Replacement Rotors & Brakes

[gameday22]

Has anyone replaced their rotors / brakes with something a bit more upgraded? I'm looking at some dimpled & slotted rotors and the Hawk HPS brake pads. Any suggestions to other rotor/brake choices that would improve the overall braking performance of our sedan beyond spending a ton of $$ on Brembo?

 

[homeofstone]

I have a 4.6 that has the 4 piston calipers which the v6 does not. Also have over 71,000 miles on the 2011 Genesis and front brakes are only about 50% worn. Maybe the 4.6 rotors and calipers will work on the v6.

 

[scottdk]

Has anyone replaced their rotors / brakes with something a bit more upgraded? I'm looking at some dimpled & slotted rotors and the Hawk HPS brake pads. Any suggestions to other rotor/brake choices that would improve the overall braking performance of our sedan beyond spending a ton of $$ on Brembo?

Yes i've replaced the front rotors only. I have a thread on that - R1concepts.com drilled and slotted rotors.

I just did rotors and pads on all four brakes of my Sonata, and I don't think I'd buy the Hawk pads again. They leave a crap load of brake dust, which the factory pads did not. I'd consider the RED EBC brake pads, but I have heard they leave a lot of dust also.

 

[Driv200]

Re: Replacement Rotors & Brakes - PIC

Here is my recent upgraded 13.6" Rspec EBC Rotor Sport dimpled and slotted. The sport cost about $400. Many others cost about $150, but do not exceed OEM performance specs.

I upgraded to stainless steel brake lines.
I upgraded to EBC Yellow Stuff pads.
I upgraded to Super Blue brake fluid.

Stock calipers.

 

[brfatal]

I highly suggest staying away from drilled/slotted rotors and HPS pads.

-The compound Hawk uses for their HPS pads is terrible and really not suited for stopping a car over 3,000 lbs, much less a heavy Genesis. In my Subaru, for instance, the stock OEM pads resisted heat better and bit harder.

-Drilled rotors have high likelihood of cracking. The only rotors with holes that have any consistency are ones where the holes are cast into the rotor.

-Dimpled and slotted rotors eat pads and most shops will refuse to resurface them if they warp or have build up because it will damage their cutting bits. Just like drilled holes, it's an aesthetic thing that has no performance benefits at all.

I DO recommend good brake fluid though. This will make a huge difference in the case of repeated hard braking.

 

[Driv200]

I think there are benefits with slotted & drilled rotors. No question really. As for pads, I am not familiar with the pads you mentioned, but thanks for sharing your experience. You might try matching up same brand rotor with same brand of pad like I did for maximized performance. For aggressive braking during a track day or autocross, a stock pad melts and loses performance after one hard stop. Upgrading pads and rotors helps sustain repeat performance at higher temps. Using the right pads and rotors in the right situations is also part of the success. Race pads and rotors for normal street use is a disaster as they won't get enough heat in them to work properly.

My set up will offer benefits over stock as big as night & day! But I am curious how long they will last slowing down a 4000 pound sedan.

Stay tuned.......

 

[GonDeep11]

I highly suggest staying away from drilled/slotted rotors and HPS pads.

-The compound Hawk uses for their HPS pads is terrible and really not suited for stopping a car over 3,000 lbs, much less a heavy Genesis. In my Subaru, for instance, the stock OEM pads resisted heat better and bit harder.

-Drilled rotors have high likelihood of cracking. The only rotors with holes that have any consistency are ones where the holes are cast into the rotor.

-Dimpled and slotted rotors eat pads and most shops will refuse to resurface them if they warp or have build up because it will damage their cutting bits. Just like drilled holes, it's an aesthetic thing that has no performance benefits at all.

I DO recommend good brake fluid though. This will make a huge difference in the case of repeated hard braking.

Where do you get your information? You obviously are talking from your rear end with your comments... Do some research before you post useless information and opinions. Drilled holes are an aesthetic thing? Really dude? Cast rotors?? What planet are you from and what kind or crack are you smoking? Geez my first post here and it has to be this... And if you are going to ask what my qualifications are, I'm an automotive process engineer for General Motors Performance division.

 

[ghicks99]

Re: Replacement Rotors & Brakes - PIC

Here is my recent upgraded 13.6" Rspec EBC Rotor Sport dimpled and slotted. The sport cost about $400. Many others cost about $150, but do not exceed OEM performance specs.

I upgraded to stainless steel brake lines.
I upgraded to EBC Yellow Stuff pads.
I upgraded to Super Blue brake fluid.

Stock calipers.

Im looking to go to super blue fluid as well. My only question is will it have any effect on our hecu since they have had issues with fluid or is super blue a DOT4? Thanks

 

[brfatal]

Where do you get your information? You obviously are talking from your rear end with your comments... Do some research before you post useless information and opinions. Drilled holes are an aesthetic thing? Really dude? Cast rotors?? What planet are you from and what kind or crack are you smoking? Geez my first post here and it has to be this... And if you are going to ask what my qualifications are, I'm an automotive process engineer for General Motors Performance division.

New at your job and automotive, well, anything when you posted this? Hopefully by now you've picked up a bit from your coworkers. Yes, it might surprise you to learn that rotors are made of cast iron. Not forged unobtanium. And yes, on a street driven 3.8L car dimples, slots, and drilled holes have absolutely no performance benefit at all unless you include the weight lost from his wallet by spending his money on them rather thank standard blank rotors. I chose the point blank wording as applicable to him rather than pointing out the differences between brakes on a LeMons car versus what he has. On street cars holes do nothing except increase the likelihood of cracking the rotor and make it harder to find a shop that will turn your rotor since most shops like to throw hissy fits about broken lathe bits.

 

[brfatal]

Re: Replacement Rotors & Brakes - PIC

Im looking to go to super blue fluid as well. My only question is will it have any effect on our hecu since they have had issues with fluid or is super blue a DOT4? Thanks

ATE Super Blue is now illegal to sell in the US after the US DOT made the moronic decision to ban dyed brake fluid that was anything other than amber. ATE 200 is the same fluid, just the legal color.

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[Mark_888]

Re: Replacement Rotors & Brakes - PIC

Im looking to go to super blue fluid as well. My only question is will it have any effect on our hecu since they have had issues with fluid or is super blue a DOT4? Thanks

Continental Super Blue is DOT4 and has no advantage than any other decent quality DOT4. The reason it is blue is to make it easier to make sure brakes are bled completely (assuming you don't currently have Super Blue in your car).

However, Continental Super Blue is illegal in the US due to its color and is being withdrawn from marketing:
http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/braking-news-ate-super-blue-deemed-illegal-for-us-distribution/

 

[scottdk]

In regards to drilled or slotted rotors - I have never needed to have the rotors turned...ever. No matter the vehicle I've had them on. In my world, these type of rotors are not actually supposed to be turned anyway.

 

[Flgatorfan]

So all Porche road cars have drilled or slotted rotors for looks only? I am surprised.

 

[EXBMWGUY]

S-Class, Porsche, Ferrari, and more have OEM drilled and/or slotted rotors.

 

[brfatal]

So all Porche road cars have drilled or slotted rotors for looks only? I am surprised.

S-Class, Porsche, Ferrari, and more have OEM drilled and/or slotted rotors.

Both points already addressed. Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Porsche etc are all intended for some level (light use, not exactly race car) of competitive track driving. And those OEM rotors are not drilled, they are cast with the holes in them and this greatly reduced the problems caused by drilling rotors. You're kidding yourself if you think there is an ounce of benefit to be had from drilled or slotted rotors on a Genesis sedan.

I chose the point blank wording as applicable to him rather than pointing out the differences between brakes on a LeMons car versus what he has.

-Drilled rotors have high likelihood of cracking. The only rotors with holes that have any consistency are ones where the holes are cast into the rotor.

 

[Flgatorfan]

So there are no cast rotors to be found for a Genesis - - all are drilled after the fact? Mountain driving can get them pretty hot too - - that much different from track needs?

 

[brfatal]

So there are no cast rotors to be found for a Genesis - - all are drilled after the fact? Mountain driving can get them pretty hot too - - that much different from track needs?

Not needed at all. I've driven HDPE and time attack no problem at all with blank rotors. Both are more abusive than any mountain driving you're going to do in a Gennie.

 

[ghicks99]

Re: Replacement Rotors & Brakes - PIC

Continental Super Blue is DOT4 and has no advantage than any other decent quality DOT4. The reason it is blue is to make it easier to make sure brakes are bled completely (assuming you don't currently have Super Blue in your car).

However, Continental Super Blue is illegal in the US due to its color and is being withdrawn from marketing:
http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/braking-news-ate-super-blue-deemed-illegal-for-us-distribution/

Well i dont care about legalities, its still easily obtainable online and through local speed shops. Ive used motul in the past but to say ate is no different than anything else is like saying mobil 1 is the same as conventional oil. Theres decent quality and then there are the likes of ate, endless rf650, motul, and then castrol srf on the extreme high end side. Living in Fl and having a heavy car, having a fluid with a high wet and dry boiling point and low moisture building is more than welcome. Good fluid combined with SS lines and better pads is a night and day difference

 

[brfatal]

Motul RBF600 actually absorbs more moisture than most other comparable brake fluids. It has a higher boiling point than ATE for example, it just needs to be swapped out sooner.

Most factory brake setups are intended to be able to handle 1 to 2 high speed emergency stops. Most people really shouldn't need any special fluid for a Genesis since most people aren't hitting 100, slamming on the brakes till you stop and then immediately repeating over and over, nor is this really a tracked car. It's not particularly a 'hooned' car. I agree that cars that are would greatly benefit from good fluid and stainless steel lines.

 

[ghicks99]

S-Class, Porsche, Ferrari, and more have OEM drilled and/or slotted rotors.

True statement. Although i cant even remember the last time i had rotors resurfaced. For the price its much easier to buy new rotors and pads. Also slotted or cross drilled rotors can be resurfaced. Just have to make smaller cuts on the lathe and take your time compared to a blank rotor