Brake Vibration?

[EdP]

Thanks! Agreed. I normally do all my own work as well (between my cars and the extended family, I maintain 12 cars), wish I could have turned the rotors myself. I'm thinking of passing on the free 36k mile oil changes and do it myself. It's the first time in decades I've had someone else change my oil. Also, they only put in a synthetic blend.

Nothing wrong with a blend as long as it meets the specifications spelled out in the manual.

 

[Toddasaurus]

Nothing wrong with a blend as long as it meets the specifications spelled out in the manual.

There may not be anything wrong with it; but a full synthetic can be significantly better. Keep in mind that in "Severe Driving Conditions" the manual suggests you change the oil every 3k miles, and said conditions, as defined by the manual, seem just like normal every day driving to me. Personally, I wouldn't rely on some dealer who wants to save money by using the cheapest blend they can find that *might* fit the required specifications. Not every dealer cares enough to verify that, or they may even lie to you that it does.

With a full synthetic you can keep the oil in there longer in-between changes, all while protecting the engine even better. This is especially important for those of us modifying our cars. Personally, I don't understand how anyone would not want to put a good, full synthetic, oil in our engines. There's too much at stake, and it's not worth the risk of using cheap materials (filter included).

Leasers, who cares, your engine only needs to last 3 years and synthetic blend is fine for that.

 

[EdP]

There may not be anything wrong with it; but a full synthetic can be significantly better. Keep in mind that in "Severe Driving Conditions" the manual suggests you change the oil every 3k miles, and said conditions, as defined by the manual, seem just like normal every day driving to me. Personally, I wouldn't rely on some dealer who wants to save money by using the cheapest blend they can find that *might* fit the required specifications. Not every dealer cares enough to verify that, or they may even lie to you that it does.

Might? Where does that come from? It either meets the specifications or it does not. Now you are bending the truth.

The manual is rather clear on the specification. Meet it. Easy, huh. Says so right on the can. Yes or no, no wishy washy "might".

If you modify the engine, you are on your own. IMO, there should be no warranty on a modified engine as Genesis has no control over it at that point. Nothing wrong with doing it, but take on the responsibility. If I was to modify it chances are I'd use a full synthetic but the rules were changed by me.

If you are paranoid that a dealer is going to lie, do your own changes. They may put full synthetic on the sheet but how do you know they did not put cheap crap?

 

[Toddasaurus]

Might? Where does that come from? It either meets the specifications or it does not. Now you are bending the truth.

The manual is rather clear on the specification. Meet it. Easy, huh. Says so right on the can. Yes or no, no wishy washy "might".

If you modify the engine, you are on your own. IMO, there should be no warranty on a modified engine as Genesis has no control over it at that point. Nothing wrong with doing it, but take on the responsibility. If I was to modify it chances are I'd use a full synthetic but the rules were changed by me.

If you are paranoid that a dealer is going to lie, do your own changes. They may put full synthetic on the sheet but how do you know they did not put cheap crap?

Might - as in, a dealer *might* be using a synthetic blend that does not comply with ACEA A5/B5 standards. They *might* lie about using an oil that meets those standards, when it really does not. That said, how am I blending the truth?

Regarding modifications, I never said anything about the warranty. I also stated that using full synthetic is, in my opinion, the *only* way to go, *especially* when modified.

And yes I am paranoid about lying dealers, as my closest dealer has lied to me several times during negotiations, which is why I ended up buying out of state. In addition to this, speaking to their service department has also resulted in lies and misinformation on their part, thus I have no trust in them.

I already do my own oil changes on this car, along with all my previous cars.

You even made a statement that reflects my point....

They may put full synthetic on the sheet but how do you know they did not put cheap crap?

...thank you for emphasising what I've been saying all along.

 

[EdP]

Might - as in, a dealer *might* be using a synthetic blend that does not comply with ACEA A5/B5 standards. They *might* lie about using an oil that meets those standards, when it really does not. That said, how am I blending the truth?

Regarding modifications, I never said anything about the warranty. I also stated that using full synthetic is, in my opinion, the *only* way to go, *especially* when modified.

And yes I am paranoid about lying dealers, as my closest dealer has lied to me several times during negotiations, which is why I ended up buying out of state. In addition to this, speaking to their service department has also resulted in lies and misinformation on their part, thus I have no trust in them.

I already do my own oil changes on this car, along with all my previous cars.

You even made a statement that reflects my point....


...thank you for emphasising what I've been saying all along.

You stated "cheapest blend they can find that *might* fit the required specifications." You can interpret that as the oil may or may not no matter what is stated on the can. If they are using the oil specified by Genesis specs it does. The service record usually states what was used so you can check that it meets specs. If they tell you they are using synthetic but putting in used oil from Burger King fries that is a different issue. That seems to be your concern.

If the oil meets the specs though, a blend works well.

 

[Husky]

Unfortunately my dealer doesn't put that information on the service record, so I had to ask. That's when I was told it was a blend.

 

[Husky]

Thanks! Agreed. I normally do all my own work as well (between my cars and the extended family, I maintain 12 cars), wish I could have turned the rotors myself. I'm thinking of passing on the free 36k mile oil changes and do it myself. It's the first time in decades I've had someone else change my oil. Also, they only put in a synthetic blend.

Well, I've found that my brake vibration is still there, just not as bad. Today I pulled the front wheels, bolted the rotors down and checked the runout with a dial indicator. Measuring in the center of the pad-swept area of the disc, the driver's side measured 0.01" and the passenger side was 0.005". Not so good. I dread going back to these idiots, but I'm going to have to try and convince the dealer that they just need to replace the front rotors, rather than turning them AGAIN. This is what I miss about BMW. Say what you will about their price, if something isn't right they just replace it without hesitation.

 

[Toddasaurus]

Well, I've found that my brake vibration is still there, just not as bad. Today I pulled the front wheels, bolted the rotors down and checked the runout with a dial indicator. Measuring in the center of the pad-swept area of the disc, the driver's side measured 0.01" and the passenger side was 0.005". Not so good. I dread going back to these idiots, but I'm going to have to try and convince the dealer that they just need to replace the front rotors, rather than turning them AGAIN. This is what I miss about BMW. Say what you will about their price, if something isn't right they just replace it without hesitation.

Completely understandable, and I don't blame you one bit for feeling that way. Hopefully they replace them for you!! Keep us updated.

 

[ashmostro]

The biggest let-down of this car is the braking system. The US spec ceramic pads don’t belong on this car, and the euro spec pads, while an improvement, aren’t a standalone fix. The master cylinder is definitely undersized for the braking system, leading to most of the excessive brake pedal travel and lack of feel. I’m hoping in future model years Genesis will make some tuning adjustments to the relative piston sizes, and start loading up higher thermal-spec pads from the factory.

 

[NLJ]

The NA market wants things that last longer compared to performance. Look at tires for example. In Europe you get quite a few we don't have here cause they don't last as long especially winter tires.

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[ashmostro]

And that’s a sweet irony since the ceramics are generating pad deposits far inside of the service life of the rotors (or the pads, for that matter!)

 

[ashmostro]

Edit: I wonder if using the auto hold feature during stop and go traffic will help mitigate this issue, as I recall the feature uses your parking brake.

I’m fairly certain the auto hold feature uses your conventional braking system not the parking brake. Reason I think this is true is when the auto hold is engaged, try pumping the brake pedal and you will find it to be very stiff and high in the travel, which implies the abs actuator is engaged and “locked”. If the parking brake were in operation instead you wouldn’t feel that in the pedal (and you’d hear it engaging and disengaging... as well as the requisite delay to do both).

It appears the most effective solution to deal with this pad deposits issue continues to be higher-temp pads.

 

[pmckechnie]

Leasers, who cares, your engine only needs to last 3 years and synthetic blend is fine for that.

When you say something like this, stop and think about the next person that gets the car. A lot of people buy cars just off of lease. Maybe they are just cheap or maybe that is all they can afford.

I maintain my cars myself. I know they get the best. I plan to keep my current 2018, but the 2016 I turned in had all the best service it could get and who ever got or gets it will have a well maintained car. I feel good about that.

 

[ashmostro]

When you say something like this, stop and think about the next person that gets the car. A lot of people buy cars just off of lease. Maybe they are just cheap or maybe that is all they can afford.

I maintain my cars myself. I know they get the best. I plan to keep my current 2018, but the 2016 I turned in had all the best service it could get and who ever got or gets it will have a well maintained car. I feel good about that.

Amen. I feel the same way. Car karma is a thing.

 

[Toddasaurus]

When you say something like this, stop and think about the next person that gets the car. A lot of people buy cars just off of lease. Maybe they are just cheap or maybe that is all they can afford.

I maintain my cars myself. I know they get the best. I plan to keep my current 2018, but the 2016 I turned in had all the best service it could get and who ever got or gets it will have a well maintained car. I feel good about that.

Agreed - hence why I'm preaching DIY oil changes with really good oil!

 

[danygenesis]

My car continues vibrating when braking, vibration is more noticeable when the brakes are hot. Last Friday I decided to make an appointment with the dealer for today. Dropped the car off at the dealer, they offered me a loaner but they advised me they didn't have any Genesis, they told me if I was able to get a Sport Sonata or they could reschedule my appointment. I accepted the Sonata and was told to gave them a CC for a deposit. I told them that if I were going to use a Valet I wouldn't have to give them any CC. They answer me that the Valet is used for maintenence only and not for warranty services. Waiting for my Sonata I saw when they did the same thing to another G80 owner that was there for a warranty service too. This is not new to me, I'm used to the treatment of Hyundai/Genesis dealers in South Florida because I leased two Hyundai Genesis before having the G70. I was hoping things to change for the better but I was wrong. I will keep you posted when I get the car back and will let them know what they found and what was the fix.

 

[OMG70]

So by brake vibration, do we mean like a full on shudder or just some noticeable noise/pedal feel? By the latter, I mean something like what you get when ABS kicks in

 

[danygenesis]

So by brake vibration, do we mean like a full on shudder or just some noticeable noise/pedal feel? By the latter, I mean something like what you get when ABS kicks in

Shuddering when braking, you can feel it on the steering wheel. It's way more noticeable when the brakes are hot after you have been driving more than 20 minutes or when you have to brake many times in short periods of time like in a rush hour.

 

[ashmostro]

Shuddering when braking, you can feel it on the steering wheel. It's way more noticeable when the brakes are hot after you have been driving more than 20 minutes or when you have to brake many times in short periods of time like in a rush hour.

Have you tried out different pads yet? Moving away from ceramics will generally do the trick for this set of symptoms.

 

[danygenesis]

Have you tried out different pads yet? Moving away from ceramics will generally do the trick for this set of symptoms.

Thanks. I know that 90% of the time is the caramic pad residue deposited on the rotors, many Stinger owners are having the same issue but I need to corroborate the rotors are not warped from another cause. OEM Euro pads for our cars are really expensive ($400) My car is a lease and I don't want to expend too much money on it. Looking for some aftermarket pads could be the solution like Akebono or Centric Posi-quiet but let's see first what the dealer says.