Hard Wired Radar / Laser Detectors *Merged*

[MattP]

Re: Hard Wired Radar / Laser Detectors

Picked it up Autozone today. Question - why do you have a fuse connected to the black housing? Won't this work by just plugging it into the fusebox?

Forgive the novice question

As I understand it there should be two fuse slots. The first is to place the fuse you removed to fit the connector to the box. The second is the fuse for the line you are adding (accessory, radar detector etc).

In my case, I added the connector to an empty slot, so there was no need to add the first fuse (the one closest to the plug in the photo). My radar detector already had an inline fuse so I simply added a fuse with a larger rating to the second slot (the fuse you can see in the photo)

Hope this helps.

 

[Lisa.D]

Re: Hard Wired Radar / Laser Detectors

I can vouch for the V1 as well. Worth the 300~ bucks.

 

[mk1]

Re: Hard Wired Radar / Laser Detectors

As I understand it there should be two fuse slots. The first is to place the fuse you removed to fit the connector to the box. The second is the fuse for the line you are adding (accessory, radar detector etc).

In my case, I added the connector to an empty slot, so there was no need to add the first fuse (the one closest to the plug in the photo). My radar detector already had an inline fuse so I simply added a fuse with a larger rating to the second slot (the fuse you can see in the photo)

Hope this helps.

Yes, makes sense, thank you. But I'm not sure why you'd need to add a second fuse with a larger rating since the radar detector already has an in-line fuse.

 

[Nabber]

Re: Hard Wired Radar / Laser Detectors

Yes, makes sense, thank you. But I'm not sure why you'd need to add a second fuse with a larger rating since the radar detector already has an in-line fuse.

You must add a fuse otherwise the added circuit is "open" and carries no electricity.

 

[grtday]

Radar Detector Installation

With those 375 ponies, one MUST have a radar detector. My installation took about 30 minutes, once I figured out that the Driver's side fuse box was a constant 12V hot and the Passenger's side fuse box was switched.
I had removed the A-pillar's, run the wiring and was ready to button it all up before I figured that out, hence most of these pictures are from the Driver's side...the the same applies for both sides.
I was worried about pulling off the A-pillar cover for fear of schweckling the side air bags. My dealer gave me a loaner Santa Fe, so I experimented on it and found nothing to limit pulling the A-pillar cover. Be sure to remove the bolt under the SRS pop-in plug first!
From there, it was pretty straightforward...
Run the hot wire from the Valentine One connection box to a fuse. Wrap the wire around a fuse spade and shove it back into the fust block.
Plug the RJ-11 connector into the V-1 connection box, run that black flat wire up the A-pillar. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to lightly pry the headliner and stuff the blace wire into that space, running along th e top of the windscreen till you arrive at the place you want to hang your detector.
I hope this helps someone in their endeavors.
Thanks for viewing and drive cheerfully!

 

[Gimli]

Re: Radar Detector Installation

My installation took about 30 minutes, once I figured out that the Driver's side fuse box was a constant 12V hot and the Passenger's side fuse box was switched.

Hmmm, both fuse boxes have always on and switched outlets.

 

[grtday]

Response: Radar Detector Installation

With all due respect, I put a VOM meter on most of the driver side boxes (15A and below) and could not find a switched fuse junction.
Conversely, when I did the same on the passengers side, I found them to be switched.
Not sure which ones you're referencing, but it doesn't really matter....
Thanks!

 

[mk1]

Re: Response: Radar Detector Installation

With all due respect, I put a VOM meter on most of the driver side boxes (15A and below) and could not find a switched fuse junction.
Conversely, when I did the same on the passengers side, I found them to be switched.
Not sure which ones you're referencing, but it doesn't really matter....
Thanks!

Detailed discussion here:

http://genesisowners.com/hyundai-genesis-forum/showthread.php?t=565

Got it done in 15 minutes without having to completely remove the A pillar.

 

[mike813]

Thanks everyone for the tips. I just hardwired my 10-year old valentine1 by taking off the a-pillar cover and piggybacking the red wire from the V-1 hardwire kit onto the top-left corner 10A fuse, marked "audio" on the fuse chart. I kept the plastic part of the hardwire kit behind the pillar cover, dropped the red wire through the opening right into the fuse box, and secured the ground to the air bag tie down bolt. works great. I keep the V1 just to the left and above the mirror, so that the sensor is just below the blue tint on the window. I have the concealed display as well but decided not to use it -- this location seems to be out of the way of the sunvisor and still in my peripheral view -

 

[sean3410]

Hi Guys - Trying to hardwire my radar detector, and am having trouble getting the A-Pillar off. I've removed the bolt under the SRS cap, but this thing doesn't want to budge. Any suggestions? What did you all do to remove yours - use any tools, special techniques to keep from damaging?

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Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[ASHDUMP]

Hi Guys - Trying to hardwire my radar detector, and am having trouble getting the A-Pillar off. I've removed the bolt under the SRS cap, but this thing doesn't want to budge. Any suggestions? What did you all do to remove yours - use any tools, special techniques to keep from damaging?

Just found this thread because of you. I actually found a simpler solution rather than running wires up and down the pillar.

First question is, what kind of detector do you own?

I have a V1 and use this product http://www.safe-n-sound1.com/Valentine Stealth Mirror Cord.html

Or you could purchase this... http://stealthcords.com/shop/product demo-p-13.html

and if nothing else watch the installation video from the link above.

The pink wire is the hot and the black is the ground. The detector does not need to go back to the fuse box and the safe-n-sound1 comes with a line in fuse for protection.

 

[ASHDUMP]

I actually gave you bad information on the HOT wire. It is not the pink one... that is always on... you need to find the red one with a brown line I think, or Red with a white line... I think there is only one red wire so find that one.

 

[sean3410]

Thanks. I ended up getting the A-pillar cover off after all. Just needed a little more elbow grease.

 

[ck2118]

Just hard-wired my new Escort 9500ix using the Safe-N-Sound stealth wire. The install was very easy. I wired it to the rain sensor and it is the pink wire that is switched. Radar is mounted just right of the mirror, below the tint.

Sorry for the quality... Iphone 3GS is apparently stone-age now.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

[pixelvisions]

If you want to tap into the mirror, on a 4.6 Tech use the pink (pin 1) and black (pin 3) wires. The pink wire only supplies power when the car is on.

 

[pixelvisions]

I tapped into the mirror and used an aftermarket bracket for installation. I originally was looking at the BlendMount but went with a 23mm model from Country Joy Crafts.

Got the adjustable model and it turned out real nice... much easier install/adjustment than I thought it would be. For your reference, I don't own a Valentine or a Escort--I own a Whistler PRO-78 SE but the Escort bracket I ordered from Country Joy was 100% compatible with the default Whistler bracket.

Also, I can't give a full review of the Pro-78 SE because I haven't had it long enough.. but it has saved me twice so far. Seems pretty decent for the price.

 

[bu341wm]

Hard wired my Rocky Mountain Radar & Scrambler. Made brackets and used existing 10mm grille bolts to anchor. Ran wires through firewall using the existing hole for the hood release cable. Power from Driver side fuse panel (Thanks Nabber!) pulled upper and lower steering column surround and dash end cap (left fuse panel) Fished the wires between the flat part of the dash in front of the gauges and the plexiglass for the gauges. I moved these babies enough to pass 3.4mm right angle plugs, 4 of them plus the right angle power plug. Heard some groaning but didn't break anything! You can see the wires through the entire operation. Be sure to remove the cover under the hood on the driver's side for access. This is also a chassis grounding point. A great place to ground the system. Plugged cables into Control Box and mounted box with double sided sticky tape. Looks great and as We used to say in the Sub Navy "Works fine, fails safe and drains to the bilge"!

 

[adowney]

I tapped into the mirror and used an aftermarket bracket for installation. I originally was looking at the BlendMount but went with a 23mm model from Country Joy Crafts.

Got the adjustable model and it turned out real nice... much easier install/adjustment than I thought it would be. For your reference, I don't own a Valentine or a Escort--I own a Whistler PRO-78 SE but the Escort bracket I ordered from Country Joy was 100% compatible with the default Whistler bracket.

Also, I can't give a full review of the Pro-78 SE because I haven't had it long enough.. but it has saved me twice so far. Seems pretty decent for the price.

pixelvision
How did you actually tap into the mirror power connectors? Is there a cover that can be removed? Or did you connect to the rain sensor, and if so, how?

 

[pixelvisions]

pixelvision
How did you actually tap into the mirror power connectors? Is there a cover that can be removed? Or did you connect to the rain sensor, and if so, how?

The black long thing that comes down from the top of the windshield to the mirror mount just pulls out. Push up from the bottom (by the mirror mount) and then slide out. Then you can see all the wires and splice into the power/ground.

 

[|2idicu|ous]

i did my hardwire install of Valentine One in my 2011 4.6 a few weeks ago.

Hardwired into overhead light console after finding description on Amazon. the below pics are taken from the nice gentleman's amazon pics. Opened sunglasses holder- unscrewed 2 screws. pulled console down slightly. unhooked wiring harnesses and i think maybe 2 more screws that became apparent. you will see the console fits into a black plastic frame/tray that is attached to roof. also remove the black plastic cover that contains mirror power on the top center windshield.

then unplugged harness closest to passenger seat (apparently sunroof harness). using valentine's direct wire power adapter tapped into the middle red wire (switched 12v). purchased another direct wire adapter from Lowes and tapped into the black wire for ground. unplugging and replugging this harness can be a real pain (prepare yourself with alcohol). test connections at this point by turning on V1.

tucked the direct wire adapter stuff up into the roof above the passenger seat. drilled a hole in front portion of black plastic tray and ran Valentine One's power cord through it and to top center windshield. sorry i didn't take a picture. tuck wires away above as best you can then replace overhead light console by reconnecting wiring harnesses, replacing screws, etc. retest connections again. home stretch baby.
i used this mount, because it allows 3D adjustment. installed mount and ran wire- used 1 black tie wrap to hold wire close. good to go. looks similar to this now:

in regards to audi/vw falsing with V1, i have noticed a few times when i couldn't figure out source of obvious falsing and have been able to locate a newer Audi or VW near me. this happens rarely. i have been very happy with the V1 and the hardwired setup. in the next 6 months, i plan to purchase and install Laser interceptor dual.