LED headlight strips as DRL

[danemania1]

Warning. Do this at your own risk. I accept no responsibility if you damage your vehicle.
This is just a reference that I did to my vehicle.
This mod will light up the LED strips as DRL while your switch is on auto. The amber lights will be off When the parking lights or headlights come on the led strip dims , when the blinker is on the amber light will flash and so will the led strip. ( at a later date I will add info on how to have the led light go out while the blinker is on.
Tools and supplies
panel tool
8mm 10mm 12 mm sockets and ratchet with extension
Phillips head screw driver
razor blade
wire 3 colors
wire ties
wire strippers and cutters
4 sets of waterproof wire connectors (something that can be disconnected and re connected)
tube of silicon
in line fuse holder and 10 amp fuse
2 SPDT relays and harness or female blade connectors 20 amp minimum ( auto parts store or ebay)
3M super 33+ electrical tape (Home Depot)
drill with bit about the size of 22 guage wire
recommended : solder and soldering iron.
I think thats it

you will need to remove the headlights and to do that you need to remove the front bumper cover
it actually comes off fairly easy.
View attachment 12063
Remove the headlights and on the bottom there is a round access panel. Turn it and remove. This will give access to the wires on the LED board. There is a harness with 3 locations and only 2 wires.
View attachment 12064
Your going to add a wire to the blank spot. I do not have access to the factory harness pins on this harness or the headlight connector so here is what to do. Drill a small hone next to the factory headlight connector just big enough to insert a wire about 22 guage. Run the wire in the light assembly and tin the end (strip the wire and coat with solder) this will give it rigidity. Unplug the 2 pos harness and insert the new wire.
View attachment 12065
Tape it and wire tie it to the other 2 wires so it doesn't pull out and re connect the wire.
View attachment 12066
On the end outside the light assembly connect half of one of the waterproof wire connectors.and then add a wire tie to the wire on the inside of the assembly to keep it from pulling out. silicon the hole you drilled to seal it. set lights aside to let the silicon dry
View attachment 12067
now inside the car you will need to remove the lower dash panel covering the wires at the fuse box you will need to run wires 3 of them from the fuse box to under the hood near the brake fluid fill. near the firewall on the drivers side.
At the fuse box you will see this harness

on the 4 pin harness the thick wires. The wire on the left (red) is BATT. Connect the in line fuse leave the fuse out for now. Connect a length of wire to the other end of the in line fuse holder.
The other 2 wires are for the left and right blinker. The one on the left is for the right blinker and the one to the right is the left blinker.
Do not use scotch lock type of wire taps. They will fail and look awful. Use wire strippers and make a cut in the insulation in 2 spots about a ¼ inch apart and using a razor blade slice between the cuts and remove the section of insulation exposing a section of bare copper. Wrap your stripped new wire around and solder and tape. If no solder just wrap tight and tape.
There is a grommet in the firewall to the left of the brake pedal. You will need to run the wires to this grommet. Using a razor blade cut a slit in the grommet at the indentation near the top. You will need to slide a snake through the grommet. A long wire tie 3ft or so (Home depot) with the end cut off works well. Keep moving is and out until you can get to the other end under the hood. Its tight in there so it may take some time. Tape the wires to the snake, put a drop of dish detergent or soap on the wire where its tapped and it will slide right through.

These will now wire to the relays. The reason for the relays is the blinker lights were wiring into are for the rear and we want to isolate them and it will also prevent any more current on the circuits. I made a little bracket to mount the relays but you can just wire tie them to a harness
View attachment rh headlight.pdf
On the bottom of the relays there are 5 tabs with numbers next to them

label the relays left and right
wire both tabs 85 to ground
wire both tabs 87 to the BATT wire you ran
tab 87a is not used
tab 86 on left relay goes to the left blinker wire you ran
tab 86 on right relay goes to the right blinker wire you ran
tab 30 on left relay goes to the left headlight
tab 30 on the right relay goes to the right headlight.
Run 2 wires from tabs 30 to the left headlight and continue the right side wire across the front of the car following existing harnesses to the right headlight.. these wires should be covered in loom and can be run under the beauty cover near the left fender. Wire tied to the hood pop cable.
now install the headlights
At the headlights you need to find pin 10 and cut it
View attachment rh headlight.pdf
On the side of the wire toward the car connect the other half of the waterproof connector you wired to the headlight and connect them together. Install another waterproof connector on the light side of the wire you cut and to the blinker wire you ran and connect them. Do this for both headlights.

Put the fuse in the fuse holder and test, be sure its bright enough for the DRL to be on .
And test, if they're not working check all your connections. You will hear the relays clicking when the blinkers are on. This is normal.
Tape up the wiring at the relays and loom or tape all exposed wiring and secure with wire ties
if for some reason you want to put it back to the way it was just reconnect the wires on pin 10 with the waterproof connectors you installed and pull the fuse out.
reassemble your car

this is the first write up Ive ever done so I hope I didn't miss anything
let me know if you have questions

 

[dougmcp]

Great write up danemania1. Reading through the post it seems pretty straight forward and complete. Nice to see someone willing to make the car their own with a few mods.
I have a Gen1 BH so it doesn't do much for me but on mine always thought if the swoopy LED panel on the headlights was brighter it would make a good DRL instead of the high beams at partial power.
Once again great job!!

 

[parisgrey]

thanks!

so if I'm following this correctly, you are running a relayed new wire from a blank rear turn signal connector to replace the existing pin 10 connection up front, and wiring the existing DRL/turn pin 10 to the currently unused DRL circuit in the headlight.

One question- is that BATT connection always hot or just with ignition? I'm entertaining looking for the +12V under the hood so I don't have to modify that power panel harness in the footwell.

 

[danemania1]

thanks!

so if I'm following this correctly, you are running a relayed new wire from a blank rear turn signal connector to replace the existing pin 10 connection up front, and wiring the existing DRL/turn pin 10 to the currently unused DRL circuit in the headlight.

One question- is that BATT connection always hot or just with ignition? I'm entertaining looking for the +12V under the hood so I don't have to modify that power panel harness in the footwell.

Yes its hot all the time. That was so the hazard lights will still work if the car is not running

 

[danemania1]

I noticed some of the pictures are not showing up. i'm not sure how to re post them. they're the ones of the headlight part being modified.

 

[Rloyola0426]

Thanks for this! I don't know how to do any of this, but I think I can print this out and take it to a shop and have them do it.

 

[parisgrey]

I ordered some delay relays for the LEDs so they'll stay off while the turn signal is blinking. i'm going to tackle this memorial day weekend, i'll try to take some photos as well.

Programmable time delay relays

 

[iSOBigD]

Just to confirm, this would make the LED strips stay on while the switch is on auto and the headlights are off, but they're still just as dim as usual right? (Not very visible in broad daylight)

 

[parisgrey]

correct on everything except brightness- they will be at the full DRL brightness, not the dim brightness when the headlights are on.

 

[parisgrey]

one last question - no hyper-fast blinking on the turn signals? is the relay enough of a load to keep them from blinking too fast?

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[iSOBigD]

So are they the same brightness as when you turn the "parking lights" on during the day? Can we see some pics of this outdoors?

 

[parisgrey]

brighter. see his post http://genesisowners.com/hyundai-genesis-forum/showthread.php?19232-(-easy)-You-want-a-LED-DRL-on-your-US-Genesis-Read-on&p=237590#post237590 complete with photo.

 

[danemania1]

There is no hyper flash

- - - Updated - - -

I'll post some pics during the day. The led strips are very bright during the day

- - - Updated - - -

I ordered some delay relays for the LEDs so they'll stay off while the turn signal is blinking. i'm going to tackle this memorial day weekend, i'll try to take some photos as well.

Programmable time delay relays

As long as the delay relays are not replacing the blinker relays. If there on just the led strip feed that will work great, same thing as the timer circuits I was going to install, I might try these delay relays instead.

 

[parisgrey]

As long as the delay relays are not replacing the blinker relays. If there on just the led strip feed that will work great, same thing as the timer circuits I was going to install, I might try these delay relays instead.

correct, just on the LED strip. i'm still going to use the SPDT relays for the amber turn signal bulbs.

 

[danemania1]

correct, just on the LED strip. i'm still going to use the SPDT relays for the amber turn signal bulbs.

After looking at those delay relays a little more I think I'll order a couple. They appear to be water resistant. They look a little easier than the timer circuits I was going to use. Nice find on those.

 

[danemania1]

So are they the same brightness as when you turn the "parking lights" on during the day? Can we see some pics of this outdoors?

this is on auto. no other lights are on except the LED strips. its hard to tell but they are just as bright as any other car that uses these as DRL



this is with the headlights are on

 

[danemania1]

Warning. Do this at your own risk. I accept no responsibility if you damage your vehicle.
This is just a reference that I did to my vehicle.
This mod will light up the LED strips as DRL while your switch is on auto. The amber lights will be off When the parking lights or headlights come on the led strip dims , when the blinker is on the amber light will flash and so will the led strip. ( at a later date I will add info on how to have the led light go out while the blinker is on.
Tools and supplies
panel tool
8mm 10mm 12 mm sockets and ratchet with extension
Phillips head screw driver
razor blade
wire 3 colors
wire ties
wire strippers and cutters
4 sets of waterproof wire connectors (something that can be disconnected and re connected)
tube of silicon
in line fuse holder and 10 amp fuse
2 SPDT relays and harness or female blade connectors 20 amp minimum ( auto parts store or ebay)
3M super 33+ electrical tape (Home Depot)
drill with bit about the size of 22 guage wire
recommended : solder and soldering iron.
I think thats it

you will need to remove the headlights and to do that you need to remove the front bumper cover
it actually comes off fairly easy.
View attachment 12063
Remove the headlights and on the bottom there is a round access panel. Turn it and remove. This will give access to the wires on the LED board. There is a harness with 3 locations and only 2 wires.
View attachment 12064
Your going to add a wire to the blank spot. I do not have access to the factory harness pins on this harness or the headlight connector so here is what to do. Drill a small hone next to the factory headlight connector just big enough to insert a wire about 22 guage. Run the wire in the light assembly and tin the end (strip the wire and coat with solder) this will give it rigidity. Unplug the 2 pos harness and insert the new wire.
View attachment 12065
Tape it and wire tie it to the other 2 wires so it doesn't pull out and re connect the wire.
View attachment 12066
On the end outside the light assembly connect half of one of the waterproof wire connectors.and then add a wire tie to the wire on the inside of the assembly to keep it from pulling out. silicon the hole you drilled to seal it. set lights aside to let the silicon dry
View attachment 12067
now inside the car you will need to remove the lower dash panel covering the wires at the fuse box you will need to run wires 3 of them from the fuse box to under the hood near the brake fluid fill. near the firewall on the drivers side.
At the fuse box you will see this harness
View attachment 12068
on the 4 pin harness the thick wires. The wire on the left (red) is BATT. Connect the in line fuse leave the fuse out for now. Connect a length of wire to the other end of the in line fuse holder.
The other 2 wires are for the left and right blinker. The one on the left is for the right blinker and the one to the right is the left blinker.
Do not use scotch lock type of wire taps. They will fail and look awful. Use wire strippers and make a cut in the insulation in 2 spots about a ¼ inch apart and using a razor blade slice between the cuts and remove the section of insulation exposing a section of bare copper. Wrap your stripped new wire around and solder and tape. If no solder just wrap tight and tape.
There is a grommet in the firewall to the left of the brake pedal. You will need to run the wires to this grommet. Using a razor blade cut a slit in the grommet at the indentation near the top. You will need to slide a snake through the grommet. A long wire tie 3ft or so (Home depot) with the end cut off works well. Keep moving is and out until you can get to the other end under the hood. Its tight in there so it may take some time. Tape the wires to the snake, put a drop of dish detergent or soap on the wire where its tapped and it will slide right through.
View attachment 12069
These will now wire to the relays. The reason for the relays is the blinker lights were wiring into are for the rear and we want to isolate them and it will also prevent any more current on the circuits. I made a little bracket to mount the relays but you can just wire tie them to a harness
View attachment 12071
On the bottom of the relays there are 5 tabs with numbers next to them
View attachment 12070
label the relays left and right
wire both tabs 85 to ground
wire both tabs 87 to the BATT wire you ran
tab 87a is not used
tab 86 on left relay goes to the left blinker wire you ran
tab 86 on right relay goes to the right blinker wire you ran
tab 30 on left relay goes to the left headlight
tab 30 on the right relay goes to the right headlight.
Run 2 wires from tabs 30 to the left headlight and continue the right side wire across the front of the car following existing harnesses to the right headlight.. these wires should be covered in loom and can be run under the beauty cover near the left fender. Wire tied to the hood pop cable.
now install the headlights
At the headlights you need to find pin 10 and cut it
View attachment 12071
On the side of the wire toward the car connect the other half of the waterproof connector you wired to the headlight and connect them together. Install another waterproof connector on the light side of the wire you cut and to the blinker wire you ran and connect them. Do this for both headlights.
View attachment 12072
Put the fuse in the fuse holder and test, be sure its bright enough for the DRL to be on .
And test, if they're not working check all your connections. You will hear the relays clicking when the blinkers are on. This is normal.
Tape up the wiring at the relays and loom or tape all exposed wiring and secure with wire ties
if for some reason you want to put it back to the way it was just reconnect the wires on pin 10 with the waterproof connectors you installed and pull the fuse out.
reassemble your car

this is the first write up Ive ever done so I hope I didn't miss anything
let me know if you have questions

missing images

 

[parisgrey]

OK, I took on the project over the weekend.

A few notes:

1. I was able to do this WITHOUT removing the front bumper. You need smaller hands, but i was able to unscrew the bottom cover off the headlight and between that and the rear cover, I was able to reach in there and disconnect the DRL harness, allowing me enough slack to add the extra pin outside. I used a wire harness from a RC car hobby shop, the wire fit right into the harness and clicked into place once you open the harness cover up. I then drilled the hole for the wire in the round access panel, leaving enough slack inside to be able to rotate the panel as needed to install/remove.

2. Do yourself a favor and order a 50-pack of the push-pin plastic plugs from eBay before you start. http://www.ebay.com/itm/361225336403 You *WILL* break at least 50% of the existing ones on the front black radiator shroud, which you need to remove to have decent access to the lights. No fancy tool can help you here, I tried. They're just very brittle.

3. I used a fuse panel mounted add-a-fuse so I wouldn't have to splice any cables in the cabin.

4. If you do buy those time delay relays I mentioned a few posts up, PROGRAM THEM WITH A 9V BATTERY AND TEST LED LIGHT BEFORE YOU PUT THEM IN THE CAR. There is no way to program them in the car. You'll thank me later. Watch the videos from the supplier.

5. I took the opportunity to replace the front amber bulbs with LEDs. I used these http://www.ebay.com/itm/232209344860 and they are brighter than stock and light up the entire reflector nicely. Note that the passenger side bulb socket is wired backwards so an LED bulb won't work without rewiring; I swapped out the pins on the harness while I was in there anyhow. No fast-blink since you're using the relays instead of flashers.

Having said all of the above, I had considerable issues programming the relays and getting everything to work; so I ended up giving up on the time delay relays and just wiring it like danemania1. Of the two time delays I received, one was faulty, wouldn't turn on at all. The other worked fine on the test bench, but didn't seem to like the load, or who knows what, because it wouldn't work in the car and made the blinker blink fast. Not sure if that's because the second relay wouldn't work, but I didn't see the full DRLs until I removed both time delay relays. The vendor is sending a replacement for the faulty unit, i might try adding a 50ohm resistor on those to see if that cures the issues with the delay timers.

 

[danemania1]

nice job. i haven't ordered the time delay relays yet , but on your experience i think ill use the timer circuit with relay. it works with the bulb on the test
bench so ill give it a try. on the plastic clips for the radiator cover. I didn't have any problems there. none of them broke. i use a straight pick or really thin screwdriver and push down the center pin till it clicks and they slide right out.

 

[parisgrey]

nice job. i haven't ordered the time delay relays yet , but on your experience i think ill use the timer circuit with relay. it works with the bulb on the test
bench so ill give it a try. on the plastic clips for the radiator cover. I didn't have any problems there. none of them broke. i use a straight pick or really thin screwdriver and push down the center pin till it clicks and they slide right out.

whoops. didn't know about the push to release on the clips. oh well.

I tried the time delay relay again with a 50w resistor between the car's signal wire (input to pin 10 on headlight) and ground. The blinker didn't hyperflash, but the DRL wouldn't turn on. I suspect the control module is doing some weird testing there. I think the delay circuit is going to have to mimic the resistance on that existing DRL circuit to work sucessfully. Or, I wonder if they're doing PWM on the DRL signal and the relay doesn't like it. Another option would be to hard wire a 12V signal to it and use the existing pin 10 as the trigger, but not sure how much power consumption these things have. Maybe i'll look for an ignition switched source.