• Car enthusiast? Join us on Cars Connected! iOS | Android | Desktop
  • Hint: Use a descriptive title for your new message
    If you're looking for help and want to draw people in who can assist you, use a descriptive subject title when posting your message. In other words, "I need help with my car" could be about anything and can easily be overlooked by people who can help. However, "I need help with my transmission" will draw interest from people who can help with a transmission specific issue. Be as descriptive as you can. Please also post in the appropriate forum. The "Lounge" is for introducing yourself. If you need help with your G70, please post in the G70 section - and so on... This message can be closed by clicking the X in the top right corner.

G70 aftermarket brake pads

I just ordered EBC BlueStuff front and rear last week. I looked into the YellowStuff, and there were some indication that apparently the latest compound is no longer recommended for track use. Even though most of my driving is taking-it-easy daily driving, being able to handle Track/AutoX is a must. If the BlueStuff wears a bit faster, generates more dust and maybe even make a little more hiss, I'm okay with that.

Not sure the stock status, but I'm in no huge hurry to change pads for the time being. We'll see.
 
Are those for the non-Brembo G70s? And are those 'low dust', or just factory replacements? Hopefully the former. Thank you.
 
Hi All - I'm new here. Have had my 2020 G70 3.3T AWD for a few years now and just came to the point of needing to replace my pads and rotors (pulsation in the front and back and the pads are thinning).

Dealership and a local tire shop both quoted me around ~$2300 for parts and labor for all OEM parts. Are there any agreed upon cheaper aftermarket options that won't strongly affect performance?

Any help is much appreciated, thanks!
 
Hi All - I'm new here. Have had my 2020 G70 3.3T AWD for a few years now and just came to the point of needing to replace my pads and rotors (pulsation in the front and back and the pads are thinning).

Dealership and a local tire shop both quoted me around ~$2300 for parts and labor for all OEM parts. Are there any agreed upon cheaper aftermarket options that won't strongly affect performance?

Any help is much appreciated, thanks!
...read through the thread.
 
Good news, The Dynamic Friction 5000 series front pads I put on seem to be a solution working for me. It's only been about 15-30 miles but I noticed a difference immediately and the rotors are getting cleaner every time I drive the car. So far I would recommend these pads to someone looking for a cost effective solution.
 
Hi All - I'm new here. Have had my 2020 G70 3.3T AWD for a few years now and just came to the point of needing to replace my pads and rotors (pulsation in the front and back and the pads are thinning).

Dealership and a local tire shop both quoted me around ~$2300 for parts and labor for all OEM parts. Are there any agreed upon cheaper aftermarket options that won't strongly affect performance?

Any help is much appreciated, thanks!
That's insane. I would consider half of that number to be close for all four sets of pads and rotors. Sheesh.
Yeah, there's lots of info in this thread and at least one other on brakes. Depending on what you buy, the aftermarket pads (or the very pricey factory "Euro" pads) will be a big improvement on the factory ceramics. You'll just have to live with more brake dust.
 
Sounds like the one they tried to pull on me ($500 per corner just for the pads, I ended up doing it myself for <1/10 of that price). If your car is still under warranty, I would insist to get it covered by the warranty. They changed the front rotors under warranty in my case (they should have change the pads too but they tried to pull their shenanigans). I know several other people who had their rotors replaced under warranty. For pads, rockauto has a few decent option, including Brembo. Personally I went with Powerstop (Z23) and they are OK. It is an easy job to do yourselves but a decent independent shop should be able to do that for you for a fraction of the insane price the dealer quoted you.
 
I have a 2019 G70 Design, same issue with pad deposits as everyone else. Ordered a set of Hawk Performance HPS 5.0 pads (front and rear) from knsbrakes.com ($220 for all 4 corners). Will install this weekend, break them in, and report back.
 
Ordered a set of Hawk Performance HPS 5.0 pads (front and rear) from knsbrakes.com ($220 for all 4 corners). Will install this weekend
Hey, would you mind letting us know how you managed changing the rear pads, with the electric parking brake? It's supposed to be put on some kind of 'service mode', but maybe there's a way around that without the diagnostic tool to do that. Just curious. It'd be greatly appreciated if you could post the procedure you used, to know if it's possible to change them without that step. Thank you.
 
Hey, would you mind letting us know how you managed changing the rear pads, with the electric parking brake? It's supposed to be put on some kind of 'service mode', but maybe there's a way around that without the diagnostic tool to do that. Just curious. It'd be greatly appreciated if you could post the procedure you used, to know if it's possible to change them without that step. Thank you.
That's where I hope the ThinkDiag (recall the other thread we have been talking on) comes in. It offers (in theory, have to see if it will work on my G70) the ABS bleed function.

This is a page from the Kia Stinger service manual, and the ABS bleed is the only service mode thing I see listed.
 
Hey, I just checked your 2019 G70, and you DO have the 'brake pad change mode' under 'ABS' and 'special functions', here: https://h5.thinkcar.com/coverage/de...=HYUNDAI&pdtType=1&lang=EN&type=2&product=141 . And 'HCU air bleeding mode' is right below it. Unfortunately, that ThinkDiag only covers G70s until 2020, so not sure it'd work at all on my 2023. And if it does, maybe just the basic OBD2 functions? However, my 2022 Santa Fe is listed, so might buy it soon (it's $110 now). Both vehicles are under 'Hyundai', so I'd only have to pay $50/yr for the software, correct? Thanks man, and glad to help you out a little. Ha ha. Let me know how it goes with both functions. Take care. By the way, I never do ABS bleeding, since always change the fluid every 2 years max. But not a bad idea to do it.
 
They do list the 2022 G70 in their compatibility list. I will report back on the 2 functions, and whether any other functions that may be useful work as well. Resetting the transmission adaptives comes to mind.
 
Looking to update and upgrade your Genesis luxury sport automobile? Look no further than right here in our own forum store - where orders are shipped immediately!
Really? The functions each vehicle has only go to 2020, as you'll be able to see on the link I posted for you. And even if 2022s work, would my 2023 work? I know it's the same crap as a '22, but maybe the software shuts down when it doesn't cover the appropriate year? Curious about that, but will be hard to find proof. Ha ha. I'd have to be the first to try it. If you report good results, might do it sooner, rather than later :).
 
I've got a couple of motorcycle-specific OBD2 utilities that have ABS bleed functions. GS911 for BMW and DealerTool for Triumph. While they are nice to have, bleeding the trapped fluid behind the ABS valves isn't absolutely necessary. For one thing, the volume of trapped brake fluid isn't great, compared to the rest of the system. Also, while being trapped and isolated does prevent that volume of fluid from being bled out, it also means that it isn't exposed to moisture contamination, like the rest of the open lines.

Regardless of whether the ABS bled function is available or not, it is far more important that the rest of the brake system fluid is refreshed. We just bled our '21 G70 6MT, using good ol' fashion manual pump-n-dump. The original fluid was still basically clear. Not surprising, since we've only had it for a year. But, with a couple of track days coming up, where we'd be doing multiple 25min track sessions each, I didn't want to take any chances with old fluids in the system. Wet fluid boiling point can be substantially lower than dry. We went with racing DOT4 brake fluid that has dry boiling point close to 600F.

This YT vid is good for visualizing the trapped fluid:
 
I've got a couple of motorcycle-specific OBD2 utilities that have ABS bleed functions. GS911 for BMW and DealerTool for Triumph. While they are nice to have, bleeding the trapped fluid behind the ABS valves isn't absolutely necessary. For one thing, the volume of trapped brake fluid isn't great, compared to the rest of the system. Also, while being trapped and isolated does prevent that volume of fluid from being bled out, it also means that it isn't exposed to moisture contamination, like the rest of the open lines.

Regardless of whether the ABS bled function is available or not, it is far more important that the rest of the brake system fluid is refreshed. We just bled our '21 G70 6MT, using good ol' fashion manual pump-n-dump. The original fluid was still basically clear. Not surprising, since we've only had it for a year. But, with a couple of track days coming up, where we'd be doing multiple 25min track sessions each, I didn't want to take any chances with old fluids in the system. Wet fluid boiling point can be substantially lower than dry. We went with racing DOT4 brake fluid that has dry boiling point close to 600F.

This YT vid is good for visualizing the trapped fluid:
Agree on flushing out the old fluid. I read that Audi recommends fluid replacement every 2 years.

Which is why I have a liter of new Motul 600 brake fluid to go with the pads.
 
It should be done every 2 years tops on EVERY vehicle that uses brake fluid. If I lived in a humid climate, I'd do it more often, but living in the dry desert (most of the time, anyway), it's okay every 2 years. The reason is brake fluid absorbs moisture, which can rust your expensive brake system components internally. I'd only activate the ABS pump if I suspected air in the system, or if I took a lot longer interval than 2 years, and fluid was dark. And that's independent of mileage, AND from the build date, not when you bought it :). I bought a brand new 2020 BMW motorcycle with 0 miles, but it was close to 2 years since build date, so bled the brakes with 50 miles on the clock. The clutch uses mineral fluid, so no need to bleed that one at all. And even though I have a GS911 tool to activate the ABS pump, didn't use that (only to reset the service interval), since there's no air in the system at all.
 
I installed the Hawk Performance HPS 5.0 pads this weekend on my G70 Design Editions (with electronic parking brake). Here’s what I found:

No “service mode” was required for the brake pad swap and rotor dismount. All I had to do was make sure the parking brake was off before turning the car off.

Resurfacing the rotors was simple: i used a DA grinder/buffer with a 120 grit sanding pad - as directed by the Hawk Performance pad install instructions.

Brake bleed was done (fluid that came out was about the same color as the new fluid, so it must have been done before I bought the car last year) in the normal manner, with the variation of having to bleed first the inner then the outer bleed screws.

Once I have a couple of hundred miles on the new pads I’ll report back with my impressions.
 
I installed the Hawk Performance HPS 5.0 pads this weekend on my G70 Design Editions (with electronic parking brake). Here’s what I found:

No “service mode” was required for the brake pad swap and rotor dismount. All I had to do was make sure the parking brake was off before turning the car off.

Resurfacing the rotors was simple: i used a DA grinder/buffer with a 120 grit sanding pad - as directed by the Hawk Performance pad install instructions.

Brake bleed was done (fluid that came out was about the same color as the new fluid, so it must have been done before I bought the car last year) in the normal manner, with the variation of having to bleed first the inner then the outer bleed screws.

Once I have a couple of hundred miles on the new pads I’ll report back with my impressions.
Did you use a diagnostic scanner when bleeding the brakes? From what I remember, you need to put the vehicle in a special mode via a tool before bleeding.

Others have run into braking issues (subpar performance) when bleeding the brakes without using a tool.
 
Back
Top