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GDI reliability

Yep... Afraid so.. Koreans do not understand loyalty and long term customer service. Make good products, then run.. Same to TV and other electronics. The dealers have to deal with the chaos. Same for the cars. Hyundai is losing market share this year, so is KIA. After climbing when they stepped up their game. Why? They do not out the effort in the branding experience and connection with their customers.

BTW, many if the offshore folks are that way. Some are better. As an example, why Wouk anyone buy a VW or Audi unless they felt like being part of a family. Repairs, poor long term engineering, and overpriced. However, they promote the brand as a connected experience. People believe it.

In the meantime, I will enjoy the great car as it is. As long as info not have to take it in for service all the time.
I am not sure we can place the blame on Koreans. The original 2009 suspension for the US version of the Genesis sedan was tuned in the USA specifically for the American market at their Southern California test and research facility. When there were problems and many complaints about the early 2009 Genesis sedan suspension, Hyundai made some minor changes in the middle of the 2009 Model Year, and more extensive changes starting in 2010 (and then more changes in 2012).

After the 2010 suspension changes came out, several 2009 owners wrote to Hyundai Motor America (HMA) and asked for assistance in making the 2010 suspension changes to the their 2009 models. Selling the parts at cost would have been nice, but even providing customers with info on which parts to change (at the customers own expense) would have been appreciated. HMA refused both requests, and told customers in 2010 that if people did not like their 2009 suspension, the should trade their 2009 in for 2010. Some of us figured out how to make the changes ourselves (and did so) with no help from HMA. It is very hard to forget this kind of arrogance from an auto manufacturer.
 
Us usaa the most expedient remedy is the Italian Tune-up: Bury the tach!

I like your remedy for carbon build-up Medusa... Hammer down... :)
 
Ok-- so cut to chase - which oil best for 3.8/5.0?
 
The oil may have very little to do with the inherent carbon/sot intake valve issue, but since you asked . . . I have an early 5.0 (the GDI engine most considered to have oil-burning issues) and I am burning 1/2 quart/7,500 miles using 5-30 Pennzoil Ultra or Mobil 1 Extended Performance (when I don't plan well enough to get the Ultra).


Good oil is important, as is good gas, but we won't know if intake valve cleaning should be a regular maintenance requirement necessary until Hyundai tells, us or valvetrains begin to disintegrate at 100,000 miles.
 
When I get a chance, I will post my oil analysis. In short, however, the TDN was at 3.3 after about 6000 miles with Mobil 1 5w-30. This means the oil would easily go 7500 miles between changes.

The aluminum # was higher than normal, but this oil was in from 1800 miles to 7,800 miles. We'll see what it as at when 15,000 mile rolls around.
 
When I get a chance, I will post my oil analysis. In short, however, the TDN was at 3.3 after about 6000 miles with Mobil 1 5w-30. This means the oil would easily go 7500 miles between changes.

The aluminum # was higher than normal, but this oil was in from 1800 miles to 7,800 miles. We'll see what it as at when 15,000 mile rolls around.
An oil analysis is very good for determining how long an oil will last (viscosity, TBN, etc). This is especially true for fleet use, where one would only do an analysis on a small sample of vehicles to cost justify the expense of the analysis.

An oil analysis of metals, chemicals etc is not necessarily a good indicator of engine wear because some oils hold metals, chemicals, etc in suspension better than others. So one might draw exactly the opposite conclusion from the correct one just by judging the amount of metals, etc in the oil from an oil analysis. The best way to determine engine wear is with an engine tear-down.
 
Hey
Was wondering for quite a while about this since Hyundai genesis line is starting to change the engine into 3.8 and 5.0 as GDI only. I never had GDI engine or diesel car so really limited by information heard from others. If any of you have in depth knowledge about this technology please share. Will there be any additional problems in the long run? Any previous GDI engines that showed consistant reliability problems? Does the oil change have to be done frequently like diesel cars? What does average Joe have to know before he/she sets foot on GDI engine cars?(except the fact you get small mpg boost)

If you combine previous GDI engine reliability, what are your thoughts,though speculative, about added maintenence and precautions?
Hi lovely it’s a great car!!!
 
An Oil Catch Can is a great investment for our Hyundai GDI engines. They are cheap - easy to install - and will add countless miles. Not too mention you will get rid of that white smoke cloud during hard acceleration. I bought a high grade aluminum can on ebay for about 40$, and installed it on my 12 RSpec about 25k ago. She now has 150k and runs like a wild hippo everyday all day. Took about 1hr to install - and that is because Im picky and pay attention to every little detail. Perhaps the best upgrade so far, I couldnt live without it. RSpec with giant K&N and custom cold induction box, Flowmaster custom exhaust, and Brembo brakes from an Rspec coupe.
 
An Oil Catch Can is a great investment for our Hyundai GDI engines. They are cheap - easy to install - and will add countless miles. Not too mention you will get rid of that white smoke cloud during hard acceleration. I bought a high grade aluminum can on ebay for about 40$, and installed it on my 12 RSpec about 25k ago. She now has 150k and runs like a wild hippo everyday all day. Took about 1hr to install - and that is because Im picky and pay attention to every little detail. Perhaps the best upgrade so far, I couldnt live without it. RSpec with giant K&N and custom cold induction box, Flowmaster custom exhaust, and Brembo brakes from an Rspec coupe.
Curious. How much gunk do you catch in the can?
 
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Can was a little over half full last oil change - So in 7k miles it sucked up about a cup , give or take.
So, one less cup of gunk to get on the intake valves and such. That's good for sure, but the question I have is how close to all of it was that? In other words, was that cup all of the contaminates, half of them, or 1% percent of them. I'm sure it wasn't 100%, but also it probably was well above 1%. Have any controlled studies been done to determine exactly how much is being caught? Are there any design differences with the different cans to make some catch noticeably more than others?
 
So, one less cup of gunk to get on the intake valves and such. That's good for sure, but the question I have is how close to all of it was that? In other words, was that cup all of the contaminates, half of them, or 1% percent of them. I'm sure it wasn't 100%, but also it probably was well above 1%. Have any controlled studies been done to determine exactly how much is being caught? Are there any design differences with the different cans to make some catch noticeably more than others?
Thats a great thought provoking question ; Ive wondered that myself. IMO, its def not 100%, but I gotta believe its at least 30-50%. I have no controlled study to prove it 🙂 BUT - Beside the obvious knowledge of how the gdi isnt able to clean its own valves, the biggest reason I decided to try the can was that in the past whenever I removed the air intake duct, there was always a good puddle of oil underneath the throttle body butterfly. After cleaning it up, it would be back hundreds of miles later. I have not seen it since the catch can install. If you rub your finger across the bottom of the throttle body, ofc youll will get a fine film of oil on your finger. Lesser of the evils I reckon.
As far as can design, I looked at and researched many - but in the end I wasnt willing to pay 150-200$ for a 'true performance' model. Through all of them I just really cant see a difference... its a can that catches oil, I think an empty beer can would probably work if you sealed it proper.
I think the most important thing is to install the can using the shortest hose routing possible. Its all about location. The further the distance, the less pressure and vac.
 
Thats a great thought provoking question ; Ive wondered that myself. IMO, its def not 100%, but I gotta believe its at least 30-50%. I have no controlled study to prove it 🙂 BUT - Beside the obvious knowledge of how the gdi isnt able to clean its own valves, the biggest reason I decided to try the can was that in the past whenever I removed the air intake duct, there was always a good puddle of oil underneath the throttle body butterfly. After cleaning it up, it would be back hundreds of miles later. I have not seen it since the catch can install.
Your evidence is only anecdotal but is still compelling. Spread that cup that you did catch and paint it on the valve train and you have a mess.

Cost is a factor but it seems like it should be built in at the factory on GDI engines.
 
Your evidence is only anecdotal but is still compelling. Spread that cup that you did catch and paint it on the valve train and you have a mess.

Cost is a factor but it seems like it should be built in at the factory on GDI engines.
Agreed. Once upon a time there was no such thing as a coolant overflow jug...and now its part of the design.
 
Agreed. Once upon a time there was no such thing as a coolant overflow jug...and now its part of the design.
I suspect that a big factor keeping this from being a factory part is what to do with the somewhat toxic fluid that it collects.
I had a 2002 BMW that had something close to a factory catch can. It had some valves and a hose that connected to the base of the dipstick tube. I'm pretty sure that it drained itself back into the oil pan at shutdown each time. Of course, being BMW, it had to be replaced every few years, and that required a lot of stuff to be removed from the engine to get to it.
 
Question about the OCC. Did you put anything inside the can part? The one I put in my car came with something like a small nylon sponge. I think the intent is to give a larger surface area for the oil film to catch on.
Didn't see it listed on most CC's but it came with mine.
Might be a useful addition to help trap more oil vapour.....
 
Question about the OCC. Did you put anything inside the can part? The one I put in my car came with something like a small nylon sponge. I think the intent is to give a larger surface area for the oil film to catch on.
Didn't see it listed on most CC's but it came with mine.
Might be a useful addition to help trap more oil vapour.....
Ive seen many iterations for an OCC baffle. Mine came with a piece of basically chore boy - the stuff you clean a kitchen pot with...I think your right about having an easier surface to cling to, I also see it as helping the oil not slosh around in the can too much. That said I like the idea of a sponge better. Perhaps one of these days Ill swap out my scrubby filter w/a homespun sponge.
 
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