CAI for R-Spec

[forzza1]

Again. Oil analysis is everything. I send my oil off to Blackstone after every change. Run your high marketed dollar K&N vs mine and over the life of the motor and see which motor takes the beating.

Your $ per hp ratio is not well spent here... esp when you start talking about worn rings, etc

I never keep cars for longer than couple of years

 

[427435]

Whether you are correct or not is irrelevant. Your condescension and attitude guarantees that I won't take you seriously.

Cheers,
Newman

And what was this:

427435 - I will be sure to post pictures of my engine when it has melted into a slag of molten metal on the side of the road due to the K&N. ;-)

If you don't want to take the facts I posted seriously , it is your loss-------not mine.

 

[427435]

For what is worth...a nice semi-tutorial on air intakes..
http://www.autoanything.com/air-intakes/50A5A115A1.aspx

Enjoy

That's not a "tutorial" but a sales document. It is also wrong on at least one thing. It says:

Your engine relies on a balanced mixture of fuel and air for combustion. Currently, your vehicle draws air through the original manufacturer's intake tube and air box, which is typically loaded with a disposable paper air filter. Automakers design your vehicle's intake tube to be the quietest possible unit that can fit in your engine compartment.

While reduced engine noise is of benefit to you, it comes from an intake tube with multiple turns and bends. The result is a drop in the volume of air delivered to the combustion chamber. And, because your stock intake system completely confines the air box in your engine compartment, the air is usually hot when taken in. This combination of limited and warmer air causes fuel-rich combustion mixtures that don't burn at maximum power efficiency.




Today's engines are all fuel injected. The computer and sensors constantly measure air flow AND air temp (among other things) and only the amount of fuel that can be efficiently burned is injected.

 

[427435]

Due me a favor... take an oil sample now -- send it to Blackstone.

Take an oil sample every oil change afterwords and CYA -- watch your motor life go down the tubes.

Bottom line unless you loosen the restriction on the OEM setup (intake manifold, TB, runners, cams) the OEM paper filter will do just fine until you start building real power.

Save your $$$ for real MODs.

Good advice.

 

[STREETS]

He is correct on the the computer- it compensated for everything- temp, humidity, air flow- it keeps at a constant- so messing with what comes prior to the MAF is meaningless unless you compensate at the vehicle computer.

Don't go buying that snap on, 25% increase in gas mileage device heard on the radio either... : )

 

[OneFunGenesis]

There is no denying, however, that a CAI brings in cooler and more dense air. That means the MAF is going to pick up more air-flow and compensate with more fuel to get a bigger BANG in the cylinder. This means a little more power (at the top end and probably not noticeable) and for most, a slight increase in fuel economy.

It just makes the engine work a little less hard to produce the BANG thats needed to move a 4200lb vehicle lol

 

[forzza1]

So the ECU has to be re-flashed....

 

[427435]

No the ECM does not need re-flashing-----------unless you're adding a supercharger. Nor will he engine work harder with an air cleaner------except POSSIBLY at wide open throttle. At anything less than WOT, air flow is restricted by the combination of air intake restrictions and the throttle blade. For steady state conditions, removal of air intake restrictions leads to a slightly more closed throttle position and thus the same pumping "work" for the engine.

While the air may be cooler at the pickup point on a CAI, the difference as it the air enters the cylinder is minimal. Especially after the air passes through the intake system and manifold. Remember also that while 80 degree intake air may seem significantly cooler than 100 degree intake air, the absolute temperature difference (which is what enters in for thermodynamics) is 540 vs 560 degrees.

Have fun with your CAI and enjoy the extra noise. Your performance improvement will be unmeasurable except on the dyno (and then the difference will likely be within the tolerance band for the dyno) There will also be NO mpg improvements.

On the other hand, you will be shortening the life of your engine. Maybe like that of the air temp, it will also be meaningless. It doesn't matter to the guy that trades every 3 years if the engine wears out at 120,000 miles vs 200,000 miles. Of course, if you end up driving on a windy, dusty days, problems may occur sooner.

And don't expect Hyundai to warranty the guts of the engine if they see a K&N on it.

And there are some of us that won't buy a used car that has a K&N installed on it.

 

[forzza1]

No the ECM does not need re-flashing-----------unless you're adding a supercharger. Nor will he engine work harder with an air cleaner------except POSSIBLY at wide open throttle. At anything less than WOT, air flow is restricted by the combination of air intake restrictions and the throttle blade. For steady state conditions, removal of air intake restrictions leads to a slightly more closed throttle position and thus the same pumping "work" for the engine.

While the air may be cooler at the pickup point on a CAI, the difference as it the air enters the cylinder is minimal. Especially after the air passes through the intake system and manifold. Remember also that while 80 degree intake air may seem significantly cooler than 100 degree intake air, the absolute temperature difference (which is what enters in for thermodynamics) is 540 vs 560 degrees.

Have fun with your CAI and enjoy the extra noise. Your performance improvement will be unmeasurable except on the dyno (and then the difference will likely be within the tolerance band for the dyno) There will also be NO mpg improvements.

On the other hand, you will be shortening the life of your engine. Maybe like that of the air temp, it will also be meaningless. It doesn't matter to the guy that trades every 3 years if the engine wears out at 120,000 miles vs 200,000 miles. Of course, if you end up driving on a windy, dusty days, problems may occur sooner.

And don't expect Hyundai to warranty the guts of the engine if they see a K&N on it.

And there are some of us that won't buy a used car that has a K&N installed on it.

I am not an expert by any stretch of imagination but after doing some reading on my own I realized that what you said makes sense.
I think the best mod that can be done at this point w/o adversely affecting the engine integrity is a cat-back exhaust. What do you think about this Mark?

 

[427435]

I am not an expert by any stretch of imagination but after doing some reading on my own I realized that what you said makes sense.
I think the best mod that can be done at this point w/o adversely affecting the engine integrity is a cat-back exhaust. What do you think about this Mark?

That shouldn't hurt anything, may provide a very small hp increase, and perhaps a more enjoyable exhaust note. I wouldn't count on any mpg improvement, however------especially if you exercise the exhaust note often.

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[OneFunGenesis]

 

[forzza1]

That shouldn't hurt anything, may provide a very small hp increase, and perhaps a more enjoyable exhaust note. I wouldn't count on any mpg improvement, however------especially if you exercise the exhaust note often.

Our cars are nothing short of outstanding when it comes to mpg, I think this engine is one of the most frugal engine in its power class. I am pretty sure any effort to significantely improve mpg is futile.
Having said that a cat back exhaust will add a few hp (~10) and a nice sound. The only downside is the drone noise that tends to be a common characteristic of cat-backs. However according to one member of this forum this unpleasant sound shouldn't be of concern for 8 speed AT cars as the rpm is pretty low at hwy cruising speeds.

 

[OneFunGenesis]

That member would be I good sir

 

[forzza1]

I will let you know on the outcome

 

[scottdk]

However according to one member of this forum this unpleasant sound shouldn't be of concern for 8 speed AT cars as the rpm is pretty low at hwy cruising speeds.

I'm sure that also was said for cars when 5 and 6 speeds replaced 3 and 4 speeds too. I think if your expectations are no drone, you will be in for a surprise.

 

[OneFunGenesis]

^^ This my be true. But it's not like the car is a 4 cyl with a fart can. At least it will be a pleasant sound. It should be understated as well

 

[Holdmeback]

The drone is bad. I don't have a full catback, but replaced the stock mufflers with Magnaflows. I think the 8 speed and the low RPM it keeps the motor at makes it worse. It isn't an unpleasant sound, but it can be extremely loud at low RPM's under load. The lower the RPM the louder it gets. On the other hand at freeway speeds around 80 MPH it isn't as bad. Around town when behind slow pokes it can get very loud and uncontrolable unless you keep it in a lower gear manually. It is the worse between 1000 and 2000 rpms which is where this tranny likes to keep it for MPG's. Somebody did mention that if you remove the resonators it will not be as droney, but my guess is it would be very raspy. It sounds wonderful when under full throttle!

 

[OneFunGenesis]

Video?

 

[EliotRNess]

R-Spec doesn't come in White Satin - Only 3 color Black and both shades of silver. The ones that come in White are only 5.0 - without the 19 inch wheels or beefed up suspension.

 

[forzza1]

R-Spec doesn't come in White Satin - Only 3 color Black and both shades of silver. The ones that come in White are only 5.0 - without the 19 inch wheels or beefed up suspension.

They do come in White Satin here in Canada