Another dead V8

[homeofstone]

What the heck is "Trip interruption?"

From Hyundai Website:

TRIP INTERRUPTION ASSISTANCE
In the event a warrantable mechanical disablement occurs more than 150 miles away from home and your car is disabled overnight due to a repair in process, Hyundai Roadside Assistance will reimburse you for reasonable expenses such as meals, lodging and transportation.

See quick guide for details.

When you call 1-800-243-7766 for Roadside Assistance, please provide the following:

• Your Name
• Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) - located on the driver's side dashboard
• Vehicle Mileage
• Vehicle Location
• Description of Your Vehicle's Problem

 

[tonygxp]

I bought it used with 12K on it (it was an Avis car). The towing distance was 75 miles @3.75/mile plus hookup fee, and on a Sunday nowhere near a major city I was in no position to haggle. (At least my insurance will cover $100, and AAA will cover the hookup fee plus 5 miles of it). As for roadside assistance, Hyundai simply said they didn't cover towing. Update--the engine arrived yesterday, and the techs are preparing to put it in. Needless to say, this isn't routine for them. Meanwhile, I'm enjoing my 2011 Genny V8 loaner, which has more bells & whistles than my 2010 V8 which didn't have the tech package. It is a better car, although as someone else noted, not thousands of dollars better. After all, I paid less than $30K for my 2010, and the 2011 goes for, what, 44?

i wouldn't buy a rental car if it were half off. i use rentals at my job and i must say they get beat like a red headed step child. as for pricing on a new one there's a thread for that but it appears at least now, you can get an '11 V8 for around $36,xxx after rebates (plus tax, etc.) that's with an almost $44k msrp.

what did they say about the new engine? is it new like off the line shipped over new? or remanufactured new? in the end you are making out because i would bet the rental car engine was beat the heck out of lol.

 

[homeofstone]

When at the dealer for the new engine have them check everything on the car like hoses, belts, brakes, etc. After all is said and done you may come out with a much better car because of this incident. And during the repair enjoy driving the 2011 V8.

 

[DRF]

just got my first check engine code (P0116) for 4.6 tau '09 Genesis. I've noticed the temp gauge at "C" intermittently for the past week or so. Sometimes the temp gauge would be fine and then it would go to "C". Other times, it would stay on "C" after the car was running a while. And sometimes, in this latter case, the temp would go from "C" to normal. In all these cases, the air conditioning (normally on "auto") would stop cooling. Might it be as simple as the temp sensor? Is it usually intermittent like this before it goes out? What is the suggested way to get it safely to the dealership for repair?

 

[mikec]

P0116 is a "Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance" error - i.e. the engine computer is getting a value from the sensor outside rational values and/or the value didn't change in sync with other sensors & other logic.

The sensor is just a thermister - a resistor that varies its value in sync with temperature. And it's not uncommon for them to go bad though usually they last many years. I wouldn't be surprised if the electrical connector is loose on your car. Look on the front of the engine, at the serpentine belt. Find the belt's tensioner wheel - the smooth one that mounts to a spring loaded arm. The sensor is right above the idler wheel based on the diagram I'm looking at.

Also, with the engine warmed up a little, have a helper watch the dash temp gauge while you wiggle the sensor and connector - if the gauge changes at all, this is your bug.

Potential "problems" if you keep driving: since your dash temp gauge is indicating a stone-cold engine, odds are the sensor is "open" and/or the electrical connection isn't good. The ECU will run the engine in a "warm up" mode which hurts MPG a little bit but otherwise won't harm the engine. My only concern: I don't know what triggers the radiator cooling fan to run. Some vehicles use the engine computer to run the fan... if the ECU thinks the engine is stone-cold the fan won't run! I don't know if the Genesis has a separate control circuit for the fan or not; my manuals don't have the details of the motor control circuit.

A Hyundai service rep told me the car is safe to drive with the check engine light ON as long as the light isn't blinking.

mike c.

 

[jokearns]

I haven't even had my 2010 Genesis V8 for 3 months, and it died halfway home home to Mom for Mother's Day. The cause is undiagnosed, but when I heard bad knocking and lost power, I pulled over quick on the freeway. I saw some coolant under the car after stopping, and saw smoke coming out of the tailpipes with a coolant smell. After giving it a truck ride back 75 miles to a dealer (cost: $275), they found the engine temp had reached 240 degrees, and there was no coolant at all left in the system. No compression in any cylinders. Looks like Hyundai is going to have to cough up an engine. By the way, not a single dash warning light came on until I had pulled over and stopped, and the temp guage was on C!!! Is C Korean for really, really hot?

The betting pool is now open as to the initial cause of the problem, and if the dealer figures it out, I'll post.

Interesting, I purchased 2011 Genesis and less than 25K had to have engine replaced, same as you indicated above, no warning light, kept car for two weeks, stated they had no history of these types of incidents, and only a month later, plethora of other issues developing

 

[mikec]

One issue with many dash gauges and warning lights is just what do they really tell you. The water temperature gauge is a particularly misleading indicator. It just displays the temperature of the engine coolant flowing past a sensor. If there is NO coolant, or if the water pump is totally dead so the coolant isn't circulating, the sensor stays pretty cold and the dash gauge will read "C" while the engine cooks.

Other dash gauges and warning lights have similar issues. They can only tell you SOME of the potential problems of whatever system they monitor; rarely will they warn you of EVERY potential issue.

My advice: when you get a new car, pay attention to the gauges:
a) what do they read as "normal" for warmed-up, etc. This is all most people ever do.

b) how long does the engine have to be running, or how many miles, before the gauges begin to move and before they reach their "normal" values. Consider the temperature gauge again: it takes a mile or two of driving to start moving off the "C" typically... and 5 to 10 minutes of driving to reach normal temps on my car depending on how many traffic lights I get stuck at. If I don't see it budge off the "C" within 3 or 4 minutes I'd suspect "no coolant" or "busted water pump" or "busted drive belt" and would pull over and pop the hood. The engine will survive just fine without coolant for a couple minutes of driving... but not 10 or 20+ minutes. Get in the habit of checking/monitoring the gauges 1 and 2 miles from your home and workplace - at a particular intersection or some other easily referenced point.

mike c.

 

[EXBMWGUY]

One of the things I really miss is the oil temperature gauge I had on my BMW. Few other cars have it, but to MikeC's point, a temp gauge has serious limitations. So the Genny is compromised as it is, but not nearly as compromised in this area as our Volvo which has no gauge!

 

[AgentSmith007]

One of the things I really miss is the oil temperature gauge I had on my BMW. Few other cars have it, but to MikeC's point, a temp gauge has serious limitations. So the Genny is compromised as it is, but not nearly as compromised in this area as our Volvo which has no gauge!

You can buy Ultra Gauge and can get much more than just oil temp gauge.
http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm

 

[EXBMWGUY]

You can buy Ultra Gauge and can get much more than just oil temp gauge.
http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm

Very interesting. Thank you. Batting 1000 -- neither of our cars are listed on their compatibility chart. The only Genesis listed is 09 3.8L. No Volvo models for 2012. I'll have to contact them directly.

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[AgentSmith007]

There is also ScanGauge II Ultra, but it is more expensive.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-Automotive-Computer-Customizable-Real-Time/dp/B000AAMY86/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360683973&sr=8-1&keywords=scangauge"]ScanGauge II Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

 

[scottdk]

Very interesting. Thank you. Batting 1000 -- neither of our cars are listed on their compatibility chart. The only Genesis listed is 09 3.8L. No Volvo models for 2012. I'll have to contact them directly.

You could try a ScanGauge II. This is what I use and is compatible with the Genesis no matter the engine. Only display that won't work on the Genesis is fuel pressure. About 10% of vehicles provide Fuel Pressure (FPR).

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-Automotive-Computer-Customizable-Real-Time/dp/B000AAMY86/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1360684514&sr=1-1&keywords=scangauge"]ScanGauge II Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

Also checks for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), clears the codes, and can turn off the "Check Engine" light .

 

[EXBMWGUY]

You could try a ScanGauge II. This is what I use and is compatible with the Genesis no matter the engine. Only display that won't work on the Genesis is fuel pressure. About 10% of vehicles provide Fuel Pressure (FPR).

ScanGauge II Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges : Amazon.com : Automotive

Also checks for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), clears the codes, and can turn off the "Check Engine" light .

Cool! Thank you. Only problem I see is it records speeds up to 158 mph to monitor the behavior of "young drivers!" I better make sure my wife doesn't learn how to read this thing!

 

[scottdk]

Cool! Thank you. Only problem I see is it records speeds up to 158 mph to monitor the behavior of "young drivers!" I better make sure my wife doesn't learn how to read this thing!

Just went to Garrison for the Vikings Artic blast over the weekend and the recorded top speed was 122 mph in my Sonata. The way home Sunday was opposite with the snow storm, but good thing for the General Altimax Artics Coolant temp was reading 206 on the way home due to the snow in front of the radiator. Normal coolant temp of my Sonata is around 180.

 

[bruceb]

I use a ScanGauge II on my 09 3.8, since I bought it for my prior truck. I monitor the water temp, but the oil temp does not register. Tried HP too, but when it runs up to about 150 or 200, it goes to 0 and stays there for a while.