Burger Motorsports JB4 high performance tuner for Genesis vehicles

[OMG70]

So is that 400+ to the wheels or at the crank?

 

[dareckibmw]

So is that 400+ to the wheels or at the crank?

Those numbers are to the wheels. At crank it could be anything ~450-480hp

 

[Beefer]

Those numbers are to the wheels. At crank it could be anything ~450-480hp

Yeah...10-15% loss to the wheels.

 

[FastEddie]

Decided to pull the plugs double check the gap make sure everything looked good some of the gaps were actually off by .001-.002

Just a little Cheeto dust on the plugs. Can you say Boostane?

 

[Vortex951]

Well, I got the car Dyno'd, and the results aren't too bad, the car had 15 minute cool downs between each run. The Ambient temperature was 91F and Humidity was 55-60%. It seems each run got progressively worse, not sure what to make of that, but the first run looks good. The guys at the shop haven't tested a G70 or stinger yet and I asked them what they thought the numbers would be. Their guess was 280hp and 300ish ft lbs at the wheels. They were quite floored at the results of the first pull.

Specs:
G70 3.3 RWD
93 Octane from Shell
JB4 - Map2
BMS Intakes
Denso Spark Plugs gapped to .022

I’m curious how much power you would make with the 93 octane on at a 30 percent mix with e85 on map 3. I’d say 335ish since that’s what bms claims on their site but still seeing it from another source would be nice. Great numbers though. Making me want to get mine on a dyno while it’s nice and cold out lol

 

[FlooF!]

Well I would hope I get a lot more then 335, since on map2 I am getting 415.

 

[dareckibmw]

I think he meant to say 435whp, lol
I wouldn't be surprised, as I was hitting 395whp/465wtq on Map3 on ~30% of E85+93 octane (I only have the JB4 tune and Denso plugs, nothing else)

 

[Vortex951]

I think he meant to say 435whp, lol
I wouldn't be surprised, as I was hitting 395whp/465wtq on Map3 on ~30% of E85+93 octane (I only have the JB4 tune and Denso plugs, nothing else)

Haha thanks for knowing what I meant. Been working 12-14 hour days and getting up at 1 am for a 3am start is obviously messing with my proofreading skills .

 

[FlooF!]

Did you gap to .022 or did you leave the Denso factory .028?

The tuning shop that did the dyno thought that .022 and 2 steps colder was way too much. I am not sure how much I trust this information as they have never worked on this platform before and BMS has been doing this longer.



Edit: I meant to Quote dareckibmw and I don't know how to fix it.

 

[Beefer]

Did you gap to .022 or did you leave the Denso factory .028?

The tuning shop that did the dyno thought that .022 and 2 steps colder was way too much. I am not sure how much I trust this information as they have never worked on this platform before and BMS has been doing this longer.



Edit: I meant to Quote dareckibmw and I don't know how to fix it.

I would trust BMS. Between the Stinger and the G70...they have been at this a while and know their shite.

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[FlooF!]

Yea, that's what I figured. I have had no issues since doing mine.

 

[Beefer]

Yea, that's what I figured. I have had no issues since doing mine.

I am at ~5k miles on my regapped Denso's...zero issues. And...I've been running BOOSTane Pro for about 4,800 of those miles.

 

[FlooF!]

Thank you for reminding me.
Can you always run map2/3 or should I only being doing that sparingly?

I seem to leave it in map2 and dog it out all the time, is that a bad thing?

 

[Beefer]

Thank you for reminding me.
Can you always run map2/3 or should I only being doing that sparingly?

I seem to leave it in map2 and dog it out all the time, is that a bad thing?

I run Map 3 with BOOSTane all the time. But I’ve settled down and get aggressive every now and then.

As a matter of fact...once the temps really drop...I will switch to Map 2 and take a break from BOOSTane until the spring.

 

[joschneider]

Thank you for reminding me.
Can you always run map2/3 or should I only being doing that sparingly?

I seem to leave it in map2 and dog it out all the time, is that a bad thing?

Terry has mentioned the only things to worry about is do not switch maps constantly since the ecu needs time to adapt. Also log some runs and post them in the JB4 forums and they can look at them to tell you everything is ok with timing and such to ensure you’re within octane limits

 

[dareckibmw]

Did you gap to .022 or did you leave the Denso factory .028?

The tuning shop that did the dyno thought that .022 and 2 steps colder was way too much. I am not sure how much I trust this information as they have never worked on this platform before and BMS has been doing this longer.



Edit: I meant to Quote dareckibmw and I don't know how to fix it.

Of course they were gapped to .022 So far so good, no issues whatsoever, the car runs like brand new, I have ~10,400 miles on the clock. I'm a happy camper.

 

[Toddasaurus]

Well, I got the car Dyno'd, and the results aren't too bad, the car had 15 minute cool downs between each run. The Ambient temperature was 91F and Humidity was 55-60%. It seems each run got progressively worse, not sure what to make of that, but the first run looks good. The guys at the shop haven't tested a G70 or stinger yet and I asked them what they thought the numbers would be. Their guess was 280hp and 300ish ft lbs at the wheels. They were quite floored at the results of the first pull.

Specs:
G70 3.3 RWD
93 Octane from Shell
JB4 - Map2
BMS Intakes
Denso Spark Plugs gapped to .022

Post this in the official Dyno thread!

Here: OFFICIAL DYNO THREAD - post your dyno charts.

Mine dyno'd at ~330whp, AWD stock. But like mentioned above, every Dyno will read differently, so it's best to get a baseline before mods if you really want to know how much power you've gained. I'm gonna head back to the same Dyno early next year once I'm all done modding - and I may be using WMI.

 

[BlackedOutG70]

Post this in the official Dyno thread!

Here: OFFICIAL DYNO THREAD - post your dyno charts.

Mine dyno'd at ~330whp, AWD stock. But like mentioned above, every Dyno will read differently, so it's best to get a baseline before mods if you really want to know how much power you've gained. I'm gonna head back to the same Dyno early next year once I'm all done modding - and I may be using WMI.

What mods do you have? Im not sure what else to do to mine I have catback exhaust, bms intakes, and JB4. Are aftermarket downpipes worth it? What else is there after these modifications?

 

[Toddasaurus]

What mods do you have? Im not sure what else to do to mine I have catback exhaust, bms intakes, and JB4. Are aftermarket downpipes worth it? What else is there after these modifications?

My dyno run was a baseline run, I did it completely stock.

Available upgrades are: Midpipes (aka secondary downpipes). Primary downpipes. Intercooler upgrade. Velossatech intake snorkels. WMI, or if you have access to e85 you can mix to e30. There are also turbo upgrades - Pure Turbo offers a hybrid turbo upgrade that still uses the stock housings. Lap3 has a turbo upgrade, but I don't know how to get it. I also read that someone upgraded to a single turbo, a GTX35 I think...

 

[jrivera68p]

According to the law, the burden of proof is on the manufacturer to prove the damage was caused by an aftermarket device. It is known as the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act - Wikipedia



HOWEVER: (speaking as someone who has been on both sides of the issue, as a customer and as a dealership/corporate representative)

The dealership is not the manufacturer, the dealership will have a dealership employed warranty specialist. This persons job is to determine whether or not the manufacturer will reimburse the dealership for proposed warranty claims, if they feel there may be an issue getting paid back they can and will deny the warranty claim.

At that point it is up to the customer escalate to the manufacturers warranty department for review, sometimes the dealerships will do this for you, but in my experience that typically leads to the manufacturers area rep siding with the dealership, it is always better for the customer to make the contact and claim themselves.

If the manufacturer's rep decides that the claim has extenuating circumstances, they can deny it, and usually will, at that point the customer's first action according to 99% of car maker warranties: is arbitration, where in the manufacturer would need to provide proof that an aftermarket device caused the issue, so yes the burden of proof is on the manufacturer at this point. If the customer loses arbitration they can sue in civil court.

There are several factors that come into play, first, if the customer loses the arbitration, they are legally bound to pay the legal fees and arbitration fees incurred by the manufacturer, same if they lose the lawsuit.

The average cost to arbitrate a claim of this nature will likely outweigh the cost of the repair if not the cost of the vehicle, a lawsuit would be 2-3 times the cost of the vehicle. As such most people won't take it to the box, therefore the burden is now on the customer, because a manufacturer can legally decline a warranty claim and leave it to the customer to seek legal action to sort it out, and typically they don't because it is cost prohibitive for most people.

Now taking it from a customer perspective, I did take Chrysler to the box and sue them for a warranty issue, my lawsuit actually resulted in a full recall for 2005-2008 Chrysler 300 5.7L and 6.1L, and Dodge Magnum/Charger 5.7L and 6.1L vehicles. it cost me $29,000 in attorney fess which Chrysler had to pay, plus repair of my vehicle which amounted to $38,000. I had significant proof of a defect in the design of the motor, it was not modified, and it did not have any tune or other aftermarket items directly related to the fail.

In the case of the Stingers, the very first thing the dealer will look at is the spark plugs, if they have been changed to colder plugs, you bet your ass they will know the car was tuned, because it is all over the forums about what is needed for these piggy back tunes.. you can also bet your ass they will look at the forums and try to find any and all threads by the customer to see if there is any pattern of using aftermarket devices.

If the dealer sees colder plugs they can’t assume you ran a tune, that’s speculation. Speculation doesn’t work on courts.