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2015 turn signal burnout problem

So is it a PITA to replace these? I too have a 2015 but bulbs are still working (knock on wood) but I fear I'm going to have to unbolt all kinds of stuff just to get to and replace an $5 bulb.
You are right. The dealership charges $34 to change those front amber turn signal bulbs.
 
I have replaced the amber bulbs (driver side 2x passenger side 1x) in less than a years time and today my driver side amber is out again. I do own a 2015 G80. So far the dealership charged me once for each bulb, and haven't charged me for any replacements because the bulbs have a 1 year warranty I will see if I get charged for this replacement.
 
I have replaced the amber bulbs (driver side 2x passenger side 1x) in less than a years time and today my driver side amber is out again. I do own a 2015 G80. So far the dealership charged me once for each bulb, and haven't charged me for any replacements because the bulbs have a 1 year warranty I will see if I get charged for this replacement.
I would try Philip brand 2357NALL(longer life) amber bulbs. I have been using the same set for over two years in my 2015 Genesis with no issues. The longer life version of the stock bulbs or normal 2357NA bulbs lasts longer due to beefier construction. I like the Philip brand of bulbs regardless of type(HID,LED,Halogen,etc)since they usually last a long time.
 
My left turn signal bulb just went out. The Part's department guy gave me a replacement bulb for free. I guess he didn't feel like ringing my up. It was not difficult at all to replace. Just look at a youtube video. The driver side is easy; however, I wouldn't attempt to replace the bulb on the passenger side.
 
There is another thread here somewhere, where the issue of the amber DRL/turn signal bulb burning out is an issue. Seems some folks have been chasing this problem, replacing the bulb multiple times. Just wanted to let you all know, it happened to me last week. I called the dealer, and they said it was a known issue. There is apparently something wrong with the wiring harness, which causes a short & the bulb burns out. They replaced the harness & bulb under warranty. I did ask if they could be pro-active and go ahead and replace the harness on the side that had not burned out. Was told, "no", the bulb would have to have burned out. But if it does, bring it back for the free fix. Sooooo, just FYI, if you're one of the folks having this happen, the next time it does, it's covered ( provided you're still under warranty ).

I had the same problems with the amber DRLs. The original wiring was probably ok to handle turn signal duties but the 1157/2357 bulb pulls too much current through the wiring harness to handle constant DRL. I noticed that both harnesses had over heat symptoms near the bulb connection. I replaced with TRITON V6 vleds and solved the problem. They're built with aircraft quality and the DRL/Turn signals are brighter and respond instantly.
 
My driver side bulb went out second time during lifetime of my vehicle and I called dealership and they told me there is no recalls or anything of that sort for this issue and hence they are not going to fix anything for me. I replaced it myself and it's not difficult to do for driver side but I had to bring to dealership for passenger side before and it's costly operation. Based on this thread there is no solution seems to be to the issue and Hyndai or dealership is not going to fix it for free either (I have extended warranty as well). So switching of DRL will reduce likelyhood of the issue, my question is wether with DRL off car will still operate in Auto mode (that is automatically turn on headlights during evening ours)
 
My driver side bulb went out second time during lifetime of my vehicle and I called dealership and they told me there is no recalls or anything of that sort for this issue and hence they are not going to fix anything for me. I replaced it myself and it's not difficult to do for driver side but I had to bring to dealership for passenger side before and it's costly operation. Based on this thread there is no solution seems to be to the issue and Hyndai or dealership is not going to fix it for free either (I have extended warranty as well). So switching of DRL will reduce likelyhood of the issue, my question is wether with DRL off car will still operate in Auto mode (that is automatically turn on headlights during evening ours)
"Auto" has them on, I think... I just reverted to Old School & turn them on & off manually. Small price to pay to avoid having to replace them on my 5.0... Where you have to remove the body braces and air filter boxes on BOTH sides to access. :wallbash::wallbash::wallbash:
 
Like so many others I've had many of the turn/DRL bulbs burn out. This week, however, I discovered an interesting fact about these turn signals. My Genesis is a 2015 3.8.

I decided to measure the temperature of the bulb socket's back - with it still in place in the turn signal housing (driver's side, easier to get to, as many of you know). The thermal scanner showed a temperature of just short of 200 degrees F. This was after I had made a short 20-minute drive with the DRL lights on.

Clearly this is way too hot, so I've decided, like so many others, to leave the DRL off.

I should note that the day before I removed the bulb (2357LL) and carefully cleaned both socket contact points.

Might have to consider LEDs...
 
My driver side bulb went out second time during lifetime of my vehicle and I called dealership and they told me there is no recalls or anything of that sort for this issue and hence they are not going to fix anything for me. I replaced it myself and it's not difficult to do for driver side but I had to bring to dealership for passenger side before and it's costly operation. Based on this thread there is no solution seems to be to the issue and Hyndai or dealership is not going to fix it for free either (I have extended warranty as well). So switching of DRL will reduce likelyhood of the issue, my question is wether with DRL off car will still operate in Auto mode (that is automatically turn on headlights during evening ours)
I keep my DRL off unless I'm driving at night. I don't drive much at night, so that works for me. It's a shame that Hyundai didn't have a recall on this issue.
 
I had the same problems with the amber DRLs. The original wiring was probably ok to handle turn signal duties but the 1157/2357 bulb pulls too much current through the wiring harness to handle constant DRL. I noticed that both harnesses had over heat symptoms near the bulb connection. I replaced with TRITON V6 vleds and solved the problem. They're built with aircraft quality and the DRL/Turn signals are brighter and respond instantly.

Which model did you choose?


OR

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Like so many others I've had many of the turn/DRL bulbs burn out. This week, however, I discovered an interesting fact about these turn signals. My Genesis is a 2015 3.8.

I decided to measure the temperature of the bulb socket's back - with it still in place in the turn signal housing (driver's side, easier to get to, as many of you know). The thermal scanner showed a temperature of just short of 200 degrees F. This was after I had made a short 20-minute drive with the DRL lights on.

Clearly this is way too hot, so I've decided, like so many others, to leave the DRL off.

I should note that the day before I removed the bulb (2357LL) and carefully cleaned both socket contact points.

Might have to consider LEDs...
Remember most bulbs run hot by design(light filaments are resistors); even LED bulbs produce excessive heat. Hell most 1157/2357LED bulbs used as DRL burnout due to the control circuit overheating. The light diodes are usually still operational, but that means nothing if the LED circuit board fail due to heat.
 
Which model did you choose?


OR

Damn, $125-200 for some DRL lights.:eek:
 
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I like the idea of the V6 Triton package, but am a little concerned as to how it may effect my wrap around warranty. It could be an out for the warranty company to not cover future electrical problems.
 
I like the idea of the V6 Triton package, but am a little concerned as to how it may effect my wrap around warranty. It could be an out for the warranty company to not cover future electrical problems.
A very valid concern since many extended warranty companies void any electrical module coverage for "modified" electrical systems added to the stock electrical system.

My extended warranty company does warn that non-dealer installed "modifications" could void the coverage.

Here is my exclusion clause for Georgia in my extended warranty. 2(d )is where the aftermarket LED lights kit would fall under.

That mean I have to remove my aftermarket amp and subwoofer before I give the car to a dealership for any work.
1599405145640.png
 
Which model did you choose?


OR


Has anyone bought these and if so, how was the runtime? VLEDs are hugely popular in the Tundra aftermarket scene and most swear by them for longevity even taking into account the premium purchase price. I'd be interested in this package during one of their sales (20% for Labor Day as I type) if the same could be said about these.
 
A very valid concern since many extended warranty companies void any electrical module coverage for "modified" electrical systems added to the stock electrical system.

My extended warranty company does warn that non-dealer installed "modifications" could void the coverage.

Here is my exclusion clause for Georgia in my extended warranty. 2(d )is where the aftermarket LED lights kit would fall under.

That mean I have to remove my aftermarket amp and subwoofer before I give the car to a dealership for any work.
View attachment 31885
The language in your warranty is what worries me. I think I'll stay away for that reason.
 
A very valid concern since many extended warranty companies void any electrical module coverage for "modified" electrical systems added to the stock electrical system.

My extended warranty company does warn that non-dealer installed "modifications" could void the coverage.

Here is my exclusion clause for Georgia in my extended warranty. 2(d )is where the aftermarket LED lights kit would fall under.

That mean I have to remove my aftermarket amp and subwoofer before I give the car to a dealership for any work.
View attachment 31885
That is kind of why I have been waiting on the sub amp install.. My luck the head unit would go goofy after installing a supplemental amp.
 
I think it's a good idea that you wait.
 
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