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Alignment issues

Prezdmm

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I have had my Genesis aligned multiple time and yet there is still a pull to the right. Is there an issue with the car or could this be a tire issue?:confused:
 
I have the same issue after putting new tires and doing alignment and dealership mechanics can't find the cause.
 
I always been of the impression that roads are naturally sloped to the right ever so slightly for water run off causing righthand drift. Imho!
 
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The inside edge of my rear tires wore right down to the steel after about 15,000 miles (I should have rotated them sooner but didn't look closely enough at the inner edge). The rear alignment didn't seem to be that far out of whack, but the rear camber and total toe were at the minimum allowed values. I'm guessing that the camber/toe combination was enough to scrub off the rubber, the tires were defective, or the 2G Genesis just tends to wear out tires that way. The car drove fine before and after the alignment, but the original Hankook tires started sounding more like snow tires after 20,000 miles. (Sorry about the mangled "table". The column spacing disappeared after posting. The L/R rear camber was -2 -2.2 before and -1.5 -1.4 after, while the total toe went from 0.2 to 0.43.)

Front Spec Min (deg) Max (deg) before (deg) after (deg)
left camber 0 -1 -0.04 -0.4
right camber 0 -1 -1.1 -0.8
left caster 7.6 9.1 8.5 8.5
right caster 7.6 9.1 8.2 8.2
left toe-in 0 0.2 0.29 0.07
right toe-in 0 0.2 0.23 0.09
total toe 0 0.4 0.52 0.16
steer ahead -0.05 0.05 0.03 -0.01
Rear Spec Min (deg) Max (deg) before (deg) affter (deg)
left camber -2 -1 -2 -1.5
right camber -2 -1 -2.2 -1.4
left toe-in 0.1 0.3 0.02 0.21
right toe-in 0.1 0.3 0.19 0.22
total toe 0.2 0.6 0.2 0.43
thrust angle -0.09 -0.01
 
I have the same issue with my 2012 R-Spec, right pull. The dealer said everything is within manufacturer's specs. The regional service manager kept the car for a whole day and swapped tires around, including pulling OEM tires from a showroom car. This still did not totally solve the problem. The regional managers' solution, put about 4 extra pounds of air in the right front tire. This helps some, but still has a right pull.
 
My 2013 V6 pulls to the right as well, even after multiple alignments. Haven't really done anything to correct it, tires haven't worn odd (I just checked when I swapped the snow tires on) with seasonal rotations so I'm not too worried about it.

But it is annoying.
 
My 2013 V6 pulls to the right as well, even after multiple alignments. Haven't really done anything to correct it, tires haven't worn odd (I just checked when I swapped the snow tires on) with seasonal rotations so I'm not too worried about it.

But it is annoying.
I had that problem until I took it to a suspension shop recommended by Costco Tire where I live. They started with the OEM alignment specs, and they did 3 test drives and made adjustments after each one until the car drove straight. OEM specs should only be a starting point, not an end point.
 
Had the same issue with my 2010 4.6. Replaced the old tires with Michelin MXM4 and experienced a right pull. Had the closest Hyundai dealer align it THREE times, still pulled to the right. The service manager gave me his standard dopey response. "They all do that". Yeah, right. Took the car to the next closest dealer, they started at the factory settings and took a little extra time to tweak the settings after driving the car. Now, after 30,000+ miles, the tires are wearing true and no pull in either direction. This includes driving after rotations every 7,500 miles.These cars WILL track straight and true, you just gotta find the right shop that will take the time and dial it in. BTW, that next closest dealer is a little further away, but he gets all my business.
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I think the biggest problem with alignments is the aligner. You can not get a good alignment from a $50,000 alignment machine if the person running it is fresh out of HS without any experience.

You need to find a shop with an alignment tech that could get the job done with a carpenters level and a piece of string, using the machine only as a aid.
 
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I think the biggest problem with alignments is the aligner. You can not get a good alignment from a $50,000 alignment machine if the person running it is fresh out of HS without any experience.

You need to find a shop with an alignment tech that could get the job done with a carpenters level and a piece of string, using the machine only as a aid.

I have actually used the string and level method after rebuilding the front end on my 65 Mustang; then took the car to a shop for alignment. To my surprise it only needed some small adjustments. I think these days some techs don't understand the geometry of suspensions on cars.
 
A pull to either side is always never good for safety and wear. It will eat tires prematurely. When the geometry is out of whack the vehicle will drift. I learned that toe wears out tires faster than camber. Caster has little effect on wear, keeping all other factors equal. A properly aligned vehicle should never drift and will track ahead and hold the line. To get the most mileage out of a set of tires, mechanics will set the toe and camber to zero and thrust as close to zero as well. This achieves the lowest friction and least wear. Caster cannot be changed in most production vehicles. Tires on rear differentials usually will have zero camber and zero toe, hence least wear.
 
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