How many V6'ers are changing their own oil?

[mrgenesis2009]

I'm curious as to how many people with the V6 engine are changing their own oil? I'd like to get anyones inputs on the oil stick level reading and how much oil they are putting in to fill it. This has been discussed before but the thread died and the issue has not gone away (or at least I have not found any resolution). Hyundai has not provided any help what-so-ever.

Just for reference:
In my car, my oil stick shows at the "F" mark with only 4.5 US qts. The documentation says 5.5 us qts. That reading is taken at operating temperature 5 minutes after engine cutoff on level ground. I even brought in my car to Hyundai to see if I could get them to document my data and they did document it to be 4.5 to fill my car when they performed the oil drain and refill themselves (they were surprised and I watched them do it wil oil I brought in - the 5 us qts mobil 1 jug).

This is something that concerns me greatly because I would like my engine to last a long time trouble free regardless of the warranty.

Anyway, anyone willing to share anything they know about this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ben

 

[STREETS]

My self oil change gave me a refill of 5.5 qts- eventually after running the engine. shut off, run. shut off..wait. The top oil filter design impeads instant TRUE level inducation.

 

[Sayantsi]

My first oil change was gratis, and the oil level reads high now, but I plan on doing them going forward. I plan to aim for 5 quarts initially to see where the dipstick reads, although people with 5.5 quarts haven't reported any issues with overfill.

 

[kev4]

According to my very informed Service Manager the filter assemble drains quickly into the sump therefor influenceing the reading. He told me I have to have the hood opened with the enginge running and once you turn the engine off you must take the reading within 15 seconds.

The correct amount of oil is as the book states. (period) If you put in less you are running your engine with less oil then required.

This Service Manager is very proactive and alert. He is the best I have met , he even called me with additinal info straight from the Regional Operations Office. Also his mechanics are very good and have been well trained in all the new equipment and have vast experience. I have actually switched from where I bought the car to this Dealership soly because these guys know there stuff. Coquitlum Hyundai, Coquitlum, British Columbia, Canada.

Kev

 

[TJPark01]

The oil level issue has been discussed in detail by a post Mark888 started nearly a year ago...
3.8 Oil Level on New Genesis Shows High

 

[mrgenesis2009]

Sounds to me like the Genny V6 should have been designed without a dip stick. What good is it if it can't give a good reading? This is why this topic is still unresolved in my mind.

Ben

 

[ExecOutcomes616]

I have a shop in my city who I trust and they have advised me to use AMSOIL over Mobil 1. Any thoughts?

 

[TJPark01]

I have a shop in my city who I trust and they have advised me to use AMSOIL over Mobil 1. Any thoughts?

Both are good, both will work and both are expensive. Keep in mind motor oil alone isn't going to make your car perform better, and any benefits you may see will be way down the road. So if you plan on driving the car till the wheels fall off it's a good investment. If it's a lease, or you're gonna sell it after 5 years, all you're really doing is helping out the next owner/s.

 

[scottdk]

I have a shop in my city who I trust and they have advised me to use AMSOIL over Mobil 1. Any thoughts?

I have free oil changes for life where I bought my Genesis, but I run synthetic so I just pay the difference between free and the upgrade which is $50.

If I had the choice I'd probably run Amsoil, but it's damn expensive, more then Mobil 1 that's for sure

 

[TJPark01]

If you check out the largest Oil forum on the net BITOG, you will find a lot of conversation, more than you ever wanted to know about motor oil, and the like. The conclusion is that there is none. No one can prove running synthetic is better for your car, but no one can prove that running convention is worse for your car either. There have been people who change their oil every 3000 miles with the most expensive oil and get problems, and there are people who never change their oil and have none. At the end of the day, it's cheap insurance, and I think it's more important that the schedule is maintained and the fill level is proper and the filters are OEM, then the "type" of oil that goes in.

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[Mark_888]

If I had the choice I'd probably run Amsoil, but it's damn expensive, more then Mobil 1 that's for sure

Depends on a number of factors. If you purchase one 5 qt container at Walmart, Mobil 1 is a lot cheaper. If you purchase 5 bottles of Mobil 1 in quart containers from most auto part stores, Amsoil is not much more than Mobil 1 (if Mobil 1 is not on sale).

Amsoil purchases many of their synthetic components from Mobil, so I don't know what the fascination with Amsoil is about. Make sure you do not use Amsoil 0W-30 oil, which is designed for European cars like BMW, MB, VW, etc and is not suitable for the Genesis.

 

[Sayantsi]

The only way to take the witchcraft out of engine oil is to have your used oil analyzed. That way you can find out how the oil holds up in your engine over time, what metals are breaking down and getting caught in the oil, and if you can extend your oil changes.

Amazingly, people will talk ad nauseum about what is the correct way to go with your oil, but aren't willing to actually get a scientific analysis done.

I've seen people easily run 10k mi on regular oil and 20k mi on synthetic, comfortable in doing so because the analysis of their engine's oil showed that it could go the distance. With a new car, you have to adhere to the change schedule, but a UOA would at least give you peace of mind to change the oil at the recommended 7,500 mi or let you know if you need to change it more frequently.

 

[TJPark01]

The only way to take the witchcraft out of engine oil is to have your used oil analyzed. That way you can find out how the oil holds up in your engine over time, what metals are breaking down and getting caught in the oil, and if you can extend your oil changes.

Amazingly, people will talk ad nauseum about what is the correct way to go with your oil, but aren't willing to actually get a scientific analysis done.

But even those UOA's are kinda hard to breakdown. Yes empirically, I understand them and what they mean, but you don't know what is coming from where. Whether the results are being skewed by environmental factors, driving habits, oil viscosity, or pointing to some other issue like cooling, fuel delivery, it goes on and on. I've done the Blackstone thing and ended up with more questions than answers.

 

[Sayantsi]

But even those UOA's are kinda hard to breakdown. Yes empirically, I understand them and what they mean, but you don't know what is coming from where. Whether the results are being skewed by environmental factors, driving habits, oil viscosity, or pointing to some other issue like cooling, fuel delivery, it goes on and on. I've done the Blackstone thing and ended up with more questions than answers.

Well, you have to know how to read them, but they are a great source of information. The results aren't skewed by environmental factors, they are evidence of how they effect the engine and oil. You might find that in the summer when its dustier, your oil gets dirty faster, or that in the summer heat, the oil will sheer weight more quickly. Such knowledge can help you know what your engine needs and when. Regardless, the empirical data gathered from an analysis beats the old "my grandfather changed his oil every 3,000 miles, and so do I" thinking.

 

[TJPark01]

Well, you have to know how to read them, but they are a great source of information.

Yes, I know how to read them, but you're only seeing the end result, not how you got there. When you say:

The results aren't skewed by environmental factors, they are evidence of how they effect the engine and oil. You might find that in the summer when its dustier, your oil gets dirty faster, or that in the summer heat, the oil will sheer weight more quickly.

This is what environmental factors are. Location, temperature,driving habits,heat,cold, humidity. All these things are going to affect the UOA's. To get one done and then extrapolate any real information in tenuous at best. Now if you did 3 or 4 a year for say 4 years on the same car using the same oil, with the same driver and mapped them on a graph, then yes you could make some pretty good guesses. But seriously who the hell is going to do that? But like you said, it's much better than trying to gather anything from looking at the color of it or tasting it...mmm...Light Sweet Crude.

 

[Sayantsi]

Take more frequent samples if you want to know more about how you're getting to the end result. It all depends on how detailed you want to be. Most people just want to know how good the oil is, if there's a high silicon or engine block metal in the oil, to see how well its holding up.

 

[TJPark01]

Take more frequent samples if you want to know more about how you're getting to the end result. It all depends on how detailed you want to be. Most people just want to know how good the oil is, if there's a high silicon or engine block metal in the oil, to see how well its holding up.

I guess I'm just not that interested in seeing what the oil is doing in that detail. I'm assuming the oil is doing what it's intended to do. People argue what is the best oil, RP,Amsoil,M1,PP,Ultra,Synpower,M1EP, Edge. To me the best one is the one on sale. I just bot several 5QT jugs at wall mart of Valvoline Synpower for 2.75 a qt. To me, if I had to walk into Pepboys and pay 7 bucks a QT for any of the oils listed above, I wouldn't do it.

 

[Mark_888]

I will say this about synthetic: I don't seem to have the cold start up noise that many have reported. I use Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy (previously used Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance).

Since the V6 oil filter drains back into the crankcase when the engine is stopped (I know it does because I have done 2 oil changes so far) then I feel more comfortable with a full synthetic. I think most any decent synthetic will do, but I just happen to use Mobil 1 since it is very reasonably priced in 5 quart jugs at Walmart. I also think that 0W-20 and 5W-20 are ploys by manufacturers to increase their CAFE numbers and that a bit more viscosity on the high end is called for if one lives in a warm weather location like I do.

It should also be noted that I am not leasing my car, and tend to keep cars longer than many people, partly because I average less than 10K miles per year and also because I haven not had any engine problems on my previous car. I can't prove that using synthetic resulted in no engine problems on my previous car, but it sure seems a good idea to continue my good luck.

 

[TJPark01]

I will say this about synthetic: I don't seem to have the cold start up noise that many have reported. I use Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy (previously used Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance).

Since the V6 oil filter drains back into the crankcase when the engine is stopped (I know it does because I have done 2 oil changes so far) then I feel more comfortable with a full synthetic. I think most any decent synthetic will do, but I just happen to use Mobil 1 since it is very reasonably priced in 5 quart jugs at Walmart. I also think that 0W-20 and 5W-20 are ploys by manufacturers to increase their CAFE numbers and that a bit more viscosity on the high end is called for if one lives in a warm weather location like I do.

It should also be noted that I am not leasing my car, and tend to keep cars longer than many people, partly because I average less than 10K miles per year and also because I haven not had any engine problems on my previous car. I can't prove that using synthetic resulted in no engine problems on my previous car, but it sure seems a good idea to continue my good luck.

It's cheap insurance. Especially if you can buy the oil on sale, extended the oil drain intervals and plan on keeping the car for a while. I have about 70 quarts of motor oil in my garage. FUll SYthetic for the Genesis, a semisynthetic blend for older car and conventional for the car i'm leasing. I find a sale at Costco or Wally World and stock up, it's also a hell of a lot cheaper than buying them per QT at Autozone.

 

[Sayantsi]

So i got this message from an HMA engineer:

Sorry for the delay.
Per our official technical specifications, the Genesis 3.8 has an oil capacity of 5.8 quarts and the Genesis 4.6 has a capacity of 6.9. During a normal oil change, some oil remains on the internal parts. Therefore, the refill would be slightly less. I would recommend starting with 4 or 5 quarts on the Genesis 3.8 and 5 or 6 quarts on the Genesis 4.6 and then check the oil level.

I hope you are enjoying your Genesis.

Best regards,

I know my other car has a capacity of 5.9qt but takes ~5.5qt on oil/filter changes, and it is a 4-cyl engine, so as of now I'm inclined to think that the larger Hyundai V6, with a technical capacity of 5.8 qt, should probably have about 5 qt on oil/filter changes, and then top off until the dipstick reads correctly (up to .5 qt, for 5.5 qt total). There are more oil lines in the larger engine where oil can pool, so I think its reasonable to think that there is easily .8 qt in the engine even on a drain for the V6 and probably the V8 as well. The length of the drain period may be a factor as well...

Thoughts?