• Car enthusiast? Join us on Cars Connected! iOS | Android | Desktop
  • Hint: Use a descriptive title for your new message
    If you're looking for help and want to draw people in who can assist you, use a descriptive subject title when posting your message. In other words, "I need help with my car" could be about anything and can easily be overlooked by people who can help. However, "I need help with my transmission" will draw interest from people who can help with a transmission specific issue. Be as descriptive as you can. Please also post in the appropriate forum. The "Lounge" is for introducing yourself. If you need help with your G70, please post in the G70 section - and so on... This message can be closed by clicking the X in the top right corner.

First 2016 Genesis Oil Change-Topside

jimbo1mcm

Registered Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
97
Reaction score
18
Points
8
Did my first oil change from the topside. Used my 27mm socket and my shop compressor oil evacuator. The evacuator got just about all the oil out through the dipstick.

After the oil was evacuated I unscrewed the filter using the 27mm. It was difficult to work in the confined area. I did put a small tray under the filter and got out about 5 tablespoons as the filter came out.

Screwed in the new filter but I was unable to have enough room for a torque wrench so just gave it the tighten then another 1/4 turn. Leaked check okay.

Next time I will put the car up on ramps and remove the front engine protector. Should make it a lot easier and I will be able to torque it to specs.

Took about 7.2 quarts. Used Quaker State Ultimate Synthetic 5-30
 
Just my opinion, but I think torqueing the plastic filter housing on the Genesis to "specs" is not really necessary, and probably not even wise.
 
Just my opinion, but I think torqueing the plastic filter housing on the Genesis to "specs" is not really necessary, and probably not even wise.
The only time in my life that I used a torque wrench was when I rebuilt a V8.

But, then, I've many decades of hands on experience.
 
I always use a torque wrench on lug nuts (loosen and re-tighten). I discovered many years ago that this prevents warped rotors.
 
Just my opinion, but I think torqueing the plastic filter housing on the Genesis to "specs" is not really necessary, and probably not even wise.

I really don't follow your logic. The engineers design housings and o rings to design specs. A published torque setting is the correct tightening. Can you explain why you think it is not wise?
 
I really don't follow your logic. The engineers design housings and o rings to design specs. A published torque setting is the correct tightening. Can you explain why you think it is not wise?
The only problem I see is the accuracy of DIY torque tools the average person uses....Harbor Freight type tools just don't cut it.
 
Looking to update and upgrade your Genesis luxury sport automobile? Look no further than right here in our own forum store - where orders are shipped immediately!
The only problem I see is the accuracy of DIY torque tools the average person uses....Harbor Freight type tools just don't cut it.

One way to compensate for potential inaccuracies is to set the torque setting to a slightly higher value than the factory setting. The important thing is to get the lug nuts equally tight and at least to the factory specs.
 
I really don't follow your logic. The engineers design housings and o rings to design specs. A published torque setting is the correct tightening. Can you explain why you think it is not wise?
No they don't always do that. The plastic housing screws into the base, and is not anything like a metal bolt and nut. All you need to do is turn it until it is obviously screwed in and gently firm. Once it is in all the way, no further torque should be applied.

As to why it is not wise to use a torque wrench on the oil filter cover, there is always a danger that a torque wrench is not working properly or not calibrated. In other cases that would just result in an over-tightened bolt or nut, but in this case you could have a broken oil filter cover since it is made of plastic.
 
I really don't follow your logic. The engineers design housings and o rings to design specs. A published torque setting is the correct tightening. Can you explain why you think it is not wise?

Assuming we are talking about the so-called "cartridge filter" arrangement, the filter "cap" is a plastic cap as Mark said, and is tightened as such - until it stops rotating. It only takes a couple of lb-ft of torque to do that. And, of course, the O-rings should have been oiled.

Yes, the shop manual, in my case, calls for a range of 17=>20 lb-ft of torque. Way too much - and could damage the cap/housing. This is typical of shop manuals - they are not to be trusted.

My owner's manual also calls for the wearing of "proper shoes" before driving the car (p. 5-9) --- Yeah, right -- I'll do that, too.
 
kn5owa My owner's manual also calls for the wearing of "proper shoes" before driving the car (p. 5-9) --- Yeah said:
Actually, that's good advice; my aunt destroyed a 1967 Austin Healey 3000 Mark III when her foot, clad in a '70s platform shoe, slipped off the brake pedal and she rear-ended the car in front of her (she was not hurt).

Man, I wish I had that car now. I was only a kid, but I loved that car. And now they're way above my paygrade.

Now back to the oil change thread.
______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!
 
Back
Top