8-Speed Transmission Flush

memphiskane

Registered Member
42
3
8
Absolutely lube the calipers. Just like Mark 888 said at the pivot point. I usually go a step further and lube pretty much any contact point with a tiny bit of anti-seize, also pull the slide pins clean them up and re-lube with 3M silicone paste.

When I got my car the front brakes were shot aside from the pads. Front rotors were shot and almost all of the brake hardware was rusted and or over-worn. The rears were in better shape but still not great. Looks like they had never been cleaned or lubed, then were just left to sit and rust. The condition was very very suprising given it had under 30,000 miles on it. So I ordered a new hardware kit, slide pins and rotors from rock auto. Hardware still looks just about brand new after 30,000 miles, rotors not so much. The hats tend to rust up pretty good. I should have went with OEM or Stoptech on those, a purely cosmetic problem but it still bothers me.
 

amartz

Registered Member
1,203
4
0
Jacksonville, FL
Absolutely lube the calipers. Just like Mark 888 said at the pivot point. I usually go a step further and lube pretty much any contact point with a tiny bit of anti-seize, also pull the slide pins clean them up and re-lube with 3M silicone paste.
My first msg was a joke, of course. But you are loosing me on the "pivot point". I usually do my own brake jobs, and I've already replaced the pads all around, and the front rotors on my 2012 3.8. Very easy to do, compared to some others I've worked on. But what, exactly, is the "pivot point"?? (Getting slightly off topic here, I guess...)
 

Mark_888

Registered Member
13,335
121
63
Genesis Model Type
1G Genesis Sedan (2009-2014)
Sliding I get. Pivoting I didn't. With the front callipers, that are not a floating caliper design, there is not so much sliding going on, no?
When you hit the brake pedal, the calipers squeeze against the rotors. There are parts that can be lubricated to allow the them to squeeze without undo friction, especially since those parts are subject to a lot of corrosion and road debris.
 

jmac

Hasn't posted much yet...
28
1
0
Ft Worth
my 2012 5.0 shifts very very very sloppy when pressed. i'm told the trans computer is "locked." fluid smells & looks fine...oh wait I can neither smell or see it just experience the slop
 

Mark_888

Registered Member
13,335
121
63
Genesis Model Type
1G Genesis Sedan (2009-2014)
my 2012 5.0 shifts very very very sloppy when pressed. i'm told the trans computer is "locked." fluid smells & looks fine...oh wait I can neither smell or see it just experience the slop
Take it to a different dealer. Tell them you are sure it is defective. Hyundai has replaced a fair number of early 2012 transmissions due to a manufacturing/design defect. If you don't get satisfaction, open a case with Hyundai Motor America.
 

hooker

Registered Member
18
0
0
Take it to a different dealer. Tell them you are sure it is defective. Hyundai has replaced a fair number of early 2012 transmissions due to a manufacturing/design defect. If you don't get satisfaction, open a case with Hyundai Motor America.
When were the early 2012 transmissions built? According to my car fax mine was built on 11/27/11. I don't know when they started production but am afraid that may be one of the early ones. Right now I'm leaning towards changing the transmission fluid at 55k miles since most of the wear I've heard is in the first 20k miles of a cars life.
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g_353441

thanks for the info on valvoline, I know draining is probably very simple, how do add would it be with a pump from the bottom or is there a fill tube somewhere on top. I've looked everywhere for pictures with no luck. Thanks, Charlie
 

Elwood4u

Hasn't posted much yet...
9
0
1
Minnesota
I wanted to bring this thread I started to sort of n happy ending. Here in MN we had a warm Winter so far this year and I couldn't wait 'till next year :) So, I did differential flush, oil change and tranny drain & flush all at the same time over two-day period. Anyway, all went well I thought. I kept the car level on four floor jacks and drained the tranny. Only about 3 quarts came out unfortunately but it is better than nothing. I intend to do the same every 45 to 60K-mile interval to freshen it up. Ideally you want to replace the plastic tranny cover which has the filter built in to it. But unfortunately with this car, replacement parts like that are hard to come by or expensive :-(
The other few observations/notes here:
>I got the car up to operating temps after a commute from work (38 miles). Manual says go from P to D to P and N by staying in each spot for 2 seconds on the transmission. The car complains when you shut her down with it in N. But it works.
>Service manual recommends replacing the rubber o-rings on the bottom check and drain plugs as well as the metal crush gasket/washer on the fill hole one the side. I was able to get those at NAPA auto parts store. I can post the part numbers, if you need them. Let me know
>Lastly, I measured how much drained out. As I mentioned above it was 3 quarts. So, when I was filling it back up, as soon as I filled in about 3 quarts, tranny fluid would pour back out from the fill hole. So, it almost works like filling a traditional manual tranny or even differential fill on this car. So, that simplicity is nice. I got a cheap manual fluid pump from Harbor Freight store and it worked really well.
Remove plastic pan 4 bolts, 2 nuts and 2 plastic nuts (10mm & 9/16") to get to the tranny by the way. Fill hole is on the driver side.
All 3 plugs tightened to 18 lb/ft with 8mm hex socket

Wow, this ended up being a long post :) Thanks everyone for your input.
Sorry to rehash an old thread but this subject is applicable now for me. I have a 2013 sedan 3.8 and am planning on doing a differential drain/fill as well as a transmission drain/fill. Differential is straight forward.

My question relates to the above post. It looks like you have to drop the pan in order to accomplish this correct ( 4 bolts, 2 nuts and 2 plastic nuts)? It also appears there is a pan gasket that I assume should be replaced at the same time. Contemplating replacing the pan/filter but at $150 doesn't seem critical at 54K miles. Any info on proper trans drain/fill procedure would be much appreciated.

Thanks.
 

OUsig

Been here awhile...
184
14
18
McKinney TX
Genesis Model Type
1G Genesis Sedan (2009-2014)
I got my dif fluid replaced at the local Hyundai dealership...I normally do things myself but when it was under $100...I didnt feel like messing with it
I did the same for the transmission. They charged $200 (give or take) to do a drain and fill. I plan on doing this again in the next year to clean up more of the original fluid.
NO mechanical flush on this transmission!!!
I am at 105k miles and the car drives/shifts like a dream
 

Jerziboi

Hasn't posted much yet...
33
1
8
I have a drain and refill done on my 2011 every 50,000 or so. Just had my 3rd one done along with a new Pan/filter. Cost is about 600.00 which is high but about right for a Luxury car. I don't have info on the 8 speed. Mine is the zf transmission and the fluid is expensive and is not available at parts stores like Autozone. Also it is a sealed transmission, no dip stick.
$600? The stealership is rip'n you off, you can get the ZF fluid and have a trans shop drain and fill for half of that Genuine ZF Parts
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