Brake and Rotor Replacement Cost

[niteflite]

Hi. Can someone tel me how much realistically it is to get one set of brakes and rotors replaced - parts and labor? At the dealer?

Also, are hyunda brakes and rotors doable as a DIY? i am no mechanic by any means but have some tools and am willing to buy other necessary tools if it will save me hundreds of dollars.

 

[Mark_888]

I would call around and get quotes from a dealer. In most cases you should only need new pads, and not new rotors. In some cases you may need the rotors "turned," but usually not. Even if they recommend turning the rotors (which means taking off a thin layer on a lathe), I would be very hesitant to do have it done, because sometimes they don't do it right and the rotor becomes warped. However, if you can feel the rotors are warped now, that might an indication they need to be turned.

Brakes are not something you want to mess around with unless you know what you are doing, and if they need to flush the brake fluid, the procedure on the Genesis is not straight forward.

I have never had to replace rear pads on a car I have owned, even when I drove a car 80,000 miles. The fronts take the brunt of the wear.

 

[landtuna]

You will also note that there are many different types of pads. I would stick with a pad that is comparable to the OEM variety even though the brand name might not be the same. It does make a difference to the wear and stopping power and you don't want to lose anything compared to stock.

Most pad replacements are pretty simple but having said that please note that I personally have never done any Hyundai brakes before. Here is the general procedure:

1. With the car sitting on the ground loosen the lug nuts slightly.
2. Raise the car (or just the front or rear as necessary) to take the tires off the ground.
3. Remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
4. Pry the calipers apart with something that will NOT damage the brake assembly or rotor. You may need to remove a retaining bolt or wire to do this. You don't need any more clearance than that of the width of the new pad. Sometimes it is easier to unbolt the caliper from the mounting bracket to work on it but don't do this unless necessary.
5. Slide the old pads out noting which direction they face.
6. Slide the new pads in. It may be necessary to force the calipers apart a bit more to allow the pads to slide in - one on each side of the rotor. The friction pad must face the rotor.
7. If you have removed the caliper from its mounting, replace it now.
8. While you turn the wheel by grabbing the lugs have someone step on the brake inside the car to ensure the pads contact the rotor and will stop the wheel. Do NOT step on the brake unless you are certain both pads are properly seated and in alignment with the rotor.
Assuming all is well so far re-mount the wheel and bring the lug nuts to a finger tight position. You should not be able to feel any looseness by moving the tire/wheel from side to side but the lug nuts should not be torqued at this time.
9. Repeat this procedure on all the other brake calipers.
10. When all the wheels have been serviced then tighten all the lug nuts IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE to the proper torque or something close to it.
11. Lower the car and re-check the lug nut torque on each wheel.
12. After about 25 miles or so recheck the lug nut torque on each wheel. Maintain the proper tightening sequence.

NOTE: Do not remove the cap on the brake reservoir during this procedure. It is possible to blow brake fluid all over the engine should you open the caliper too wide. I would recommend checking it before you begin (taking care not to get dirt or moisture inside the reservoir) and again after you finish the pad R&R ensuring it is topped off to the recommended level with the proper fluid type. Also, when testing your work move the vehicle slowly into an area where it will not hit anything should the brakes not operate properly. It might be necessary to pump them several times for proper operation.

Also, brake fluid is a disaster on paint so ensure it is not splashed on painted surfaces and wipe clean if so. Always ensure the reservoir is properly capped tightly as well as the bottle it came from. Do not mix fluid types.

If you somehow get dirt or moisture inside the reservoir take the vehicle to a shop that can vacuum out the old fluid and replace it. Do not try this unless you have the proper equipment and a vacuum for this purpose.

 

[landtuna]

One more thing:

If you are replacing pads on a vehicle with many miles or you feel a "pumping" sensation when you apply the brakes you should have the rotors checked for wear. Slide the rotors off the lugs and take them to a brake or parts store and have them checked for thickness. Hyundai will have a minimum thickness specified and if the rotors are close to or are thinner than this number you need new rotors. Replace with the same type as OEM as with pads there are several major types.

 

[Mark_888]

If all you need are front pads, then it is unlikely you will save hundreds of dollars doing it yourself. It doesn't cost that much to have the front pads replaced. Only use OEM pads, or you will probably regret it (brakes may not work as well, or may squeak).

Go to all the Hyundai dealer websites in your area and check their service specials or coupons. I went to my dealer website and they are currently offering a $50 off coupon special on brake pad replacement.

 

[SixFootSix]

Landtuna provided excellent instructions. I have done the drakes on an Audi A6 and the procedure on the fronts is very similar. If you have not done done the process before, then realize that at some points it may require a second set of hands, or more likely a foot to gently press the brake when bleeding the line.

It's not the type of project that you can easily give up and then safely drive the car to a repair shop. I almost reached the breaking point when one of the brake pistons would not completely compress. I took s 30 minute break and when I tried again it finally compressed enough that the pad would not drag on the disc. That saved my a flatbed tow truck charge.

Once done, you do have a feeling of victory, and can enjoy the cost savings.

 

[kn5owa]

Check out a few YouTube videos for your make & model

Also, a specialized tool for pushing disk brake pistons home is an asset - Ebay has a few - otherwise you have to use a 6 in. C clamp - a little unwieldy.

 

[niteflite]

Well, here's the catch. When i was at the dealer two weeks ago i asked if they can take a look at the rotors. they said they can do a visual. they didn't bother to tell me what the results were of the visual inspection or if they looked at it at all. he did tell me though that turning the rotors is costly and i might as well replace the rotors considering the costs.

the brake pads themselves supposedly have life left...so i'm thinking the vibrating/pulsating and thud thud thud sounds is the rotors and not the brakes. but i'm hoping if i'm doing the work mysef, as long as i have the car lifted, i might as well do the rotors and brakes.

can the vibration and sound be due to feathered tires when braking? i'd guess not. there's also general noise even when i'm not braking - maybe due to the feathered tires. it's a cyclical sound that speeds up and down with the speed of the car. is it the feathered tires making the noise or is it the alignment? i guess what i'm trying to ask is if i go get an alignment and keep the same tires, will the noise go away.

all in all, this car's been frustrating:
- loud click in 1st when starting from 0 that can't be replicated when i'm on test drive with mechanic
- loud click at cold start putting car in reverse
- a big unsteady bounce and creak at cold start going from reverse to drive
- all around noise when moving
- a wobbly feel and vibrating and noise when braking

now, the push button lock on the door handle doesn't work some of the time. i need to keep pushing the button or use the remote. and it's not the battery on the remote either.

 

[kn5owa]

Vibration on braking, in my opinion, is rotors. Nowadays, for a variety of reasons, they probably would replace them. Turning rotors takes a a small amount of skill - non- existent these days. So, they just replace them with chinese stuff.

 

[landtuna]

Well, here's the catch...

A piece of advice - never, ever take chances with your brakes. The relatively small cost of new pads and rotors (or having them turned) is far less than you will spend if you can't stop in time (not even considering the personal injuries you may inflict upon yourself or others).

A feathered tire can easily be seen and/or felt by lightly touching the tire on both inside and outside of the tread and rubbing. The effects will be more revealing at slow speeds but pulsing brake pedal is usually a sign of a warped rotor. Note that feathering can be caused by out of alignment and/or incorrect tire pressure. Don't go by just the dash light - check each tire at least every two weeks for proper pressure and especially when the seasons change.

If you do get a brake job break in the brakes slowly. No high speed stops and try not to heat them up for the first 50 miles or so. Easy does it and your new pads and rotors will last a lot longer.

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[Ambush]

Please look at my post as I have replaced my front/rear rotors and pads.
It is not a complicated process at all and I would NOT let the dealer do it as they are EXTREMELY overpriced.

Since replacing, I have not had any issues with braking. They seem to bite nicely. I am still in my break in period and I must say I am impressed.

If you are mechanically inclined, just take a day or 1/2 of a day and just do it.

That is my PSA for today

-Ambush

 

[flashnc]

Hey guys, I’m trying to replace pads and rotors on 2014 genesis sedan 3.8 - what is the correct hex socket size for the caliper bolts? Also any tricks for getting them loose?

 

[shahhere]

I changed out all the rotors on the car and bought the following Powerstop Drilled and Slotted set last year around same time.

Powerstop Brake Disc and Pad Kits 4-Wheel Set Front & Rear New K5845 | eBay

Paid $320 after ebay's 10/15% coupon so wasnt a bad price.

After 1 year, I feel like the brakes arent all that great? Still kinda slides up when braking.....its an heavy car but still I feel like I need a bigger bite.

I have a 2012 3.8.

Shahhere

 

[jfwpa]

Just had front brake pads replaced, and rotors machined/turned for $310 including labor this morning at my Hyundai dealer (who opted not to take the Genesis franchise) on my 2009 Genesis 4.6 with 35,000 miles.

 

[scottdk]

Just had front brake pads replaced, and rotors machined/turned for $310 including labor this morning at my Hyundai dealer (who opted not to take the Genesis franchise) on my 2009 Genesis 4.6 with 35,000 miles.

Pads at 35,000 miles? What happened, LOL? Many 4.6 owners seem to get in the 100,000+ range before any brake work. I had half pad life remaining at around 55,000 miles and I gave the stock brakes hell frequently.

 

[EdP]

Pads at 35,000 miles? What happened, LOL? Many 4.6 owners seem to get in the 100,000+ range before any brake work. I had half pad life remaining at around 55,000 miles and I gave the stock brakes hell frequently.

Depends on where you live and drive. When I lived in Philadelphia there was a stop sign on most every corner. If you drive in the city a lot you'd never get 35K out of brakes. So you stop maybe 5 times a mile while out west you can go 150 miles and not touch the brakes.

 

[shahhere]

Depends on where you live and drive. When I lived in Philadelphia there was a stop sign on most every corner. If you drive in the city a lot you'd never get 35K out of brakes. So you stop maybe 5 times a mile while out west you can go 150 miles and not touch the brakes.

Philly, eh? I am in the Burbs in Montgomery County .

I changed my brakes last year after an inspection that deemed them to be just near passing at around 46k miles. My driving was a lot of local suburban roads and highway miles but with a lot of traffic (stop and go) along with multiple drivers who have varying driving habits.

Shahhere

 

[EdP]

Philly, eh? I am in the Burbs in Montgomery County .

I changed my brakes last year after an inspection that deemed them to be just near passing at around 46k miles. My driving was a lot of local suburban roads and highway miles but with a lot of traffic (stop and go) along with multiple drivers who have varying driving habits.

Shahhere

Lived in Philly, worked in Willow Grove for 11 years. Side streets in Philly had a stop sign on most every corner and even the main streets had traffic lights and stop & go at busy times. Really tough on brakes. Actually, pretty tough on many parts of a car as many are short trips and poorly maintained streets.

 

[jfwpa]

Pads at 35,000 miles? What happened, LOL? Many 4.6 owners seem to get in the 100,000+ range before any brake work. I had half pad life remaining at around 55,000 miles and I gave the stock brakes hell frequently.

Clarification: Because I was feeling a 'shudder' of sorts when braking from high speeds when slowing down on exit ramps, I wanted the brakes checked. Speaking to my technician after he drove the car, pulled the wheels and inspected the brake system, he found that the front pads, while needing a good cleaning, were just under 5/32 and the rotors required machining/turning due to relatively minor unevenness. New pads start at 12/32, and PA law requires replacement at 2/32. So although I still had considerable pad life left, probably enough to make to 50K miles or so, I chose to replace them while the rotor work was being done. While I am very gentle on my cars, I do live in the city, with lots of stop-and-go driving (which drives me crazy!). For comparison, my previous Lexus LS400 required front pad replacement at 55K miles (the service manager told me he never saw any customer get that many miles out of their original pads), while my Mercedes-Benz 500SL before that required front pad replacement at just under 30K miles. I personally have never heard of anyone getting 100+K miles out of front brake pads. That would be amazing!

 

[Shady_panda]

Just had front brake pads replaced, and rotors machined/turned for $310 including labor this morning at my Hyundai dealer (who opted not to take the Genesis franchise) on my 2009 Genesis 4.6 with 35,000 miles.

why are you taking to dealership for that? probably cheaper hire a local mechanic. One of my known mechanic agreed to replaced all 4 rotors and pads, change the Drive belt to include the pulley for $200, parts of course you gotta buy but new part over machined.