2015 Genesis Sedan emissions not ready after dead battery

[PeriSoft]

The only way to re-manufacture them is to have access to the original (Bosch?) ROMs to with specialized jigs to flash them back to factory firmware. Basically not happening for the same reason there aren't any tunes for them.

Yeah, that makes sense. I saw a TSB that jibes with that.

So, if I pull a battery terminal and drive it, and it's still AFU, I need to figure out what to do. Are you aware of any other reason this might occur? Say, a sensor failure at the time of the original reset that's preventing stuff from reading ready instead of just failing? I don't want to drop 1500 smackers on an ECM only to find out that the new one won't ready-up either!

 

[pmckechnie]

PeriSoft

I have never worked on a Genesis emissions system but have worked on 1000's of domestic, Japan cars and some Euro cars. All brands have to pass the US specs so maybe I will see something and maybe not. I retired about 8 years ago and things have changed.

I a'm going to help you if I can but first, I need a little bit of information not yet given. Which monitors are not ready?
To explain how the ready monitors work, a series of test that take place with different times and conditions. For instance the test may have to start with a cold engine, accelerate to X speed, slow down to X speed, Engine temperature be up 50 or more degrees all with in a time of 5 min or less. In other words, it is not a simple thing like what sensor will cause 4 ready monitors to not set. I know all this sounds crazy but that is how some of the monitors may work.
So first, we need to know which monitors are not ready. Then maybe some one can help. A scan tool should be able to tell which are ready and which are not ready.
Keep in mind, any time power is removed from the ECU, or it is reset for some reason, all the ready monitors are reset and the testing has to start all over again.
Could you give some more information?

 

[PeriSoft]

pmckechnie,

Catalyst, EVAP, O2, and EGR are reading Not Ready.

 

[pmckechnie]

If I was working on this problem, I would start by checking the engine temperature using a scan tool. If the engine doesn't get up to somewhere around 150 deg or more than these ready monitors will not run.
The engine has 2 or more temp sensors. One for the gauge and the other for the ECM. We need to ECM temp reading.

 

[PeriSoft]

If I was working on this problem, I would start by checking the engine temperature using a scan tool. If the engine doesn't get up to somewhere around 150 deg or more than these ready monitors will not run.
The engine has 2 or more temp sensors. One for the gauge and the other for the ECM. We need to ECM temp reading.

An ECM/gauge read mismatch or a busted ECM sensor wouldn't throw a code?

 

[PeriSoft]

By the way, I checked the manual just for grins, and I followed the prescribed jump start procedure to a tee.

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

By the way, I checked the manual just for grins, and I followed the prescribed jump start procedure to a tee.

I had some crazy problems arise from me jump starting other people, and that was with a car with way less computers/ electronics.

 

[PeriSoft]

I had some crazy problems arise from me jump starting other people, and that was with a car with way less computers/ electronics.

To an extent, "more electronics" shouldn't mean "more delicate". Back in the early '80s there were 20 different ways you could blow the snot out of a desktop PC - turn on the monitor second instead of first, fail to park the hard disk before shutting down, touch things in the wrong order. Now you can damn near drop-kick them off your desk across a wool rug in January without running much risk. EEs know how to protect stuff and isolate it, and the techniques for doing so are cheaper and more ubiquitous. Just because it has "more electronics" shouldn't make it more vulnerable to being blown up when jump started per the manual procedure; in reality it should make it less so.

 

[kocyk123]

I had some crazy problems arise from me jump starting other people, and that was with a car with way less computers/ electronics.

Interesting. I had to jump start my Genny once and I have jump started multiple cars with my Genny and never had a problem. I always followed the correct order of plugging in the jumper cables. I recently jump started my riding lawn mower about 4 - 5 times lol...

However, I remember jump starting someone with my 2007 Audi A6 4.2 V8 and I lost my radio. I took it for a long drive, came back home, turned it off, turned it back on and finally radio and display came back on. Never jump started anyone with that Audi ever again.

 

[pmckechnie]

I can't answer that question. I don't recall any car that compared the two sensors and set error codes if they were different. I can just say that if there was no check engine light, I would start by checking the engine temp. If it was low I would run the engine long enough to make it come up to operating temp. If it was already up to temp I would turn the engine off and let it cool off and make sure the temp reading goes down.
All of these ready monitors will run the test when it sees a low engine temp and then increase. ECU sees the low temp and starts the test. It does its thing and when the temp gets to somewhere around normal running temp. If the reading it is getting from other sensors are still in the range they should be in it turns the ready monitor on for that test. If the test never runs for some reason, or doesn't finish, the monitor is not set on. These ready monitor test don't do anything else. It doesn't set any error codes, they are turned on by other test. The ECM is a multi process computer and is doing a lot of things at one time. It runs the engine, it checks for problems with the operation of the engine, It makes sure the engine is running efficiently, etc. At the same time it is checking to make sure the readiness monitors are set and if not it will run the test for the monitor that is not ready. The monitors are only used for inspections.

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[Kraig Wilkinson]

To an extent, "more electronics" shouldn't mean "more delicate". Back in the early '80s there were 20 different ways you could blow the snot out of a desktop PC - turn on the monitor second instead of first, fail to park the hard disk before shutting down, touch things in the wrong order. Now you can damn near drop-kick them off your desk across a wool rug in January without running much risk. EEs know how to protect stuff and isolate it, and the techniques for doing so are cheaper and more ubiquitous. Just because it has "more electronics" shouldn't make it more vulnerable to being blown up when jump started per the manual procedure; in reality it should make it less so.

I could not agree more with you. I would say more often than not jump starting a vehicle will go without any problems. Like Suburbazine was talking about the voltage spike is what will get you . Not saying that is what happened to your car, it's just something to ponder. I truly hope you get it figured out. The problem you describe sounds like a nightmare !

 

[Suburbazine]

An ECM/gauge read mismatch or a busted ECM sensor wouldn't throw a code?

99% of the time, it would. Usually under circuit/range performance triggered by not reaching a certain temperature in a certain number of minutes. There's a huge number of failsafes in place for circuit and sensor performance, to the tune of nearly 4000 codes. However, all of these diagnostic runs base themselves on a "guaranteed" component (internal ECM circuitry) and although the ECM has it's own internal diagnostics it cannot self-diagnose most of it's own input/output circuitry. Some cars run split ECMs which can fault-check each other to an extent.

 

[PeriSoft]

I tried a battery disconnect for 15 mins; trip meter and mileage reset but the seat memory didn't, and the code readiness was the same after the disconnect as it was before. I don't know if more than four things read 'not ready' on a 'clean' restart, so if anyone knows so I know whether it really reset stuff that'd be helpful!

 

[Suburbazine]

I tried a battery disconnect for 15 mins; trip meter and mileage reset but the seat memory didn't, and the code readiness was the same after the disconnect as it was before. I don't know if more than four things read 'not ready' on a 'clean' restart, so if anyone knows so I know whether it really reset stuff that'd be helpful!

You got the reset done correctly. Some systems can retain settings without power.

 

[PeriSoft]

You got the reset done correctly. Some systems can retain settings without power.

Thanks, I wasn't sure what aspects of the settings are retained. Thing is I could have sworn that the seat settings went away after I jumped it before. Hmm.

 

[RyanB]

I have had my battery disconnected for days at a time on my Genesis and the radio and seat setting were always still saved.

 

[Gfrim]

Had the same issue. ECU had to be replaced and car had to be driven for 100 miles before emission systems showed ready.
It was covered under warranty for me but the invoice said it was $2200 repair.

 

[PeriSoft]

Here's a fun update. I figured I'd take the car to the dealer and see what they came up with on their own. I told them my position (that the failure likely occurred pre-warranty-expiration and only became visible when I needed to get the car inspected) and they seemed to agree. They said they'd contact Hyundai to authorize any fixes and would let me know if there was anything that wasn't covered, but said that they felt it was likely that anything aside from external damage would be. They gave me a 2019 G80 (the second time I've gotten that car as a loaner - it remembered my phone) and sent me on my way.

That was almost a month ago. I've gotten a couple of updates wherein Hyundai's tech-line people told them to try various stuff (resets, an oil filter change as they suspected an aftermarket filter might have slightly changed the oil pressure in the system and freaked out the ECM), none of which they charged me for.

Today they called me and said that they'd given up and want to know if, in theory, I'd accept them buying back the car. I told them what any rational person would tell them, which is that it depends what the numbers are. It was the service manager who called me, so he said he'd send it over to management and they'd be in touch.

So that'll be an interesting call.

They didn't even bring up the possibility of the ECM/ECU being the problem component. I didn't suggest it, since I want them to make the first move. My gut feeling is that they may know the ECM needs to be changed, and they're going to feel me out to see if I'll accept a situation that makes an end result for them that's cheaper than changing the ECM under warranty, and if/when I reject that, they'll suddenly realize that changing the ECM might fix it. The other possibility is that Hyundai corporate told 'em they needed to change the ECM and that they wouldn't cover it, and rather than come to me with a $2200 bill when they assured me previously that the issue would be covered, they want to mask the cost by switching me into another car.

Either way, it makes my life more exciting in a way I am particularly not pleased to have it made right now. That dealer does have a whole passel of lot-poison G70s in a small college town where nobody drives anything but sub-$30k crossovers, though. Maybe they'll make me an offer I can't refuse.

 

[EdP]

Here's a fun update. I figured I'd take the car to the dealer and see what they came up with on their own. I told them my position (that the failure likely occurred pre-warranty-expiration and only became visible when I needed to get the car inspected) and they seemed to agree. They said they'd contact Hyundai to authorize any fixes and would let me know if there was anything that wasn't covered, but said that they felt it was likely that anything aside from external damage would be. They gave me a 2019 G80 (the second time I've gotten that car as a loaner - it remembered my phone) and sent me on my way.

That was almost a month ago. I've gotten a couple of updates wherein Hyundai's tech-line people told them to try various stuff (resets, an oil filter change as they suspected an aftermarket filter might have slightly changed the oil pressure in the system and freaked out the ECM), none of which they charged me for.

Today they called me and said that they'd given up and want to know if, in theory, I'd accept them buying back the car. I told them what any rational person would tell them, which is that it depends what the numbers are. It was the service manager who called me, so he said he'd send it over to management and they'd be in touch.

So that'll be an interesting call.

They didn't even bring up the possibility of the ECM/ECU being the problem component. I didn't suggest it, since I want them to make the first move. My gut feeling is that they may know the ECM needs to be changed, and they're going to feel me out to see if I'll accept a situation that makes an end result for them that's cheaper than changing the ECM under warranty, and if/when I reject that, they'll suddenly realize that changing the ECM might fix it. The other possibility is that Hyundai corporate told 'em they needed to change the ECM and that they wouldn't cover it, and rather than come to me with a $2200 bill when they assured me previously that the issue would be covered, they want to mask the cost by switching me into another car.

Either way, it makes my life more exciting in a way I am particularly not pleased to have it made right now. That dealer does have a whole passel of lot-poison G70s in a small college town where nobody drives anything but sub-$30k crossovers, though. Maybe they'll make me an offer I can't refuse.

Nice that they are taking responsibility. The buy back sounds good if the numbers are right but you know you will be putting some money out. Good luck, hope you get the deal of lifetime.

 

[PeriSoft]

Nice that they are taking responsibility. The buy back sounds good if the numbers are right but you know you will be putting some money out. Good luck, hope you get the deal of lifetime.

Yeah. I'm ok spending money, but I need to be made whole, including intangibles - before this happened I had a car whose history I knew with a certain value. Replacing only that value (swapping to a like-for-like Genesis) doesn't put me back in the position if have been in if Hyundai had been able to fix the car, because I'll have a car with the same mileage but an unknown history. If I'd wanted that I could have bought an older car to begin with.

So they need to compensate me for that value if they want me to accept switching to a different car. Unfortunately for them, even paying off my note won't do that, because there are no longer equivalent vehicles for the price I paid when I got mine. If they didn't want to be in this situation they shouldn't have given me such a good deal on this one in the first place.

I see two possible outcomes: One is that they're so desperate for good vibes and customer loyalty that they'll eat a bunch of money to put me in a totally new car. The more likely one is that there will be a fight over the value of intangibles and a grudging ECM swap. This dealer has always treated me well, even though they've been a bit disorganized, so we'll see how it goes. But the fact that they started this by admitting that they can't fix my car and begging me to consider an alternative doesn't give them a particularly strong opening negotiating position. If they try to railroad me, a dim view will be taken.