ULTIMATE Hyundai Genesis Detailing Thread

[GenesisDan]

Hey guys,
Lets make a detailing thread covering everything in a centralized location.

Pre Wash

Wash

Drying

Pre Wax

Wax

Tire & Wheel Care

Glass Finish

Interior Detailing

Leather Care

For each section we can suggest techniques and equipment and I'll keep the thread updated.
As I am not a detailing expert I really don't do much but wet the car, wash the car and dry the car. However I want to start taking care of my Black Genesis Sedan that I just purchased and would like to start applying wax and doing detail work before its too late.


So please, feel free to suggest techniques, ask questions, and so on.
Provide details such as what towels you use for drying, detailing before wax, wax application, etc. Best soaps, best wax, best wax applicators, etc.

You get the idea.

 

[Top Gear]

Good idea, here are my basic supplies:

• Bucket and microfiber mit
• ArmourAll Wash & Wax (got two jugs on sale)
• Meguiar's Scratch Remover
• Meguiar's Ultimate Compound
• Dealer's "First Place Finish" Wax (soon to be Mequiar's) and Kit
• Meguiar's Ultimate UV Protectant (spray)
• Meguiar's Rich Leather Cleaner/Conditioner (spray)
• ArmourAll Extreme Tire Shine (aeresol)
• Occasional Wheel Cleaner (spray, for brake dust)
• Occasional Engine Degreaser (emulsion, also for underbelly)
• Windex, Dawn dish fluid, etc
• Microfiber towels and Chamois
• Fine point modeling brush and paint sample

A black car takes a bit more frequent attention, and generally I wash once a week by hand with a wash-n-wax soap. This means full rinse, very sudsy wash with the waxy soap, full rinse again, partial air dry, then wipe down with the two-towel trick using the incredible microfiber towels to remove water spots.

I wax it proper once a month or two, depending on how smooth the surface feels, and sometimes I'll just do the front clip, mirrors, etc, and save the rest for the next full wax. Waxing the old-fashioned way, I usually start first by polishing out scratches and nicks and touching up paint chips with a modeling brush and tiny dabs of paint as needed. As I've done once already, I plan to use a paint blending professional once a year to cover over major scratches, rock chips, etc. Basically, it's a minor sanding and airbrush technique using the exact original Beckett's Black (basic black with metallic flakes and pearl) which is cost-effective, around $275 for a treatment.

Sometimes, when it hasn't rained for a while and the car is just dusty, the "wash" will just be a quick rinse and a wipe down. If a rain comes through, I try not to drive in it, but allow the car to sit in the rain, if possible. The rain (here) doesn't leave water spots and takes care of the dust, but doesn't need a wipe down, if it air dries fully.

Every once in a while I use wheel cleaner or degreaser to keep the undercarriage as clean as a daily driver can be with a heavy rinse, particularly if I've recently driven on gravel, dirt, etc. I'll actually wash the engine compartment with the waxy soap, every so often.

The interior requires less attention for me, generally, but the leather conditioner is great for many of the materials in the R-Spec Coupe, the UV protectant for everything else. The main problem inside is dirt collecting on the driver's side floor mat, dust building up as I put the windows down a lot, and most frustratingly, keeping the inside glass clean and clear, especially the rear window. I don't really like to over-coat interiors with protectant. My car came with a Banoyl treatment put on by the dealer, and that seems to help.

Lastly, I have two of those windshield sun reflectors for front/rear, and I'm considering a full car cover for next Summer, since I don't have a garage. Even when it's not hot here in "Famously Hot" Columbia, I use the larger reflector in the front to keep sunlight off the interior - black car with black/red interior, but also to slow aging. Obviously, if I can, I park in the shade.

So, my routine is pretty normal detailing with regular consumer supplies. I get lots of compliments on how clean and brand new the car looks! Yes, I put in a fair amount of time to earn those compliments and head turns, though, but this is a hobby like anything else

 

[Silver Gen]

Auto Detailing 101

Top Gear has it down pretty good, but I would agree to disagree on a few things, lol. I exclusively use Chemical Guys/SmartWax products. Chemical Guys is a higher quality (and yes more expensive, but lasts longer because you don't have to use as much) than the SmartWax products.

I gave up my shammy about 4 years ago when I learned that, yes; it picks up water well and is lint free, but it also removes polish and wax. A microfiber towel of the same size blows a shammy "out of the water" so to speak. It's easier to use, picks up more water, rings out better, washes easier and lasts longer; and it doesn't get all stiff like beef jerky when it's dry, lol.

One thing I didn't see Top Gear talk about, and this is something I learned. What most people don't realize is with the later model cars, the paint, just like a persons skin, is "porous". So when I wash, clay, polish and wax your car, it's like giving it a facial treatment. Failure to keep your skin clean will cause your pores to become clogged, your skin will turn grey and begin to breakout; it will become rough and craggy to the touch, etc; well the same thing happens to your car if your don't keep it clean.

I start out by rinsing off the dirt, then scrubbing the tires and cleaning the rims with soapy water, rinsing them off afterwards. Next I rinse the car off and then section by section, wash it. The secret here to minimizing surface scratches (the swirly marks you see in a cars paint when you look at it from a certain angle), is to use a soap that removes the dirt from the surface of the paint and holds it, so that while I'm washing the car using a microfiber mitt, no scratches will occur. Once again I rinse the car off.

At a certain point, washing and even waxing your car is not enough to maintain, or obtain a glossy, smooth, shine on the surface. When contaminants such as bird droppings, brake dust and environmental pollutants settle and stay on your car's surface, they become stuck in the top layer of the paint. You can wash and wax all you want, but soap, water and wax won't remove them; the only safe way to remove all of these contaminants is with a clay bar treatment. Using a clay bar on a car will make the surface smooth and ready for polishing and waxing.

While the car is still wet I begin the "claying" process. I prefer a pre-made clay bar, which is literally a piece of clay attached to a "sponge" that I run over the car (including the windows) to remove the afore mentioned contaminants that dull and damage your cars paint job. This is the equivalent of having a mask applied during a facial to pull all the impurities from your skin. When I was doing a white car after washing it, even though it appeared clean, as I was claying it, the remaining liquid residue that was coming off was brownish-yellow in color. After the claying process I rinse the car off again and then dry it with a microfiber towel. At this point I also open the trunk, hood, doors and gas cap door to clean and get the remaining water out of those areas (like cleaning under your arms and behind your ears) LOL!

I then go over the car with a blower to remove any unseen water that may remain in the cracks and crevices. This is what you see on your car after you've washed and dried it off (you thought you got all the water) and then drive it somewhere and then when you stop, you see water spots all over the car. I not only "blow" the car's body, but the tires and wheels too, after which I apply the tire dressing. After this I polish and wax the car.

To apply the polish I use a Porter Cable orbital polisher. This one won't let you "burn" your paint. I do a section of the car at a time, spreading the polish and wax around on the "2" setting, and for the polish, finish applying it on the "6" setting. This gets rid of all the swirl marks. For deeper swirls and scratches, you'll need to use a "stronger cutting" lower "grit" polish. For the wax, when applying it you leave the polisher on the "2" setting. For the polish and wax, remove by hand with a microfiber towel.

The last step after removing the wax is to use a detailing spray, high gloss synthetic sealent. This will bring up the gloss even more while also protecting the claying, polish and wax job you just did. You won't need to clay, polish or wax your car again for about another 3 months.

And that's auto detailing 101!

 

[PMCErnie]

Just trying to assist you energetic detailers here. Yes, shammy is spelled chamois. I take my car to the three dollar car wash where it is air dried.

 

[Top Gear]

Top Gear has it down pretty good, but I would agree to disagree on a few things, lol.

Oh, I wouldn't really disagree with anything you said, Silver. I'm not a "pro detailer" or expert, but I've waxed a lot of different paints over the years, new and old, and don't mind a little elbow grease. Keeping the car clean is a Zen thing

I agree about the chamois, for example, and only use it as a final buffer in one hand with a wax-off microfiber in the other - otherwise chamois is useless to me. I've used the "First Place Finish" mystery wax because the car care kit came with the car (various treatments were also done before I ever saw the car) and I was keen to try something new, wax-wise. I've been impressed with the wax, to be sure, but no more impressed than I would be with any wax from Meguiars or Mothers or Chemical Guys. I cannot find out if the First Place stuff is carnauba or synwax, but I know it's compatible with the original paint/coatings and at least poses no risk whatsoever. Now that it's used up (I could get more from the dealer) I've been trying to decide what to try next, such as Meguiars or Mothers, and I'm intrigued by Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax, too.

Anyway, there is a difference between maintaining a new finish and restoring an old finish. I think that's where our different approaches are coming from. I've been mostly focused on simply keeping a new car clean and looking new, which is not super demanding in terms of technique or product. However, as I've experienced with older vehicles with already deteriorated paint, when instead of just cleaning and protecting the job becomes a restoration, then your wax/buffing techniques are the way to go Edit: There is also a middle area, too, and I think my paint might be ready for a full orbital buff job, because of swirls, nicks, etc.

Beyond that, people like various brands of wax for their own reasons, and it usually doesn't mean one is better than another. I highly doubt a Chemical Guys product is objectively "better" than a comparable Meguiar's product, for example, since both are top notch. For someone using relatively small amounts of wax on one or two cars at home, the "pro" technique with hard to find product is probably overkill on a regular basis - unless the paint is gone and needs to be restored by a pro

 

[Vince2]

A question for you guys: how do you handle the small, parking lot dings in your doors? Are the small, professional dent removal companies worth a try? I'm not trying to hijack the thread but I imagine people reading a "definitive" detailing thread might know.

 

[Top Gear]

Well, first, I'm one of those who takes two or more spaces well away from the cheap seats. I've had one door ding on the Coupe, that was in the first week, and hope it will be the last. Major pet peeve of mine

Anway, the "paintless dent" guys at the dealer and such are really good with those things - mine totally disappeared, along with an unsightly hail damage dent on the hood. So, yeah, they can fix it, and to avoid it in future, don't park with the lazies unless you absolutely have to.

 

[Vince2]

Thanks Topgear, I'll give the paintless guys a try. I'll ask the dealer for a name or have the service done at my next oil change.

 

[Top Gear]

I have to say, because of this discussion and others, researching as well, and looking over my paint's swirls, holograms, etc, I've decided to change my approach. I've ordered a Porter Cable as well as getting a "West Coast Duster". I figure the duster will cut down on the number of washes/rinses (and thus the swirls), and the PC will allow me to do a pro job on a regular basis with compound, polish and wax

 

[veed]

+1

Just trying to assist you energetic detailers here. Yes, shammy is spelled chamois. I take my car to the three dollar car wash where it is air dried.

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[Silver Gen]

I have to say, because of this discussion and others, researching as well, and looking over my paint's swirls, holograms, etc, I've decided to change my approach. I've ordered a Porter Cable as well as getting a "West Coast Duster". I figure the duster will cut down on the number of washes/rinses (and thus the swirls), and the PC will allow me to do a pro job on a regular basis with compound, polish and wax

Top Gear, your car is pretty new so you shouldn't need to use any compound; I'd think that would be too harsh and you may damage your clear coat. A good claying and then a polish & wax should do the trick. Chemical Guys has three different polishes with varying degrees of "grit" to take out scratches, swirls and marrs, V34, V36 and V38 with 34 being the "strongest" and 38 being the least "cutting".

As I had stated in my previous post, the Porter Cable is the way to go. Hand waxing is great, but you cannot beat and you'll never get the same results from hand polishing that you'll get using the PC. And then applying the wax with the PC will cut down on the time you spend, getting you the same or better results; the only thing I do "by hand" is remove the products.

You can go on Youtube and check out some of the Chemical Guys videos that tell you how to use their products and do different things to you car like how to remove swirls in your paint which are really noticeable in black and dark colored cars; mine is mirabeau blue so I'm familiar.

Sounds like you're ready and on the way to having the car look brand new again, congratulations!

 

[Top Gear]

Thanks, Silver. Don't ask me why, but somehow I've kinda bonded with Meguiar's products over the years. About the compounding, I've used Meg's Ultimate Compound (based on their pro 105 SMAT cut compound) on small spots and it works great, not aggressive at all. I've also used the slightly more aggressive ScratchX for more stubborn scratches, but really can't tell the difference. I just added Ultimate Polish (based on their pro 205 polish). Discussion on the Meguiar's site from the company reps and other experts and pros recommends a wash, clay using detailer as lube, wash again, cut/compound, polish, wax, then detailer after washing between waxes, and a regular wax during the months until the paint needs the clay-cut-polish cycle again.

I've never clayed the car, which is about a year old since dealer delivery, and it's non-garaged. The biggest problems with the paint are the rapidly accumulating rock chips from the road on the front clip, so I'm resigned to having the paint blended every year or so by a local pro I've used once so far, and touching up the paint myself with a brush between his treatments. The paint looked perfect coming into the Fall (as in my current avatar pic, taken in July), but has quickly accumulated various problems since then, problems more difficult than minor swirls, like overspray from the blending process, chips, hazy blotches, proper scratches, holograms from quick polishing, etc

In my first post above, I just wasn't seeing those problems seriously enough, and was speaking more generally, anyway. After that day, though, I'd waxed the car again after a short trip to a Charlotte Cars & Coffee show. Despite everyone saying the car looked great and better than most, I got two nasty chips on the hood driving there and started to see a number of issues during the next day's wax that hand-polishing and too-frequent washing just wasn't getting, or...gulp...making worse! , so I did a lot of reading and decided to start all over...live and learn.

 

[Top Gear]

I'm a geek, so after doing much research, shopping, and waiting for the Porter Cable and buffing supplies to arrive, here's my updated game plan for 2013. Sorry for the long posts in this thread, but I hope all this helps those of you like me who are overwhelmed by all the products and opinions and stores and techniques, etc, etc, etc...

REGULAR WASH

• Wheel Cleaner Spray (especially for brake dust, also for underbelly)
• Two Buckets (sudsy and plain water) & Typical Microfiber Mitt
• Wash-n-Wax Soap (use AmourAll, Meguiar's, Mothers, Rain-X, etc)
• Microfiber Towels for Drying to prevent hard Water Spots
• Tire Shiner (I try different ones when they run out, or suck)
• Meguiar's Ultimate Black/Ultimate Protectant (for plastic trim)

PAINT CORRECTION DETAILING

• Meguiar's Clay Kit with Quick Detailer as "lube" (after washing)
• Meguiar's ScratchX (occassional deeper scratches, by hand)
• Fine point Brush & Factory Paint Sample (for paint chips, by hand)
• Porter Cable 7346SP (similar/upgrade from 7424XP, Home Depot)
• Meguiar's W67DA 5-inch Backing & 6.5-inch Soft Buff DA Pads (Summit)
• Meguiar's Ultimate Compound -->> Burgundy-Cutting DA Pad
• Meguiar's Ultimate Polish -->> Yellow-Polishing DA Pad
• Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Carnauba Wax -->> Beige-Finishing DA Pad
• Microfiber Towels & Chamois for Product Removal, Buffing

REGULAR DETAILING

• Meguiar's Gold Class Quick Detailer (between washes, matches wax)
• Meguiar's Gold Class Quick Wax (between corrections, matches wax)
• Microfiber Towels & Chamois for Product Removal, Buffing
• California Duster (for pollen, light dust, etc)

INTERIOR CARE

• Meguiar's Ultimate UV Protectant (spray)
• Meguiar's Rich Leather Cleaner/Conditioner (spray)
• Windex, Dawn, as needed for windows, spills, etc
• Typical Reflective Sun Shades

BY THE WAY

• Car is not garage-kept , I currently don't use a cover , and it's black-on-black
• I live in the hot Southeast, with baking humid Summers and forgettable Winters
• Snow is very rare, rain is average to heavy Gulf moisture and non-acidic in my area, yeilding a spot-free rinse if sitting, but a dirty mess if driving
• Pollen can be like a sandstorm in the Spring, tree sap and pollution are "normal" for the Southeastern US
• During 2012 the car was new and I was washing every week (great product and mitt, but single bucket), waxing every month or so, but the swirls and other defects caught up with me
• I've leaned toward Meguiar's because they have a full system all figured out, and they are readily available in stores for the most part - but you may like Lake Country, Chemical Guys, Adams, Mothers, and so on
• My prejudices (um, "lessons" from previous cars) are to avoid overly aggressive or cheap products like Turtle Wax compound or ArmourAll's classic protectant
• These pro-quality supplies cost around $350 USD
• Liquid products should last a year or more, Porter Cable & pads indefinitely, so yearly costs should be $100 or less
• Professional paint "blending" (basically air-brushing) is the best low-cost option for yearly-or-so paint-matched perfect touch-ups from accumulated rock chips and whatnot

Wish me luck

 

[scottdk]

Good info TG^

I have some paint restoration done on my Genesis (I also have a thread) and I figured I'd share the process also:

Process:

Wash - Foamed with OPC/CGCW followed by 2BM wash and CGCW
Wheels - P21S Gel and various brushes
Tires - OPC, dressed with Hyper Dressing 3:1
Clay - Blackfire Clay and M34 as lube
Initial Correction Step - M105 on the GG6 with Surbuf pads
Intermediate polishing step - D300/MF on the GG6
Finishing Step - 106fa via rotary and Blue LC pads
Exhaust tips - Optimum Metal Polish
Protection - Blackfire Wet Diamond

http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-...sedan-major-paint-correction.html#post1502896

Turned out amazing

 

[Top Gear]

Very nice results in the other thread's pics! My black is very similar. Don't know what most of those product abbreviations are in your description, but the result looks awesome! Just goes to show it's not so much the "brand" but the technique

 

[Vince2]

Scottdk that paragraph is written in a foreign language! Can you convert all of the abbreviations so those not familiar with these products can understand what you are writing about?

 

[scottdk]

Sorry Vince! I have no idea what the hell it means I have sent my detailer a message in hopes to translate.......

EDIT - Translation is here!

OPC = Optimum Power Clean (degreaser)
CGCW = Chemical Guys Citrus Wash (soap)
P21S is a brand, wheel cleaner in this case
M34 is a Meguiar's detail spray
M105 and D300 are a Meguiar's polishing compound, MF is for micro fiber pads.
GG6 is short for Groits Garage 6" DA polisher
106fa is a Menzerna finishing polish
LC is short for Lake Country

 

[triple33]

General question- as a rule of thumb, would twice a year be enough in terms of waxing a car to keep the car's appearance looking good?

 

[NSXNEXT]

General question- as a rule of thumb, would twice a year be enough in terms of waxing a car to keep the car's appearance looking good?

Depends...

What's the climate where the car will spend most of it's time?
Do you drive in snow? Do they salt the roads?
Is the car garaged? How much time a day?
Synthetic or carnauba wax?
How often will you wash the car?
Hand wash or machine wash?
If machine, brushless or brush car wash?

 

[Vince2]

Scott that's funny. I went to the website and googled the terms and I still don't get it. There are so many products and methods that I guess you just experiment until you find something that works for you...glazes, sealants, waxes, detailers, washes, dressings, toweling, buffers... it's just too confusing. I found a thread several years back ("How to keep your Genesis shining all the time" in the coupe section) that advised an initial washing and then a damp toweling every other day or three works well. I use that along with a twice a year clay bear and wax (a wax rated highly in Consumer Reports) and my car does shine all of the time. I'll keep reading this and other threads about detailing in the hopes of finding a tidbit here and there that improves my present routine.


Hey thanks Scott, I just read the bottom of your last post with the translations. Most times when I see a list of items at the bottom of a post I assume it's just a recount of what the owner has on his car or the cars he owns. Thanks again.