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DRL/parking light intensity

okcguy

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Genesis Model Type
2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)
I've had my '16 for a few months now. I like the DRL strips by themselves but hate the low beams coming on when going thru overpasses or pulling into the garage since they'll just be switched off within seconds (shortens bulb life). So I've just been running the parking lights as often as possible. However I was disappointed the LEDS strips are pretty dim.

Today I noticed they're much brighter when set to AUTO (low beams off, sun out). Has anyone figured out a way to keep the same intensity from the AUTO setting to the parking mode? I hate having to switch the lights to parking or to off anytime the low beams are about to fire up for brief periods.
 
Today I noticed they're much brighter when set to AUTO (low beams off, sun out). Has anyone figured out a way to keep the same intensity from the AUTO setting to the parking mode? .
How much do you figure the life is shortened? Not something I'd be concerned about. I'd want to see real numbers before changing wiring.
 
How much do you figure the life is shortened? Not something I'd be concerned about. I'd want to see real numbers before changing wiring.

I'm not sure of specific data showing controller life cycles or halogen gas breakdown. However for someone who parks in a garage, this adds 2 additional cycles (start up, return home). At say, 5x week for 45 wks/yr, this would add a significant count to all the components over time simply leaving/parking in the garage, not counting any other situations where the low beams would be tripped briefly along the way.

The DRLs should have 2 current modes. I just wonder which module would be controlling that output.
 
Eh, the start counts are really insignificant for modern xenarc systems. You could run 1000's of start cycles without issue, the ballast and ignitors aren't like the first gen systems that would cold start a warmed up lamp every time.

The cold start is the only real load on the lamp/ignitor, warm starts are like normal running.

If you consider that you should replace the lamps every 4 years or so regardless of use level, shortening their 5000hr burn time is nothing to worry about.
 
I have bright LED strips when I’m in park mode.....
 
I'm not sure of specific data showing controller life cycles or halogen gas breakdown. However for someone who parks in a garage, this adds 2 additional cycles (start up, return home). At say, 5x week for 45 wks/yr, this would add a significant count to all the components over time simply leaving/parking in the garage, not counting any other situations where the low beams would be tripped briefly along the way.

The DRLs should have 2 current modes. I just wonder which module would be controlling that output.
Over 5 years it can easily be 12,000 cycles, but, is that a bid deal? If the MTBF for the component is 50k or 100k cycles, it amounts to no concern.

I've heard of people not using turn signals until the last minute so they don't wear out the blinker. How often have you replaced one? I did on my '53 Mercury back about 1966.

Good luck, if it works for you, do it.
 
Over 5 years it can easily be 12,000 cycles, but, is that a bid deal? If the MTBF for the component is 50k or 100k cycles, it amounts to no concern.

I've heard of people not using turn signals until the last minute so they don't wear out the blinker. How often have you replaced one? I did on my '53 Mercury back about 1966.

Good luck, if it works for you, do it.

I apologize if this topic has gone more towards a negligible wear on components. This is more of a desire to run the brighter parking lights (DRLs) solely in overcast or darker conditions without tripping the HIDs.
 
I apologize if this topic has gone more towards a negligible wear on components. This is more of a desire to run the brighter parking lights (DRLs) solely in overcast or darker conditions without tripping the HIDs.

You can't get the system to maintain bright mode without being in Auto. Since your lighting options are Headlight, Parking, Auto or DRL OFF. You're looking for a 5th option which isn't equipped nor is it necessary. The Auto light levels are set to the minimum acceptable lighting condition for which DRL is allowed, the dimmer/darker overcast conditions should have running lights on anyway.

The only way to get bright LEDs all the time would be to reprogram the lighting controller.
 
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I apologize if this topic has gone more towards a negligible wear on components. This is more of a desire to run the brighter parking lights (DRLs) solely in overcast or darker conditions without tripping the HIDs.
OK, but will tail light still come on? Sounds like you want an interim setting before headlights are really needed.
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I park in a garage at work, a garage at home, and I drive tree canopy-covered streets on my way to and from work...my lights are constantly cycling on and off during my drive. I had to replace one of my xenons after 2 years of ownership, so your fear isn't completely unfounded. bumper removal is required unless you are willing to brave loosening a philips screw inside the housing to get the old bulb out.

My old BMW, left the auto lights off since the DRLs would kick in regardless. Never had to swap a Xenon bulb in 8 years and 100k miles. Had the same Osram brand bulbs that are in the Genny.
 
I apologize if this topic has gone more towards a negligible wear on components. This is more of a desire to run the brighter parking lights (DRLs) solely in overcast or darker conditions without tripping the HIDs.


the voltage that brightens or dims the DRLs is handled by the ECM, unless you feel like reprogramming the ECM to maintain full voltage to the DRLs at all times, your only option is to cut them and rewire them yourself to a constant 12v power supply.

the dimming is a result of the computer reducing voltage to their controller from 12v to 5.3v when the lights are on.

there are several threads discussing this:

 
the voltage that brightens or dims the DRLs is handled by the ECM, unless you feel like reprogramming the ECM to maintain full voltage to the DRLs at all times, your only option is to cut them and rewire them yourself to a constant 12v power supply.

the dimming is a result of the computer reducing voltage to their controller from 12v to 5.3v when the lights are on.

there are several threads discussing this:


Somewhere here I read a post about moving a brown wire from one connector in the headlamp to another to get bright LED strips. I can't find it with search though.
 
My headlights come on early sometimes (my perception) when it's a little cloudy sometimes or I go under a large overpass - when I'm in Auto (2015). If I dont want this to happen I just turn DRL to OFF and turn my fog lights on if I'm wanting some light up front.
 
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