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2013 Genesis R-spec 5.0 1/4 mile times

Your 1/4 Mile ET is 13.89 seconds computed from your vehicle 1/8th ET of 8.88 seconds.
Your 1/4 Mile MPH is 101.64 MPH computed from your vehicle 1/8th MPH of 81.97 MPH.

Not bad ;)
 
I wouldn't think so because the vehicle is ready picking up speed
 
Get some DR's :-)
 
Ok guys Im new to the forum but not new to racing. The Genesis R spec 5.0 should be running nothing higher than mid to high 13's anything else is driver error. Cwsm1000 unless you just enjoy the V8 sound the electronic cut outs are killing you.
1#The Genesis is not a race car.It is not tuned to run with open exhaust therefore the lack of backpressure is the reason the car is falling on its face on top end and most likely losing HP/TQ

2#The R spec comes with crappy all season tires that are not for racing so invest in some good tires to get good traction. (drag slicks/radials are not required /not to mention with slicks you make break something)

3#Practice feathering the throttle to get traction without blowing the tires out spinning. My best launches in my R spec were with the ESC on while feathering the throttle off the line slightly until forward momentum was strong. Never disable the ESC unless you are entering a burn out contest or trying to drift.

4# Leave the car in drive and remember to turn the ECO mode off!
 
"4# Leave the car in drive and remember to turn the ECO mode off!"
Members: Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I was under the impression that the "Eco" display is only a vacuum gauge reading. It is not connected to reduce timing, throttle response or mixture. It does nothing for or against performance.
Other than that I agree with the first 3 points of the previous post.
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Ok guys Im new to the forum but not new to racing. The Genesis R spec 5.0 should be running nothing higher than mid to high 13's anything else is driver error. Cwsm1000 unless you just enjoy the V8 sound the electronic cut outs are killing you.

1#The Genesis is not a race car.It is not tuned to run with open exhaust therefore the lack of backpressure is the reason the car is falling on its face on top end and most likely losing HP/TQ



2#The R spec comes with crappy all season tires that are not for racing so invest in some good tires to get good traction. (drag slicks/radials are not required /not to mention with slicks you make break something)



3#Practice feathering the throttle to get traction without blowing the tires out spinning. My best launches in my R spec were with the ESC on while feathering the throttle off the line slightly until forward momentum was strong. Never disable the ESC unless you are entering a burn out contest or trying to drift.



4# Leave the car in drive and remember to turn the ECO mode off!


What kind of times have you ran bone stock and then modified ?
 
"4# Leave the car in drive and remember to turn the ECO mode off!"
Members: Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I was under the impression that the "Eco" display is only a vacuum gauge reading. It is not connected to reduce timing, throttle response or mixture. It does nothing for or against performance.
Other than that I agree with the first 3 points of the previous post.


F.Y.I.
I just stumbled across this info in the FAQs section of the MyHyundai website:


What is Active ECO and how does it work?
The Active ECO button allows your vehicle to perform at the optimal level to receive maximum fuel efficiency by controlling the vehicle’s shifting patterns. The system is activated by the Active ECO button located by the driver’s left knee.


Is my vehicle less powerful when it is in Active ECO mode?
The Active ECO system modifies engine and transmission control specifically for improved fuel economy. The vehicle may not accelerate as fast when it is in Active Eco mode because it is operating at a level specifically intended to lower the fuel consumption rate. For best vehicle performance and drivability, turn your vehicle’s Active ECO off.
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Im not sure if you know but ECO mode can be turned on and off by the holding the display button on the steering wheel while ECO is on the screen.

I will be taking my R spec to the track in a few weeks and I will post time slips
 
yea i figured that one out. you can also put it in sports mode by shifting the auto transmintion to the right from drive. leave it there and the trans will wait untill right before redline to shift to next gear.
 
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Very nice. I'm guessing the burnout was possible due to removing the fuses for ESC/TC?
 
in the 2013 r spec you can turn of esc with the push of a button. :D
 
"4# Leave the car in drive and remember to turn the ECO mode off!"

Members: Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I was under the impression that the "Eco" display is only a vacuum gauge reading. It is not connected to reduce timing, throttle response or mixture. It does nothing for or against performance.

Other than that I agree with the first 3 points of the previous post.


^ yes
 
Ok

4# Leave the car in drive and remember to turn the ECO mode off!

dont you think taking it out of drive and switching to sports mode would result in a better run as it perfectly shifts the transmission through the gears?
 
@ darthspader, that's awesome! With the 2011, you cannot fully disable. There are threads to that effect, which is why I asked.

As soon as there is any deviation from straight path, the ESC still kicks in on the 2011...even when off. You can light up one tire, right until the point when she kicks sideways. Lol
 
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Re:"4# Leave the car in drive and remember to turn the ECO mode off!"
Experiment #1
My apologies, in advance for making some of you relive the trauma of a high school level science experiment. This experiment is not absolutely scientifically proven but without data logging equipment it is the best that I could do.
Purpose #1: To determine if the "ECO" mode in a 2012 R-Spec has any appreciable effect on performance.
#2: To determine if leaving the transmission selector in DRIVE or Sport makes any difference in acceleration.
Materials: clipboard, pen, handheld stopwatch, "TUCK" tape, chunk of 2*4
Method: Make several runs from 60 kph (37 mph for those of you that have not been converted ) observing rpm shift points using ECO mode/without ECO, DRIVE/SPORT
Observation #1: With ECO on car shifted twice at approx 6350 rpm-6400 rpm
Observation #2: With ECO off car shifted twice at approx. 6350-6400 rpm.
Please note the rpm scale is in 250rev increments and the needle is moving fast.
Observation #3: With block under accelerator pedal and ECO on car shifted (in drive) each time at 1800 rpm
Observation #4: With ECO off shifting occurred at 1800 rpm
Observation#5 With transmission in DRIVE car shifted at approx 6300-6400 rpm.
Observation #6 With transmission in SPORT car shifted at the same rpm.

Conclusion #1: "ECO" on or off means diddly-squat to the computer. It does not optimize anything . Maybe in an Elantra, but not in an R-Spec ( Note:diddly-squat is not a scientific definable term. Yes, I know I will lose marks for this.)
Conclusion #2 "Sport" or "Drive" has no effect on shift points when full throttle is used. *Remember, I let the tranny do the shifting in sport. I did not manually shift it.
Page 4-60 of the manual states," The ECO indicator light helps that you to drive economically." This is exactly how it is written. Somehow it didn't come out in translation. It further states, "It is displayed if you drive fuel efficiency." I swear, I am not making this stuff up.
Members: I stand by my previous post. Let the flaming arrows fly!
P.S. I could not time, observe and drive at the same time (I am a man, as my wife frequently points out). Therefore, no times were submitted.
 

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Re:"4# Leave the car in drive and remember to turn the ECO mode off!"
Experiment #1
My apologies, in advance for making some of you relive the trauma of a high school level science experiment. This experiment is not absolutely scientifically proven but without data logging equipment it is the best that I could do.
Purpose #1: To determine if the "ECO" mode in a 2012 R-Spec has any appreciable effect on performance.
#2: To determine if leaving the transmission selector in DRIVE or Sport makes any difference in acceleration.
Materials: clipboard, pen, handheld stopwatch, "TUCK" tape, chunk of 2*4
Method: Make several runs from 60 kph (37 mph for those of you that have not been converted ) observing rpm shift points using ECO mode/without ECO, DRIVE/SPORT
Observation #1: With ECO on car shifted twice at approx 6350 rpm-6400 rpm
Observation #2: With ECO off car shifted twice at approx. 6350-6400 rpm.
Please note the rpm scale is in 250rev increments and the needle is moving fast.
Observation #3: With block under accelerator pedal and ECO on car shifted (in drive) each time at 1800 rpm
Observation #4: With ECO off shifting occurred at 1800 rpm
Observation#5 With transmission in DRIVE car shifted at approx 6300-6400 rpm.
Observation #6 With transmission in SPORT car shifted at the same rpm.

Conclusion #1: "ECO" on or off means diddly-squat to the computer. It does not optimize anything . Maybe in an Elantra, but not in an R-Spec ( Note:diddly-squat is not a scientific definable term. Yes, I know I will lose marks for this.)
Conclusion #2 "Sport" or "Drive" has no effect on shift points when full throttle is used. *Remember, I let the tranny do the shifting in sport. I did not manually shift it.
Page 4-60 of the manual states," The ECO indicator light helps that you to drive economically." This is exactly how it is written. Somehow it didn't come out in translation. It further states, "It is displayed if you drive fuel efficiency." I swear, I am not making this stuff up.
Members: I stand by my previous post. Let the flaming arrows fly!
P.S. I could not time, observe and drive at the same time (I am a man, as my wife frequently points out). Therefore, no times were submitted.

You confirmed, scientifically, what some of us have been saying over and over and over for about 2 years. Not specifically about 1/4 mile times, but engine/transmission and acceleration in general. You're one patient dude.
 
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