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G80 under-body panels on a 2015 Genesis 5.0 for easier oil changes.

dang $400 for a panel that should have already come with the cutout... what were they thinking. i use topsider on my 15 v6 and extract it thru the dipstick hole. working great so far for last 4 oil changes.

Amazon.com: Air Power America 5060TS Topsider Multi-Purpose Fluid Removing System: Automotive
I agree. Nearly $400 for a lower body panel set is expensive. However, I still like to drain my oil the old fashioned way and the old panels made the job excessively more difficult. Now, I drain the oil in less than 30 minutes; filter and all including jacking the car up on one side.

I am sure that the Topsider method works fine as well. I use that method on my lawnmower oil changes.
 
How do you replace the oil filter when you do topside extraction? Are you able to remove the filter without taking off the bottom cover?
 
How do you replace the oil filter when you do topside extraction? Are you able to remove the filter without taking off the bottom cover?
You cannot remove the oil filter on the V8 from the top I believe without being very creative. However, you will still have to remove the intake hoses and coupler to gain access to the oil filter from the top so it will still be a pain to do an oil change with a suction pump. The oil filter may be easier to access on the V6 from the top, not on the V8.

Hell, anything is possible when a person gets creative.

The newer body panels with the access cutouts works well for me so I can perform a quick and easy oil change.
 
On the 3.8l V6 I can see the oil filter housing under the front of the engine with no obstructions but it's a long reach. Probably have to cover the front with a pad and lay down to get a wrench on it, and use a shallow pan to catch the drips.
Someone posted a method to change the 3.8l filter from top in another thread.
 
Yes, one forum member was able to change the filter from the top, slipping a pan under it to catch spilled oil. Combine that with syphoning the oil from the dipstick, no need to remove the panels.

I feel for you guys. My 2019 3.8 has the access panels and made it all easy.
 
Someone else posted that he bought just the access door parts of the panels and cut out his existing panels to fit the access panels.
 
Someone else posted that he bought just the access door parts of the panels and cut out his existing panels to fit the access panels.
And that is being creative...:)
 
I just did an oil change yesterday and it was super easy. I ended up just jacking both front wheels off the ground and open the panels on the under body covers. Too easy. I drain out about 8 1/4 quarts of oil from the oil pan and oil filter. I ran the oil for about 5k miles.

The 2017+ under body panels make changing oil very simple on my 2015 5.0. The Fumoto oil drain valve also simplified the job; just turn the lever and the oil just flow out. No drain plug to deal with.
 
I just did an oil change yesterday and it was super easy. I ended up just jacking both front wheels off the ground and open the panels on the under body covers. Too easy. I drain out about 8 1/4 quarts of oil from the oil pan and oil filter. I ran the oil for about 5k miles.

The 2017+ under body panels make changing oil very simple on my 2015 5.0. The Fumoto oil drain valve also simplified the job; just turn the lever and the oil just flow out. No drain plug to deal with.
I had just picked up the under body panel doors. I was going to just cut a hole and add the access doors. Try to save some $. But I know I wont like the non factory look. I will try it though.
 
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I had just picked up the under body panel doors. I was going to just cut a hole and add the access doors. Try to save some $. But I know I wont like the non factory look. I will try it though.
Just you and your mechanic will know (and now all of us..lol) :D
 
The 2017+ under body panels make changing oil very simple on my 2015 5.0. The Fumoto oil drain valve also simplified the job; just turn the lever and the oil just flow out. No drain plug to deal with.
Do you recall what Fumoto part number you bought? Are they about $20? My guess.

I've got the 3.8 in the G80 and the drain plug is on the rear of the oil pan, angled just slightly down. They have a few models, some that can attach a rubber hose. The hose sounds like it would be convenient, but not if it gets hard and brittle. A simple valve that directs the oil downward would work fine.

 
Do you recall what Fumoto part number you bought? Are they about $20? My guess.

I've got the 3.8 in the G80 and the drain plug is on the rear of the oil pan, angled just slightly down. They have a few models, some that can attach a rubber hose. The hose sounds like it would be convenient, but not if it gets hard and brittle. A simple valve that directs the oil downward would work fine.

I use the F106S valve with a removable white plastic 90 degree angle nipple. No hose needed with the 90 degree elbow nipple since the oil just flow down into the oil pan.

I bought the valve and nipple pack from Amazon.
 
I will keep this panel replacement in mind for the front (my front panel is kinda worn anyway) I ended up cutting my own hole in the back panel and securing it with small bolts and the same plastic panel clips. I had bought a bunch of extras of last time i had missing clips. I use ramps so the front panel is easier access for me then the back, gets very tight getting those last two bolts.
 
Why bother with replacement panels or jacking the car up?

I posted this elsewhere but in case you haven't seen it...

You can buy a 14mm x1.5 to -6an adapter and use a -6an hose and run it to the outer side of the car behind the front left wheel well. There's also a barbed adapter available that will fit the pan thread to a dash 6 hose so you don't have to use a second female hose end. I had all these parts except for the pan adapter.

Put a female/barbed hose end at the outer end with a -6 cap. I drilled two small holes for a tyrap to keep it in place. For extra insurance, I safety wired a wrap around the hose for each barbed fitting. The hose easily routes under the cross member to the outed edge of the panel. (I put some sticky back foam at any place there could be chaffing) Leave a little extra hose (3-4") to pull out from the panel and over a drain pan. You'll only have to jack the car up once to install it.

Oil line from pan1.webp

The shot above had the hose routed over the crossmember but I changed it to go under, as below.

oil pan rerouted hose.webp

hose end.webp

This whole thing shouldn't cost over $40 or so in parts. Next time you drain the oil... snip the tyrap, pull the hose out over a pan and remove the cap. That end of the panel hung down a bit so I drilled a hole in the two panels and put in one of those plastic spreader plugs to hold them together.
 
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Not sure I understand what a -6an adapter is. Is that a spec for hoses?

So is the hose under pressure when the engine is running?
 
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