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Clutch Question

CSX4350

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I'm considering a Genesis 3.8 Track with a 6 speed manual. I found a local dealer that has one on the lot, which I went and test drove today. I was pleasantly surprised at how nice the car is, I still remember the old Excel and it seems that Hyundai has come a long way since those days.

Anyway, I'm looking for a RWD sporty car, and the Genesis seemed like a viable alternative to the usual choices. But when I drove it I found the clutch to be horrible, it engaged virtually on the floor. I couldn't get it moving without killing it, and couldn't make a smooth shift to save my life. I have 13 manual transmission cars, mainly classic muscle cars, so it's not me. I don't think I could get used to this. I'm assuming the clutch is hydraulic so there's no adjusting it.

My question is, is this low engagement normal? The salesman was, as usual, pretty much clueless and they didn't have another one for me to drive to compare it to.
 
Yes, it is normal and they all do it...as does mine. I too have owned many manual transmission vehicles over the years, and this is the most "difficult", if you will, car to drive. I can't wait to get rid of this POS and get a real car!!!!
 
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Boy, this forum's server really sucks! It's taken two days to get back in and look for replies.

Thanks for the input, that clutch is a deal breaker so I'll cross the Genesis off my list.

I really don't want another Mustang or Camaro though...
 
Well, haters gonna hate. There's a whole forum for GC haters and ricers, and this is not it.

Mine's got the same clutch and same M6 transmission. Just like any other car and any other transmission, it takes getting used to. I've had no problems. If you can't drive it smoothly, don't blame the car.
 
WOW, thanks for making me feel welcome...

I'm probably a lot older than you and have driven literally hundreds of manual transmission cars over the past 40 years. I have my SCCA racing license, and among others right now own 4 Shelby vintage racers and the first Ariel Atom ever made. I have never, NEVER driven a car with clutch engagement like what I drove a few days ago. I'm have no doubt I could get used to it. However, since I have a large collection of cars having one that's radically different would bite me in the butt hard, and probably at a really bad time.

Since I've been told to take my "hatred" elsewhere, I'll leave now. The administrators may delete my user information, if they would be so kind. I appreciate the warmth and kindness that this forum has shown me...
 
Manual transmission vehicles I have owned, and driven with no problem:

81 Celica GT
84 Celica GT-S
88 Toyota Supra
97 S-10 4.3L
05 GTO
06 GTO
08 Infiniti G37
11 Mustang GT

Manual transmission vehicles I have owned/own, and have had/have problems with:

10 Genesis Coupe 3.8 Track

You're right....it's the driver....not the car....:rolleyes:
 
I've got a 2011 Genesis Coupe (3.8 Track 6 speed).

No issues with it. Mine doesn't grab as quick as others, evidently. The only issue I've had is when I get back in my truck (GM 5 speed manual) I sometimes go to looking for 6th gear and the noise reminds me I'm not in the coupe.

I like my 6 speed. Lots of fun. And I've "killed" my truck (2005 GM 4.8 V8 with a 5 speed manual and 1981 Z28 (350 V8 with a 4 speed manual) way more times than I've "killed" the coupe. I've killed the coupe 2 or 3 times getting into the garage. I stop and try to ease up over the edge of the apron from the gravel and I have to be paying attention to the rpms.

Sorry you guys are having issues. Its not the smoothest shifting manual transmission car I've ever had (that was a 1976 Pontiac with a 5 speed) but it'll do me the rest of driving life (maybe another 20 years if I'm lucky).
 
Even a hydraulic clutch setup has adjustments. There is generally a pedal freeplay adjustment on the pushrod (link between the pedal and the clutch master cylinder) just like you'd find on the brake pedal. If this pushrod is adjusted to have too much freeplay then the clutch will grab/bite with the pedal barely off the floor; when really bad the clutch may not fully release to allow shifting - i.e. the clutch will be dragging a little bit so engine RPMs will still be influencing transmission input... leading to grinding synchro sounds. In such mis-adjusted cases, the first inch or more of clutch pedal push travel will be really soft/easy.

I don't know the details of the Genesis Coupe but normally the adjustments are:
1: a stop bolt, or often an electrical switch (part of the cruise control cutoff/disable), that defines the pedal "up" travel.

2: a threaded rod and a "jam nut" to hold the threaded rod in position once adjusted.

Normal service procedures are to adjust the pedal top surface (tangent to the rubber pad) distance to the floor (not carpet) via the stop bolt/switch. Then the freeplay is adjusted to a small amount (typically a few millimeters to about 12 millimeters max - or roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch). Freeplay is measured with just a little pedal force - press with your pinky finger, not your foot. Tighten the jam nut while holding the threaded rod still; it'll want to twist/turn as the nut is tightened.

Edit: additional common problems leading to issues smoothly shifting - especially pulling out from a red light/stop sign - on hydraulic clutch setups are small leaks in either the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder. The clutch hydraulics basically work normally while shifting... but when you push the pedal and hold it for a while - waiting for that green light - the slow leak rears its ugly head and the hydraulic pressure bleeds off and the clutch begins to grab... or is a lot closer to grabbing than you're expecting leading to a mis-timed clutch+throttle pedal motion and thus a stalled engine. If your clutch fluid reservoir seems to slowly bleed down this is likely the problem. Old fluid in the system picks up fine grit from the atmosphere; this grit is sandpaper to the rubber seals. On the slave cylinder, the pushrod end typically has a rubber bellows to seal the pushrod to slave cylinder body. When this bellows wears out and splits/tears, road grime gets into the slave and kills it pretty quickly. If you've ever driven in a grass field (like parking at some outdoor event) it's possible some weeds or twigs snagged the seal, ripping a perfectly good one apart or off the slave cylinder.


mike c.
 
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