Car struggling to turn on after pumping gas

[MrSheep]

So I had this problem for a while where my engine light is on and it shows a code the it’s a high purge flow I changed the canister and removed the code but it went back on in 2hrs I looked at post seeing if anyone has the same issue I’m not sure where to start it’s getting to the point where the car now shakes every now and then I’m not sure if it’s the fuel filter or gas pump or a fumes leak somewhere but anyone willing to point me in the right direction will be greatly appreciated!

 

[air540g]

red: canister control valve.
This part is very easy to fault. The fault code is P2422.

green: fuel tank pressure sensor.
Be careful of this part, if you want to change the canister control valve, this part is easy to break.





yellow: purge valve
red: PCV valve

 

[MrSheep]

red: canister control valve.
This part is very easy to fault. The fault code is P2422.

green: fuel tank pressure sensor.
Be careful of this part, if you want to change the canister control valve, this part is easy to break.


View attachment 32648


yellow: purge valve
red: PCV valve
View attachment 32649

Where do you think I should start because I replaced the canister pure valve I think it’s the yellow one in your pic but the engine light still on and car still having trouble starting up when pumping gas. Btw I got a 2011 Hyundai Genesis sedan 4.6 v8 the code I’m getting is p0496 evaporative emission system high pure flow changed that part but still no good

 

[Mr. Incredible]

Where do you think I should start because I replaced the canister pure valve I think it’s the yellow one in your pic but the engine light still on and car still having trouble starting up when pumping gas. Btw I got a 2011 Hyundai Genesis sedan 4.6 v8 the code I’m getting is p0496 evaporative emission system high pure flow changed that part but still no good

after pumping gas, attempt to start the car with the gas cap off. if the car easily starts then you need to replace the canister itself as it likely has liquid fuel in it.

once the canister has liquid fuel, there is no longer any room for the gas vapors to expand, this causes vapor lock in the fuel system, resulting in failure to start or stalling after fully fueling the vehicle.

leaving the gas cap off for 5-10 miles will allow the vapors to escape via the filler neck. you can also opt to not fully fill, click off the pump about 1/2 to 1 gallon before it is fully filled, (before it auto stops) until you can replace the canister.


This behavior is typically attributed to "topping off" the tank, essentially shoving more fuel into the tank that it can handle. The fuel system on all vehicles since the late 1990s are sealed systems, the canister is there to capture the vapors so they are not released into the atmosphere. by topping off or over filling, you are causing liquid fuel to enter the vapor purging system, thereby preventing any room for the fuel to expand.

 

[MrSheep]

after pumping gas, attempt to start the car with the gas cap off. if the car easily starts then you need to replace the canister itself as it likely has liquid fuel in it.

once the canister has liquid fuel, there is no longer any room for the gas vapors to expand, this causes vapor lock in the fuel system, resulting in failure to start or stalling after fully fueling the vehicle.

leaving the gas cap off for 5-10 miles will allow the vapors to escape via the filler neck. you can also opt to not fully fill, click off the pump about 1/2 to 1 gallon before it is fully filled, (before it auto stops) until you can replace the canister.


This behavior is typically attributed to "topping off" the tank, essentially shoving more fuel into the tank that it can handle. The fuel system on all vehicles since the late 1990s are sealed systems, the canister is there to capture the vapors so they are not released into the atmosphere. by topping off or over filling, you are causing liquid fuel to enter the vapor purging system, thereby preventing any room for the fuel to expand.

I’ll try this and let you know my results thanks! Also by canister what canister the vapor canister or the canister purge valve because I changed the canister purge valve located on top of the engine and it didn’t fix anything

 

[Mr. Incredible]

vapor canister

 

[MrSheep]

vapor canister

Do you know where is it located at? In the gas tank?

 

[Mr. Incredible]

Do you know where is it located at? In the gas tank?

Part:

31420-3M500 - Vapor Canister - 2009-2016 Hyundai | Buy Hyundai Parts Now

2009-2016 Hyundai 2009-2016 Hyundai Vapor Canister 31420-3M500

www.buyhyundaipartsnow.com

Most cars it is either behind the fuel tank or above the left rear wheel, from what I can tell looking at the parts diagram on the Gen 1, it appears to be behind the fuel tank.

 

[air540g]

If you want to change the canister, be careful with the fuel tank pressure sensor. or change this sensor and the hose together.


location:

 

[air540g]

I find this video.

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[MrSheep]

If you want to change the canister, be careful with the fuel tank pressure sensor. or change this sensor and the hose together.
View attachment 32667

location:
View attachment 32668View attachment 32669

Are they sensitive parts or something?

 

[Tonfinnhead]

purge sensor was my issue on mine. Get bosch or oem direct brand to replace.

 

[Qship]

Sorry to dig up an old thread but, I'm having a similar issue.
2010 3.8 V6 MPI. No matter how little or how full of gas I fill with, the car takes anywhere from 3 to 5 whole seconds of cranking before it fires up.
I did have a code for Small evap leak and when I had that code, I had no issues. I replaced the purge valve and the code went away and hasn't come back. I have no MIL/CEL and as I said, regardless if I put in 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 or full (I never top up the tank after nozzle shuts off) the car just struggles to start. I heard/saw somewhere that there's a flap in the fuel filler tube (some call it a neck) that can get stuck and also cause these issues. Does anyone have info about this? Would it be in the lower section, upper section (I believe it's 2 sections) and how the heck would you even check it? I'm not one to throw parts at my car and hope something sticks so, community help is always appreciated.

 

[EdP]

Sorry to dig up an old thread but, I'm having a similar issue.
2010 3.8 V6 MPI. No matter how little or how full of gas I fill with, the car takes anywhere from 3 to 5 whole seconds of cranking before it fires up.
I did have a code for Small evap leak and when I had that code, I had no issues. I replaced the purge valve and the code went away and hasn't come back. I have no MIL/CEL and as I said, regardless if I put in 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 or full (I never top up the tank after nozzle shuts off) the car just struggles to start. I heard/saw somewhere that there's a flap in the fuel filler tube (some call it a neck) that can get stuck and also cause these issues. Does anyone have info about this? Would it be in the lower section, upper section (I believe it's 2 sections) and how the heck would you even check it? I'm not one to throw parts at my car and hope something sticks so, community help is always appreciated.

If you leave the car running when you fill up, does it pull away smooth? Any stumble?

 

[Qship]

If you leave the car running when you fill up, does it pull away smooth? Any stumble?

It's illegal to do that here (I'm in Ontario Canada). They'll shut the pump off if you leave the car running. I may try to do that just to test. But I'm curious, what would it mean if it stumbled?

 

[EdP]

It's illegal to do that here (I'm in Ontario Canada). They'll shut the pump off if you leave the car running. I may try to do that just to test. But I'm curious, what would it mean if it stumbled?

It is illegal in a lot of places but done very day.
If the car did not pull away clean, I'd suspect some sort of fuel supply problem.

 

[Qship]

It is illegal in a lot of places but done very day.
If the car did not pull away clean, I'd suspect some sort of fuel supply problem.

I could understand a fuel delivery issue if it happened at any point after i've put gas in. If the tank is at Low fuel light on, 1/4, 1/2, or 3/4 and I put any gas in, only the first start immediately after takes forever. After that, zero issues and it starts up right away.

 

[EdP]

I could understand a fuel delivery issue if it happened at any point after i've put gas in. If the tank is at Low fuel light on, 1/4, 1/2, or 3/4 and I put any gas in, only the first start immediately after takes forever. After that, zero issues and it starts up right away.

You need fuel, air, ignition. One or more of them is being disrupted. Adding fuel blocks or stops one of these temporarily.

Someone may have the answer, but things I'd try is first, not shutting the engine off. Next, would be to shut off, fill tank, go grab a snack and see if waiting 15 minutes makes a difference. That may help narrow down the culprit.

 

[jep604]

If you leave the car running when you fill up, does it pull away smooth? Any stumble?

I thought that would actually trigger a "CEL" leaving the engine running during fueling? The dealership stated this in 2006 buying my new 3.3 L V6 Sonata and in 2014 buying my current 3.8 L V6 Genesis. They also said, "Don't Top It Off"!

 

[jep604]

Sounds like he has a clog in a fuel delivery passage.