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Obcure product question: Johnson window films "Insulatir" ceramic tint?

my2wins

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I've searched everywhere and found very little about this product, other than one mention of someone here using it only on one window. Does anyone have experience with or knowledge about it?

I set out to look for Huper Optik or Llumar, but its a two hour drive to the nearest authorized installer for HO. Along the discovery process I was recommended two excellent installers with 100% positive Yelp reviews, including from Tesla owner forum. But neither install the specific tint products I had in mind, based on discussions in this forum. Instead one guy comes to your house or work but only uses Johnson window film. He says he's been doing it 15 years his excellent yelp reviews corroborate his experience and customer sat. The other guy has a dingy little shop nearby, uses 3M or Suntek, and also has hundreds of perfect yelp reviews.

The mobile guy quoted me $450 to do all 9(?) windows with Johnson Insulator.


I've studied the threads and know all about the purported issues with metallic, so I'm going with ceramic. (I've also read there's a bit of hype going on and maybe its all a marketing BS ploy, but I'm thinking better safe than sorry).

More info on Insulatir
http://www.johnsonwindowfilms.com/ir.php

Would welcome any input on this specific product. Ive done tons of research, and am planning to pull the trigger one way or another by the end of this week. But before I proceed, just wanted to get any input as you guys are my one source of truth.
 
You didn't state which Insulatir film type (VLT) you are planning to use. CA regulations are for 70 VLT or lighter on the front side windows. Insulatir has a 70% film, but some other ceramic brands do not.

If you are planning to go a little darker than the CA regulations, Formula One Pinnacle is an excellent ceramic tint film and they have a 50 VLT model (and obviously darker ones) . Formula One is the high-end division of Llumar. A lot of members of this forum have installed Formula One Pinnacle (including myself) and are happy with the results.

You can find authorized Formula One Installers here:
http://www.formulaone.com/en/FindADealer.aspx


Huper Optik has a good reputation, but it is tricky to install since it was made for office buildings, and is thicker than most others, so harder to install on even slightly curved glass. There is some controversy as to whether Huper Optik is 100% ceramic, or whether it has some metallic particles in it also.

I paid $380 for my Formula One Tint job, but that was in the dead of winter, and was not in CA.
 
I was planning to go 30% on the rear two plus the back window, and 35% on the front two. And potentially add a clear on the windshield (for UVA protection) and maybe on the moon roof too, depending on whether the existing film has UV filter or not. (Need to research that on Hyundai data sheets tmrw).

I drove around in my past 2 cars, over the last decade, without any Popo issues, in the same 30/35 combo--so I'm assuming its ok for the new car.

I'm not hung up on the actual numbers but I do want max UV filter and moderate darkness for eye sensitivity. I don't care about the privacy level, so optically if it looks light, I'm ok with whatever numbers give me a decent shade from the rays.

What my last installer told me is that he noticed that by putting a slightly lighter tint on the front 2 windows (ie 35%), it gives an illusion of being legal, when contrasted with the darker back windows (of say 30%)--or at least more so than putting a uniform tint (of either 35 or 30) on both front and back. He said its enough of an optical illusion to keep under the radar. Not sure if that's actually true, but I never got pulled over with my prior non-legal tint, so I'm figuring it was probably fairly good advice.

Thx for the lead on Pinnacle. I will try again to find an installer nearby. I do like the idea of using this mobile guy who will come to my house or work and has 15 years of happy customers track record including honoring warranties-but I'm leary of using the Johnson product unless I can hear first hand from others who have it. So far, it seems like an unknown.

I'm right in the middle of the SF Bay Area and its surprising how few installers I can find. I had a lengthy email exchange with the Huper Optik corporate office and they told me the one installer I located in the Bay Area is no longer an authorized dealer, and my job wouldn't be under warranty.

I guess a few more hours of research before deciding is worth it.
 
You can find authorized Formula One Installers here:
http://www.formulaone.com/en/FindADealer.aspx


/QUOTE]

So bizarre! When I use their dealer locator, there is no one within 2 hours of me that's an authorized Formula One installer. You'd think these high end tint manufacturers would be clamoring to grow market share in this area. I can't even blink without seeing a Lexus, MBZ or now Tesla zoom by yet there are so few places to get a high end tint install.

I wonder where all these other bay area folks are getting their rides tinted!
 
I wonder where all these other bay area folks are getting their rides tinted!
I always assumed it was because of the strict CA tint laws. I guess you can start calling around various tint shops and ask if they have Formula One (even if some are not authorized dealers).

The specs on the Johnson film look good to me. My suspicion is that they don't make the Insulatir film themselves, and are reselling a ceramic made by some other manufacturer (or made for them by some other manufacturer).
 
I've searched everywhere and found very little about this product, other than one mention of someone here using it only on one window. Does anyone have experience with or knowledge about it?

Would welcome any input on this specific product. Ive done tons of research, and am planning to pull the trigger one way or another by the end of this week. But before I proceed, just wanted to get any input as you guys are my one source of truth.

I am the "someone here using it only on one window".

I tinted the windshield on my Genesis with Insulatir IR 60:

http://www.genesisowners.com/hyundai-genesis-forum/showpost.php?p=98945&postcount=17

I have done this on many vehicles: a 2000 Dodge Dakota R/T, 2005 Dodge Magnum, 2006 Chevrolet SSR, 2006 Infiniti M45, 2012 Hyundai Genesis, and my current 2012 Infiniti M56S.

Most of these vehicles have had black or dark colored interiors, and the film cuts heat dramatically. It also cuts glare at night; something my eyes are very sensitive to.

The film has a semi-reflective grayish hue in overcast conditions, and a semi-reflective grayish/golden hue in the sunlight. I prefer it on the windshield over a non-ceramic film, as it reflects heat instead of absorbing heat.

I also prefer it on the windshield because of the color properties; one is less likely to get hassled for it because it looks more like an InstaClear windshield, rather than one that has been tinted.

Hope this info helps.
 
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I am the "someone here using it only on one window".

I tinted the windshield on my Genesis with Insulatir IR 60:

http://www.genesisowners.com/hyundai-genesis-forum/showpost.php?p=98945&postcount=17

WOAH!!!! Your tint looks awesome.

Can I ask this: is there a reason you didn't use Insulatir all the way around? Or better yet, is there any reason I shouldn't use it all around, if that turns out to be my best option? (I still haven't been able to locate too many other options near me after a few more calls today).

Here's the two bids I have from the local guys (both have 100% positive Yelp reviews and an extensive sampling of past customers going as far back as 15 years...)

Scenario #1: $450 for all windows (including moonroof & windshield)
Only uses Johnson Window Film: Insulatir (non-metallic)
Lifetime Guarantee
15+ years and multiple repeat customer reviews, all raving
Mobile, comes to your home or work (I need to double check whether his patterns are cut by hand or via plotter and CAD)
can be scheduled this week or next.

Scenario #2: range is from $565 to $715* for all windows (incl moonroof and windshield) with exact price depending on which one I choose from the following non-metallic products: Llumar CTX, Llumar Air80, Suntek CTP or 3M Colorstable
*Quote above is for the Llumar. Price is ~$150 less, or $565, for their lower end non-metallic tint. [break down is $400 for 4 windows & rear, + $40 for sunroof, + 275 for windshield]
Lifetime Guarantee on all, pattern is plotter CAD cut not by hand with razor
His shop is booked up til mid July, so it will be another month before I can get on the schedule.

Thoughts welcomed.
 
WOAH!!!! Your tint looks awesome.

Can I ask this: is there a reason you didn't use Insulatir all the way around? Or better yet, is there any reason I shouldn't use it all around, if that turns out to be my best option? (I still haven't been able to locate too many other options near me after a few more calls today).

Thoughts welcomed.

Thank you, I appreciate that. :)

I chose not to use Insulatir all the way around because I prefer the look of the Solargard film; it has a rich, deep "blacked out" tone. The Insulatir film in a lower VLT than the 60% has a more reflective and golden hue.

There is no reason not use it all around, other than personal preference with regards to the cosmetic properties.

Given the two options you listed, I would be more inclined to go with #1. My deciding factor would be that not all glass is exactly the same, and as such I prefer hand cut and filed edges over plotter cut film. It would suck to pay that much for tint, and have a slight light gap anywhere!
 
Thank you, I appreciate that. :)

I chose not to use Insulatir all the way around because I prefer the look of the Solargard film; it has a rich, deep "blacked out" tone. The Insulatir film in a lower VLT than the 60% has a more reflective and golden hue.

There is no reason not use it all around, other than personal preference with regards to the cosmetic properties.

Given the two options you listed, I would be more inclined to go with #1. My deciding factor would be that not all glass is exactly the same, and as such I prefer hand cut and filed edges over plotter cut film. It would suck to pay that much for tint, and have a slight light gap anywhere!
I am not a tint installation expert, but wouldn't a pre-cut film (plotter, etc) be preferable for back glass? I would think that using a razor blade to the film on the back glass might risk the danger of cutting through the defroster, etc. Just speculating.
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It is safe to cut the film on the back glass, as the defrost lines are on the inside of the glass.

I personally cut the film free hand, but some installers like the pre-cut stuff. I just know from experience not all applications are the same due to window shifting (roll down windows only), so gaps on the side(s) will be present on some windows. There are a number of products designed to "cover" or mask the gaps slightly, but I don't think those products should exist. If the pre-cut film was excellent, I would be using it, but the extra cost and lack of consistancy swade me the other direction.
 
I am not a tint installation expert, but wouldn't a pre-cut film (plotter, etc) be preferable for back glass? I would think that using a razor blade to the film on the back glass might risk the danger of cutting through the defroster, etc. Just speculating.

The film is cut and shrunk on the outside of the glass, not the inside; so there is no risk of cutting the defogger lines. Further, the film is cut with about a 1/4 inch overlap onto the black matrix part of the window.
 
my2wins - did you do it yet? Choice 1 - I need contact info please for this guy, thanks. I'm in SF.

Hi, just PM'd you with the contact info for option 1.

I haven't done it yet but I'm on the schedule for July with option 2 guy. Still thinking about going with option 1. Do you know anything about Insulatir product line? Certain the installer is excellent. Just not too familiar with the product.
 
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