Adding bass to your 17 speaker Lexicon with new amplifier

[Homarkvii]

I am not sure if this has been asked. I have a 2015 5.0 w/14 speaker system will the amp be the same? or is there a different pin out?

 

[kocyk123]

Yes, pinout is different. It has been discussed but I can't remember if the answer is in this thread. It is in this forum though.

 

[yepvegas]

#1 - wires going to the RCA adapter which connects to the input on the new AMP
#2 - wires coming from the new AMP from the speaker side
(picture from my first attemp with tap a wire. I fixed it with soldering and heat shrink so it looks clean)
View attachment 28100

below you will see where I grounded the amp. You can use self tapping screw:
View attachment 28101


Below you will find the RCA splitter. You can also see my gain and x-over setup. With this setup, my bass is set to 3 and it is sometimes too much when listening to XM Chill channel.
View attachment 28102

Thank you for the right up by any chance do you have the speaker wire break out for a 2015 Genesis G80 with the 14 speaker system? Also just a side not you would be better off using the stock grounding location for the amp and it would be less work to do as well.

 

[yepvegas]

After adding some length to the ACC wire and resoldering a few connections everything is working great!
Would highly recommend this setup - great quality bass but not rattling everything in the trunk too much. M3-10IB-S-Gw-4 Sub and MX300/1 Amp. Both are JL Audio and both are for marine use which is most commonly recommended for infinite baffle/free air use, amp has infrasonic filter to help keep from blowing the sub as well. Taking the seats, C pillar covers, and rear deck lid out were a pain but having 2 people helped tremendously. (Also a 90°drill was a life saver) Thanks again for the original write up to give me the courage to start this mod and saving me a couple hundred bucks! I do have the stock sub sitting around if anyone is in need...

Can you provide any info on how you removed the rear seat and everything else to access the sub. My plan is to remove the sub to allow the bass into the car. My concern is how to remove it with damaging the rear sunshade. Does the rear sunshade rattle at all with the bigger sub back there? Do you have any more pictures during the install process?

I looked at the picture wrong and was somehow a bottom of the thread page please disregard my question above. I will go back and read up on what you have posted. i would delete the post but do not see a way to do it.

 

[Qhouse]

Thanks! Did this today on the ‘15 Genesis 3.8 AWD Ultimate 17-speaker Lexicon and worked like a charm - took me a couple hours. Instead of drilling my own ground I used the bottom bolt from the OEM amp bracket. Still need to fully tune the amp but enjoy the added kick

 

[kocyk123]

Awesome. Good to know that it worked for you!

 

[kevvyg]

To those with the 14 speaker, which wires did you use? I've read pink, orange with blue stripe, and the greyish with black stripe. I'm having a hell of a time getting mine. I have pink for remote, blue with orange for negative to high level and greyish with black for positive to high level input, but it's playing a solid bass tone. What's even weirder is the tone gets louder as I close the trunk. As far as I can tell, my ground and power are good...

 

[sparrk]

I am able to follow and install the amp by Rockville. It is the first time I was trying to install an audio system. Thank you.

 

[KingSoulja]

Hey quick question will I be able to follow these same steps with installing two 12s or 15s in trunk and like maybe 6k amp

 

[kanisama]

Just got a 2017 G80 Uiltimate this month and this thread is exactly what I'm looking for. The stock bass is so lacking even at +10. I really want to remove the ability to blow out the sub though, so I'm wondering if anyone has specific recommendations for amps maybe a little less powerful than in the original post. Unless that is always a possibility.

kocyk123, I am near Chicago and would love to contract you to work on this with me if that offer is still open. As a new member of the forum I'm not sure I can send a PM yet...

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[Mikebrooks]

If your amplifier is not capable of using speaker (hi) level inputs, I strongly recommend using either a hi/lo level adapter to reduce the output to pre-amp level. This will save many amps from being damaged due to too much voltage level on the input side. Another option (more expensive but will also allow custom tuning of sub amp) is to use a DSP. Many of these are designed for OEM integration/speaker level inputs & will yield amazing results (especially if adding aftermarket subs). Being new to the Genesis & haven't had time to dig into the sound system yet (pickup my Genesis today or tomorrow), you can also integrate with the rest of the system if you have a DSP with enough inputs/outputs or have linkable DSP units. Sub/amp upgrade will be my first task.

 

[Mikebrooks]

Hey quick question will I be able to follow these same steps with installing two 12s or 15s in trunk and like maybe 6k amp

Don't forget to add a few extra batteries if you're using that much real power.

 

[bigpapa0825]

Just did this on the 2016 Ultimate and a few things ive observed. The wire colors differ and when you reveal the sheathing the Light Pink wire for example looks pink but the exposed part looks brown. Fairly clean car with low miles so I suspect its from heat and time.

The two sub wires were completely different however on mine.

lol I followed the first one, it sounds ok but I discovered that after putting it all back together the factory amp will go into protect mode when you first start the car with the amp still connected lol. Going to swap to the other pair later

Did this get resolved. Mine goes into protect the same way. If I power after market amp after turning on the system, then no problem. I don't get it. Heeeeeeelp.

 

[bigpapa0825]

Hi All,

This mod has been performed on 2015 Genesis 3.8 AWD Ultimate with 17 speaker Lexicon system

I wanted to improve the bass without adding new subwoofer in the trunk for my 17 speaker Lexicon sound system. I was able to do it simply by adding amplifier to stock subwoofer speaker. Thanks to carguy75, dfyffe and arcman for your assistance! What you will need:

- Mono amplifier. I got the following:
View attachment 28086


- amp wiring kit 8AWG (I got 6awg since they only had that available in the store)

- RCA female to RCA 2 male adapter:
View attachment 28087


- speaker wires
- soldering iron
- heat gun
- heat shrinks

Step 1.

DISCONNECT NEGATIVE WIRE FROM YOUR BATTERY

Remove everything from your trunk. Remove the floor cover. Remove black plastic cover that goes along the bumper (where the latch is). Remove screws holding the carpet on the driver’s side where the oem amp is hidden. I didn’t remove it completely. I removed only the screws that allowed me to have opening big enough so I can fit both of my hands in there (sorry I didn’t take pics of that).

Step 2.

Unplug the three connectors (big white, big gray and small black(be careful with this one because it is fiber-optic)).

Step 3.

Locate your rear subwoofer + and – wires and ACC on connector B.
View attachment 28088
View attachment 28089

Step 4.

Once you locate both + and - cut them. Grab both ends from the plug side and and splice them into rca connector:
View attachment 28090

Once you have spliced them into RCA adapter, connect the adapter to your new amp input:

View attachment 28091

Step 6.

Grab your new speaker wires, grab the remaining + and - wires from the plug you cut (the ones that go to the subwoofer) and connect them accordingly to the amp:
View attachment 28092

Step 7.

Locate ACC wire on the plug (light pink - see chart in previous step). Grab new wire and splice it with the ACC. Run the new wire to the REM on the amplifier (this will turn on and off your new amp):

View attachment 28093

Step 8.

Add + from the battery using 8awg or 6awg cable with a fuse (once you get the amplifier you like, it will tell you what fuse it needs).
Add - (ground) wire, I connected it to the chassis. Make sure it is connected to bare metal.

Step 9.

Make sure your new amplifier is switched to HI input level:
View attachment 28094

Step 10.

Set your gain, x-over. Make sure to check the video below which explains best setup for gain and x-over:

Step 11.

Test and make sure everything works properly. Clean up wires and enjoy your new sound system!!

Please do not use tap a wire connectors. Cut the wires, and solder them together and cover with heat shrink. My first attempt to this project failed because tap a wire on the ACC wire would not work at all so my amp would never kick in.

Let me know if you have any questions.
PK

I followed every step and my Factory amp goes into protection every time I turn the car on. REM turns on aftermarket amp but no audio from the factory amp. If I disconnect the RCA cable and start over, factory amp starts up no problem. Then I plug the RCA back in and Boom Boom Boom...all good, until I have to turn off the car and then it's back to protection. Any ideas here?

 

[CarDriver]

Hi all,

Just got my 2021 G90 two weeks ago. I have a Memphis mojo 15 with a 1700 watt kicker amp ready to be installed. I have been reading through the forms since I bought the car, and have ran into an issue. I found my factory amp, but it does not match any of the amps I have seen on the forms here. My amp only has 2 sets of inputs that are 28 pins each (not all are used). I have attached pictures of the amp, as well as the inputs. If anyone would be able to provide any advice here it would be greatly apricated. Everything except the high level inputs is wired up and ready to go. I just can't find the pin information. Thank you all.

 

[lopedogg]

Hi all,

Just got my 2021 G90 two weeks ago. I have a Memphis mojo 15 with a 1700 watt kicker amp ready to be installed. I have been reading through the forms since I bought the car, and have ran into an issue. I found my factory amp, but it does not match any of the amps I have seen on the forms here. My amp only has 2 sets of inputs that are 28 pins each (not all are used). I have attached pictures of the amp, as well as the inputs. If anyone would be able to provide any advice here it would be greatly apricated. Everything except the high level inputs is wired up and ready to go. I just can't find the pin information. Thank you all.

Most of this post is dedicated to 2015/2016 systems, I would guess you need find the service manual for you car and look up the pin-outs there.

 

[dfyffe]

If you're having protection mode problem, most like you need a hi to low adapter between the sub out of the oem amo and the input of your amp, not sure which amp you are using but rca input is usually high impedance input.

 

[CarDriver]

Ended up taking it in to have it done. Put in Focal PS 165 F3E powered by a JL Audio VX800/8i in the front deck, and a Memphis Mojo 1512 powered by a JL Audio RD1500/1. Had them dynomat the front doors, as well as the trunk. System sounds great, but the highs need some time to break in. If anyone ever needs the wires they need, leave a post and I'll dig into it.

 

[carguy75]

Ended up taking it in to have it done. Put in Focal PS 165 F3E powered by a JL Audio VX800/8i in the front deck, and a Memphis Mojo 1512 powered by a JL Audio RD1500/1. Had them dynomat the front doors, as well as the trunk. System sounds great, but the highs need some time to break in. If anyone ever needs the wires they need, leave a post and I'll dig into it.

Pics please!!!!

 

[CarDriver]

Still have bit of trunk room with the Memphis 15 in there. They pulled out the tire in the trunk and made an amp rack, also where they put my second battery.