Oil Catch Can (OCC) on 2017 G80 5.0L

[mcginnpm]

I just did a 15,000 mile service and I'm a hair shy of a total of 270ml of oil captured by the oil catch can (OCC) during that time, or an average of 1ml every 55 miles.

 

[celltech]

I should have made a bottle like yours so I get the exact amount I catch...but I just dump it back into the crankcase whenever I empty it

 

[lobsenza]

My mechanic recommended doing a cleaning of the valves. He called it a top engine clean. He has done all of my mechanical work on all of my cars since 1995 and is very fair and honest. I did the first cleaning at 13,500 miles (I probably should have done it sooner). I plan to do my next cleaning at 23,000 miles. He used to work at several dealerships and says that is what they do to clean the build up. He said doing it more frequently prevents a big build up. He also cleaned the fuel injectors at the same time and charged me $160.

I did plan on changing my engine air filters at 20k, but when I looked at them, I concluded I could go to 25k or more. This is the cleanest I have ever seen an air filter after 20,000 miles.

 

[tmf2004]

would a can of seafoam clean the valves? I have 11.5k miles on the 2015 5.0.. I like the idea of a catch can. Has the dealer said anything about that mod.. I added one to my previous 2012 Kia optima turbo and it did catch the access back oil..

Any DIY for the 5.0?

 

[Mark_888]

would a can of seafoam clean the valves?

The problem is not cleaning the valves, but getting the cleaner to the valves where the crud accumulates. On a GDI engine, the gas is injected directly into the cylinder, bypassing the valves. This contrasts with EFI, where using gasoline with decent cleaning additives (such as Techron) will keep the valves reasonably clean.

I don't think that using Seafoam in the oil crankcase will help either. But I would make sure and use a good quality synthetic oil.

- - - Updated - - -

I've read that true synthetic oils (such as Amsoil) help due to a lower NOACK volatility

Sounds like normal internet gossip about Amsoil. First of all, Amsoil makes three different "synthetic" motor oils, and only one of them is entirely Group IV or V components (aka "real" synthetic). But that motor oil is not API approved and it does not meet other Hyundai specs for the Genesis. It is also very expensive.

Mobil 1 sold in Europe (and also Mobil 1 sold in the USA for MB, etc such as 10W-40 European Formula) is also 100% Group IV or V components (real synthetic), but I would not recommend it for a Genesis, because the viscosity is too high, and it fails to meet other Hyundai specs for the Genesis.

Having used Mobil 1 for a long time, I have never had to add oil between changes for the last 20 years, so I don't think evaporation (measured by NOACK volatility) of Mobil 1 is a problem.

FWIW, Shell's Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic brand (not their regular Platinum) claims to have extremely good engine cleaning abilities. The new Pennzoil synthetics are made from natural gas.

My next vehicle s probably going to have an engine like the Toyota V6 engine mentioned earlier in this thread, that uses a combination of DGI and EFI to make sure that the back of the valves get some gasoline to keep them clean.

 

[jemanner]

My next vehicle s probably going to have an engine like the Toyota V6 engine mentioned earlier in this thread, that uses a combination of DGI and EFI to make sure that the back of the valves get some gasoline to keep them clean.

Is there any concrete data the Toyota D4S system will actually keep the intake valves clean? Yes, it does use port injection a small minority of the time, but I have yet to see where even Toyota will claim it will solve the intake valve issue. From what I can find out it was added to solve upcoming more stringent emissions requirements. As I understand it, Audi has went to a dual injection in Europe to meet emissions, but not yet in the United States, and they historically have had one of the worst struggles with intake valve deposits. It will be interesting to see what the test of time reveals with D4S. Sadly, it's all about the bottom line, and manufacturers know the vast majority of owners will not notice any issues until the warranty has passed.

I suppose one could always look to Subaru, as to my knowledge they have not yet transitioned to DI. Or, at least look for a vehicle where the intake manifold can easily be removed to do a walnut shell cleaning. Pulling the head(s) can get darned expensive!

 

[Mark_888]

Is there any concrete data the Toyota D4S system will actually keep the intake valves clean? Yes, it does use port injection a small minority of the time, but I have yet to see where even Toyota will claim it will solve the intake valve issue. From what I can find out it was added to solve upcoming more stringent emissions requirements. As I understand it, Audi has went to a dual injection in Europe to meet emissions, but not yet in the United States, and they historically have had one of the worst struggles with intake valve deposits. It will be interesting to see what the test of time reveals with D4S. Sadly, it's all about the bottom line, and manufacturers know the vast majority of owners will not notice any issues until the warranty has passed.

If you read this article, Toyota seems to claim the D-4S engine cleans the valves.
http://wardsauto.com/technology/toyota-advances-d4s-self-cleaning-feature-tacoma

Here is an excerpt from the article link above:

The automaker believes it has solved the conundrum of carbon build-up on injectors with a new self-cleaning feature for D-4S, a technology that debuted 10 years ago on the ’05 Lexus GS 350 and ’06 Lexus IS 350 and today is used in the current-gen Lexus IS, GS and RC and Scion FR-S sports car.

“What we’re doing is we have a slit on the side of our injector and we’re blowing that carbon off,” Mike Sweers, the ’16 Tacoma’s chief engineer, tells WardsAuto here during the truck’s media preview. “If we tried to use just high pressure, using just the nozzle itself, you would clean the bottom of that nozzle.

“But since the carbon grows from the outside and comes around, you would still plug up that injector,” he adds. “So by cleaning on the outside of that, we get a clean injector all the time.”

Drivers may hear the self-cleaning taking place during a hot idle, and the process could last from 10 seconds to as long as 10 minutes, depending on driving patterns and the amount of build-up on the injectors.

“When you go into a hot-idle situation, the system is going to look at the time that it ran, the number of cycles the injectors went through, the temperature of the injectors and then it goes into a self-cleaning mode,” Sweers says. “Because we have the port injection, I can continue idling the engine without having any side effects.”
He compares the technology to a self-cleaning oven, as no additives are necessary.

“You stop at a light (and) it may clean for 10 seconds, you’re going to take off and stop at another light and it’s going to clean for (another) 10 seconds,” he says, noting the engine will deliver torque when a driver wants it and shut off the cleaning mode.

The 10-minute cleaning cycle occurs during longer idling, such as in a drive-thru line.​

 

[jemanner]

If you read this article, Toyota seems to claim the D-4S engine cleans the valves.
http://wardsauto.com/technology/toyota-advances-d4s-self-cleaning-feature-tacoma

Here is an excerpt from the article link above:

The automaker believes it has solved the conundrum of carbon build-up on injectors with a new self-cleaning feature for D-4S, a technology that debuted 10 years ago on the ’05 Lexus GS 350 and ’06 Lexus IS 350 and today is used in the current-gen Lexus IS, GS and RC and Scion FR-S sports car.

“What we’re doing is we have a slit on the side of our injector and we’re blowing that carbon off,” Mike Sweers, the ’16 Tacoma’s chief engineer, tells WardsAuto here during the truck’s media preview. “If we tried to use just high pressure, using just the nozzle itself, you would clean the bottom of that nozzle.

“But since the carbon grows from the outside and comes around, you would still plug up that injector,” he adds. “So by cleaning on the outside of that, we get a clean injector all the time.”

Drivers may hear the self-cleaning taking place during a hot idle, and the process could last from 10 seconds to as long as 10 minutes, depending on driving patterns and the amount of build-up on the injectors.

“When you go into a hot-idle situation, the system is going to look at the time that it ran, the number of cycles the injectors went through, the temperature of the injectors and then it goes into a self-cleaning mode,” Sweers says. “Because we have the port injection, I can continue idling the engine without having any side effects.”
He compares the technology to a self-cleaning oven, as no additives are necessary.

“You stop at a light (and) it may clean for 10 seconds, you’re going to take off and stop at another light and it’s going to clean for (another) 10 seconds,” he says, noting the engine will deliver torque when a driver wants it and shut off the cleaning mode.

The 10-minute cleaning cycle occurs during longer idling, such as in a drive-thru line.​

Thank you much Mark! Great news...

 

[Mark_888]

After reading the above Toyota article again, it talks about self-cleaning of the injectors, but does not mention valves. So I am not sure what that means with regard to possible carbon build up on the valves.

 

[jemanner]

After reading the above Toyota article again, it talks about self-cleaning of the injectors, but does not mention valves. So I am not sure what that means with regard to possible carbon build up on the valves.

Rats! You are correct... I did not read it close enough either... Virtually all vehicles (with one manufacturer exception I am aware of, Subaru) are DI. So, when advising our kids and grandkids as to a vehicle purchase, and presuming not a Subie, at least get one with the intake manifold on the front side of the engine. (Presuming a sideways-mounted 4-banger).

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[Mark_888]

Rats! You are correct... I did not read it close enough either... Virtually all vehicles (with one manufacturer exception I am aware of, Subaru) are DI. So, when advising our kids and grandkids as to a vehicle purchase, and presuming not a Subie, at least get one with the intake manifold on the front side of the engine. (Presuming a sideways-mounted 4-banger).

I would not rule out the possibility that the Toyota engine does spray gas on the back side of the intake valves to keep carbon buildup from happening (assuming the use of a good quality gas with proper levels of detergents). It is just that they don't specifically mention that in the article.

 

[glennk]

Would be interested to see what the resolution from Hyundai will be....maybe the coconut shell shot (from BMW) will be the preferred method.

 

[mcginnpm]

Has the dealer said anything about that mod?

I remove the whole contraption before I take it in to the dealer. I built it specifically for easy removal and re-installation. (see my original postings at the top for the layout, parts, etc.)

 

[Seejay]

So far, the "Italian tune up" method has worked for me, but I shouldn't have to do that.
Some manufacturers have begun putting a throttle body injector for cold starts and to clean the intake valves. I think it's too soon to see how that will pan out.

 

[mcginnpm]

I just did my 22500 mi service and drained my OCC (oil catch can) again.

I've captured 420 ml thus far, an average of 1 ml every 53.6 miles.

I'm happy that stuff isn't baked onto my inlet valves.

 

[Isnik0802]

Hey guys you do know there is another PCV on the right side. I just got my mishimoto baffled oil catch cans back from powder coat. So I'll post up pics when I get to the install.

 

[Taranis]

I got around to painting it up this weekend. See the attached photo. Post #1 has the "before" photos.

Did you paint the foam covers as well in the rear? if so what paint did you use

 

[masont]

So would this work for the 3.8?

 

[bubbaG80Sport]

I added a Mishimoto MMBCC-MSTWO-BK OCC to my 2018 G80 3.3TT March 2018 at 3.5K Miles. During subsequent 5K miles (8.5K odoometer reading) I've captured about 1.0 Fluid ounces/ 30 ml of oil. I'll post pictures and parts of the install when I get time. I'm considering adding a stainless steel mesh to the can to help catch more oil (i.e. Scotchbrite stainless steel scrubber).

Questions for forum:
Q1) How much oil are people catching and what engine (x Fluid ounces / y miles)?
Q2) Thoughts on adding mesh to the OCC to catch more oil?

 

[bubbaG80Sport]

I pulled OCC collection results from this thread and calculated the following.

Miles    ml    ml/ 500 miles    fl-oz/500 miles    miles/1 ml    miles/1 fl-oz
1600     30        9.4               0.3              53.3          1577.3
2500     60       12.0               0.4              41.7          1232.2
10000   200       10.0               0.3              50.0          1478.7
15000   270        9.0               0.3              55.6          1643.0
22500   420        9.3               0.3              53.6          1584.3
5000     30        3.0               0.1              166.7         4928.9   My (bubbaG80Sport) results
     Average       8.8               0.3              70.1          2074.1

My earlier report of 1.0 Fluid ounces/ 30 ml of oil for 5K miles seems a lower collection rate than others have reported. I'll review my notes when I get home.