is a novel idea. I occasionally need the pass through for carrying long items so I'll call that not an option for me.

I used to be VERY picky about audio but as I've aged I've loosened up. In general I'd say my 2009 sounded much better than my 2015. Adding the amp in-line with the existing sub speaker has greatly improved the overall feel of the sound. Like others, I'm not looking for an ear splitting thump. I just like a smooth rounded out bottom end in the <200hz area.

BTW- there are a few apps for the iPhone that can give you great feq sweeps, pink noise, etc. so you can tweak a system's performance.

 

[ksoze]

I used to be VERY picky about audio but as I've aged I've loosened up. In general I'd say my 2009 sounded much better than my 2015.

I am surprised to hear that the 2009 sounded better than the 2015. Are we talking the 2015 17-speaker Ultimate system with 900 watts?

 

[Mark_888]

I am surprised to hear that the 2009 sounded better than the 2015. Are we talking the 2015 17-speaker Ultimate system with 900 watts?

His sig says he has 2015 Ultimate, so 17-speakers.

 

[genesis@genesisworld.com]

I am surprised to hear that the 2009 sounded better than the 2015. Are we talking the 2015 17-speaker Ultimate system with 900 watts?

Yup. To be clear, it isn't BAD, it's just not as crisp and awesome. Not really sure why. I'm digging out a 7.1 test DVD this week to see if I can make sure all the bits are working correctly.

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