Air temp out of the vent is 20+ degrees hotter on the drivers side vs the passenger side?

[gpjlytham]

2012 Hyundai Genesis 4.6L V8

Main issue: - A/C on with both drivers and passenger side temps set to low. The blower on full speed and the air temp out of the drivers side vent is 20+ degrees warmer than the passenger side. I don’t know if all genesis models have temp controls for each side but this car has that feature, so you could have heat out of one side and cold out of the other, but both are set to low with the a/c on.

What I think is happening: - the heater control on the drivers side isnt fully shutting off and that is causing the air to be warmer on the drivers side.

Questions: -
where is the valve or ? that controls the heat shut off for the drivers side vents?
What is the valve or ? name or part number?
Is this a known issue?
Any silent recalls?
Any instructions on how to fix this issue?

Other items of note: -
the air temp out of the vents goes up a few degrees when parked at idle
The air temps out of the vents drop a bit if you rev the engine while parked.
The air temps out of the vents are lowest when on the freeway with some revs
If you are on the freeway going fast and you put the car in neutral and let it idle (still going fast) the temp goes up a bit.
The engine temp never gets hot
The engine fan comes on when the a/c is on and the fan moves a lot of air

 

[EdP]

2012 Hyundai Genesis 4.6L V8

Main issue: - A/C on with both drivers and passenger side temps set to low. The blower on full speed and the air temp out of the drivers side vent is 20+ degrees warmer than the passenger side. I don’t know if all genesis models have temp controls for each side but this car has that feature, so you could have heat out of one side and cold out of the other, but both are set to low with the a/c on.

What I think is happening: - the heater control on the drivers side isn't fully shutting off and that is causing the air to be warmer on the drivers side.


Questions: -
where is the valve or ? that controls the heat shut off for the drivers side vents?
What is the valve or ? name or part number?
Is this a known issue?
Any silent recalls?
Any instructions on how to fix this issue?

Other items of note: -
the air temp out of the vents goes up a few degrees when parked at idle
The air temps out of the vents drop a bit if you rev the engine while parked.
The air temps out of the vents are lowest when on the freeway with some revs
If you are on the freeway going fast and you put the car in neutral and let it idle (still going fast) the temp goes up a bit.
The engine temp never gets hot
The engine fan comes on when the a/c is on and the fan moves a lot of air

I've had similar issues with other Non-
genesis cars. There are blend doors that can stick. Could be a tuck door, could be the actuator but others here may know more.

The other things you describe are pretty normal. The engine turns the AC compressor so higher RPM can give max output. Since the car is 8 years old and you are in a hot region, it may pay to have the charge checked as it may be a little low and that would magnify the temperature difference at idle.

Putting the car in neutral at highway speed slows the engine and slows water flow so yes, temperature may come up a bit.

You say the engine fan comes on. I think you mean the radiator fan, the electric one that is temperature controlled. Not needed at highway speeds and plenty of air flow. AC put more load on cooling so that could turn it on.

 

[gpjlytham]

Update: -

We don’t use the heater much in AZ but i tried turning the heater on to full heat and the driver’s side doesn’t get as hot as the passenger side…… interesting it doesn’t get as hot or as cold as the passenger side.

I removed the crash pad lower panel (big plastic bit below the steering wheel) and the metal plate behind the plastic panel to get access to the temp control actuator. While i was upside down with my head by the brake pedal I had my son turn the temp up and down. The actuator appears to move correctly, not sticking or binding on anything. I removed the temp control actuator, I kept the wires connected and turned the temp up and down the temp control actuator moves without incident. I grabbed the part that the temp control actuator (TCA) moves (door inside the heater box) and it moves freely. I reinstalled the TCA to see if anything else moves when you adjust the temp and another actuator moves, I think its called the console temp control actuator, I didn’t remove it but it appears to move easily/correctly.

I blew air into the heater box through the hole that sends air to your feet thinking that perhaps something (leaf, twig, baseball card) was stopping the blend door from sealing properly, but no change.

My thought is that the blend door inside the heater box isn’t sealing correctly and it is allowing heat or a/c to mix, but how do I get at it to make seal correctly? How do you get it out?

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[gpjlytham]

I contacted the dealer to see if my problem was a known issue but their only advice was to pay them $150 for a diagnostic.

I looked on the nhtsa.gov website but nothing was listed for my temp issue.

anyone have any ideas?

 

[EdP]

I contacted the dealer to see if my problem was a known issue but their only advice was to pay them $150 for a diagnostic.

I looked on the nhtsa.gov website but nothing was listed for my temp issue.

anyone have any ideas?

Not a safety issue so NHTSA would not be involved.
Had a similar problem on a Buick. Solved it by giving the car away.
I wonder if a good AC shop could help you.

 

[pulsar]

I’ve monkeyed with GM blend door actuators before. Was (4) of them under the dash in a not easy to get to area while your head is in uncomfortable position. Before you rule out the actuators be sure you have accounted for all of them. I unhooked each one by one to confirm my issue then removed the problem actuator, took it apart to see a plastic gear with some missing teeth. At least after market items for GM cars are generally cheap. Was like $18.00 to order a new one. Your other concern about duct sealing around the actuator door could also be an issue. The foam seal material around the duct joints and actuator doors and stuff seem to turn to mush after the vehicle gets older. Outside of warranty of course. I’ve heard of dealers wanting $250 or more to replace actuators so if you go to the dealer be prepared for a large bill.

 

[jazzie366]

2012 Hyundai Genesis 4.6L V8

Main issue: - A/C on with both drivers and passenger side temps set to low. The blower on full speed and the air temp out of the drivers side vent is 20+ degrees warmer than the passenger side. I don’t know if all genesis models have temp controls for each side but this car has that feature, so you could have heat out of one side and cold out of the other, but both are set to low with the a/c on.

What I think is happening: - the heater control on the drivers side isnt fully shutting off and that is causing the air to be warmer on the drivers side.

Questions: -
where is the valve or ? that controls the heat shut off for the drivers side vents?
What is the valve or ? name or part number?
Is this a known issue?
Any silent recalls?
Any instructions on how to fix this issue?

Other items of note: -
the air temp out of the vents goes up a few degrees when parked at idle
The air temps out of the vents drop a bit if you rev the engine while parked.
The air temps out of the vents are lowest when on the freeway with some revs
If you are on the freeway going fast and you put the car in neutral and let it idle (still going fast) the temp goes up a bit.
The engine temp never gets hot
The engine fan comes on when the a/c is on and the fan moves a lot of air

Check your A/C Refrigerant charge. You must use a machine such as a Robinair one. For systems like in Hyundai which are true split systems, they can run low and cause the vent temperature to rise on one side. I'm not sure of the science behind it but this happens on all cars I've experienced with true split systems. For example, a 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee I had to work on. Same concern, pass. side vents were not blowing as cold as the driver's side. Checked the temperature going from the compressor's pressure line and the intake line of the compressor. I found that both sides were not how they should be. Suction side should be sweating (dripping with water) and the pressure side should be very hot. Pressure side wasn't too hot and suction side wasn't too cold. Checked charge and found it was at 600G of freon, charge is 1100G. Re-charged and replaced leaking condenser after injecting leak dye and all problems are solved. Check the basics, such as the charge, first. Do not assume you need $800 in parts and labor only to find that you were wrong. Also, stuck blend doors can be easily fixed with a drain snake.

 

[air540g]

It’s very easy.
Do not push AC button, drive your car just use inner circle mode. if vents temperature are different, the vent controler is failure.

If vents temp are the same, then push AC button. and then if vents temp are different, you need to refill r134a

 

[gpjlytham]

It’s very easy.
Do not push AC button, drive your car just use inner circle mode. if vents temperature are different, the vent controler is failure.

If vents temp are the same, then push AC button. and then if vents temp are different, you need to refill r134a

I tried air540g's suggestion but i'm still confused.

With the temp set to low and the a/c off, the vent temps are the same but with the temp set on high and the a/c off the pass side is much hotter. see details below

Temp in garage 89 degrees​	​	​
All temp readings are with the engine at idle​	​	​
Fan on full speed​	​	​
​	​	​
Condition​	Drivers temp​	Passenger temp​
Heat on full​	149​	179​
temp on low with a/c off​	113​	114​
temp on low with a/c on​	85​	62​
heat on full with a/c on​	131​	156​

 

[air540g]

Do you use inner circulation mode? It’ s very important.

Try all test useing inner circulation mode.

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[air540g]

Ignore other parts, there 4 parts that are very important.
drive side: temperature door and temperature actuator
passenger side: temperature door and temperature actuator

the temp actuator is the most important part of all.





the temp actuator is controlled by volt. different volt is a different door location.

 

[air540g]

so, try press the "DUAL" button, and then set drive side temp and passenger side temp separately.

for example, set drive side temp is low, and the measure drive side vents temp.
set drive side temp at 30°c ， measure drive side vents temp.
you can test actuator is good or not

drive side actuator controls drive side temperature door.

 

[air540g]

if the actuator is bad. replace it is easy

for example drive side:

 

[gpjlytham]

Thanks for all your help air540g. This time the duel button was on and the recirculate was on, but stilll some strange readings. Do you think it's a blend door or ?

Temp in garage 92 degrees​	​	​
All temp readings are with the engine at idle​	​	​
Fan on full speed​	​	​
Duel mode on​	​	​
recirculate on​	​	​
​	​	​
Condition​	Drivers temp​	Passenger temp​
temp on low with a/c off​	112​	112​
temp set at 75 with a/c off​	113​	113​
temp set at 85 with a/c off​	114​	114​
temp set at 89 highest temp b4 "high"​	116​	116​
temp set at high with a/c off​	153​	180​
temp on low with a/c on​	102​	71​

 

[air540g]

I think the temperature door and the actuator are good. You can ignore the max temp because it is useless. You need to replace the actuator if you want to get the same temp on max


I think you need to refill R134A. Because the only difference is "ac on". Ignore the actuator and refill the R134a is the cheapest way.

 

[EdP]

I think the temperature door and the actuator are good. You can ignore the max temp because it is useless. You need to replace the actuator if you want to get the same temp on max
View attachment 32418

I think you need to refill R134A. Because the only difference is "ac on". Ignore the actuator and refill the R134a is the cheapest way.
View attachment 32419

Check the refrigerant type. Not sure on this one but newer models are using R1234yf.

 

[gpjlytham]

Update: -

Hi All

Thank you for all for your help.

I hate to admit defeat and take a car to a garage but I don’t have all the a/c tools or skills so I printed off a groupon for an a/c evac and recharge at the local midas garage, $52 and they put it on the machine and determined that one of the valves was leaking and they replaced that (additional $85) along with the evac and recharge and the a/c is working properly again. Oct 8th and it was 102 degrees today in Sunny Scottsdale so a/c is still required.

 

[lsstanley414]

Good Afternoon. I have a feeling there's a problem with my actuator. My Windows defrost is not blowing but receiving heat out all of Vents. Is anyone familiar with the location of the actuator for defrost on the Hyundai genesis 2012 3.8?

 

[rlf_1981]

if the actuator is bad. replace it is easy

for example drive side:

View attachment 32406

Do you have the diagrams for the passenger side?