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coolant change

I'm fully capable of navigating our own webpage. Just because it lists 5, doesn't mean there are only 5.
 
I'm fully capable of navigating our own webpage. Just because it lists 5, doesn't mean there are only 5.
I guess it doesn't really matter how many different formulas of anti-freeze that Zerex makes (or sells), it matters which should be used for the Hyundai Genesis (the subject of this thread).

It looks like a Silicate Free, Phosphated HOAT formula is the one specified by Hyundai, and the one that should be used. Zerex makes one like that specifically for Asian cars, and Hyundai dealers sell the OEM coolant that is also like that. I would not recommend using one of the other Zerex formulas not specifically designed for the Hyundai or other Asian cars.
 
Thank you for all the replies. I checked with my dealer and they want $149 to change the coolant. Is the radiator drain accessible with the shield removed during an oil change? I'd rather drain and refill the radiator every 2-3 years at home if possible. The car has only 5140 miles on the odometer.
 
I'm curious also.

I recently, (July 21017),had my coolant and trans fluid changed at the dealership.

64,000 miles on my 2013 3.8L Sedan.

The coolant change was only $134.95 not including tax.
 
BUMP: Wondering what happened to your drain and refill on the 2011 sedan. Did you find out how to access the drain underneath? I don't see any youtube videos anywhere yet.
 
If you are lucky to have access to a dehumidifier (for your basement, etc) you can access all the distilled water you need. I have a 1996 38' Diesel Pusher RV that uses 23 GALLONS of COOLANT, so I have to use CAT specific coolant (or CAT approved).

Coolant can be coolant if you are talking about SILICATE free coolants. Most engines now have aluminum blocks and parts and it's imperative to use a silicate free coolant. However if you are REALLY feeling froggy and want to get rid of water-based coolants altogether for your Genny, consider a water-free COOLANT.


Evans Waterless Coolant is just such an animal. I use it in my Suzuki motorcycle and absolutely love it. I'm considering it for my Genny...

Evans waterless coolant, prevent engine overheating
 
Sorry to bring this old thread back up.

I bought a 2011 genesis 4.6 in March 2019. Dealer did a full inspection on the car before it was sold. I trusted them and had never checked fluid levels on the genesis (oil/coolant/brake fluid etc) until today.

This morning, I found that the coolant reservoir was near empty. The fluid level was way below the L line. Surprisingly, the car does not throw any indicator light for low coolant. Temperature gauge has never gone beyond the mid line either.

See pictures attached.

Now, I am not sure what the problem is. I did not see any leaks or pool of coolant underneath the car. More than likely, the dealer failed to check the coolant level on the car during inspection.

Can there be a bigger problem than a neglectful dealership technician?
 

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Sorry to bring this old thread back up.

I bought a 2011 genesis 4.6 in March 2019. Dealer did a full inspection on the car before it was sold. I trusted them and had never checked fluid levels on the genesis (oil/coolant/brake fluid etc) until today.

This morning, I found that the coolant reservoir was near empty. The fluid level was way below the L line. Surprisingly, the car does not throw any indicator light for low coolant. Temperature gauge has never gone beyond the mid line either.

See pictures attached.

Now, I am not sure what the problem is. I did not see any leaks or pool of coolant underneath the car. More than likely, the dealer failed to check the coolant level on the car during inspection.

Can there be a bigger problem than a neglectful dealership technician?
Anything here is just speculation. Did you check the radiator? Evidently there is enough fluid in the system to keep the engine cooled properly. It may have been missed by the tech, or it may have been filled and leaked.

Is there a bigger problem? Can't say since we don't know if it was ever checked since the car was built.

Get the proper coolant and fill to the top level. If the system is low, it may go down quickly and that is normal. Check it a couple of times to be sure. Don't get excited if it goes down after the first cycle or two as it may just be filling a void in the system and then stabilize. If you want to check the level in the radiator be sure it is cool when you open it.

Keep an eye on it and see what happens. It is possible you have a very slow leak someplace. It may be the coolant container, thermostat gasket, heater hose and a bunch of other places.
I had a car that after while never had coolant in the reservoir. Never found where it went but I'd fill it and it would be gone in a week. I left it empty and drove the car for two more years like that. Your car is eight years old and plastic and rubber parts subjected to many heating cycles can have some porosity and lose fluids and not be easily seen.
 
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Anything here is just speculation. Did you check the radiator? Evidently there is enough fluid in the system to keep the engine cooled properly. It may have been missed by the tech, or it may have been filled and leaked.

Is there a bigger problem? Can't say since we don't know if it was ever checked since the car was built.

Get the proper coolant and fill to the top level. If the system is low, it may go down quickly and that is normal. Check it a couple of times to be sure. Don't get excited if it goes down after the first cycle or two as it may just be filling a void in the system and then stabilize. If you want to check the level in the radiator be sure it is cool when you open it.

Keep an eye on it and see what happens. It is possible you have a very slow leak someplace. It may be the coolant container, thermostat gasket, heater hose and a bunch of other places.
I had a car that after while never had coolant in the reservoir. Never found where it went but I'd fill it and it would be gone in a week. I left it empty and drove the car for two more years like that. Your car is eight years old and plastic and rubber parts subjected to many heating cycles can have some porosity and lose fluids and not be easily seen.

Thank you EdP. I really hope there wont be any leaks after topping it off.
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Sorry to bring this old thread back up.

I bought a 2011 genesis 4.6 in March 2019. Dealer did a full inspection on the car before it was sold. I trusted them and had never checked fluid levels on the genesis (oil/coolant/brake fluid etc) until today.

This morning, I found that the coolant reservoir was near empty. The fluid level was way below the L line. Surprisingly, the car does not throw any indicator light for low coolant. Temperature gauge has never gone beyond the mid line either.

See pictures attached.

Now, I am not sure what the problem is. I did not see any leaks or pool of coolant underneath the car. More than likely, the dealer failed to check the coolant level on the car during inspection.

Can there be a bigger problem than a neglectful dealership technician?

I discovered that the reservoir in mine was also basically empty in Feb of this year. I've had the car for close to 3yrs and never actually took the trouble to wrench my neck and see the level. Like you, the car ran fine without any warnings. Thinking there must be a leak, I filled it and watched it for a month. Other than one small top up due to a suspected burp it hasn't changed its "cold" level ever since.
 
the coolant reservoir is not a direct indicator of how much coolant is actually in the cooling system, if it is low but you can still see some in the reservoir then the radiator is most likely still full. the coolant reservoir is more of just an expansion tank the coolant expands into when the engine gets hot and draws from after it cools down. Like the post above if you aren't having cooling issues just top the reservoir off and keep an eye on it over the next few days to add if needed and make sure it maintains it's level.
 
so......open open the radiator cap and check the coolant level in the radiator. It possible, suction out a sample coolant and observe. If any doubt, just do a coolant change. Pretty simple.
 
The coolant is water based and water evaporates over time from the reservoir due to the flip-up cap not having a seal on it. I had the same issue on my 2012 3.8 when I bought it. Brought it up to the fill line 2,000 miles ago and it's still right on the line now. You're reservoir, however, is looking like it has some nasty fluid in it. I would drain the system and fill it with fresh coolant.
 
The thread got sidetracked so much the original poster probably gave up on this, lol.

WHERE is the valve to empty the radiator tank - the OP was asking.
 
If you are lucky to have access to a dehumidifier (for your basement, etc) you can access all the distilled water you need. I have a 1996 38' Diesel Pusher RV that uses 23 GALLONS of COOLANT, so I have to use CAT specific coolant (or CAT approved).

Coolant can be coolant if you are talking about SILICATE free coolants. Most engines now have aluminum blocks and parts and it's imperative to use a silicate free coolant. However if you are REALLY feeling froggy and want to get rid of water-based coolants altogether for your Genny, consider a water-free COOLANT.


Evans Waterless Coolant is just such an animal. I use it in my Suzuki motorcycle and absolutely love it. I'm considering it for my Genny...

Evans waterless coolant, prevent engine overheating
Water collected by a dehumidifier IS NOT the same as distilled water.
It will cintain metal ions as the water precipitates on copper and or aluminum fins,
Spend the darn 98 cents and buy a gallon
 
The thread got sidetracked so much the original poster probably gave up on this, lol.

WHERE is the valve to empty the radiator tank - the OP was asking.
Not gonna lie some times we all really suck at just answering simple questions lol
 
I’m flushing coolant soon as part of maintenance performed along with an alternator needing replacement this weekend. The vehicle has 126k on it so the timing is rather excellent. From removing the coolant overflow reservoir, e-fans and shroud, headlight cowl, airbox, and alternator/bracket I can tell you with certainty that the radiator has no petcock valve. However, the lower radiator hose and water pump is readily accessible with everything I have out already for the repair.

My concern is how I’d handle a run cycle to circulate water through the block for a complete flush without a drive belt or alternator installed (and thus in the way). I’ll update this post with the procedure I used after progressing further. My initial thoughts are on finding the engine block coolant drains and opening as well as opening the lower hose, and pulling the water pump and overflow reservoir as the best option to drain completely. That should get the vast majority of coolant out and then I’ll just do a refill and burp.

We will just have to see how well this goes by measuring the volume of the removed coolant. So, pitter patter.
 
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