Fuel Filter Change: step by step

[PSL]

"Unfortunately, the old filter went out with the recyclables last week, so I don't have that on hand any more to take more pictures of, if you were looking for some additional angles or views of it."

Too bad, I really wanted to look inside that filter housing. Having been a shade-tree mechanic most of my life, I am intrigued. Thanks anyway, and congrats on the replacement of the fuel filter. That can be an intimidating task for most.

 

[zman2012]

I finally mustered the courage because of the good instructions in this thread and replaced the fuel filter in my 2009 4.6 yesterday. It all went well.

However, today the car logged the codes P2191 (for bank1) & P2193 (for bank2) meaning "System Too Lean at Higher Load" after I drove it about 15 miles. Did anyone have this issue? Any input is appreciated. Thank you.

 

[MADDMOE]

....i need this thread & info ....My 09 4.6 is about ready for this TLC.......

 

[gatorbaitor]

I finally got around to changing the fuel filter today on my 2009 Genny 4.6L sedan. I gotta wonder what the engineers at Hyundai were thinking of when they designed this. It would have been so much easier to put a standard fuel filter somewhere along the fuel feed line OUTSIDE of the fuel tank. The procedure turns out to be not all that difficult for anyone who's mechnically inclined. It just seems intimidating.

Step 1 - Safety first. Make sure you've got a fire extinquisher on hand that's rated for a fuel fire and make sure you're working in a well ventilated place with no sources of ignition around.

Step 2 - Remove the rear seat cushion: remove the two 13mm bolts that you'll find between the seat cushion and the back cushion, pull up on the lower front edge of the seat cushion to disengage the front brackets, and then pull it foward to remove it (see red circles in JPEG #1)

Step 3 - Remove the six Phillips head screws on the fuel pump access panel on the left side behind the driver's seat (see yellow circles in JPEG #1)

Step 4 - Disconnect the electric pump wiring connector (see red circles in JPEG #2)

Step 5 - Start the motor and let it run until it conks out (this helps to bleed pressurized fuel from the fuel feed line) and then turn off the ignition.

Step 6 - Disconnect the suction hose and the fuel feed line (see green circles in JPEG #2). Have plenty of rags ready as there will still be some residual pressure in the line. I had about a ounce of fuel squirt out when I disconnected the fuel feed line even after turning over the engine several times after it conked out.

Step 7 - Remove the eight Phillips head bolts (see the yellow circles in JPEG #2) and the black retaining ring. JPEG #3 shows the fuel pump assembly with everything disconnected and removed just prior to lifting it out of the fuel tank.

Step 8 - Carefully lift the fuel pump assembly out of the fuel tank. Again, have plenty of rags to catch the drips and spills. You'll need to rotate the pump back as you lift it out to clear the fuel sender arm and float. JPEG #4 show the fuel tank with the fuel pump removed and JPEG #5 shows the fuel pump assembly on my garage floor.

Step 9 - Disconnect the electric pump and fuel sender connectors, remove the fuel sender arm, remove the assist pump, disconnect the fuel feed tube, remove the electric pump/pre-filter, remove the fuel pressure regulator, and remove the top plate. If you look carefully at the pump, you'll see all the connectors and clips that need to be disconnected to take the fuel pump assembly apart. A couple of small flat head screw drivers will help with unclipping all the clips and a small hooked tool will be helpful to remove the O-rings from the old filter. Bottom line - take your time and don't force any of the clips or connectors. You certainly don't want to break one. JPEG #6 shows the fuel pump assembly completely broken down (the fuel filter is the white plastic part in the upper right). Make note of all the parts in the picture and make sure you've removed them from the old filter element before you re-assembling the new filter.

Assembly is the reverse of the above steps. When you re-insert the fuel pump assembly back into the fuel tank be carefull that the green gasket seats properly . Overall, this should run you around 30 minutes to an hour to complete.

If you're interested in seeing how to change the fuel tank air filter, go to my post here: Fuel Tank Air Filter / Fuel Filter

Great help for novices like me. Thanks. But I am concerned about removing the two fuel lines from the fuel pump assembly on my 2014 5.0 R-spec. I don't know how the discharge line connector is deactivated. I did lift the 'brown' looking end piece but can't figure out whether I just then tug on the line or have to do more to release the line.
Cheers.

 

[SixFootSix]

Great help for novices like me. Thanks. But I am concerned about removing the two fuel lines from the fuel pump assembly on my 2014 5.0 R-spec. I don't know how the discharge line connector is deactivated. I did lift the 'brown' looking end piece but can't figure out whether I just then tug on the line or have to do more to release the line.
Cheers.

To discharge most of the pressure and fuel from the line you can remove the 20amp fuel pump fuse from the engine bay passenger side. Run the engine until it dies, and then remove the negative battery cable. Have absorbent rags handy and expect less than 1/2 cup of gas to spray out.

Have eye protection on, and your rag ready. Lift the brown piece and then push in on the blue/green piece as your carefully pull it off.

 

[pmckechnie]

Over the years, I have come to the conclusion that fuel filters don't need to be replaced if the engine is running good and no check engine lights.
Think about this. Filters are made and used to catch any foreign particles from the gas so it won't plug the other things in the fuel system (like fuel injectors). If the gas you buy is clean, a filter is not needed. However sometimes something will get in the tank and the filter takes care of it.
Now lets say that the manual says to replace the filter at 50K miles but all the gas you have put in was clean. Great, you are ready for another 50K. You go the next day for gas and get dirty gas and your car stops a few miles down the road. Did that new filter do anything that the old filter could not do? No. So, the new filter didn't help at all.
So, I say "If the engine is running great and there are no check engine lights, leave the filter alone and let it do its job."

 

[OlderGuy1stGenesis]

I'm just about to clock 38K miles.

I changed the fuel filter per the service interval recommended in the owner's manual, which calls for it at 37.5K miles

==================================================================================================How much did that cost ?

 

[mganon98]

I asked several people about the fuel filter and fuel tank filter and even pointed it out in the manual. I got the same answer every time. Unless you're having a problem, it's not worth changing them in newer cars.
I'm a big believer in ounce of prevention pound of cure but not sure about this one.

I agree with this approach too. Hopefully, it helps that we have always used high quality gas.