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Hyundai genesis keyboard control switch p/n 96540-3m300-gs

Thanks, Mr. Incredible.

In my case, it's not the knob that is broken but the switch directly beneath it, the switch that is closed when you push down on the knob to select something on-screen.
(Well, it's broken some of the time--comes and goes...)

I wish to open up the assembly & get at that switch to see if I can improve it or replace it before buying the whole keyboard assembly.

Thanks,
-Jason
 
Thanks, Mr. Incredible.

In my case, it's not the knob that is broken but the switch directly beneath it, the switch that is closed when you push down on the knob to select something on-screen.
(Well, it's broken some of the time--comes and goes...)

I wish to open up the assembly & get at that switch to see if I can improve it or replace it before buying the whole keyboard assembly.

Thanks,
-Jason


back between 2005 and 2008 the Chrysler 300s had a similar issue with the "joystick" on their GPS radio (REC model)

I bought a broken unit on ebay for like $100 in 2006, took it apart and was able to get the part numbers off the circuit board and joystick, after some time searching through several OEM electronic supplier catalogs was able to locate the joystick that was being used, at the time it was a $7 part, I purchased a large supply of them and provided them to 300/magnum/charger forum members at cost.. I also would de-solder and replace them for any local members..

I suspect if you tear down the unit you can likely do the same, if you want to send me pictures of it after teardown (all sides and close up of any numbers on them) I might be able to cross reference it with the suppliers, while no longer in the industry I still have many contacts.
 
Incredible offer, Mr. Incredible.
Too kind.
But, a moot point, however.


The teardown:

1 - Pry snaps to remove lower front dashboard trim. Unplug connector to key cubby to be able to get panel well out of the way.

2 - Pop gear select knob off of shaft. This took a crowbar & some don't-scratch-up-the-interior-too-badly shop rags.

3 - Pry snaps to raise elbow rest top cover of center console.

4 - Shift into D to get a better angle on pulling off the console.

5 - Unplug 3 or so connectors to be able to slip the console panel over the gear selector shaft. Because I found it very difficult to squeeze the connectors to unplug them, I found that I could keep 2-3 connectors plugged in & flip console over to gain adequate access to the keyboard area.

6 - Undo 4 Phillips screws to remove the 96540-3M300-GS7 assembly (at least per the label on mine). Go to workbench to work properly.
6-Product label.webp

7 - Unit back cover is held on by 8 Torx screws. Unfortunately, I didn't have quite the right size Torx driver bit, so I stripped the head on the 8th screw after pulling out the other 7 easily. I tried a few driver bits & then had luck with a tapered tri wing driver bit that bit adequately well into 3 corners to be able to pull out the screw. Fortunately, they require little torque to break free & back out.
7-Back of keyboard unit.webp

8 - PCB is revealed. On the top side, just 1 connector snaking up through a hole is keeping PCB attached to assembly.
8-PCB.webp

9 - Pull away PCB to peek underneath. Find that unplugging that 1 connector will indeed release the PCB.
9-Peek at top of keyboard PCB .webp

10 - Notice that there are indeed 7 surface mount switches that correspond to the 7 buttons that surround the knob. But my problem is the knob push-in switch, so I don't care about these.
So, in reference to Mr. Incredible's post, if anybody has trouble w/ any of these 7 switches, these are pretty easy to get to, remove & replace.

11 - Pop off ribbon cable connector on top side of PCB. Remove PCB. This reveals that the ribbon cable comes from a sealed canister under the knob, & it must be this ribbon cable that is sending the PCB the knob's signals: twist L/R, push U/D/L/R, push in. 3 heavily globbed teensy weensy nuts hold a cover down.
11-Removed PCB, exposing knob.webp

12 - Remove 3 nuts *carefully* from their studs. Don't lose the 3 teensier weensier lock washer under each nut! You're now presented with a ball bearing on a compression spring. Also easy to lose. This gives the knob its upward preload, so it snaps back up after you push it in.
12-Removed 3 teensy nuts + lock washers to remove plate & find spring + ball bearing.webp


This is where I punted. The canister looks stout, I don't see a means of getting inside it, & I don't see a method to remove the canister from the frame. This might involve popping off the silver knob from the top side & then releasing the canister downward, but other posters in this thread lament the pains of a broken knob, & my knob is currently intact, so I'm not going to yank on it--I've already leaned on this thing *hard* to get the push-in switch to come back to life when it's in a coma, so the knob could very well be 1 yoink away from breaking.


Hope this was of help. If somebody knows the next steps to getting into that knob canister, please do share.

Thanks,
-Jason
 
I got one off eBay.
Works perfectly.

So I replaced the knob; only to my disappointment same problem. So now I'm looking for a DIS module to purchase and replace in mine.
 
Mark_888, I replaced my DIS (Driver Info System). I still have the old one, from which you can remove/reuse the knob.
I'll gladly part of it for just shipping cost.
PM me to arrange for shipping.
Hi, do you still have this know as my husband has completely lost ours? Thanks in advance (hopefully) juli
 
I own a 2012 4.6 Hyundai Genesis with the technology package. The other day the center console knob came off while I was in the middle of changing satellite channels. I went to the Hyundai Dealership to order the knob but I was told that I would have to pay $400.00 for the unit (called a Keyboard Control Switch part number 96540-3M300-GS) when all I need is the knob. I've tried going to the local junkyard but there aren't many wrecked Genesis in this area (with the technology package). My question is does anyone here know how I can go about getting this knob without have to spend a fortune for it? $400.00 is just too much for a knob.

-MaximumMel
I have the same problem e-Bay has some
 
back between 2005 and 2008 the Chrysler 300s had a similar issue with the "joystick" on their GPS radio (REC model)

I bought a broken unit on ebay for like $100 in 2006, took it apart and was able to get the part numbers off the circuit board and joystick, after some time searching through several OEM electronic supplier catalogs was able to locate the joystick that was being used, at the time it was a $7 part, I purchased a large supply of them and provided them to 300/magnum/charger forum members at cost.. I also would de-solder and replace them for any local members..

I suspect if you tear down the unit you can likely do the same, if you want to send me pictures of it after teardown (all sides and close up of any numbers on them) I might be able to cross reference it with the suppliers, while no longer in the industry I still have many contacts.
Do you have the parts numbers for these items?
My car is having the same problem broken Knob and intermediate switch.
 
Do you have the parts numbers for these items?
My car is having the same problem broken Knob and intermediate switch.

No. No one has sent me images or part numbers.
 
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