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Engine falls flat on it's face

the only thing I've noticed with ESC off is that the car limit actually becomes LOWER and it cuts the power EARLIER on the street, if the car goes up a hill and then down, it wants to spin the wheels, with ESC off it cuts power, with ESC on I don't notice much.

I mean, turning off ESC actually makes things worse...sounds like the opposite of helpful.
 
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Well it happened again . I have been driving with the traction control off to see if it would stumble. Well sitting in a left hand turn lane with 50mph traffic oncoming found an opening and nailed it stumbled again . So we can eliminate that. This is my wife's ride so I don't get a chance to drive it that often .......
 
I'd guess that one of the yaw or lateral g sensors might be going haywire. Or maybe the wiring going to one. Hard to say though.
 
i noticed more pain with all season tires on vs summer. Didn't realize how much traction I gained until I switched to A/S and tires chirp at pretty much anything, turns at almost any speed with over 20% power and I've up sized the tires to 245/45.

Hopefully AWD fixes the traction issues which in turn will eliminate VSA nanny role.
 
I'd guess that one of the yaw or lateral g sensors might be going haywire. Or maybe the wiring going to one. Hard to say though.

I would assume the sensor would be taken out of the mix when you shut off the traction control.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I have the same problem and figured I would bring the thread back to life.

I was dang near t-boned last Friday when trying to make a left turn at a light. I saw an opening in traffic, so I started rolling. Opening was there, and I punched it with no response for at least 2 seconds. After barely making it through without getting killed, I unleashed many 4-letter words directed at my car.

I only have this problem when going very slow and punch it. I haven't noticed it when at a complete stop or when going 45+mph and trying to pass a car.

Has anyone come up with a good solution other than manually downshifting? My car is an automatic, so I'm not thinking about shifting manually when I'm trying to make it into traffic safely. Has anyone heard of a fix from Hyundai?

I really hope Hyundai isn't waiting for a few deaths to determine that maybe this is an issue that needs to be fixed, similar to what GM is going through right now.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I have the same problem and figured I would bring the thread back to life.

I was dang near t-boned last Friday when trying to make a left turn at a light. I saw an opening in traffic, so I started rolling. Opening was there, and I punched it with no response for at least 2 seconds. After barely making it through without getting killed, I unleashed many 4-letter words directed at my car.

I only have this problem when going very slow and punch it. I haven't noticed it when at a complete stop or when going 45+mph and trying to pass a car.

Has anyone come up with a good solution other than manually downshifting? My car is an automatic, so I'm not thinking about shifting manually when I'm trying to make it into traffic safely. Has anyone heard of a fix from Hyundai?

I really hope Hyundai isn't waiting for a few deaths to determine that maybe this is an issue that needs to be fixed, similar to what GM is going through right now.

It has something to do with G forces, at least on mine. The power delay happens most often in this situation:

When I am at an intersection and press the accelerator to move up closer to the intersection and then, briefly, hit the brakes in order to slow down and assess the traffic situation -- then, after maybe one second, when I depress the accelerator again so as to take off, the engine completely bogs for a second or two. Very disconcerting, to say the least, when trying to zoom away in heavy traffic.

Now, another peculiar characteristic of this car is that, when driving on cruise control, I've noticed that if I am going around a turn that is generating significant lateral force, the cruise control seems to disengage and the car slows, either until after the turn or when the car slows down enough that the G force is reduced. This also occurs whenever the car encounters jolting type bumps in the highway -- the cruise control will apparently shut off and the car will slow.

I also did take off pretty fast coming out of a corner the other day, and as I was still turning a bit and as the speed was increasing, some lateral force was building, and at about 45 mph the engine flat cut out for a split second, creating a big bang noise and jerk as the engine resumed making power. Again, it seems related to G forces.
 
Well that kinda makes sense. Most youtube supercar fail videos show idiots punching the throttle in their high horsepower RWD cars while taking corners. Followed shortly thereafter with fishtailing and the car ending up somewhere it shouldn't be.

The combination of the slow 8-speed tranny's downshifts/kickdowns from 4th or 5th gear to 2nd, moderate to high lateral-G, and high bursts of torque are a recipe for disaster.

Nevertheless, a COMPLETE cut to power by the TCU/ECU is overkill.
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I have found it is improved while driving in town to turn off ESC. I agree with above on what it thinks is the situation with G-force, speed, where it plays god. They need a firmware update.

ESC off helps. It will allow the tires to break lose when turning a corner quickly from stop. It still will kick in at times. I find it better way to not be surprised. Let me know if it helps for you.
 
That Nanny ESC is really waaaay too "sensitive". I think it's a really big hazard and can only imagine there have been some accidents due to this Nanny ESC. I've given up on flooring my Genny to use all the power available for ANY reason. All it does is plant my face into the windshield and puts terror on the faces of my passengers and those of the on-coming cars that I may be trying to get through before my car gets T-boned.

Yup, all it would take is a firmware update and it should happen. I understand the reason behind ESC and think it's good thing, but, not when it's over-done.
 
At the risk of starting a flame war reading this thread tells me a significant number of drivers are depending upon their cars when perhaps they shouldn't be testing the laws of physics quite so closely.

If you need to "floor it" in normal driving you are asking for trouble - especially in those left turns. My car is able to quickly execute a right or left turn from a complete stop without giving it full throttle and, in fact, with the horsepower on tap in this car that would be very foolish even on dry pavement.

Take it easy. Slow down and don't test the limits of your driving expertise. It isn't worth the risk.
 
^ The only "flat on it's face" car I've driven lately is a Chev. Cruze.
 
This is a torque to the wheels issue. At certain RPM's the car does not deliver the power. It could be fixed or at least mitigated by computer control modifications, but, so far, nothing from Hyundai. My dealer says that is just how they perform. Actually mine performs quite similarly to a small 4 cylinder C Class Mercedes. The only "fix" I've found is to operate the car in manual mode when you need dependable acceleration. That is, manually pull the car down into 2nd, 3rd, etc. when power is needed. Do not depend on the computer controlled transmission to rapidly provide the torque needed. This, I've found, can be quite dangerous.
 
This is a torque to the wheels issue. At certain RPM's the car does not deliver the power. It could be fixed or at least mitigated by computer control modifications, but, so far, nothing from Hyundai. My dealer says that is just how they perform. Actually mine performs quite similarly to a small 4 cylinder C Class Mercedes. The only "fix" I've found is to operate the car in manual mode when you need dependable acceleration. That is, manually pull the car down into 2nd, 3rd, etc. when power is needed. Do not depend on the computer controlled transmission to rapidly provide the torque needed. This, I've found, can be quite dangerous.

I tell myself that every time "after" my car bogs down upon hard acceleration. But, when the time comes to use the power, my two brain cells slip into neutral. ;)
 
This is a torque to the wheels issue. At certain RPM's the car does not deliver the power. It could be fixed or at least mitigated by computer control modifications, but, so far, nothing from Hyundai. My dealer says that is just how they perform. Actually mine performs quite similarly to a small 4 cylinder C Class Mercedes. The only "fix" I've found is to operate the car in manual mode when you need dependable acceleration. That is, manually pull the car down into 2nd, 3rd, etc. when power is needed. Do not depend on the computer controlled transmission to rapidly provide the torque needed. This, I've found, can be quite dangerous.

Well, in what my car is doing, the problem is that the engine has gone to idle after I have gotten to the intersection and will not increase the RPMs for a good second or two. You can read my full description above to see what it is doing. So, yes, I'd agree that at idle there is very little torque to the wheels!:mad:
 
I know this is an old thread, but I have the same problem and figured I would bring the thread back to life.

I was dang near t-boned last Friday when trying to make a left turn at a light. I saw an opening in traffic, so I started rolling. Opening was there, and I punched it with no response for at least 2 seconds. After barely making it through without getting killed, I unleashed many 4-letter words directed at my car.

I only have this problem when going very slow and punch it. I haven't noticed it when at a complete stop or when going 45+mph and trying to pass a car.

Has anyone come up with a good solution other than manually downshifting? My car is an automatic, so I'm not thinking about shifting manually when I'm trying to make it into traffic safely. Has anyone heard of a fix from Hyundai?

I really hope Hyundai isn't waiting for a few deaths to determine that maybe this is an issue that needs to be fixed, similar to what GM is going through right now.
Hmm taking your case into consideration it sounds like this is more of a transmission / throttle mapping issue than a ESC issue..

A car that is unresponsive is a hazard. And having test driven the Genesis it really is "unresponsive"
Whats the point of 429hp if you can't use them in a critical situation?
 
I have the same problem in my "09 v8 Genesis. I push 2 buttons when I get in the car, the start and ESC Off buttons. Turning the ESC off helps a little, but the hesitation on hard acceleration is still there.
 
Maybe it's my butt not being sensitive enough, but, I cannot tell any difference with ESC on or off....... ESC light still comes on under hard acceleration from stop or very low speeds if I floor it. It is totally over nannied !!!!!!!!!
 
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