G70 aftermarket brake pads

[ejguillot]

I didn’t use a scanner, and haven’t had any issues post bleed. Caveat: I didn’t bleed to eliminate any air in my system, I bled to replace the brake fluid.

 

[Volfy]

If your brakes were working fine before bleeding your brake, not having an ABS bleed mode won't cause any problems. All it would do is not flush out the small volume of fluid trapped behind the closed ABS solenoid valves. Whenever you subsequently trigger ABS, the valves will open and the "old" fluid will circulate and intermix with the newer fresh fluid, so it will be effectively flushed anyway. See my post #336 above.

The biggest caution when bleeding brake fluid is not to let the fluid level in your master cylinder reservoir go down too low and suck in air. You will definitely have problem then and will need to bleed out your master cylinder, which can be a PITN to do. It's not a big deal, as long as you remember to top off the reservoir frequently as you bleed each corner. Pour in the fluid slowly so as not to kick up air bubbles, and you'll be fine.

FWIW, when we bled the brakes of our '21 G70, there were some small bubbles that came out of the rear calipers. must have been there from the factory. Front calipers I didn't see much, if any, bubbles coming out. It's yet another good reason to bleed your brake fluid periodically.

 

[JCtx]

No “service mode” was required for the brake pad swap and rotor dismount. All I had to do was make sure the parking brake was off before turning the car off.

Hey, could you please elaborate on that? I have 2 questions. First, were you able to push the piston in without any issues? If yes, what happened when you first applied the parking brake? I think the tool resets it so it's barely away from the pads, so when EPB is applied, it clamps the rotors. If you didn't use the tool, the electric motor might turn it, but since pads were retracted, they'd never clamp the rotors. Or maybe the system is smart enough to not stop rotating until it feels the required clamping force, meaning the EPB would 'whirr' for a second or two initially, until it clamps the rotors. So what is it? Just curious, to make sure there's nothing required there, since it's supposed to be necessary, according to the service manual somebody posted once (which is not always correct). Thank you.

From what I remember, you need to put the vehicle in a special mode via a tool before bleeding.

That has never been the case. The only action you can take during bleeding is to activate the ABS pump's piston, which is not necessary unless you have air in the system, and/or you had contaminated fluid, for not bleeding it regularly. That's why I like to do it regularly.

 

[ejguillot]

Hey, could you please elaborate on that? I have 2 questions. First, were you able to push the piston in without any issues? If yes, what happened when you first applied the parking brake? I think the tool resets it so it's barely away from the pads, so when EPB is applied, it clamps the rotors. If you didn't use the tool, the electric motor might turn it, but since pads were retracted, they'd never clamp the rotors. Or maybe the system is smart enough to not stop rotating until it feels the required clamping force, meaning the EPB would 'whirr' for a second or two initially, until it clamps the rotors. So what is it? Just curious, to make sure there's nothing required there, since it's supposed to be necessary, according to the service manual somebody posted once (which is not always correct). Thank you.


That has never been the case. The only action you can take during bleeding is to activate the ABS pump's piston, which is not necessary unless you have air in the system, and/or you had contaminated fluid, for not bleeding it regularly. That's why I like to do it regularly.

On the G70, apparently the lower trims were supposed to have a foot pedal parking brake option (like the Stinger, and as seen in my 2019 G70 owner's manual). Accordingly, the parking brake is the miniature drum brake in the rear disc rotor setup, as seen in this (from http://www.kstinger.com/electric_parking_brake_epb_-614.html ) pic:



Releasing the parking brake made it easy to remove the brake rotor, and the parking brake isn't tied to the main brake caliper.

I was able to push in both pistons without too much trouble, here's how I did it: With pins removed and pads in place, I pried on one pad to push it away from the rotor, pushing in the pistons on that side. I then placed a thin screwdriver between pad and rotor to keep the gap open, then pried on the other pad to push those pistons back into the caliper. Remove the screwdriver and the pads slid right out, no issues. No marks on the rotor either, if you take some care when you're prying.

 

[Husky]

It's nice when the parking brake is separate from the regular brake caliper.

 

[JCtx]

Accordingly, the parking brake is the miniature drum brake in the rear disc rotor setup

That was awesome help; thank you very much. I think the manual G70s were the only ones with a manual parking brake, but that explains the ancient 'drum-in-disc' setup. And yes, even though it's weaker, I MUCH prefer that setup, since it doesn't affect the rear calipers at all. Most of us would never need to remove the rotor, so it's like the vehicle didn't have EPB. Thanks again for providing that link. And yes, to push calipers in, you just have to rotate the caliper both ways (sideways) before removing; no need for any screwdrivers or such... unless something is blocking such movement. But it's not a big deal either way. No wonder it sounded so weird, quick... and weak. Ha ha.

 

[ejguillot]

That was awesome help; thank you very much. I think the manual G70s were the only ones with a manual parking brake, but that explains the ancient 'drum-in-disc' setup. And yes, even though it's weaker, I MUCH prefer that setup, since it doesn't affect the rear calipers at all. Most of us would never need to remove the rotor, so it's like the vehicle didn't have EPB. Thanks again for providing that link. And yes, to push calipers in, you just have to rotate the caliper both ways (sideways) before removing; no need for any screwdrivers or such... unless something is blocking such movement. But it's not a big deal either way. No wonder it sounded so weird, quick... and weak. Ha ha.

Rotate the caliper? Can you elaborate? (I've seen setups where you have to screw the pistons in to retract them. That wasn't the case with the Brembo calipers.

 

[JCtx]

I meant to rotate the caliper side to side, so the rotor actually pushes the piston(s) in. Makes sense? That's the way I always do it on both cars and bikes.
But with electric parking brakes with an actuator on the caliper itself (like the great majority of vehicles nowadays), which are just 1-piston calipers, you indeed need to 'unscrew' the piston to retract it, hence needing a scan tool to do it. Fortunately, the G70 doesn't have that system, but the SF does. There might be a manual way to do it, but don't know yet, It doesn't even have 1K miles yet, so I'm years away from that, so no worries now.

 

[Volfy]

EBC Blue stuff finally arrived.

 

[MichaelJohnson]

EBC Blue stuff finally arrived.
View attachment 48292

Nice! I look forward to reading your "review".

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[ejguillot]

Now that I’ve had the Hawk Performance pads installed for a couple of weeks, my initial impression is a favorable one. Even though I haven’t had the time to do the proper bedding in procedure, the pads have worked well with good braking grip (had to relearn applying the brake pedal, as these brake harder with the initial pedal press) and no vibration or shudder at all. Only downside so far (when the brakes are cold)is a slight to moderate creaking/groaning noise from the pads under light braking as the last bit of stopping is done, and a much more muted version of the same noise when slowly releasing the brake pedal. When the brakes are warm, the noise almost disappears.

Pretty happy so far.

 

[Husky]

Good to know, thanks for the report.

 

[Volfy]

Sounds like the Hawk HPS 5.0 works well.

I'll get the EBC bluestuff installed on the Stinger this weekend. I'll have plenty of time to bed it in before the Oct 22 Track Day at Motorsport Ranch at Cresson. I'll wait till after that to give a more complete Road & Track review of it.

My son will be driving the G70, so we'll get a good benchmark against the Eurosport pads on the 6MT. I'm hoping the EBC will be worthy alternative, for 1/2 the $$$ of the Eurosport.

 

[sstphoenix]

Hiya from a fellow Canuck. Do you have some part #/equivalent G-Loc or Hawk or other top tier AFTMKT brand/more precise infos for me in terms of findings and installing these fabled "euro sport pads" on my G70 3.3T Sport 2019, please? My Laval QC dealership put four brand new rotors at 24,000km to fix the jiddering, and now at 40,700km, the jidder has re-appeared in the brake pedal, and I don't trust the Genesis/Hyundai brake parts anymore. I'd like to attack the problem with x8 new quality pads (those have never been changed during the four services on my G70), and monitor the rotors thereafter with my independent mechanic. Thank you sir.

I have the same issue. They did the same thing for me. Replaced disks and it’s still shaking. Reading the forums now to see what brakes n disks to get next. I’d like drilled rotors n pads. We’ll see what I find.

 

[CVDH-TN]

I believe they were supposed to replace the pads together with the rotors. I had the same issue when my rotors were replaced under warranty, the ticket stated that the pads were supposed to be replaced as well (under warranty), but when they replaced the rotors, they tried to nickel and dime me with a crazy price for the pads (did not have the quote handy to prove the pads were part of it). I decided to replace the pads myself (PowerStop Z23, they are OK, and the shudder never came back (>10k miles), but I liked the "bite" of the OEM better). I understand that you should replace the pads with the rotors. In your case, I suspect that the root cause of the shudder is the pad deposits and not warping and that by keeping the pads in place, the issue came back as they keep leaving some deposits.

 

[Husky]

That's right. The problem isn't the rotor. The factory rotors are fine, it's the $#@&! Ceramic pads they use. New pads of the same type won't help a bit. You need higher performance pads or the problem will keep coming back. Genesis is being so GD stupid about this, wasting everyone's time and money and causing their customers nothing but grief. There's no excuse.

 

[Husky]

Genesis supposedly developed this chassis (led by Albert Biermann, poached from BMW) at the Nurburgring. There's no way they did that on these crappy pads. The proper "Euro" semi-metallic pads should have been used on all trims, in all countries.
It was either bean-counting or fear that customers outside of Europe would object too much to the brake dust that drove them to the ceramics.

 

[canucklehead604]

^ yeah, my guess is ceramics got the nod due to them being quieter, less dust, and longer lasting (both the pad and rotor)....and costing a bit less up front. Genesis took the conservative approach to satisfy the majority of drivers who won't notice or care about performance. and, in many commute cycles ceramics do OK so many owners won't see an issue. it's all of us who don't fit into those categories (we are enthusiasts or have commutes that lead to pad deposits with ceramics) that are frustrated.

 

[Husky]

I get the attractiveness of ceramic pads for most vehicles, and I have them on some of my own. However the performance of the OEM Genesis pads is so bad, even in normal driving, I think they must be really lousy ceramics. Even non-enthusiasts will notice when their steering wheel shakes every time they apply the brakes.
Also, I've never understood the "quieter" thing. I've run semi-metallic pads on half a dozen cars over the last couple of decades and I've never noticed any noise associated with the brakes.

 

[canucklehead604]

my Euro pads squeal on a reasonably consistent basis under certain conditions. typically in warmer weather when everything is up to temp or when i've been braking hard. nothing overly concerning, but far from silent operation. when my windows are down and radio off/low it is very obvious and i did mention it to dealer at my first service back in 2020.

that said, i'm more than happy to live with this minor gripe given the overall outstanding performance in all other aspects of the Euro semi-metallic (other than dust!).