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G70 aftermarket brake pads

I've been following this thread with great interest as I too have been suffering with so-called 'warped' rotors. in fact, I'm off to the dealership this week to have my 4th set of new rotors installed under warranty at only 62K kms. What surprises me is that I'm having issues with brake pad deposits on my 2019 Canadian-spec 6MT (with the Brembo brake package) that is supposedly outfitted with the Euro pads. Do you think it's possible that my car came equipped with the ceramic pads that are leading to all the problems outlined in this thread? Otherwise, I'm at a loss to explain why my car with the Euro pads is exhibiting the same problems as those with the ceramic pads.
Look at your rotors closely (immediately after driving it), and compared them to the pictures I posted in this post: G70 aftermarket brake pads

If the rotor surfaces look smooth and shiny, like my G70 6MT, then you have the Eurosport pads. If OTOH, they look like my Stinger pics (on Page 15 of this thread) with pad material deposits, then the pads are not Eurosport. If that's the case, there is no telling how you ended up with different pads. Those pads are highly sought after - and expensive. With as many trips as you have been through the dealer service dept... who knows.
 
H
I've been trying to obtain front brake pads for my 2019 G70 3.3T sport w/ Brembo brakes for the last few weeks here in Canada but every compatible brake pad in this thread is sold out everywhere. The dealer quoted me $840 just for front pads, not gonna happen.

I have come across BREMBO P30108 Low-Metallic Front Pads on Rockauto and im wondering if these will fit? I know the shape/design is supposed to be 1001 but these do not specifically say.

Any help is much appreciated.

edit: I recently put Dynamic Friction 5000 Low Met in the rear and was hoping to get the same for the front, but they are on back order for several weeks and I need to get the front done before having a safety done in the next week.
Looks like dynamic friction 5000 low met for front is in stock on rockauto.
 
I've been following this thread with great interest as I too have been suffering with so-called 'warped' rotors. in fact, I'm off to the dealership this week to have my 4th set of new rotors installed under warranty at only 62K kms. What surprises me is that I'm having issues with brake pad deposits on my 2019 Canadian-spec 6MT (with the Brembo brake package) that is supposedly outfitted with the Euro pads. Do you think it's possible that my car came equipped with the ceramic pads that are leading to all the problems outlined in this thread? Otherwise, I'm at a loss to explain why my car with the Euro pads is exhibiting the same problems as those with the ceramic pads.
^ first 6MT issue i've heard of. that is odd. do you have excessive brake dust? if not, you don't have the Euro pads which is haywire. if you have lots of brake dust, you have the Euro pads and there must be some other reason for the issue. very strange.

even if you live in a flat area and drive like a granny or have a very short commute, there should be enough friction/heat with the Euro pads to 'clean' those rotors off. it would be interesting to check your pad part #'s to confirm you have the Euro pads, but like i said above if you have lots of brake dust, you have them.
 
H

Looks like dynamic friction 5000 low met for front is in stock on rockauto.
Thanks, I have been checking everyday and came here to say the same thing. Order placed.
 
I've been following this thread with great interest as I too have been suffering with so-called 'warped' rotors. in fact, I'm off to the dealership this week to have my 4th set of new rotors installed under warranty at only 62K kms. What surprises me is that I'm having issues with brake pad deposits on my 2019 Canadian-spec 6MT (with the Brembo brake package) that is supposedly outfitted with the Euro pads. Do you think it's possible that my car came equipped with the ceramic pads that are leading to all the problems outlined in this thread? Otherwise, I'm at a loss to explain why my car with the Euro pads is exhibiting the same problems as those with the ceramic pads.
If I may ask, how did you get your dealership to warranty them?
 
Okay, I goofed...

Some 250 miles into brand new EBC Bluestuff pads, whenever I stepped on brakes moderately heavy, the front still has some nagging vibration that just won't subside. So, I took the front rotors off and had them turned by the local O'Reily's. Dropped them off in the morning, and they called me 1-1/2hrs later and said they were done. Excellent work for $25/rotor. They shaved off less than 0.20mm per wearing surface. Standard thickness is listed as 30.0mm, and wear limit is 28.0mm, so I got plenty of life left in these. Old rotors actually have a distinct advantage over brand new ones, in that they have been heat-cycled repeatedly so all the residual stresses have all been relieved by now. Once resurfaced, these should be thermally and dimensionally very stable.

Oh well, sometimes I get aways with not having the rotors turned when changing pads. Other times - like this once - I didn't. I probably should've guessed it, since these 4-piston calipers have pads that are quite large, so more likely to need rotor resurfacing. Live and learn.
rotors 1.jpg
rotors 2.jpg
rotors 3.jpg
rotors 4.jpg
 
Interesting. They did do a nice job on your rotors. Hopefully it will be fixed for good now. 🤞👍
 
Volfy, good to know. After a few weeks with the Hawk Perfromance pads, I'm running into a similar issue - vibration when moderate to heavy braking when slowing down from 70+ miles an hour. Will try taking my rotors to O'Reilly's when I get the chance.
 
Did the vibration start with those pads, or just never go away?
 
The nature of the vibration changed with the pads.

Before: the constant low speed pulsing under light braking that the ceramic pads usually have.

After: some vibration noted as described above. The low speed pulsing/shudder is absent.
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Have you tried some heavy braking to try and clean the rotors? Otherwise I guess you've got to try getting them turned. Good luck, let us know how you make out.
 
@ejguillot @Husky I should explain a bit more what happened with my brake pad change.

What I typically do when I change brake pads is a 2-stage (or 3-stage) process, depending on brake pad type.

Stage 1: Seating the new pads to rotor. Right after installing brake pads - even if the rotors are brand new or freshly resurfaced - and especially if old rotors are kept as is, I drive the car as I usually do on public roads. That is to say, very gently and with as little brake application as possible. When brake is applied, I do so very gradually and with as light pressure on the pedal as necessary. Purpose here is to wear the contact surfaces of the new brake pads to mate as perfectly flat with the rotor surface as possible... without introducing excess heat, which might glaze the pads material surface. This process could take anywhere between 100-300 milee. Meanwhile, I keep a close eye on the rotor surface for any wear bands, hot spots, and other abnormality.

Stage 2: Bedding the brake pads. Once the pads are seated well to the rotors, Heat can be introduced to "bed in" the pads. Some brake pad mfrs have very specific instructions on how this should be done for each of their pads, depending on friction material compound. If no instructions are given, this is typically done by applying steady moderate pressure on brake pedal to decel from, say, 80mph to 30mph. Smoothly accel back up to pressure and repeat. Purpose of this stage is heat the pads to above a specific temp, in order to release the volatile compounds in the pad material so as to make them less prone to brake fade. Some pad material absolutely must have this done, often in various additional stages. Others, like ceramics, tend not to be as critical.

See here for an example: How To Bed-In Your EBC Brakes For Street Or Track Use - EBC Brakes

What happened with mine was the during the initial portion of Stage 1, the pads ran smoothly with light pedal pressure. However, towards the 1/2 half of Stage 1, where I begin to apply more force on the brake pedal to seat the pads more fully, that's when I start to experience the vibration. This is very different from the "grittiness" that I felt with previous OEM. That was almost like the the pads were wearing against coarse sandpaper... because that is essentially what the pad material deposit does to the rotor surface. Although this occurs whenever the brake pedal pressure is applied, it is actually more noticeable at lower speeds. At higher speeds, the rotor is spinning so fast, the grittiness isn't felt as distinctly.

This latest vibration was actually a real pulsating vibration - very different in feel - and to me, far more alarming. This most likely was caused by the brake pads not pressing against the rotor along parallel planes. That oblique angle engagement causes the the pressure applied across the pad surface to be uneven and thus causing the lighter pressure end to bound up and down, which is the vibration I heard/felt. This biggest difference is that this pulsation is speed dependent. At some speeds, the rotor speed hits the resonant frequency of the brake pad "bounce", thereby exacerbating the phenomenon. At lower speeds, the rotor tend not to spin fast enough to excite the vibration.

I didn't let this go on for very long, because it could potentially wear the pad surface too unevenly. So I took the rotors off to be resurfaced. I just redid the first 1/2 of my Stage 1 seating of the pads today, and no vibration felt so far, at any speed, up to about 80mph. I'll continue with heavier brake pedal pressure tomorrow, and we'll see how it goes. From what I can feel, I think it's looking good.

If I'm able to complete Stage 1, then that's when I will start Stage 2 the bedding in part.


Like I said, I fully own up to trying to be cheap and see if I can get away with not spending the money for pad resurfacing. At $100/4-rotors, it isn't exactly insignificant. It's a gamble... and I lost this round. :)
 
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Thanks for the added detail. It seems very well thought out.
I've never done Step 1, haha. (At least not for more than a couple of miles.) Sometimes I worry that I'm a bit too aggressive with Step 2. I live on a big hill, so I can't go anywhere without doing a fair amount of braking (although it certainly doesn't need to be from 70 to 30mph - I save that for later, lol).
This car seems to be very sensitive to the choice of pad material and bedding procedure.
I hope you continue not to have any vibration or pulsating.
 
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Realistically, for most everyday vehicles and the average driver, bedding in brake pads are not really a necessary concern. Like EBC said, it is mostly for "track use or extreme street use" where the brakes use is heavy & repeated enough to risk fading.

Our G70 and Stinger are the first two cars I've taken to AutoX or track day in almost 30yrs.

Same as with brake fluid. Not uncommon to come across folks who don't know brake fluid needs to be changed out - just like motor oil - regularly. Million of vehicle are running around every day with old brake fluids that are moisture laden and have really low wet boiling point. I myself have been guilty of not staying on top of that on every car I've owned. Truth is, most folks don't drive their cars under conditions that would get themselves in trouble.

But unfortunately, every once in a long while, you do hear about some truck driver whose brakes failed in some Colorado mountain hwy and killed a bunch of people.
 
Update. No pulsation or vibration of any kind at speeds up to 80mph. All 4 rotors show even pad contact. Looks like I got away with not turning the rear rotors. :sneaky: These EBC Bluestuff pads definitely have a performance bend. Pedal feel is more linear than the stock pads. Friction level is considerably higher. Braking to a stop, I need to pay a lot more attention on tapering off pedal pressure, or the car will stop abruptly. No brake noise though (chattering/hissing/groaning/etc.) Brake dust is black and a lot of it, especially up front, so I'm anticipating wear rate higher up front too. Washes off easily enough. IMO, not everybody is going to like this compound. If I weren't doing AutoX and Track Days, I would go with something a bit less aggressive, like the YellowStuff.

I do like that EBC is very up front with the characteristics of each pad compound and what I can expect from each, instead of a bunch of marketing superlatives. Not every mfr goes into the levels of details EBC does and it is a key reason I've always liked their motorcycle brake pads.
EBC1.jpg
 
That's great, good to know.
 
So I just got my brakes done on my car and replaced all pads with Bendix pads. I was not the one that ordered the parts but was told by my mechanic that the rotors were bendix as well. That being said I can't find any Bendix rotors that fit the G70 so not sure on that one. I get the car back Tuesday so i'll update yall then on how they feel. Also gonna attach pics of the old rotors because they were TOAST.
 

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That rotor shows some seriously bad heat-spotting. Rather than typing up another long post, I'll just cut&paste from this online article:

4. Heat Spots
Heat spots (Fig. x) are a tell tale sign that your brake rotors have uneven brake pad deposits. How do they affect you? Heat spots will lead to brake harshness, vibration and reduced structural integrity. Heat spots on brake rotors occur when brakes aren't broken in (bedded) properly and the brake pad deposits on the rotor accumulate and eventually turn into a compound known as cementite. You don't want Cementite on your brake rotors. Cementite is compound that is very hard, overly abrasive and doesn't allow the rotors to cool properly. As a result, Cementite heats up the local area around itself growing in size and reducing the cooling capacity of your brake rotors.
Prevention: Properly breaking/bedding in your new brake rotors is vital to the longevity of the rotor. See our Brake Rotor Bedding Guide.

If this is caught early on, you can possibly remedy it by bedding in your brakes with a more abrasive pad, or resurfacing your rotors. If the heat spots are extensive, you will need to replace your rotors.

Please... take the time to seat and bed-in new brake pads, regardless of what you put in.
 
So... is there like nowhere to just go get pads LOL

I wads looking into Slotted and Drilled rotors and after reading this I am not buying anything. They come with pads and say it is for the Brembos but if people can't even find pads locally where are these companies getting reliable stuff that will work.

I looked at drilledrotors,com, r1concepts and kahrtunerz and they had a decent little package like $780 at one place for the Brembo Setup. Anyone use it or what.

Thanks
 
Unless you are in a huge hurry, why not just order what you want and wait for them. Mine took a little over a month to arrive, but it's not like my car was undrivable before the new pads.

As for drilled & slotted rotors, I would hesitate to poopoo them all together, but do keep your expectations in check when buying them. Decades ago, they served a purpose, but brake pad compounds have come a long way since. However, the idea of drilled/slotted as the PERFORMANCE choice has become engrained in popular car culture, even though for the most part drilled rotors don't offer any benefits. Slotted might still help with friction material surface management, but even that's of dubious value. If you pick the right pad compound for your application, it's not needed. Any time you cut into a perfectly good solid vented rotor, you compromise the structural integrity of it. While very few drivers would ride their vehicles hard enough for the heat stresses to cause problems, by the same token, neither are most drivers likely to realize any performance gain with drilled and/or slotted.

As is in so many things related to cars, it basically comes down the aesthetic value. If you like the looks of drilled/slotted rotors and are willing to pay premium for them, by all means go for it. I would say though... pay attention to the hole pattern of the drilled holes and avoid those with holes that line up circumferentially, like this, as they can cause wear problems and lead to pad/rotor contact issues.
dangerous-cdr2.jpg


Also, I would stay way with ones with holes lined up in tight lines, as they are the worst in creating stress risers.
7dbf38a938bd13aafb19730877b3cf234900d760.jpg


FWIW, if you want to know the detailed reasons why, check out:
 
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