Brake Vibration?

[ikonn]

Anyone had to take their 3.3T in for early brake service. I am noticing a vibration / shudder (generally) braking from higher speeds. I’m only at 17k km (11k miles) which seems pretty early for warped rotors or low pads.

Brakes have been great up to this point.

 

[pmckechnie]

Lug nut torque and/or heat are the number one and two reasons for brake shudder.
When I got my G80 it had a shutter in the brakes. I thought it was just from sitting and the rotors rusting and that it would go away. Well it didn't. I also noticed it had those wheel lock nuts. The original lug nuts were in the trunk. The locks had to go. When I removed them they were so tight I had to get my air wrench to get them off. I did try to remove one of them with an old torque wrench and when it went past 150 ft lbs I knew I had found my brake shutter.
I put the old lug nuts back on and re torqued all lugs and within a few days the shutter was gone.
My understanding is the wheel locks are installed at the POE or the dealer, not the factory.
If it has the wheel locks, I would have the lug nuts loosened and re torqued and if a problem is found, drive it a few days and see if it helps. Cheap test.

 

[tarhoosier]

What is the proper torque number?

Also when I bought my car there was a blister pack in the glove compartment with a set of wheel nuts (lug nuts) with one lock nut key with the star (sort of) pattern. This is necessary to remove the one lock lug nut on each wheel. Does this package come with all cars? I see there is a port option for wheel locks/nut package. Is this what I found? If it is a port option how does anyone remove their wheel without a key if it came without the package? I found no other key anywhere in the car or trunk.

 

[ikonn]

Lug nut torque and/or heat are the number one and two reasons for brake shudder.
When I got my G80 it had a shutter in the brakes. I thought it was just from sitting and the rotors rusting and that it would go away. Well it didn't. I also noticed it had those wheel lock nuts. The original lug nuts were in the trunk. The locks had to go. When I removed them they were so tight I had to get my air wrench to get them off. I did try to remove one of them with an old torque wrench and when it went past 150 ft lbs I knew I had found my brake shutter.
I put the old lug nuts back on and re torqued all lugs and within a few days the shutter was gone.
My understanding is the wheel locks are installed at the POE or the dealer, not the factory.
If it has the wheel locks, I would have the lug nuts loosened and re torqued and if a problem is found, drive it a few days and see if it helps. Cheap test.

Thanks for the informative response.

But for thousands of miles it was fine. Now, this IS the first summer and the ambient temps in Ontario are breaking record highs so maybe from that? But then again, I spent a week in South Carolina in June and temps there are not lacking... I will take the car in for them to check. Hopefully they can address it within warranty.

 

[pmckechnie]

I torque mine to 80 ft lbs. The torque as not as important as that they are all the same.
If you have the wheel locks, the key should be in the car somewhere. I found mine in the trunk.

 

[danygenesis]

I've experienced some vibrations when braking at high speeds too. It's something well known in the Stinger comunity. Remember that the Stinger GT has the same Brembo brakes as the G70. Take a look at this thread.

FAQ: Vibration under braking: warped rotors? NO!

The following is an FAQ about why your Stinger is experiencing vibration under braking. I’ve seen a lot of talk on the Facebook groups about this issue, and a lot of misinformation, and I’ve gotten tired of typing the same thing over and over again, so here’s a comprehensive FAQ that I can link...

stingerforum.org

 

[ikonn]

I've experienced some vibrations when braking at high speeds too. It's something well known in the Stinger comunity. Remember that the Stinger GT has the same Brembo brakes as the G70. Take a look at this thread.

http://[URL][URL]https://stingerforum.org/threads/faq-vibration-under-braking-warped-rotors-no.9761/

[/URL][/URL]

Thanks Dany. Must be all the trail braking I do on highway ramp exits and coming to a stop light lol!

Still a bit frustrating. I’ve had at least 3 different dealers advise me to re bed brakes for different cars over the years. On one, where the squealing was bad, they told me to expect that on ‘high performance’ pads. But I continued to complain and eventually they agreed that there was an issue and replaced everything under warranty. Since then all good, knock on wood.

For this G70, I’m taking it in and they can check and re bed if necessary. Even tho I understand the performance vs noise/longevity compromise, it just bugs me that I need to prematurely wear down the pads to fix this.

 

[danygenesis]

Thanks Dany. Must be all the trail braking I do on highway ramp exits and coming to a stop light lol!

Still a bit frustrating. I’ve had at least 3 different dealers advise me to re bed brakes for different cars over the years. On one, where the squealing was bad, they told me to expect that on ‘high performance’ pads. But I continued to complain and eventually they agreed that there was an issue and replaced everything under warranty. Since then all good, knock on wood.

For this G70, I’m taking it in and they can check and re bed if necessary. Even tho I understand the performance vs noise/longevity compromise, it just bugs me that I need to prematurely wear down the pads to fix this.

I re bedded my brakes as suggested in that thread and the vibration disappeared. I'm almost 100% sure that this my G70 has the same issue as the Stinger. I will be upgrading my brake pads in a near future. Just waiting for the rear pads to hit the market.

 

[50jae]

I re bedded my brakes as suggested in that thread and the vibration disappeared. I'm almost 100% sure that this my G70 has the same issue as the Stinger. I will be upgrading my brake pads in a near future. Just waiting for the rear pads to hit the market.

That is really useful to know. I feel a very very light shudder during braking and will use this technique when it becomes annoying enough. I really hope they make the euro-spec pads available to the US soon but I'm sure there are other aftermarket pads available that members here can recommend.

I was wondering why I didn't see as much brake dust as other cars with brembos, it makes sense now.

Edit: I wonder if using the auto hold feature during stop and go traffic will help mitigate this issue, as I recall the feature uses your parking brake.

 

[Toddasaurus]

I re bedded my brakes as suggested in that thread and the vibration disappeared. I'm almost 100% sure that this my G70 has the same issue as the Stinger. I will be upgrading my brake pads in a near future. Just waiting for the rear pads to hit the market.

Have you tried to get in touch with any of the brake manufacturers that produce the front pads? I was thinking about talking to EBC and Hawk to see what they say. I'm assuming that they'll be lazy and either A) not respond, or B) say that it doesn't need new rear pads.

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[danygenesis]

Have you tried to get in touch with any of the brake manufacturers that produce the front pads? I was thinking about talking to EBC and Hawk to see what they say. I'm assuming that they'll be lazy and either A) not respond, or B) say that it doesn't need new rear pads.

No I haven't. I'm just following the Stinger community for now. After re bedding my brake pads the vibration disappeared. I'm way beyond my first scheduled maintenance so I'm buying time. If by that time there is no rear pads in the market I will let Genesis known about this problem to see which solution they'll have.

 

[Friday]

I have absolutely zero brake dust since the car was new. I have vibration issues now at 20K.

The pads put in must be different over the course of the production runs.

My opinion is that either the pads are really different makes or the same model pads but with too much manufacturing variability.

 

[ikonn]

Update, took the car in and they said the rotors were uneven. Machined all four of them. No pad changes, no re-bedding (that I know of). They said they would replace the rotors if the vibration comes back.

For now, I think it feels better at least at normal speeds. Not like new, but definitely better.

 

[Husky]

FYI - the best price for the "Euro" pads (part numbers provided by someone in an earlier thread) I could find was on-line at Conicelli Hyundai in PA (about $205 per axle). They offer free shipping for orders over $200. They aren't stocked, but can get them in a couple of days.

 

[50jae]

FYI - the best price for the "Euro" pads (part numbers provided by someone in an earlier thread) I could find was on-line at Conicelli Hyundai in PA (about $205 per axle). They offer free shipping for orders over $200. They aren't stocked, but can get them in a couple of days.

Thanks, can you provide a link?

 

[G-875899]

Sure: Genuine OEM Conicelli Hyundai Parts & Accessories | conicellihyundaiparts.com

Man, my dealer (Autofair Hyundai of Manchester NH) is turning out to be a train wreck. First they had the car overnight, without even calling me to tell me they didn't get the work done. Then it wasn't ready today when they said it would be, then I discover, just before driving off, that they hadn't put the new inspection sticker on the car, which was one of the reasons they had it (or washed the car as they said they would). Then the icing on the cake was that they apparently hadn't even test driven it after turning the rotors. Luckily I did a short test drive before leaving to get on the highway home, only to discover a loud clunk, clunk, clunk noise coming from the left front wheel under braking. I suspect they damaged/dented the rotor. To top it off they got dirt/grease on my cream colored driver's floor mat! Jesus, putting down paper on the floor mats is "service 101". Needless to say I took it right back pretty pissed off and told them they needed to replace the rotors since they apparently don't know how to turn them properly. Took the loaner car and left. Who knows what's happening next.
The only good news is that I got them to match the best price for the new pads. If only I could get the car back with decent rotors, I should be all set.
Sorry for the rant, I had to vent.

 

[Toddasaurus]

FYI - the best price for the "Euro" pads (part numbers provided by someone in an earlier thread) I could find was on-line at Conicelli Hyundai in PA (about $205 per axle). They offer free shipping for orders over $200. They aren't stocked, but can get them in a couple of days.

You know, Husky... You're making it increasingly difficult to wait for aftermarket rear pads to become available..

 

[Husky]

You know, Husky... You're making it increasingly difficult to wait for aftermarket rear pads to become available..

Yeah, sorry about that. I just couldn't wait.
So I finally got my car back this evening. The dealer turned the rear rotors now, just in case, and had to turn the fronts a second time because they screwed up the first time. Ugh. In a gesture of goodwill they put the new Euro pads that I bought on for me, since they had messed up so much. The brakes feel great now, hopefully they'll stay that way. The pedal does feel firmer, and the brakes feel "stronger" or more aggressive.
I decided to re-torque the lug nuts when I got home, just in case. I'm sure nobody will be surprised to hear that they were all waaay over torqued at the dealer. I mean to the tune of about 125+ ft-lbs. Why?!! I set them to 85, which I believe is in the middle of the recommended range. I can only imagine how tight their "mechanic" made the oil filter.

 

[Toddasaurus]

Yeah, sorry about that. I just couldn't wait.
So I finally got my car back this evening. The dealer turned the rear rotors now, just in case, and had to turn the fronts a second time because they screwed up the first time. Ugh. In a gesture of goodwill they put the new Euro pads that I bought on for me, since they had messed up so much. The brakes feel great now, hopefully they'll stay that way. The pedal does feel firmer, and the brakes feel "stronger" or more aggressive.
I decided to re-torque the lug nuts when I got home, just in case. I'm sure nobody will be surprised to hear that they were all waaay over torqued at the dealer. I mean to the tune of about 125+ ft-lbs. Why?!! I set them to 85, which I believe is in the middle of the recommended range. I can only imagine how tight their "mechanic" made the oil filter.
Q

Nice to hear the brakes feel better with the upgraded pads! It's too bad the dealership is run by a bunch of fools. It's one big reason why I always do my own work.

Either way, I assume your brakes will be great from here on out, assuming they didn't screw up turning your rotors a second time.

 

[Husky]

Nice to hear the brakes feel better with the upgraded pads! It's too bad the dealership is run by a bunch of fools. It's one big reason why I always do my own work.

Either way, I assume your brakes will be great from here on out, assuming they didn't screw up turning your rotors a second time.

Thanks! Agreed. I normally do all my own work as well (between my cars and the extended family, I maintain 12 cars), wish I could have turned the rotors myself. I'm thinking of passing on the free 36k mile oil changes and do it myself. It's the first time in decades I've had someone else change my oil. Also, they only put in a synthetic blend.