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Adding bass to your 17 speaker Lexicon with new amplifier

Has anyone tried a "single sensing" power on amp that has a high level speaker input. Theoretically this should avoid the need to tap the ACC feed. Specifically I'm looking at a KENWOOD KAC 5207 for the factory sub. not sure if that feature would mess with the factory amp or not.
 
Has anyone tried a "single sensing" power on amp that has a high level speaker input. Theoretically this should avoid the need to tap the ACC feed. Specifically I'm looking at a KENWOOD KAC 5207 for the factory sub. not sure if that feature would mess with the factory amp or not.
I've used 3 different amps with this feature and all have worked flawlessly. As long as it's using the DC offset I think it's fine
 
I've used 3 different amps with this feature and all have worked flawlessly. As long as it's using the DC offset I think it's fine
Thanks! Good to know, I'm going to look into the specs a little more but I think that's what i'm going to try.
 
I've been working on my box and had some mishaps with acrylic on top of the scorching heat lol. Ironically last week I through my unfinished box in and left the LOC wired up like I had it already and it worked flawlessly this time, on and off with the car at least 8 times, no sound issues either. I'll have to dig into the wiring again when I finish the box. I'm building a 4th order hybrid bandpass box, two 12s in 4ohm configuration. Ported side tuned to 60hz, not sure what the sealed side will get me yet.
 

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Hey all. Newbie to the forum and I'm impressed with what everyone has to offer. I purchased a 2017 G80 last week and so far I'm very impressed. The one thing I'm missing is a little more bass and came across this post. Great write up!!!! Could I ask a favor? Can the various changes that have been made along the way be rolled into the original instruction set and then re-posted? I hope to add an AMP in the coming weeks and although I think I have noted the changes I'm sure I missed something along the way. Thanks!!!!!!
 
Had a hard time finding a decent amp less then $300 in Canada right now, so finally went a Planet Audio AC1000.2 for a stock speaker boost. Will try the high level input first but since the sensitivity is rated 2v-8v I might end up just going with an LOC. Thanks for all the tips on this page, will update once I have installed.
 
ok maybe someone can help me.. I have the 14 spkr and installed following wchavisiii's instructions, everything looks good and I soldered all the connections. Trouble is the amp wont turn on, my stereo plays as normal minus the sub that's rerouted. So I checked the voltage and the amp is getting power and has a good ground, but when I checked the ACC it only shows 5.7 volts when on and oddly 1 volt when off. I think the amp needs 12v to turn on. I checked the pink wire and it is putting out the same voltage so Im not losing anything. I'm wondering if there is another ACC wire I could tap into or what voltage you guys ACC is putting out.

update- figured it out turns out that pink wire was a speaker wire. I tested the other pink wire on the grey plug and it was 12v on so hooked to it and now it all works. So on my 14spkr 2 plug setup I only needed wires from the Grey plug. Side note most of the speaker wires I ran the voltmeter on were 5.7v or less so my amps high level input range of 2-8v was fine. big thanks to kocyk and wchavisii for pointing me in the right direction
 
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I'll just add one more update, based on what I've read here and elsewhere I set my gain level to match the Input level which was about 12v @ 50hz @ 75% volume. I also set my LP crossover to 80hz. I'm not sure if this is optimal but so far it sounds excellent, a nice improvement in the whole car sound. WIN_20200920_14_23_49_Pro.webp
 
I'll just add one more update, based on what I've read here and elsewhere I set my gain level to match the Input level which was about 12v @ 50hz @ 75% volume. I also set my LP crossover to 80hz. I'm not sure if this is optimal but so far it sounds excellent, a nice improvement in the whole car sound. View attachment 32140
Nice Job with the plywood and wiring .
👍
 
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I'll just add one more update, based on what I've read here and elsewhere I set my gain level to match the Input level which was about 12v @ 50hz @ 75% volume. I also set my LP crossover to 80hz. I'm not sure if this is optimal but so far it sounds excellent, a nice improvement in the whole car sound. View attachment 32140
Very clean install.(y)
 
Do you have pics of it installed? How do you like it so far, did you remove the stock sub to make it easier to have the bass pass through to the car?


Sorry, I actually got the box in, connected it up and have been bumping ever since lol. I still need to take it back out and put the carpet back in, install the bass processor. I got some lights for the trunk also, wanted to make a mount for the amp and stuff just haven't had the time.

As far as sound goes its more than you can handle comfortably, I keep it turned down most of the time. I also have the ports facing in through the center door area in the back seat, when closed it still sounds good but is distorted a little from the stock sub taking that pressure(hasn't blown yet lol). I do think a more perinate solution will be to drill some holes to let more air through the back, and I may install some material over the stock sub to protect it because I still like the little extra mid/low range it gives.

This box covers a wide bandwidth of bass so it has a lot of clarity however I have to be careful with how I go with the ports, as it sets the two are too small though tuned I get little distortion from moving so much air, I'm thinking if I add the vents and add two more on top it will sound much better.

I really do need to get on this, just when I'm not working I'm trying to spend time with the kids or working on my house(were remodeling).

My other thought was I originally planned for a full acrylic window, the one I ordered I managed to crack so I have to order another one, would be good to do all that stuff at once(procrastination I know...)

I actually posted videos of it in action on The Genesis Owners Group in Facebook.

 
Hello:
2017 G80 Ultimate new owner here.
The bass on the G80 is poor in quality and loudness.
Quite a thread !
Do you think the 2017 is likely / "almost" identical to the 2015 per wiring etc?
Do you think there is any need to do anything beyond what is noted on p1 - only adding an amp and wiring?
Any point in placing a sub box (less than 2-3 cu ft size) in the trunk or on the hump behind the front seats to the passenger rear seat legroom area and away a bit from the rear seat vents? I do wish to maintain trunk space and the rear hump area / rear passenger area would be rarely used.
Horn loaded speaker user - Klipsch K-horns, LaScalas, Heresy's. Multiple Pro Audio 15" and 18" subs. So I do know about clean bass.
Thx in advance
From Nola with love
 
As far as I know, wiring on 2015 and 2017 is the same. Please follow the instructions in post #1 and also check post #13. My amp is sitting next to the spare tire.
 
I did the mod and can confirm, bass is much tighter and it's an easy mod with solid results. Took about 1.5h. I used Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 with gain set at 4 and the aux knob set at 75%, sounds great.
Post #13 has the colors of the cables reversed though, sub - was grey in my car and sub + was blue.
Thanks for the intel. I just bought the R2-500x1 and will be installing it in the next few weeks - just waiting for the sound deadening materials for the deck (JUST in case) - I'm replacing the stock sub with a Polk Audio 8" and don't want any excessive vibration.
 
Question about the 14 speaker system from a guy who is not a car audio techie.

So if I wanted to add a sub (trunk) and took it to an car audio shop, do they disconnect the lead(s) from the tiny rear deck "sub" and use the same leads for the sub box, then an amp is added for the power? Or do they have to run a bunch of wires etc to the head unit to make it all work?
 
Question about the 14 speaker system from a guy who is not a car audio techie.

So if I wanted to add a sub (trunk) and took it to an car audio shop, do they disconnect the lead(s) from the tiny rear deck "sub" and use the same leads for the sub box, then an amp is added for the power? Or do they have to run a bunch of wires etc to the head unit to make it all work?
If you are getting a new sub with new amp, They should take the wire from the existing sub and connect them to the new sub amp high level input, then connect the new sub to the new sub amp output. (you might need a Line Output Converter (LOC), if the amp does not have a high level input. The new sub amp will need 12v power, ignition and remote turn on wires. You can also get a LOC with the remote turn on wire. to simplify the hookup. Its a simple hookup for a shop, or if you have a little technical ability.
 
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