G70 aftermarket brake pads

[5102542]

That would indeed be a performance downgrade. I would say our 6MT Sport's Eurosport pads are closer to EBC Yellow, or even Blue. We love them. Dust... meh, just something we're perfectly willing to put up with, in order to get great brake performance.

Then again, it all depends on your priorities. If low dust is very important to you, EBC red should be an improvement.

It's like tires... buy what suits your expectations.

100% agree.

I loved the Eurosport pads, but washing my wheels every weekend got old fast

 

[Volfy]

100% agree.

I loved the Eurosport pads, but washing my wheels every weekend got old fast

Understand. Especially if I live in an apt or anything where washing car isn't as convenient, it can be a problem.

Luckily, I have a long drive way, and we live in the warm south. I generally hand wash every two weeks. I quite often hose the wheels once in-between. When the dust is still fresh, they come off very easily. The longer I wait, the harder they wash off.

Leave brake dust on long enough, and they can permanently stain the wheel finish.

 

[Aquineas]

You should check out our recommended online retailer, the link is in our signature, they have full stock for the G70 3.3T right now - GENESIS G70 3.30 Twin Turbo Petrol 2019- - Perfect Brakes Discs, Pads and Shoes

So the link shows the "Bluestuff" product as unavailable, but the "Greenstuff" is available. What's the difference? I have a 2020 3.3T AWD and desperately need brakes. I do not race or autocross but by necessity have some hard braking moments.

Edit: Nevermind, I found my answers here.

 

[Aquineas]

You should check out our recommended online retailer, the link is in our signature, they have full stock for the G70 3.3T right now - GENESIS G70 3.30 Twin Turbo Petrol 2019- - Perfect Brakes Discs, Pads and Shoes

Would be happy to do that, but unfortunately almost none of the front pads are in stock.

 

[Volfy]

Not that tough to find them in stock elsewhere. Find the part number you are interested in and do a google search. Amazon, for example, sells EBC pads.

 

[futur3stig15]

Anyone have any experience buying from buybrakes.com? like 90% sure I just wasted money on trying to buy EBC blue stuff. Stupidly didnt research the company beforehand and it has a ton of 1 star reviews. Also when you search up the actual company location it takes you to a house address? And on top of that the website isnt working so i cant go and cancel my order.

Also if anyone has bought blue stuff pads and got them, where did you buy from?

 

[Volfy]

Amazon is hard to beat for order reliability and fast delivery. Although, prices have shot through the roof since I bought my Bluestuff more than a year ago.

 

[Husky]

You can also probably get them right from EBC, no? Although probably at a higher price.

 

[futur3stig15]

Amazon.com

This is what i found on amazon but Im not sure how reliable the seller is.

This the correct pad for the front brakes right?

 

[CVODON]

I have the Redstuff EBC pads, and have had for about 10K miles. They work great and have very little dusting. I ordered mine from Summit Racing and got them the next day. Always check Google for a coupon availability for Summit. I found a $20 off coupon on single purchase over a $100. Had to make 2 separate orders but saved $40.00.

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[Volfy]

Amazon.com

This is what i found on amazon but Im not sure how reliable the seller is.

This the correct pad for the front brakes right?

Correct.

 

[futur3stig15]

Unless you have some aftermarket wheel with really tightly spaced spokes, you shouldn't need to remove the wheel to check brake pad wear. Just look between the spokes for the metallic tab on the edge of the outer brake pad. Post #451 above shows it very clearly. If you can't quite see between the spokes, stick a cellphone in there and take a pic.

Brake pad wear depends entirely on how the car has been driven. Needing replacement at 20k seems early but not entirely impossible. Our G70 has around 12k and the pads are roughly 1/2 worn. That's just eyeballing without measurement.

Resurfacing the rotors with new pads is never a bad idea, especially if the rotors show any grooving or uneven wear. I tried cheaping out on the Stinger without turning the rotors, and the front brakes were quick to protest my being a Scrooge. Got them turned for $25/corner and all was good. Rears did fine without resurfacing.

Changing out rotors not worn below minimum serviceable thickness is your choice. IMO it's a waste of money better spend elsewhere, especially if your rotors have been working well and have no heat spots. Old heat-cycled rotors are likely more dimensionally stable than green iron. Personally, I wouldn't put drilled rotors on my car, even if you give to me for free. I'd sell them on ebay to those who like them, and buy vented solid rotors instead.

Quick question on this, just changed out the pads on my 3.3 to EBC Blue after having bad issues with vibrations. I got back from bedding them in and while they still vibrate its not as severe. Does the vibration go away over time with use of the new pads or should i just get them resurfaced? if so where were you able to get yours resurfaced for that cheap?

 

[Volfy]

Quick question on this, just changed out the pads on my 3.3 to EBC Blue after having bad issues with vibrations. I got back from bedding them in and while they still vibrate its not as severe. Does the vibration go away over time with use of the new pads or should i just get them resurfaced? if so where were you able to get yours resurfaced for that cheap?

It's always a gamble if you change out to new pads without resurfacing rotors. As I mentioned earlier, I got away with the rear rotors, but not the front. If you still have vibration after switching to new pads, there is no telling whether it will go away after a while. The deposits left by the old pads might get scrubbed away and the brakes will smooth out, or it might cause your new brake pads not to seat/bed properly, in which case you are screwed. I didn't wait around to find out. In fact, I didn't even wait until I finished bedding before I took out the front rotors and got them turned at O'Reilly's. My new Bluestuff didn't want to seat properly with the old un-resurfaced rotors, I stopped it right there. Any longer, the new pads might start wearing unevenly. That would introduce more problems.

After I got the front rotors resurfaced, I repeated the seating procedures, with zero vibration. Then - and only then - did I bed them in at the track.

 

[futur3stig15]

It's always a gamble if you change out to new pads without resurfacing rotors. As I mentioned earlier, I got away with the rear rotors, but not the front. If you still have vibration after switching to new pads, there is no telling whether it will go away after a while. The deposits left by the old pads might get scrubbed away and the brakes will smooth out, or it might cause your new brake pads not to seat/bed properly, in which case you are screwed. I didn't wait around to find out. In fact, I didn't even wait until I finished bedding before I took out the front rotors and got them turned at O'Reilly's. My new Bluestuff didn't want to seat properly with the old un-resurfaced rotors, I stopped it right there. Any longer, the new pads might start wearing unevenly. That would introduce more problems.

After I got the front rotors resurfaced, I repeated the seating procedures, with zero vibration. Then - and only then - did I bed them in at the track.

Ok I think I need some help here. These pads and rotors are brand new. The only thing is that these pads rode on really badly hotspotted rotors for a week. This is from one hard braking where they got hot, and I didnt stop after that I let them cool down before I stopped. I have already followed the proper bedding procedure and they bedded in very well. Are these just deposits or do I need to be worried about something like hub runout? (DBA 4000 T3 and EBC Blue stuff pads) That being said if im just being to hard on them pls tell me. There is also no vibration in the pedal or steering wheel.

 

[Husky]

Ouch! Those rotors really got hot! That's from one stop?! Were you stopping from 150mph?
I'd be concerned about the health of the pads and rotors, but I'm no expert.

 

[futur3stig15]

Ouch!

This does not spark joy.

 

[futur3stig15]

I also made sure that the hubs were clear of rust and cleaned them up before I put the rotors on.

The only thing that I can think of is that I didn't grease the back of the pads and probably didn't clean the calipers off enough.

 

[Volfy]

Ok I think I need some help here. These pads and rotors are brand new. The only thing is that these pads rode on really badly hotspotted rotors for a week. This is from one hard braking where they got hot, and I didnt stop after that I let them cool down before I stopped. I have already followed the proper bedding procedure and they bedded in very well. Are these just deposits or do I need to be worried about something like hub runout? (DBA 4000 T3 and EBC Blue stuff pads) That being said if im just being to hard on them pls tell me. There is also no vibration in the pedal or steering wheel.

That looks like the pad weren't seated properly with the rotor. A few possibilities:

1. There might have been a good amount of pad material deposits left on the rotors. The new pads picked it up and subsequently glazed over parts of the pad wearing surfaces.

2. The pads/rotors were not de-greased thoroughly enough. This is especially true for brand new rotors, which is typically pickled in preservation oil to prevent rust. It is of paramount importance to make sure the pads and rotors are cleaned and degreased before installation. And even after installation, I'd spray it down with brake cleaner just to make sure any finger smudges are removed. Needless to say, I use a lot of brake cleaner spray.

If any dirt/oil/grease/ silicone are left on the wearing surfaces, they can glaze over and cause friction problems.

3. The rotors were previously used with another set of pads and were not re-surfaced before installing new set of pads. Over time, the pads/rotor will wear into each other and not always in a nice perfectly flat and square manner. There could be grooves, bevels and/or concavities. This is why it's important to resurface old rotors before installing new pads... unless you have measured the rotor with a precision caliper or micrometer and are satisfied that it is flat/square enough to take a chance. Even then, I would go very very easy at first, not apply brakes hard, and check pad/rotor wear pattern after each drive.

4. Under no circumstances should you attempt to bed the pads/rotors, until you have inspected them and know with absolute certainty they are ALL seated properly. Even if I resurface the rotor (or they are completely brand new rotors), I would still go through the seating procedure of going very easy for the first 50-100miles or so, and checking pad/rotor wear pattern after each drive. This becomes exceedingly critical if you don't turn old rotors.

5, Unlike other more-street-oriented EBC pad compounds, Bluestuff does not have an initial break-in seating layer. This makes the above even more critical to get done right. Bluestuff is meant as a purposely built track pad, so the assumption is that the owner is well versed in how to seat/bed new pad/rotors properly. This is not a beginner-friendly pad compound.

If your pad/rotor mating surfaces are not 100% flat and square against each other, then only certain parts are making contact. Then when you slam on the brakes hard, all that braking pressure is applied to only a small area of the pad/rotor interface. The end result is overheating/glazing/hot-spotting.

The only thing that I can think of is that I didn't grease the back of the pads and probably didn't clean the calipers off enough.

I don't ever put grease anywhere near my brakes. These things could get very hot and any grease you put on will quickly melt into hot liquid and run everywhere... quite likely places that you do not want grease to run into.

Brakes pads do NOT need any lubrication. All I do is clean everything thoroughly. The only place I might possibly use grease is the pad carrier pins. Even then, I would clean them to shiny bright metal, then smear only a tiny amount of grease over each pin, rub it with my fingers all over the pin, then wipe all the grease off it. All that is left is a microscopic coating of oil, not enough to attract dirt/grime, but just enough lubricity for the pads to slide on them easily. Everywhere else around the brakes should be absolutely clean and dry.

 

[futur3stig15]

That looks like the pad weren't seated properly with the rotor. A few possibilities:

1. There might have been a good amount of pad material deposits left on the rotors. The new pads picked it up and subsequently glazed over parts of the pad wearing surfaces.

2. The pads/rotors were not de-greased thoroughly enough. This is especially true for brand new rotors, which is typically pickled in preservation oil to prevent rust. It is of paramount importance to make sure the pads and rotors are cleaned and degreased before installation. And even after installation, I'd spray it down with brake cleaner just to make sure any finger smudges are removed. Needless to say, I use a lot of brake cleaner spray.

If any dirt/oil/grease/ silicone are left on the wearing surfaces, they can glaze over and cause friction problems.

3. The rotors were previously used with another set of pads and were not re-surfaced before installing new set of pads. Over time, the pads/rotor will wear into each other and not always in a nice perfectly flat and square manner. There could be grooves, bevels and/or concavities. This is why it's important to resurface old rotors before installing new pads... unless you have measured the rotor with a precision caliper or micrometer and are satisfied that it is flat/square enough to take a chance. Even then, I would go very very easy at first, not apply brakes hard, and check pad/rotor wear pattern after each drive.

4. Under no circumstances should you attempt to bed the pads/rotors, until you have inspected them and know with absolute certainty they are ALL seated properly. Even if I resurface the rotor (or they are completely brand new rotors), I would still go through the seating procedure of going very easy for the first 50-100miles or so, and checking pad/rotor wear pattern after each drive. This becomes exceedingly critical if you don't turn old rotors.

5, Unlike other more-street-oriented EBC pad compounds, Bluestuff does not have an initial break-in seating layer. This makes the above even more critical to get done right. Bluestuff is meant as a purposely built track pad, so the assumption is that the owner is well versed in how to seat/bed new pad/rotors properly. This is not a beginner-friendly pad compound.

If your pad/rotor mating surfaces are not 100% flat and square against each other, then only certain parts are making contact. Then when you slam on the brakes hard, all that braking pressure is applied to only a small area of the pad/rotor interface. The end result is overheating/glazing/hot-spotting.


I don't ever put grease anywhere near my brakes. These things could get very hot and any grease you put on will quickly melt into hot liquid and run everywhere... quite likely places that you do not want grease to run into.

Brakes pads do NOT need any lubrication. All I do is clean everything thoroughly. The only place I might possibly use grease is the pad carrier pins. Even then, I would clean them to shiny bright metal, then smear only a tiny amount of grease over each pin, rub it with my fingers all over the pin, then wipe all the grease off it. All that is left is a microscopic coating of oil, not enough to attract dirt/grime, but just enough lubricity for the pads to slide on them easily. Everywhere else around the brakes should be absolutely clean and dry.

Ah, I think I understand it now. Thank you for the write-up, I appreciate it. So do you think the best thing to do for my current setup would be to just take it easy with normal driving for a while and let it work itself out? I thought I had given it long enough to seat properly (~60 miles) and I had assumed that what the pads had picked up off the old rotors would have gone away in the seating period.

I did make sure to wipe down the rotors with brake cleaner as the company had instructed so I doubt thats the case.

I had tried to get a shop to turn down my old rotors but was turned away since they were slotted and drilled so that was why I went with getting new rotors in the first place. I also was very keen on the wear pattern on every drive that I've been on and up until now it has looked fine. It was a little uneven at first but it smoothed out. But again I could have missed something and should have given them longer to seat.

And the only thing I could think of with the pad carrier pins is that I didnt clean them enough but judging by what was said earlier I'm willing to bet that that wasnt the issue.

I think I'll just take it easy with them for a while and hope it sorts itself out. Like I said in the original post there was no vibration in the steering wheel or pedal so I dont think its that bad.

Also on that last point you made about certain parts making contact. The majority of the hotspotting on the old rotors was on the outside edge of the rotor and this hot spot is in the center so that could very well be the case.


So I took it for one more cruise before I went to bed making sure to be very gentle with the brakes and got back and checked the wear pattern and Im positive you're right. The spots are much smaller now and it looks like they are going to go away but the wear pattern is much more concentrated in the center of the rotor.

 

[Volfy]

Typically, when a rotor heat spots like that, there will be some dimensional bulging, which exacerbate the problem. The downside is that the thermal capacity of your affected brakes won't be as good as if everything was in tip-top shape. However, if the car won't see track duty, it isn't going to get hot enough to get itself in severe trouble. You might get lucky and the high spots wear themselves out and your brakes regains a good portion of its performance. The rotors will still be structurally compromised, but as long as you don't see heat checking (cracks emanating from where the heat spots were), they should be mild-street-duty serviceable. Ultimately, it's up to you to decide whether you are comfortable with the way your brakes are. It's not something any of us can decide for you.

One thing I should stress, is that if you have not flushed your brake fluid since you bough the car, a 2020 MY car should have it done. You don't need expensive high-temp racing fluid. Just a good quality DOT4 would work.