Crushed oil filter

[Mark_888]

The 2 crushed filters were the only ones they had at the auto parts store when I bought them I don't remember if they were Puralator or not but they were what was available. I bought the Puralator filter from a different auto parts store. I will update what comes out on my next change.

Even if it is the same as the first one, I would switch to the OEM filter if I were you. The Hyundai OEM filters are about $7 at a dealer. The new ones for the 2012+ V8 only have white end caps, and are about $11 and are made by Mahle for Hyundai.

Some people may claim that the new white ones made by Mahle are backward compatible on the 2009-2011 V8, but I am not so sure, so I would stick to the $7 one. If the Purolator filter in your engine now looks like the one in the Amazon link I provided, it is identical to the OEM filter (black plastic end caps with green O-rings inside on both ends). These filters are made by Mann for Hyundai and also rebranded for most after-market suppliers.

Since I change my own oil, I purchased my filters in bulk quantities (along with air fitters and cabin filters at the same time to save on shipping) from this site:
http://www.newhyundaiparts.com/
This site is run by Hilton Head Hyundai in South Carolina. You can call their parts department and get the same folks that run the online site.

 

[homeofstone]

Even if it is the same as the first one, I would switch to the OEM filter if I were you. The Hyundai OEM filters are about $7 at a dealer. The new ones for the 2012+ V8 only have white end caps, and are about $11 and are made by Mahle for Hyundai.

Some people may claim that the new white ones made by Mahle are backward compatible on the 2009-2011 V8, but I am not so sure, so I would stick to the $7 one. If the Purolator filter in your engine now looks like the one in the Amazon link I provided, it is identical to the OEM filter (black plastic end caps with green O-rings inside on both ends). These filters are made by Mann for Hyundai and also rebranded for most after-market suppliers.

Since I change my own oil, I purchased my filters in bulk quantities (along with air fitters and cabin filters at the same time to save on shipping) from this site:
http://www.newhyundaiparts.com/
This site is run by Hilton Head Hyundai in South Carolina. You can call their parts department and get the same folks that run the online site.

FYI My 2011 4.6 built in June of 2010 came from factory with the white end filter made by Mahle and is the only kind of filter I have ever used in 97,000 miles.

 

[Catharpin]

Even if it is the same as the first one, I would switch to the OEM filter if I were you. The Hyundai OEM filters are about $7 at a dealer. The new ones for the 2012+ V8 only have white end caps, and are about $11 and are made by Mahle for Hyundai.

Some people may claim that the new white ones made by Mahle are backward compatible on the 2009-2011 V8, but I am not so sure, so I would stick to the $7 one. If the Purolator filter in your engine now looks like the one in the Amazon link I provided, it is identical to the OEM filter (black plastic end caps with green O-rings inside on both ends). These filters are made by Mann for Hyundai and also rebranded for most after-market suppliers.

Since I change my own oil, I purchased my filters in bulk quantities (along with air fitters and cabin filters at the same time to save on shipping) from this site:
http://www.newhyundaiparts.com/
This site is run by Hilton Head Hyundai in South Carolina. You can call their parts department and get the same folks that run the online site.

Thanks Mark. I do like to buy my filters in bulk for my truck/vette/long term cars but this is the car of my better half. She never keeps them that long, 2-3 oil changes max. However, this one seems to be impressing her on the long term so I might need to stock up.

 

[shagnat]

Thanks Mark. I do like to buy my filters in bulk for my truck/vette/long term cars but this is the car of my better half. She never keeps them that long, 2-3 oil changes max. However, this one seems to be impressing her on the long term so I might need to stock up.

So, I'm curious. How did the last filter look when you changed your oil? Please give us an update. I bought a Wix filter for my upcoming oil change and just a little paranoid if I should return it or use it.

 

[Mark_888]

So, I'm curious. How did the last filter look when you changed your oil? Please give us an update. I bought a Wix filter for my upcoming oil change and just a little paranoid if I should return it or use it.

If you post a pic of it, we can tell you if it is OK. Most likely it is identical to the OEM filter. Hyundai does not make the OEM filter.

 

[ShadowZ]

How long do you generally go between oil changes?

It would seem that pressure is crushing the filter, usually by heavy contamination and by being in the vehicle for too long.

I operate a service center and see this frequently in vehicles that are neglected by their owners/drivers. Especially those who think that synthetic oil "lasts longer" in their vehicle.

 

[Philth]

Synthetic oil does last longer than conventional.

I go 7,500 mile oil change intervals; the maximum allowed by the owner's manual.

 

[Mark_888]

How long do you generally go between oil changes?

It would seem that pressure is crushing the filter, usually by heavy contamination and by being in the vehicle for too long.

I operate a service center and see this frequently in vehicles that are neglected by their owners/drivers. Especially those who think that synthetic oil "lasts longer" in their vehicle.

I don't think that is the issue here. I also don't think it is a coincidence that the crushed oil filter in the picture is not the OEM filter, nor is it a clone of the OEM filter (some of the after-market Genesis filters are sourced from the same company that makes the OEM filter).

 

[shagnat]

How long do you generally go between oil changes?

It would seem that pressure is crushing the filter, usually by heavy contamination and by being in the vehicle for too long.

I operate a service center and see this frequently in vehicles that are neglected by their owners/drivers. Especially those who think that synthetic oil "lasts longer" in their vehicle.

I'll be Benjamins to donut holes that synthetic oil lasts longer than dino oil with conditions being identical. Let's put up or shut up!

 

[ShadowZ]

I'll be Benjamins to donut holes that synthetic oil lasts longer than dino oil with conditions being identical. Let's put up or shut up!

What is your definition of "last longer?"

It does hold up to higher temperatures, it does have a lower pour point, and it does reduce friction better than conventional.

Conventional motor oils, like synthetic motor oils, do not break down unless pushed beyond their conditional ratings. You should always follow your manufacturer's recommendations for service. I take special exception, for example, to manufacturers who tell me I only need to change my differential oil after 150,000 miles. (in those cases I change them earlier)


A direct quote from the oil company I work for:
Q: Can you go longer between oil changes if you use a synthetic blend or full synthetic motor oil?
A: Synthetic or synthetic blended oils are not intended to extend oil change intervals. These oils are recommended for use in harder working engines and to assist with gas mileage, not to extend service intervals beyond what the manufacturer recommends.

I do not want to sit here and have a debate about oil, or the use of the word "dino" in place of conventional seeing as all motor oil comes from crude. There are too many people in this world who's minds you can not change.

I will leave with these pieces of advice:

1. No matter what oil you use, change it according to your manufacturer's SEVERE service recommendation.
2. Synthetic and synthetic blend oils will help your engine last longer.
3. Use an OE or better oil filter.

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[Mark_888]

What is your definition of "last longer?"

It does hold up to higher temperatures, it does have a lower pour point, and it does reduce friction better than conventional.

Conventional motor oils, like synthetic motor oils, do not break down unless pushed beyond their conditional ratings. You should always follow your manufacturer's recommendations for service. I take special exception, for example, to manufacturers who tell me I only need to change my differential oil after 150,000 miles. (in those cases I change them earlier)


A direct quote from the oil company I work for:
Q: Can you go longer between oil changes if you use a synthetic blend or full synthetic motor oil?
A: Synthetic or synthetic blended oils are not intended to extend oil change intervals. These oils are recommended for use in harder working engines and to assist with gas mileage, not to extend service intervals beyond what the manufacturer recommends.

I do not want to sit here and have a debate about oil, or the use of the word "dino" in place of conventional seeing as all motor oil comes from crude. There are too many people in this world who's minds you can not change.

I will leave with these pieces of advice:

1. No matter what oil you use, change it according to your manufacturer's SEVERE service recommendation.
2. Synthetic and synthetic blend oils will help your engine last longer.
3. Use an OE or better oil filter.

There is absolutely no hint or suggestion that anyone in this thread (including OP) has gone beyond (or suggested that go beyond) the oil change interval as required by Hyundai to maintain warranty coverage. So any discussion about how long synthetic oil will last is superfluous and has nothing to do with the reason why the oil filter was crushed.

 

[homeofstone]

There is absolutely no hint or suggestion that anyone in this thread (including OP) has gone beyond (or suggested that go beyond) the oil change interval as required by Hyundai to maintain warranty coverage. So any discussion about how long synthetic oil will last is superfluous and has nothing to do with the reason why the oil filter was crushed.

I agree. I used a cheap aftermarket filter once in my Mercedes and it was found crushed when being changed. Only one ever crushed and I change oil every 5000 miles.

 

[ShadowZ]

I was simply asking the OP how long he had gone, because I have seen these results in vehicles going beyond recommended intervals. Hence my statements.

I completely agree that the quality of the oil filter can be the cause of this problem, but I do think there may be other factors involved on a case by case basis.

 

[Ron5.0]

Why not use the oem filter. Its a $30k to $40k luxury car, why risk ruining an engine to save 3 to 6 dollars each oil change.

correct, this is a very simple fix. spend the extra bucks. use oem. always the best choice.

about a year ago, hyundai released that noise from egine compartment, dont know exactly where and how, but more then normal noise was caused by aftermarket filters, especially in elantra and sonatas. so i say use oem.

i just started using synt mobil 1, still use oem filter.

 

[Reloader15]

I bought a Fram oil filter, the material around the center hole on both ends are hard, the stock filter is soft and can center its self. I put a fram in and then took it out a minute later and it was crushed. The design of Hyundai filters are for this reason since you can only push the filter onto one male part from either end. I thought the OEM looked cheap until I investigated further.

 

[Reloader15]

I usually use a Fram or K&N, but I find that these brands "CRUSH" also, these filters have a hard opening on each end, it's impossible to place the filter onto both male stems before tightening the filter housing. Therefore alignment suffers, and the the filter is crushed. The OEM filter has a somewhat soft entrance on each end allowing self centering to happen.

 

[Reloader15]

I had the same thing happen with the hard plastic end filters, some how, when you slide it on either the engine side or the filter housing side, the filter tips down due to the length. Then the tube on the open side hits the hard plastic end and instead of being able to push its self into the center, like that of the "paper" end filter, it pushes the hard plastic until the filter tears. If the "tubes" were longer the filter could be inserted on both ends while engaging the housing onto the threads. One way of getting by this is removing that small drain plug on the filter housing, pushing the filter all the way in on the engine side, then by using something to push the filter up (thru the drain hole), so the housing tube can align with the center of the filter while screwing in the housing...

 

[kn5owa]

I had the same thing happen with the hard plastic end filters, some how, when you slide it on either the engine side or the filter housing side, the filter tips down due to the length. Then the tube on the open side hits the hard plastic end and instead of being able to push its self into the center, like that of the "paper" end filter, it pushes the hard plastic until the filter tears. If the "tubes" were longer the filter could be inserted on both ends while engaging the housing onto the threads. One way of getting by this is removing that small drain plug on the filter housing, pushing the filter all the way in on the engine side, then by using something to push the filter up (thru the drain hole), so the housing tube can align with the center of the filter while screwing in the housing...

These so-called "cartridge filters" are wonderful - aren't they.

 

[Mark_888]

These so-called "cartridge filters" are wonderful - aren't they.

Works fine if you buy the OEM filter, which is made for Hyundai by Mahle, who also makes the oil filter module/housing.

 

[kn5owa]

I usually use a Fram or K&N, but I find that these brands "CRUSH" also, these filters have a hard opening on each end, it's impossible to place the filter onto both male stems before tightening the filter housing. Therefore alignment suffers, and the the filter is crushed. The OEM filter has a somewhat soft entrance on each end allowing self centering to happen.

I think this post comes closest to explaining the "crushed filter" mystery.

On the 5.0, there is a filter post in the filter housing affixed to the engine and another post in the end cap which screws onto the fixed housing.

If the filter is not precisely aligned onto both posts - it will be crushed. Probably one should slide the filter onto the end cap post and then screw both components into the filter housing - with a small prayer that the other end of the filter perfectly aligns and slides onto the filter housing post.

On the 2015 5.0, at least, this process is somewhat facilitated by the fact that the filter is almost "square" -- i.e., it is 3" tall, and 3 5/16" in diameter. The taller the filter - obviously - the harder it is to align the filter on both posts.

All in all, it is a sorry design. If you had your car upside down on a bench, it would be one thing. But working on the floor, it's a bear. Maybe that's the reason, on my car, they hide the whole thing with two splash panels and lots of push pins.

*** I'm assuming from the relevant posts in the thread that the filter mounting procedure is about the same for the 4.6 and the 5.0. And, on my car, at least, no matter who makes the filter - that baby is gonna get crushed unless your aim is pretty good before cranking down the filter cap.