8-Speed Transmission Flush

[memphiskane]

Absolutely lube the calipers. Just like Mark 888 said at the pivot point. I usually go a step further and lube pretty much any contact point with a tiny bit of anti-seize, also pull the slide pins clean them up and re-lube with 3M silicone paste.

When I got my car the front brakes were shot aside from the pads. Front rotors were shot and almost all of the brake hardware was rusted and or over-worn. The rears were in better shape but still not great. Looks like they had never been cleaned or lubed, then were just left to sit and rust. The condition was very very suprising given it had under 30,000 miles on it. So I ordered a new hardware kit, slide pins and rotors from rock auto. Hardware still looks just about brand new after 30,000 miles, rotors not so much. The hats tend to rust up pretty good. I should have went with OEM or Stoptech on those, a purely cosmetic problem but it still bothers me.

 

[amartz]

Absolutely lube the calipers. Just like Mark 888 said at the pivot point. I usually go a step further and lube pretty much any contact point with a tiny bit of anti-seize, also pull the slide pins clean them up and re-lube with 3M silicone paste.

My first msg was a joke, of course. But you are loosing me on the "pivot point". I usually do my own brake jobs, and I've already replaced the pads all around, and the front rotors on my 2012 3.8. Very easy to do, compared to some others I've worked on. But what, exactly, is the "pivot point"?? (Getting slightly off topic here, I guess...)

 

[memphiskane]

I mean the slide pin, so I guess I said the same thing two ways. Basically anything that moves.

 

[amartz]

I mean the slide pin, so I guess I said the same thing two ways. Basically anything that moves.

Sliding I get. Pivoting I didn't. With the front callipers, that are not a floating caliper design, there is not so much sliding going on, no?

 

[Mark_888]

Sliding I get. Pivoting I didn't. With the front callipers, that are not a floating caliper design, there is not so much sliding going on, no?

When you hit the brake pedal, the calipers squeeze against the rotors. There are parts that can be lubricated to allow the them to squeeze without undo friction, especially since those parts are subject to a lot of corrosion and road debris.

 

[jmac]

my 2012 5.0 shifts very very very sloppy when pressed. i'm told the trans computer is "locked." fluid smells & looks fine...oh wait I can neither smell or see it just experience the slop

 

[Mark_888]

my 2012 5.0 shifts very very very sloppy when pressed. i'm told the trans computer is "locked." fluid smells & looks fine...oh wait I can neither smell or see it just experience the slop

Take it to a different dealer. Tell them you are sure it is defective. Hyundai has replaced a fair number of early 2012 transmissions due to a manufacturing/design defect. If you don't get satisfaction, open a case with Hyundai Motor America.

 

[hooker]

Take it to a different dealer. Tell them you are sure it is defective. Hyundai has replaced a fair number of early 2012 transmissions due to a manufacturing/design defect. If you don't get satisfaction, open a case with Hyundai Motor America.

When were the early 2012 transmissions built? According to my car fax mine was built on 11/27/11. I don't know when they started production but am afraid that may be one of the early ones. Right now I'm leaning towards changing the transmission fluid at 55k miles since most of the wear I've heard is in the first 20k miles of a cars life.

 

[g_353441]

thanks for the info on valvoline, I know draining is probably very simple, how do add would it be with a pump from the bottom or is there a fill tube somewhere on top. I've looked everywhere for pictures with no luck. Thanks, Charlie

 

[Elwood4u]

I wanted to bring this thread I started to sort of n happy ending. Here in MN we had a warm Winter so far this year and I couldn't wait 'till next year So, I did differential flush, oil change and tranny drain & flush all at the same time over two-day period. Anyway, all went well I thought. I kept the car level on four floor jacks and drained the tranny. Only about 3 quarts came out unfortunately but it is better than nothing. I intend to do the same every 45 to 60K-mile interval to freshen it up. Ideally you want to replace the plastic tranny cover which has the filter built in to it. But unfortunately with this car, replacement parts like that are hard to come by or expensive :-(
The other few observations/notes here:
>I got the car up to operating temps after a commute from work (38 miles). Manual says go from P to D to P and N by staying in each spot for 2 seconds on the transmission. The car complains when you shut her down with it in N. But it works.
>Service manual recommends replacing the rubber o-rings on the bottom check and drain plugs as well as the metal crush gasket/washer on the fill hole one the side. I was able to get those at NAPA auto parts store. I can post the part numbers, if you need them. Let me know
>Lastly, I measured how much drained out. As I mentioned above it was 3 quarts. So, when I was filling it back up, as soon as I filled in about 3 quarts, tranny fluid would pour back out from the fill hole. So, it almost works like filling a traditional manual tranny or even differential fill on this car. So, that simplicity is nice. I got a cheap manual fluid pump from Harbor Freight store and it worked really well.
Remove plastic pan 4 bolts, 2 nuts and 2 plastic nuts (10mm & 9/16") to get to the tranny by the way. Fill hole is on the driver side.
All 3 plugs tightened to 18 lb/ft with 8mm hex socket

Wow, this ended up being a long post Thanks everyone for your input.

Sorry to rehash an old thread but this subject is applicable now for me. I have a 2013 sedan 3.8 and am planning on doing a differential drain/fill as well as a transmission drain/fill. Differential is straight forward.

My question relates to the above post. It looks like you have to drop the pan in order to accomplish this correct ( 4 bolts, 2 nuts and 2 plastic nuts)? It also appears there is a pan gasket that I assume should be replaced at the same time. Contemplating replacing the pan/filter but at $150 doesn't seem critical at 54K miles. Any info on proper trans drain/fill procedure would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

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[OUsig]

I got my dif fluid replaced at the local Hyundai dealership...I normally do things myself but when it was under $100...I didnt feel like messing with it
I did the same for the transmission. They charged $200 (give or take) to do a drain and fill. I plan on doing this again in the next year to clean up more of the original fluid.
NO mechanical flush on this transmission!!!
I am at 105k miles and the car drives/shifts like a dream

 

[Jerziboi]

I have a drain and refill done on my 2011 every 50,000 or so. Just had my 3rd one done along with a new Pan/filter. Cost is about 600.00 which is high but about right for a Luxury car. I don't have info on the 8 speed. Mine is the zf transmission and the fluid is expensive and is not available at parts stores like Autozone. Also it is a sealed transmission, no dip stick.

$600? The stealership is rip'n you off, you can get the ZF fluid and have a trans shop drain and fill for half of that Genuine ZF Parts

 

[g_209127]

Hello,
I have a 12' 3.8 Sedan and have seen the "drain and fill" method suggested and after consulting "Identifix" seeing that only a very small amount of oil will drain. Is the removal of the pan necessary to achieve this 5 qt. "drain?' Thanks Very Much, Kurt

 

[kw012]

Hey guys. Thank you very much again for chiming in! I have decided to postpone this work to next spring. We are already dipping into 30s here in MN and we have bunch of other things on the pre-winter list to do (e.g. seal the deck, prep snow blower, prep motorcycles etc. etc. )
As some of you mentioned this sealed tranny has a supposedly lifetime fluid. But I wanted to be on the safe side and stick to a regular maintenance interval.

I did some research in the meantime as well. I'm more of a DIY kind of guy on a budget. So, sounds like my route will be using Valvoline Import or Maxlife Synthetic which meet Hyundai specs. I will drain as much as I can and refill. Since this is a partial drain. I might do it every 30K or so. I will keep you posted how things go!

All the best!

Been a while since your post about transmission fluid change. Did you run Valvoline MaxLife and if yes, is it OK. I am about to do a complete flush with that MaxLife Full Syn fluid and even though Valvoline says it is compatible, I would like to hear something positive before I take that leap. My 2012 R-Spec has turned 80k miles without issues or previous changes. Thanks Keith in AZ

 

[princelybug]

Just hit 60K on my Equus. Took her to my indy for 8-spd trans pan/filter replacement. He was able to drain/fill just under 7qts of fluid. There is a noticeable improvement in shift quality. I highly recommend it.

 

[kw012]

Just hit 60K on my Equus. Took her to my indy for 8-spd trans pan/filter replacement. He was able to drain/fill just under 7qts of fluid. There is a noticeable improvement in shift quality. I highly recommend it.

What brand fluid used? I think the capacity is 10.5 qts. Guess the trans cooler and torque converter contained the rest? Glad you had good results. My dealer will do a full flush of fluid only with me providing the Valvoline MaxLife fluid for 1 hr labor..around $150. Getting a quote from local BG service center with my fluid once he determines what adapter he needs to full flush with his machine.

 

[princelybug]

We used the OE fluid - Hyundai Part No.: 00232-19052 (ATF SP-IV-REAR).

Yes, I knew there was no way we'd get all 10qts drained. I'll most likely do this again at 120K if I still have the car.

 

[PMCErnie]

I wouldn’t go cheap on this service. I’d let my regular dealer do it by the book. With under 46 thou on my ‘12 I really haven’t worried about it yet. With my 10/100,000 powertrain warranty (and also an extended warranty to 120,000) I don’t expect to worry about it in the future.

 

[princelybug]

Agreed. For those who might find it useful, here's the Hyundai procedure (for the Equus):

Hyundai Equus: Fluid Repair procedures - Hydraulic System - Automatic Transmission System (SBC) - Hyundai Equus VI 2009-2020 Service Manual

 

[kw012]

I wouldn’t go cheap on this service. I’d let my regular dealer do it by the book. With under 46 thou on my ‘12 I really haven’t worried about it yet. With my 10/100,000 powertrain warranty (and also an extended warranty to 120,000) I don’t expect to worry about it in the future.

There is a difference between going cheap and going smart. Oils are formulated with specific specs and you can be sure that Hyundai does not manufacture any fluids used in their vehicles. Hyundai also thinks we are stupid enough to believe that there exists a "lifetime" trans fluid. They are not the only vehicle manufacturer to subscribe to such labels. Call it what you want, like generic prescription meds you can get a safe fluid from other manufacturers and be smart to save a lot of hard earned cash. Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic trans fluid matches the factory spec fluid and guarantees it will be just fine and will not affect the vehicle warranty in writing. For $18/gallon, it is a win-win. As in many questions in life, there can be more than one right answer. Here is one such example. In my BMW 740il then with 105,000 miles on it I changed the lifetime trans fluid with proper spec Mobil 1 full syn fluid and ran it an additional 140,000 miles without issues.