Help lopak make his 2015 Genesis 5.0 go faster

[carguy75]

There really arent any good power adder mods until the 5.0 ECU is cracked. As far as I know only 1 company in S. Korea has cracked it. The problem with the Tau V8s is there arent that many of them out in the wild compared to the 3.8 v6 and the 3.3 v6t.
All I managed to find is a chinese knock off Hyundai ecu scan tool

edit: gds vci hyundai kia - Amazon.com: OBD2toolSeller V15 GDS VCI Diagnostic Tool for KIA & Hyundai with Trigger Module Firmware V2.02 Support Flight Record Function: Automotive

They are all over ali express.

LOL. You will not get much more HP out of the 5.0 V8. Maybe about 10-15 hp with performance air filters and exhaust, but not much more. A tune may open about 10 more HP. The best thing to do is to just optimize the 5.0 engine and increase the Genesis rear traction for a quicker car.

The car is pretty much as good as is if you can live with a 5 second 0-60 large sedan. The tweaks will get it down to about a consistent 4.5 second 0-60 car, especially with the LSD rear axle I believe.

 

[fonque]

LOL. You will not get much more HP out of the 5.0 V8. Maybe about 10-15 hp with performance air filters and exhaust, but not much more. A tune may open about 10 more HP. The best thing to do is to just optimize the 5.0 engine and increase the Genesis rear traction for a quicker car.

The car is pretty much as good as is if you can live with a 5 second 0-60 large sedan. The tweaks will get it down to about a consistent 4.5 second 0-60 car, especially with the LSD rear axle I believe.

why the LOL? I have a little bit of experience with tuning GDI. I have an HHR SS that I have been tinkering with for years using HP tuners. GDI loves timing and boost, you can get even more nuts with E85. Cant access any of it without a cracked ECU or a full standalone. I would love to have that same flexibility with the 5.0. Its such a great motor.

 

[Gen420]

Hey, I can not argue that turbo engines like your 3.3T are able to gain more power from a tune/piggyback module that increases the stock boost limits. However, the OP is asking about any mods for the V8 that will increase power even if the gains are minuscule compared to what the 3.3T is cable of obtaining by adding boost.

Note: I am curious to how long your stock internal engine and transmission will run before issues occur while you are making the kind of power you have it modded out at. Impressive numbers, but can the stock engine/transmission run a lot of miles maxed out like that before some major internal damage occurs? Personally, I would dial it back unless you are going to dump the car after a few years.

The V8 can run a 4.6 second 0-60 without over-stressing the engine with a few simple mods.

How did you hook up your 15 inch sub? Do you have an amp? Is it connected to the head unit?

 

[Chad86tsi]

those thinking of boosing the 5.0 need to understand that the reason this is such a powerful N/A motor is because it's such a high compression ratio at 11.8 : 1. That also makes it very unsuitable for boosted add-ons (turbo/super charger). Following this chart, it cant be safely boosted at all :

https://www.rpmoutlet.com/images/intercooled-compression-ratio-chart.jpg

I modify engines and turbo systems for another car platform, we generally target 8.0:1 CR if we plan a lot of boost, and anything over 9:1 and you really get diminishing returns on peak power potential. even 8000 HP top fuel engines run 6.5 to 7.0 : 1 CR's.

 

[fonque]

those thinking of boosing the 5.0 need to understand that the reason this is such a powerful N/A motor is because it's such a high compression ratio at 11.8 : 1. That also makes it very unsuitable for boosted add-ons (turbo/super charger). Following this chart, it cant be safely boosted at all :

https://www.rpmoutlet.com/images/intercooled-compression-ratio-chart.jpg

I modify engines and turbo systems for another car platform, we generally target 8.0:1 CR if we plan a lot of boost, and anything over 9:1 and you really get diminishing returns on peak power potential. even 8000 HP top fuel engines run 6.5 to 7.0 : 1 CR's.

The high compression ratio is not as big of an issue on modern direct injected motors. My HHR is running between 20 - 25psi with 9.2 CR that's an effective ratio of around 24:1. Im still running 93 pump gas with no issues for almost 7 years. Some examples below:

Effective Comp Ratio for 5.0.

11.8:1 @ 6psi = 16.6
11.8:1 @ 15psi = 23.84

provided the bottom end and transmission can handle the torque, and you have some way to tune fuel and spark. I dont see why this isnt a reasonable goal. I have looked and the only standalone I know of that can handle direct injection is the Motec M142 or m182, and my pockets arent that deep. Still hoping the hyundai 5.0 ecu gets cracked.

 

[Chad86tsi]

The high compression ratio is not as big of an issue on modern direct injected motors. My HHR is running between 20 - 25psi with 9.2 CR that's an effective ratio of around 24:1. Im still running 93 pump gas with no issues for almost 7 years. Some examples below:

Effective Comp Ratio for 5.0.

11.8:1 @ 6psi = 16.6
11.8:1 @ 15psi = 23.84

provided the bottom end and transmission can handle the torque, and you have some way to tune fuel and spark. I dont see why this isnt a reasonable goal. I have looked and the only standalone I know of that can handle direct injection is the Motec M142 or m182, and my pockets arent that deep. Still hoping the hyundai 5.0 ecu gets cracked

And since we can't control the fuel and timing, this motor won't tolerate even a little boost at this CR.

Things like turbo efficiency due to needing to run lower boost pressures at high volumes also play in to this, which is why I mentioned diminishing returns.

A good comparison, the Ford Shelby GT500 is boosted to 12 PSI and has a CR of only 9.5:1 and makes 760 HP, where as the regular non-boosted mustang 5.0 is 12.0:1 CR and makes 460 HP. If high compression were good on a boosted motor, the Shelby GT500 would have used 12.0:1. There are reasons that wasn't done, and those reasons apply to the TAU 5.0 too.

This is not a motor with compression ratios that beg for boost like LS* engines do.

 

[carguy75]

why the LOL? I have a little bit of experience with tuning GDI. I have an HHR SS that I have been tinkering with for years using HP tuners. GDI loves timing and boost, you can get even more nuts with E85. Cant access any of it without a cracked ECU or a full standalone. I would love to have that same flexibility with the 5.0. Its such a great motor.

I hear you, but the 5.0 engine will need to some internal engine work to be a reliable boosted car. Yes, you can try to add force injection to it in stock form with the high compression pistons, but the engine will fail sooner than later. Not worth it for an expensive daily driver in my opinion.

I used "LOL" because the 5.0 is about as strong as it will get with stock internals. N/A engines require more work than a boosted engine which can be tricked into making more boost than stock like the 3.3T.

Most N/A engines only gain about 30-40HP tops(intake,exhaust,tuning) with external engine mods especially the factory detuned GM LS engines. I am not sure if Hyundai actually detuned the 5.0 V8 engine in stock form like an Chevy LS.

 

[fonque]

I used "LOL" because the 5.0 is about as strong as it will get with stock internals. N/A engines require more work than a boosted engine which can be tricked into making more boost than stock like the 3.3T.

Have you been able to confirm what the stock internals are made out of? The best I can find are pictures. The rods are either forged, or cast, machined and shot-peened because there is no dividing line on the side. I may order some loose rods off ebay to inspect.
I havent been able to find any information on the crank or the pistons. I have some pictures of the pistons from torn down engines, but aside from a few lattice marks on the bottom side of the pistons (maybe cast?) I have seen any indication of manufacturing process.
If we are lucky and we have a forged crank (not uncommon in this class of car), forged rods (fingers crossed), and cast pistons, I would estimate this motor could safely handle 600hp and 500 lbs/ft. That would put it inline with the 4.8 LS motors. The 4.8 LS motors are iron block, and all cast internals can handle 550 hp and 500lb/ft all day.

 

[fonque]

Here is the most detailed picture I could find of a rod. Maybe someone on here with more expertise can tell if this is forged or cast from the image. I cant tell without the casting center line which has clearly been machined off.

edit: I also tracked down this part number, and the same rod has been used in all of the v8's going back to 2013.

OEM Engine Piston Connecting Rod 5.0l V8 for Hyundai 235103F401 for sale online | eBay

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[carguy75]

One the easiest mods to do on teh 5.0 V8 is a throttle body coolant by-pass mod. The stock setup has the engine coolant flowing through the throttle body which keep the intake temperature reading in the 100F+ range even in the winter. My 5.0 engine intake air temps was over 120F in the summer without the coolant bypass. With the bypass my temps my temps has been hovering around 70-90F this winter. On average my air intake temps has dropped about 30F without the hot coolant flowing into the throttle body. My best guess is that my engine gains about 10-15hp from pulling in the 30F cooler air.

Coolant bypass mod

My best time over the Spring or summer. No time stamp, however it was before the coolant bypass mod. The intake temps were over 132F.

My intake temps today at 78F. My tablet is toast so I cannot get a good GPS lock with my phone so my 0-60 times are very inaccurate due to losing the GPS satellite where I do my 0-60 runs. The Torque app only gives me a 40-60mph time with my phone which is 2.1 seconds.

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[carguy75]

Have you been able to confirm what the stock internals are made out of? The best I can find are pictures. The rods are either forged, or cast, machined and shot-peened because there is no dividing line on the side. I may order some loose rods off ebay to inspect.
I havent been able to find any information on the crank or the pistons. I have some pictures of the pistons from torn down engines, but aside from a few lattice marks on the bottom side of the pistons (maybe cast?) I have seen any indication of manufacturing process.
If we are lucky and we have a forged crank (not uncommon in this class of car), forged rods (fingers crossed), and cast pistons, I would estimate this motor could safely handle 600hp and 500 lbs/ft. That would put it inline with the 4.8 LS motors. The 4.8 LS motors are iron block, and all cast internals can handle 550 hp and 500lb/ft all day.

To be honest, No idea.