• Car enthusiast? Join us on Cars Connected! iOS | Android | Desktop
  • Hint: Use a descriptive title for your new message
    If you're looking for help and want to draw people in who can assist you, use a descriptive subject title when posting your message. In other words, "I need help with my car" could be about anything and can easily be overlooked by people who can help. However, "I need help with my transmission" will draw interest from people who can help with a transmission specific issue. Be as descriptive as you can. Please also post in the appropriate forum. The "Lounge" is for introducing yourself. If you need help with your G70, please post in the G70 section - and so on... This message can be closed by clicking the X in the top right corner.

Help! 2015 Genesis rear door won’t open.

Christmas and CoViD could be delaying their response. :rolleyes: They have not yet called me back.
I received an email response from Hyundai, which is exactly what we all expected.

"I have review the info on the vehicle and the vehicle has no recalls regarding a door latch. Also the vehicle is outside od warranty. So I won't be able to assit with the repair.And door latches are not a part of the warranty.


JASMINE
National Consumer Affairs
(833) 462-8722 x65011
Hyundai Motor America"

HO, HO, HO. Merry Christmas!
 
I sincerely hope you find someone to talk to, as I have the same issue. Please let us know if you get anywhere or find someone useful to talk to.
I had the same issue but I fixed it
 
For my driver's door, the door required a replacement latch, on Amazon for about $150. I paid a local technician to do the job with extended warranty money, but his labor price was reasonable. My warranty will not pay me to do the work on my own cars, so now I have a spare (DH) front left door latch.
OEM # 81310-B1000. If you want my spare left/fr latch, I will sell it for less than Amazon, after we determine shipping cost.
If you need the left rear latch, it is 81410-B1000 (r/r is 81420-B1000).
 
For my driver's door, the door required a replacement latch, on Amazon for about $150. I paid a local technician to do the job with extended warranty money, but his labor price was reasonable. My warranty will not pay me to do the work on my own cars, so now I have a spare (DH) front left door latch.
OEM # 81310-B1000. If you want my spare left/fr latch, I will sell it for less than Amazon, after we determine shipping cost.
If you need the left rear latch, it is 81410-B1000 (r/r is 81420-B1000).

Do you happen to know if the technician was able to do the repair without having to cut the door panel off? And if so, any details on how that was done?
 
For my driver's door, the door required a replacement latch, on Amazon for about $150. I paid a local technician to do the job with extended warranty money, but his labor price was reasonable. My warranty will not pay me to do the work on my own cars, so now I have a spare (DH) front left door latch.
OEM # 81310-B1000. If you want my spare left/fr latch, I will sell it for less than Amazon, after we determine shipping cost.
If you need the left rear latch, it is 81410-B1000 (r/r is 81420-B1000).
Do you know how the technician did this without making you replace the door panel?
 
FOR SALE
2015 Genesis. Three door model to keep your kids safe in the back seat.
My 2015 Hyundai Genesis 3.8 rear driver door and window both do not open. It’s been that way for about one year. Had someone check fuses both no issue found. I would like some advice please.
 
How did the repair get completed without replacing the door panel???
 
I’m having the same issue. 2015 Genesis, rear driver side door will not open from inside or outside. Tried unlocking and still won’t open. Took it to the dealership and they couldn’t get it open either. They couldn’t even get the door panel off to get the door open. They called Hyundai and they told them to break the door panel and the fix the problem. Problem is that then I have to pay for a new door panel($2K). Anyone had better luck with a solution?
Wow that's my issue and I'm not going to pay that and it's probably twice the cost now in 2023!
______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!
 
Looking to update and upgrade your Genesis luxury sport automobile? Look no further than right here in our own forum store - where orders are shipped immediately!
I know this thread has been around for a few years but I'm assuming there are people out there still looking for a fix.

The quick summary: I was able to replace a friend's 2015 Genesis rear door latch without damaging the door interior panel. This may or may not apply to other models/years; you will need to evaluate your vehicle's door latch mechanism, etc. to decide if this fix will work for you.

I'm going to do a quick post to let people know what I've found and see if there's interest in more detail. Pardon the bullet points:

  • In order to replace the broken latch mechanism, the interior door panel has to be removed, and as far as I can tell the door has to be open to remove the panel. Which, of course, you can't do because the latch is broken. Catch 22!

  • With the assumption that the problem affecting other Genesis doors is the same as the one I repaired, you will NOT be able to get the door open with a slim-jim or other through-the-window-opening approach. The broken piece is buried deep within the door latch mechanism, and is in the internal linkage operated on by both the outside and inside handle cables. No amount of manipulation of the cables will make up for the fact that the linkage inside the latch assembly itself is broken.

  • I spent several hours with a snake-cam looking inside the door and evaluating an unmounted replacement latch assembly to see if I could find a through-the-window exploit. Unless you have access to NASA-level or aircraft mechanic tools where you can work through a half-inch opening and maneuver a drill around three corners to bore holes in the back of the latch then you are out of luck.

  • But: I did find another way to cause the latch to release and open the door! To understand how this works, it helps if you can open the door on the other side of the car and use a screwdriver to push the latch-pivot mechanism on the door's edge to simulate how the latch engages when the door closes. Note that there's a small black 'cam' at the outside-bottom of the latch-pivot that snaps up and holds the latch in its door-is-closed position. If you can press on that small back cam in just the right way, the latch-pivot will release. There's your exploit!
The general process:

Working from inside the car, pull the interior door seal away from the lower rear edge of the door frame by the rear seat bottom and back. This will expose a pinch-weld (I think it's called that) that sits between where you're sitting and the now-we-know-how-to-exploit-latch-mechanism. Use a Dremel tool outfitted with a 9901 Tungsten Carbide metal bit - they're $10-15 but worth it - to grind away a 'notch' in the pinch weld that will allow you to fish a custom-bent coat hangar wire tool in to where it can push on our cam and release the door latch. (In hindsight I might also have been able to drill a simple 1/8"-1/4" hole in the right spot, but I'm not sure about that. It might be that there isn't room to operate a drill with the seat back in place. I don't have the car nearby where I can consider that as an option, so in the meantime I'm just explaining what I did that worked.)

You'll likely need to get some light shining into the area between the pinch weld and the latch mechanism to know exactly where to put the notch. Use the other side (i.e., working) door to help guide you in where the notch needs to go, as well as how to design your coat hangar wire tool and how to manipulate it to be able to press the release cam.

Important: Wear hearing AND eye protection with grinding with the Dremel bit. Be very careful with this, because this particular Dremel bit will create thousands of razor-sharp 2mm needle-like metal shards, and it's VERY loud. Make sure you use a vacuum on all the nearby surfaces to suck up the shavings before touching anything. You have been warned...

Once the door is open you're on your own. Vacuum up any additional metal shards left over from the grinding you did and press the interior door seal back into place, which nicely hides your little notch. You'll need to remove the interior panel, window lift hardware (and probably the window itself), and all sorts of other stull to get to where you can replace the actual latch mechanism. It's a lot of work, but you'll be so proud of yourself when you get it fixed!

Save the receipt for your replacement latch. If the Hyundai Genesis people ever decide to make this a recall or service bulletin program then you might be able to get reimbursement for the part and any labor costs if you paid someone else to make the fix.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4293 - reduced.webp
    IMG_4293 - reduced.webp
    152.6 KB · Views: 44
  • IMG_4294 - reduced.webp
    IMG_4294 - reduced.webp
    203.1 KB · Views: 46
Last edited:
@therealelbado - Great write up and very timely. My car just started experiencing this problem. I'll need to try this once I buy the parts.
 
Some additional detail:

The location of the notch in the pinch weld is important, as it has to allow your coat-hangar tool to reach in and push the release cam in the door latch mechanism. Spend some time studying your car's working other side door latch to understand exactly how to trigger the release, and that will help you figure out where you'll need to carve the notch.

The way to study this is to open the other-side working door and then use a screwdriver to push the pivoting door latch into the same position it gets to when the mechanism closes onto the car frame's "post". Then locate the "magic cam" I'm talking about it and then simulate how you'll push it to release the latch.

When you're inside the car with the door seal pulled back, it helps a lot to find a way to light the area between the pinch weld and the door frame to help you figure out where the latch is and help position the notch. I was using the light coming from the end of a thin snake-cam inserted into the gap, but a carefully-positioned flashlight might serve the same purpose.

I hope it works out for you. If you manage to reproduce my success, please post an update here to let us know!
 
Here's a little more detail I posted on another forum in response to a question from one of the users there:

Yes, I know my picture doesn't really show what you need to do. I'm going to have to get access to my friend's Genesis to take a couple more that will help explain what I did in more detail. In the meantime, BEFORE YOU TOUCH YOUR CAR WITH YOUR DREMEL, please spend some quality time studying how to get the latch mechanism to open on the other side of the car (which I assume still works) or on the replacement latch (assuming you already have it in-hand).

Start by opening the door (or replacement latch) and then simulating what happens to re-latch it by using a screwdriver to operate the little catch-hook that rotates closed when it's pulled against the post on the car door frame. The little catch-hook has three positions: completely open, half-engaged like when you don't close the door all the way, and then fully-engaged like when the door is fully closed. Do this several times just to get the hang of how the mechanism locks and unlocks.

Once you've mastered that, look carefully at the area near the catch-hook on the latch and study what happens when you unlatch things by pulling on the door handle (or pull cable, if you're using an unmounted replacement latch). You'll notice a tiny plastic piece - the cam I talk about in my original posting - that moves back and allows the catch-hook to rotate to free it from the door frame's post. THAT is what you need to be able to be able to manipulate with the coat hangar.

The door handles PULL that little cam from the inside of the mechanism, and it's the internal connection between the cables and the cam that are broken. What you're trying to do now is PUSH that cam back from the OUTSIDE of the mechanism. You'll rehearse this by sitting oh-so-uncomfortably on your garage floor and poking at it with a small screwdriver to see how it works. Take care not to damage the plastic while you're working with it.

It takes some practice to learn how to hit the cam just right to release the catch-hook, so spend some time to figure out how to do it reliably on the unbroken door. Use that to help you decide where to notch the pinch weld on the broken-door-side and how to work past the post on the door frame to release the door from the inside.

Note: If you can't manipulate the working-side latch after reading these expanded - but still lacking pictures - instructions, please don't proceed. You really need to be able to rehearse this to understand how it's going to work on the side you're trying to fix.

Good luck,
Rick
 
Thanks for the report. Since I did not perform the task myself, I did not know what the technician did. It seems to me that creating this notch could be a beneficial preventative measure. I could even add the notch to the rear door frame before the cable breaks. If Hyundai tech support reads this post, they could release a Tech Service Bulletin (TSB). When grinding or drilling any steel, I use a small magnet next to the drill to attract the metal shavings before I use the shop vacuum to clean the debris. I agree that safety glasses should always be worn when grinding.
 
I agree in general about using a magnet to try to catch metal filings, and I often will put a shop vac nozzle right next to where I'm grinding. Unfortunately, that Dremel grinding bit ejects the little shards at a pretty high speed and many/most will bypass any attempt to catch them.
 
Here's an annotated picture showing the location of the magic cam that releases the door latch. Your notch in the pinch weld needs to be positioned so you can aim a coat hangar into the cam and push it just the right way to pop the door open.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6221 - annotated 2.webp
    IMG_6221 - annotated 2.webp
    119 KB · Views: 25
Has anyone had any success getting their broken door open using my method? Or at least being able to manipulate the magic cam on your other, still-working door in the way I'm describing to get a closed latch to release? I'm curious to know!
 
Has anyone had any success getting their broken door open using my method? Or at least being able to manipulate the magic cam on your other, still-working door in the way I'm describing to get a closed latch to release? I'm curious to know!

I've had this problem for about 2.5 years now and just haven't done anything about it yet. I just came across your updates this morning so I'll have to give it a good read through and see if it's something I want to try. If I do I'll post an update for sure.
 
Last edited:
Wow that's my issue and I'm not going to pay that and it's probably twice the cost now in 2023!
I picked up a used inner panel on EBay for $160. There are several listed.
 
Back
Top