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Adding bass to your 17 speaker Lexicon with new amplifier

I am not sure about this one. It has to be mono which this one does not seem to be. However, 200W will do just fine. No, RCA Adapter is not a necessity. Just make sure that you will splice the cables as following (red):
1588184003977.webp

You will love this mod! Congrats on your new ride! I assume it is Ultimate. I have another project for you, check out my DRL mod in the signature. ;-)
 
I've thought about doing this with my old JL jx500/1D but I am almost certain that amp will blow the speaker, at 300w @ 4 ohm.
I agree with everyone that says the bass is really lacking
 
I am no expert in this but I have 400w mono amp on low setting and it does great. I set the gain and xover to have the sub sound same or slightly better than G90 o G80.
 
kocyk123 I believe it is a MONO amp according to these two links :

MTX TNP112D Single 12" ported enclosure with 100-watt mono amplifier at Crutchfield

MTX Audio TNA201 Terminator 200 Watt Amplifier Tnp112d Amp for sale online | eBay

Also I get the entire schematic but I'm still confused about the wiring of the RCA wires. Are you splitting each individual red and white RCA cable? (like in my photo). And again if so why the adaptor, didn't you just need to cut one end off the adaptor to wire it? I imagine the adaptor just provides a quick disconnect option.

Sorry if I'm wrong and again thank you for your help.

I have a 3.8L with the technology package I believe (have the Lexicon 17 speakers option). Only thing I don't have that I wish I did is the 19" rims! The 5.0 ultimate packages are very rare in Canada 🍁. I don't seem to see a link to your DRL mod?
 

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The amp from the first link will do it. I tried to visualize what I have done here:

(picture on the right shows 2 connectors that plug into oem amp)

1588188781904.webp

Will this help?

Here is the link to the LED mod (unless your car came with it already. I know Canada configuration was a bit different than US):
2015 LED strip as DRL mod
 
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kocyk123 said:
The amp from the first link will do it. I tried to visualize what I have done here:

(picture on the right shows 2 connectors that plug into oem amp)

View attachment 28712

Will this help?

Here is the link to the LED mod (unless your car came with it already. I know Canada configuration was a bit different than US):
2015 LED strip as DRL mod
Click to expand...

Ok great, I think I got it. So the adaptor automatically combines the two positives from each RCA wire and the two negatives from each RCA wire into a single plug that just has two wires for you to solder instead of four.

Is my photo correct? The bare copper wire in the RCA wire is the - negative correct?

Thanks for the diagram clarification.
 
Yes, yes and yes :-) 🍻
 
Good luck and let us know!
 
Sorry Kocyk123 so one more question, so which half is the actual adaptor in your photo. Are the red and white plugs of the adaptor plugged into your aftermarket amp in that photo or is it the other half spliced into the stock blue wire coming from plug w the red and white plugs cut off the adaptor? The adaptor makes it much more confusing.

Also is the amp on the D/S or P/S? You mention the D/S but in your photos it appears to be on the battery side which is P/S for me.

Sorry about all the questions but I am OCD about this type of thing and could only find a improvised style adapter which I may not use so need to get this right.
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By saying the adapter, I mean this (in green):

1589229374310.webp

The goal here is to connect the blue wire (coming from the OEM amp) to the new amp. In this picture, the blue wire is connected to rca adapter. Rca adapter is connected to rca splitter. Rca splitter is connected to the input of the new amp. Does that answer your question?

I am not sure what the D/S or P/S means. Below is the link to the amp I am using so you can check the specs and the answer might be there:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker...-pass-crossover-black/6333354.p?skuId=6333354
 
D/S (driver's side) and P/S (passenger side) is my guess.

Question - Am I to assume the "output" side of the Kicker Amp is still to be connected to the sub itself? The RCA Female plug points are still bare in the photo...
 
oh, I made the correction to the pinout in post #13. Yes, the output goes back to the left over 2 wires that go to subwoofer.
 
Why would you connect the new AMP to the OUTPUT of the original amp? why not to the input?
 
No. Output form the old amp goes to the input of the new amp. Output from the new amp goes to the subwoofer. It is all in post #1 and fixed pinout in post #13.
 
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kocyk123 said:
No. Output form the old amp goes to the input of the new amp. Output from the new amp goes to the subwoofer. It is all in post #1 and fixed pinout in post #13.
Click to expand...

Your posts and instructions were very good and detailed. However, to be successful in following your instructions....one should have a basic understanding of electricity and electronics to understand the why behind the what of installing the amp. If not, the questions become more difficult to answer in a way that one who does not possess said knowledge can understand and make sense of.
 
kocyk123, does it sound fuller in the G with the added amp? And, can you now leave the equalizer for bass at 0? So, that the other speakers are now mid and treble? Great write up by the way. I have a JL Audio slash that I will use (500/1v2). Thanks.
 
You can tune it to sound better. I like to tune the amp so I can be around +6 with bass setting so I still get good bass from the front door bass speakers. Otherwise it is just the sub if you go with 0 or negative.
 
215G said:
kocyk123, does it sound fuller in the G with the added amp? And, can you now leave the equalizer for bass at 0? So, that the other speakers are now mid and treble? Great write up by the way. I have a JL Audio slash that I will use (500/1v2). Thanks.
Click to expand...

exercise restraint with this amp...
You're at 500 watts @ 4 ohm and the kicker in the write up is at 150 watts @ 4 ohm
 
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