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Bummer

Gravy

Registered Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2021
Messages
178
Reaction score
73
Points
28
Genesis Model Year
2019
Genesis Model Type
Genesis G90
My ‘19 3.3T spent most of the summer at the dealership on two separate appointments for the same issue. And it is about to go back again for a third time for the same issue.

Short version: the car won’t start. Longer version below.

The first time it sat at the dealer for seven weeks before anyone looked at it, Eventually they diagnosed a bad fuse box and replaced that part.

Drive it home and two days later, same problem. The car won’t start, towed back to the dealer.

I get the car back 8 weeks later. This time they say it is a bad fuel pump module. They replaced that part.

This morning I am back to square one. Car won’t start, all the same symptoms below. Tomorrow I am going to start the process with the dealer and Genesis corporate again.

I really like this car, but I have had nothing but one problem after another. There is a long list of other quality issues, including a leaking front differential (repaired), malfunctioning trunk, malfunctioning Connected Services, bad head unit (replaced), discolored radar unit (replaced twice), dead battery (replaced), and that is just off the top of my head. Starting to regret this purchase.


Step A - Normal startup attempt
  1. Parked outside overnight
  2. Approach car, approach lights turn on, side mirrors unfold
  3. Unlock car by touching handle, beeps as normal
  4. Press Start
  5. Engine turns over as normal, then stumbles, then dies
  6. Dummy Light Christmas Tree - throws every code
  7. Head Unit completely dark, no audio
  8. Exit car
  9. Cannot lock - key fob, outside door handle button, and inside door button do not work, car remains unlocked
  10. Lock car with skeleton key, but that only locks driver’s door. All other doors have to be locked manually
  11. Side mirrors stay open


Step B - Second startup attempt
  1. Approach car, approach lights don’t work
  2. Pull handle, car beeps, but does not unlock
  3. Key fob unlock does not work, but car does beep
  4. Unlock drivers door with skeleton key
  5. Press start
  6. Repeat 5-11 in Step A above
 
Try a jump start. I’m betting it’s the battery
 
Try a jump start. I’m betting it’s the battery
Nope, checked that, 12.6 volts. But I suspect that it is some sort of electrical issue.
 
Try load testing the battery. My car battery had good voltage but failed when load tested on carbon pile tester.
 
It looks like an intermittent grounding problem.......
 
You can really like the car . . . I like my car. But that doesn't make up for the lousy service model Hyundai puts out. I can't speak for standalone Genesis dealers, but the Hyundai service department really does not comprehend the Genesis. Love the car - hate the service. That should be the new slogan.
 
You can really like the car . . . I like my car. But that doesn't make up for the lousy service model Hyundai puts out. I can't speak for standalone Genesis dealers, but the Hyundai service department really does not comprehend the Genesis. Love the car - hate the service. That should be the new slogan.

100% agree.
 
So the AAA just picked up the car to bring back to the dealership. He tested the battery, read 13v.

But he suggested we try jumping anyway. Started right up and ran normally. Not sure what that means, but obviously some sort of electrical issue.

We'll see what happens with the dealer. I don't have a lot of confidence; it is basically a Hyundai/Kia operation with some Genesis stickers pasted on. Again, this is the third time at the dealer for the same issue. I think they are just swinging wildly and not really trying to solve the problem systematically.
 
So the AAA just picked up the car to bring back to the dealership. He tested the battery, read 13v.

But he suggested we try jumping anyway. Started right up and ran normally. Not sure what that means, but obviously some sort of electrical issue.

We'll see what happens with the dealer. I don't have a lot of confidence; it is basically a Hyundai/Kia operation with some Genesis stickers pasted on. Again, this is the third time at the dealer for the same issue. I think they are just swinging wildly and not really trying to solve the problem systematically.
Do you have another dealer nearby? Can I assume at least the battery terminals were checked?
 
Do you have another dealer nearby? Can I assume at least the battery terminals were checked?

Closest dealer is in Kirkland WA, about 20 miles from me in Seattle. The battery is less than one year old - I replaced the original when it was only 3 years old.

The new battery seems to hold a charge just fine.
 
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It does sound like a battery issue I had with my 2017... At the end of the day, they told me it was a bad cell and replaced the battery.
 
Dayum...that quite a rap sheet of problems you've experienced with your G90.

Your car must have been built on the Monday after the Korean New Years celebration when everyone on the Ulsan assembly line had a hangover.

I hope they gave you a decent loaner for the months you were without your car.
 
I wonder if a bad ground is causing a short or some other malfunction that would cause this array of electrical issues?
A bad ground would be an "open," not a short. It's pretty well the opposite of a short.
 
I would check the clamps on the battery terminals. They need to be really tight with the high amps the starter draws from the remote battery location. Also I would have the battery load checked. It may show the right number of volts but may not be able to provide enough amps to start the vehicle. You could also have a bad starter that is drawing too many amps.
 
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Thanks for the input All. I guess I would be surprised if it was the battery that is the root cause. I replaced the original battery less than a year ago.

Or maybe there is something about the electrical system that caused the original battery to die? 3 years on the original battery? Is that average? If not, then maybe there is a grounding issue or some other electrical issue that is impacting the battery. And maybe that issue persists.

It is at the dealer now. If I had confidence that I would get competent service at the dealer it would make a huge difference. But that ain't the case unfortunately. I'm halfway entertaining getting a 2016 LS460 AWD at this point; at least parts and mechanical expertise are abundant.
 
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I wonder if a bad ground is causing a short
To call the common return cable in a car “the ground” is a misnomer as cars are not grounded. There is no dedicated ground wire in the wiring harness.
Ground is neither plus nor minus, ground is neutral hence it cannot create a short. The car body is minus and everything is connected to the plus terminal with a single cable, there is never a pair of cables “plus and minus” used for connections to devices.

If the plus cable is attached to the battery terminal cleanly and so is the minus to the chassis (motor block)
and the battery works reliable with full capacity than the gremlins, in my humble opinion, can only be found in the wiring harness.

Now, where is that cold connection. 1667888508867.gif

Replacing the limousine is the only option.
 

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To call the common return cable in a car “the ground” is a misnomer as cars are not grounded. There is no dedicated ground wire in the wiring harness.
Ground is neither plus nor minus, ground is neutral hence it cannot create a short. The car body is minus and everything is connected to the plus terminal with a single cable, there is never a pair of cables “plus and minus” used for connections to devices.

If the plus cable is attached to the battery terminal cleanly and so is the minus to the chassis (motor block)
and the battery works reliable with full capacity than the gremlins, in my humble opinion, can only be found in the wiring harness.

Now, where is that cold connection. View attachment 49444

Replacing the limousine is the only option.
Aren't there any tools that can locate the root cause?
 
Aren't there any tools that can locate the root cause?
Not easily, intermittent problems are hard to find. Could be temperature or humidity dependent, Given the complexity of the modern automobile it could be electrical, meaning a bad wire or connection, or electronic, meaning a relay or sensor. Did they at least check for codes?
I ran a manufacturing plant. Many times I heard "it working perfectly now but it messed up yesterday. What's wrong with it?"
 
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Aren't there any tools that can locate the root cause?
None I know of.
The electric/electronic components is the Achilles' heal of every modern car these days and it is getting worse because more and more, dare I say, useless chip driven "fruit salad" is added. And it has to be cheap.

You should try to get the car replaced under warranty before it is too late, it will never be right I reckon.
 
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