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Synthetic Oil Changeover

rickfen

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I have about 3000km (2000 miles) on my 2015 3.8 now. I want to changeover to synth oil.
I then plan on a 6 month/10000km (6500miles) oil change schedule.
We take long driving trips (7500 miles +) and the car also sits (in an underground heated garage) for up to 3 months at a time.

Is this a good schedule or is there another recommendation. I used this on my 2010 Genny and it seemed fine, but I'm open to suggestions.

BTW, I loved my 2010, but I REALLY love my 2015:D

thanks
 
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SYNTHETIC IS THE WAY TO Roll. Do some research just because the label says its synthetic doesn't mean it is. Castrol is one of them that's full of crap. Mac
 
I have about 3000km (2000 miles) on my 2015 3.8 now. I want to changeover to synth oil.
I then plan on a 6 month/10000km (6500miles) oil change schedule.
We take long driving trips (7500 miles +) and the car also sits (in an underground heated garage) for up to 3 months at a time.

Is this a good schedule or is there another recommendation. I used this on my 2010 Genny and it seemed fine, but I'm open to suggestions.

BTW, I loved my 2010, but I REALLY love my 2015:D

thanks

Seems reasonable to me - I switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic at my first oil change as well!
 
SYNTHETIC IS THE WAY TO Roll. Do some research just because the label says its synthetic doesn't mean it is. Castrol is one of them that's full of crap. Mac

Please explain why synthetic oil is the way to go. If you change oil every 3 to 6 months where is the benefit and why is Castrol full of crap. I am sitting on the fence as to which way to go and would appreciate your reasoning.
 
Please explain why synthetic oil is the way to go. If you change oil every 3 to 6 months where is the benefit and why is Castrol full of crap. I am sitting on the fence as to which way to go and would appreciate your reasoning.

From what I've read in many opinion pieces on it, synthetic oil provides a higher level of lubrication at startup and in high and low temperatures, which results in better overall engine protection. My daily commute to work is only 5 miles, so the better cold weather lubrication and more immediate lubrication at start are enough to sell me as my engine doesn't fully warm up for most of drive during those short trips.
 
Please explain why synthetic oil is the way to go. If you change oil every 3 to 6 months where is the benefit and why is Castrol full of crap. I am sitting on the fence as to which way to go and would appreciate your reasoning.
If you change your own oil, the difference in price is negligible, especially if you buy in 5-quart jugs at Walmart.

I am not going to go over all the benefits of synthetic (you can read that elsewhere), but I am absolutely convinced it is the way to go. Note that most Toyota and Honda vehicles now specify synthetic (or specify 0W-20 which is only available in a synthetic).

I will address the Castrol issue. Mac West is referring to the fact that Castrol (now owned by BP) developed a new class of oil that is severely hydrocracked (using very high pressure and heat). These Group III oils are sometimes described as synthesized hydrocarbons sold it as "synthetic" starting in about 1997. Mobil complained to the FTC and said that only Group IV PAO or Group V Esters could be called synthetic, and that Castrol was making false advertising claims. A judge ruled that Group III Severely Hydrocracked Oil had its molecular structure modified and was substantially different than Group II conventional oil and could be called "synthetic." Note that this only applies to the USA, and in many foreign companies, they still cannot call a Group III oil synthetic.

Since then, there have been more advances in hydrocracking technology, and Group III oils are now quite good in comparison to Group IV and V synthetics. And because of lower costs, most brands of synthetic sold in the US are either 100% Group III (not counting additives), or a blend of Group III with some Group IV/V components. Even Mobil 1 switched from 100% Group IV/V to a blend that has about 35% Group IV/V components (rest is Group III). Even Castrol Edge Extended Performance "may" have some of Group IV/V in it (regular Castrol Edge is 100% Group III).

Amsoil used to claim that they were 100% Group IV and V, but they now have three lines of oil, and only the most expensive line has any Group IV or V, and even now it uses some Group III.

Shell has developed a new type of Group III hydrocracked that uses natural gas instead of conventional oil. It is sold under their Pennzoil Platinum brand in the US.

In any event, even a 100% Group III motor oil is superior to any conventional Group II motor oil, even if you use a generic brand of synthetic (like Walmart Tech 2000). But a 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 at Walmart is only $25, so why bother with anything else. Most oil change places will allow you to bring in your own oil to use, which is usually cheaper than what they charge for synthetics.

Review Motor Oil Group Classification:

  • Group I - Conventional Oil (less than 90 percent saturates) - no longer meets API requirements for new vehicle engines.
  • Group II - Conventional Oil (more than 90 percent saturates) that is moderately hydrocracked. Most non-synthetic motor oil sold for vehicle engines is this group.
  • Group III - Conventional Oil that is severely hydrocracked to create synthesized hydrocarbons. The vast majority of synthetic motor oils sold in the USA as synthetics are 100% group III (not counting additives).
  • Group IV - Polyalphaolefin (PAO) synthetics - Used in some better quality synthetics such as Mobil 1 (along with Group III).
  • Group V - Ester synthetics (not necessarily better than Group IV in all respects, and often used in oil additives)
 
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From what I've read in many opinion pieces on it, synthetic oil provides a higher level of lubrication at startup and in high and low temperatures, which results in better overall engine protection. My daily commute to work is only 5 miles, so the better cold weather lubrication and more immediate lubrication at start are enough to sell me as my engine doesn't fully warm up for most of drive during those short trips.

Nikgen & Mark_888 I really appreciate your response & what you both said makes sense. Thank you both.
 
This depends on if you plan on keeping the car a long time, I use synthetic but keep my cars for over 250,000. But there are a lot of people that use conventional oil and they also last just as long
 
If you trade or sell your new car before 100,000 miles I see little reason to use synthetic oil unless its what the mfg. requires.

Sure, shorten the life for the next guy - why not?:confused:
That could turn out to be a little shortsighted thinking to me - while you might not plan to keep it longer, work/life situations can change and you might have to keep it longer - so why not make a little extra effort to enhance longevity. If the extra spend on oil is an issue, maybe you bought a car you really can't afford in the first place. But, as always, "to each his own"...
 
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Even if you do not change you own oil I would switch. On the gf's Acura we just bring a 5 quart Mobil 1 jug (Walmart $26) to the dealer and they charge us labor, filter and environmental fee, usually comes to around $20-$25.
 
Did I see correctly? Does the 3.8 take 7.2 qts? What is the genral price total, synthetic, to change the oil & filter??
 
I then plan on a 6 month/10000km (6500miles) oil change schedule.

My owner's manual says 6 months/12000 km (7500 mi) is the normal interval, and cuts that in half for severe driving conditions. The long driving trips you take seem like they'd be the exact opposite of what the manual considers severe driving conditions. With modern engines and oils (dino or synthetic), there's really no need to get oil changes sooner than specified.

Oil can pick up moisture due to temperature/humidity changes when the car is stored for extended periods, so it might be a good idea to change it after it's been stored. The heated garage may prevent this.
 
Sure, shorten the life for the next guy - why not?:confused:
That could turn out to be a little shortsighted thinking to me - while you might not plan to keep it longer, work/life situations can change and you might have to keep it longer - so why not make a little extra effort to enhance longevity. If the extra spend on oil is an issue, maybe you bought a car you really can't afford in the first place. But, as always, "to each his own"...

Assuming normal driving conditions, how much will the life of the engine shorten by using regular oil instead of synthetic?

I haven't been able to find any factual information (not a marketing piece from a synthetic oil seller) that quantifies longevity for us. Its hard to believe that with with all the taxi fleets, govt vehicle fleets, military vehicles, there is no definitive study but I can't find one.

I am certain that under some conditions synthetic oil may be environmentally superior, may be better for the engine, may be cheaper in the long run due to less frequent changes.

But increased engine life? Where is the study.

And as far as my having some obligation to help the engine last longer for subsequent buyers, I feel no obligation to help the "next guy" get a better motor than if I just follow the manufacturers recommendation.

Frankly, if you are patting yourself on the back for being a better human being because you're helping out some subsequent buyer, sorry, no points are awarded for that.
 
Assuming normal driving conditions, how much will the life of the engine shorten by using regular oil instead of synthetic?

I haven't been able to find any factual information (not a marketing piece from a synthetic oil seller) that quantifies longevity for us. Its hard to believe that with with all the taxi fleets, govt vehicle fleets, military vehicles, there is no definitive study but I can't find one.

I am certain that under some conditions synthetic oil may be environmentally superior, may be better for the engine, may be cheaper in the long run due to less frequent changes.

But increased engine life? Where is the study.

And as far as my having some obligation to help the engine last longer for subsequent buyers, I feel no obligation to help the "next guy" get a better motor than if I just follow the manufacturers recommendation.

Frankly, if you are patting yourself on the back for being a better human being because you're helping out some subsequent buyer, sorry, no points are awarded for that.

Not patting myself on the back at all. While there may be no published studies, the better cold weather start and overall lubrication properties of synthetic can only be a good thing for longevity vs conventional oil if you end up keeping the car long term (planned or not). Even if that just means the engine burns less oil later in it's life, I'll take that as a a benefit. That's all, so you can stop trying to psychoanalyze....
 
Assuming normal driving conditions, how much will the life of the engine shorten by using regular oil instead of synthetic?

I haven't been able to find any factual information (not a marketing piece from a synthetic oil seller) that quantifies longevity for us. Its hard to believe that with with all the taxi fleets, govt vehicle fleets, military vehicles, there is no definitive study but I can't find one.
I don't think engine life is a black or white situation. An engine's performance may be degraded without it completely failing. I have seen a lot of people complain about weird engine noises, and when they take it to a dealer for warranty service, they say the noise is normal :eek:.

I don't know of any studies, but a lot of luxury car manufacturers such as MBW and MB specify synthetic oil, and I am talking about their everyday passenger cars, not just high-end sports cars. Obviously, most high-end sports cars specify synthetic (including Chevy Corvette).

In fact, Toyota and Honda now specify synthetic for most of their vehicles, although it may be a "hidden" requirement by specifying 0W-20 viscosity, which is only available in a synthetic. Even before they specified synthetic on all their cars, I know that Acura required synthetic on their Turbo engine (not sure they make that engine anymore).
 
I personally feel it's a Fox guarding the chicken coup story. Dealerships get to charge big bucks for something that is a unproven fairy tail. Do you really believe they want things to last longer....why are their warrantees so time senceitive with engine life?? Oil change at my dealership are $56 for oil $106 for synthetic.
That's $50 bucks more in shear profit.
 
Not patting myself on the back at all. While there may be no published studies, the better cold weather start and overall lubrication properties of synthetic can only be a good thing for longevity vs conventional oil if you end up keeping the car long term (planned or not). Even if that just means the engine burns less oil later in it's life, I'll take that as a a benefit. That's all, so you can stop trying to psychoanalyze....

No psychoanalysis needed if you tell us why you so want this to be true that you believe it and talk about it with no supporting evidence.

Its almost funny. "I'll take that as a benefit."...... Sure, if its true. But I suspect that with all the money behind synthetics there would be lots of studies proving the point.... if it were true.

As Colbert used to say, it has the ring of 'truthiness', even if its not true.
 
No psychoanalysis needed if you tell us why you so want this to be true that you believe it and talk about it with no supporting evidence.

Its almost funny. "I'll take that as a benefit."...... Sure, if its true. But I suspect that with all the money behind synthetics there would be lots of studies proving the point.... if it were true.

As Colbert used to say, it has the ring of 'truthiness', even if its not true.

I don't "want" anything to be true. It's a well established fact fact that synthetic oil is a superior product to conventional oil. Research it yourself and you'll find many reputable sources that state exactly that. Here's one for example:

http://www.mne.psu.edu/chang/me462/syn_vs_min.pdf

Of course, whether you need synthetic oil in your car or not is another question - for most people living in mild climates, it may not make much difference over the life of the car. However, to me, not having to be concerned if I go a little longer between oil changes, getting better cold start lubrication, and keeping the engine cleaner are well worth the minor cost increase as I intend to keep the car for many years.

I'm not sure why you have such an issue with someone taking every precaution they can to enhance the longevity of their vehicle? But I'm done explaining my actions to you...
 
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