Improved positive battery terminal box

[Suburbazine]

By improved, I mean liberally butchered with a rotozip. But hey, my car no longer dies without rhyme or reason... and remote start works again.

Exhibit A: pot metal terminal made by Hyundai and sold for $1400



Exhibit B: pot metal terminal made by Hyundai for $14. Of superior design.


Exhibit C: butchery of terminal box to permit installation of differently sized terminal



Exhibit D: how the new terminal mounts to the load bar assembly with copper crush washers to fit lower on terminal for improved clamping force


Exhibit E: installed in terminal box




Potential issue: main battery cable needs to be 0.75” longer to reach new lug positioning since entire terminal box is moved away. Careful massaging can coax out more wire.

 

[carguy75]

It seemed like the original terminal only need to be cleaned to remove the dark corrosion for better conductivity. However, the newer terminal may be an improved design which could help as well.

 

[Suburbazine]

It seemed like the original terminal only need to be cleaned to remove the dark corrosion for better conductivity. However, the newer terminal may be an improved design which could help as well.

The original terminal couldn’t close far enough to hold the battery post after the teeth got burnt off. The bigger issue is that the terminal box is treated as a floor support and loads in the trunk cause the box to twist. Cutting the box down a little bit stops it from being able to twist the terminal.

Maximum tightness:


The big hitter on the terminal isn’t starting the engine, it’s using the steering wheel. EPS pulls 80-120 amps continuously when in use and all the weak links get hot quickly.

 

[Markymark]

The original terminal couldn’t close far enough to hold the battery post after the teeth got burnt off. The bigger issue is that the terminal box is treated as a floor support and loads in the trunk cause the box to twist. Cutting the box down a little bit stops it from being able to twist the terminal.

Maximum tightness:
View attachment 34102

The big hitter on the terminal isn’t starting the engine, it’s using the steering wheel. EPS pulls 80-120 amps continuously when in use and all the weak links get hot quickly.

Are you sure it's 80-120? That seems high to me. I think that's more than the startup draw for a big AC compressor.

 

[joegr]

Are you sure it's 80-120? That seems high to me. I think that's more than the startup draw for a big AC compressor.

Yeah, it seems high to me to, but the fuse for the system is 125A. Still I can see that for surges when suddenly rapidly turning the wheel, but there is no way that continuous current is anywhere near that. Continuous is probably only a few amps. Much of the time, it's not doing anything but waiting for you to move the wheel.

Are you comparing the 12V DC steering to a 120V AC compressor?

 

[Suburbazine]

Are you sure it's 80-120? That seems high to me. I think that's more than the startup draw for a big AC compressor.

"In use" means actually moving the steering wheel or when the tires are moving. During normal driving operation (like a straight line down an interstate) the "idle" draw is still 20-25A because it's smoothing out the road input. If you're moving at low speeds like a parking lot, the draw is much, much higher (bursts up to 120A, slow blow 125A fuse). Turning the wheel with the car at rest will continuously net you 80+ amps.

The biggest number you'll ever see is if you clip a bad pothole or scrub a curb- brief impulse will reach north of 140A. Again, slow blow fuse (that whole fuse card is slow blow) which means if you actually do blow one there's either a serious issue or abuse at work.

The EPS is the reason you have a huge honking battery in the trunk- the alternator can't supply enough power to operate the EPS under elevated load conditions so it's much easier to just recharge the battery during during the much lower average draws.

I will see if I can get a video for you- the EPS has its own internal ammeter which can be logged by GDS.

 

[carguy75]

The original terminal couldn’t close far enough to hold the battery post after the teeth got burnt off. The bigger issue is that the terminal box is treated as a floor support and loads in the trunk cause the box to twist. Cutting the box down a little bit stops it from being able to twist the terminal.

Maximum tightness:
View attachment 34102

The big hitter on the terminal isn’t starting the engine, it’s using the steering wheel. EPS pulls 80-120 amps continuously when in use and all the weak links get hot quickly.

I see. I forgot that the battery terminals can also suffer physical damage from metal fatigue or excess current.

My Genesis battery terminals seem to be a tight fit and clean, however I will remember to check them if I have any electrical related issues first since they may be a weak link in the electrical system.

Note: Dirty or corroded battery terminals can also cause a electrical system to draw more current due to additional resistance which could burn up wiring and terminals over time. Hence why I always clean my battery terminals and use protective spray on them to prevent corrosion.

 

[NC356]

Suburbazine,
Thanks for this information!
Questions (bear in mind too cold for old me to go out and study my '16)
1: Might you extend the existing load bar by the 3/4" with a copper flat bar?
2: Can you give us the p/n for the improved clamp terminal?

 

[Suburbazine]

Suburbazine,
Thanks for this information!
Questions (bear in mind too cold for old me to go out and study my '16)
1: Might you extend the existing load bar by the 3/4" with a copper flat bar?
2: Can you give us the p/n for the improved clamp terminal?

I had considered an extension bar, but the 80 Amp accessory cable is also part of the battery cable assembly and would be too short still.

The terminal I used was this:

Amazon.com: Genuine Hyundai 37260-2E100 Positive Battery Terminal: Automotive

Buy Genuine Hyundai 37260-2E100 Positive Battery Terminal: Terminals & Ends - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[sailorbill]

By improved, I mean liberally butchered with a rotozip. But hey, my car no longer dies without rhyme or reason... and remote start works again.

Exhibit A: pot metal terminal made by Hyundai and sold for $1400

View attachment 34097

Exhibit B: pot metal terminal made by Hyundai for $14. Of superior design.
View attachment 34098

Exhibit C: butchery of terminal box to permit installation of differently sized terminal

View attachment 34095

Exhibit D: how the new terminal mounts to the load bar assembly with copper crush washers to fit lower on terminal for improved clamping force
View attachment 34100

Exhibit E: installed in terminal box
View attachment 34099
View attachment 34096
View attachment 34101

Potential issue: main battery cable needs to be 0.75” longer to reach new lug positioning since entire terminal box is moved away. Careful massaging can coax out more wire.

I had considered an extension bar, but the 80 Amp accessory cable is also part of the battery cable assembly and would be too short still.

The terminal I used was this:

Amazon.com: Genuine Hyundai 37260-2E100 Positive Battery Terminal: Automotive

Buy Genuine Hyundai 37260-2E100 Positive Battery Terminal: Terminals & Ends - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Hi- changing batteries , I had the bolt break off- and don't see any fix outside of what you did.
where did you get the terminal block you show for $14?

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[sailorbill]

Hi- changing batteries , I had the bolt break off- and don't see any fix outside of what you did.
where did you get the terminal block you show for $14?

so you used two of these? And how did you get the old one out of the plastic box. Does the plastic dis-assemble? or brute force?
thanks for info, by the way

 

[Suburbazine]

so you used two of these? And how did you get the old one out of the plastic box. Does the plastic dis-assemble? or brute force?
thanks for info, by the way

Yes, the box fully disassembles. The top half pries out to reveal all the studs and you can tear down from there pretty easily.

You only need one terminal from the Amazon link. Refer to pictures in first post for assembly.

 

[hkross]

Thanks for writing this post. I looked at my battery terminal after reading it. My 15 Genesis was having intermittent electronic glitches. When I inspected at the the terminal, it just lifted off the post, and the bolt was tightened fully. I went to O'Reilly auto parts and got a "post shim" which slid over the post to increase the diameter of the post for $3.00. Then I could tighten the connection without any other modification. I was expecting to spend $5K for a new computer board since Hyundai said they would not be able to fix it since it was not doing it all the time and they would just start replacing parts (if they could get them).

 

[Suburbazine]

Thanks for writing this post. I looked at my battery terminal after reading it. My 15 Genesis was having intermittent electronic glitches. When I inspected at the the terminal, it just lifted off the post, and the bolt was tightened fully. I went to O'Reilly auto parts and got a "post shim" which slid over the post to increase the diameter of the post for $3.00. Then I could tighten the connection without any other modification. I was expecting to spend $5K for a new computer board since Hyundai said they would not be able to fix it since it was not doing it all the time and they would just start replacing parts (if they could get them).

The post shim method can cause additional issues with the power steering, the shim will allow the terminal to slip if weight is put in the trunk over the battery box. Might not be an immediate fault, but the original issue with the battery box is that the terminal is all that supports the floor of the trunk.

 

[hkross]

Thanks, in my case the problem was the terminal was loose and could not tighten around the post without the shim. There has never been any weight in my trunk that the tire tool kit under the tray does not adequately support. My tray is not bowed, is factory flat and has not been in contact with the battery box. What is odd is that battery was replaced 2 years ago and just now caused problems with the poor connection. I will be careful to not place anything heavy over that corner. Thanks again.

 

[Genuine]

Just had to replace my positive terminal on my 18 G80. What a pain in the arse.

I assume it got loose from the bad design of the clamping mechanism and mostly from heavy stuff resting on top. Due to the trunk liner being basically carpet and fiberboard. I know its a luxury car not meant for hauling lumber and rocks. But jeez I have to put groceries and kitty litter and stuff back there. 1/10 design. Working on building a plywood shelf to put over and bridge the gap. IDK what you're talking about $1400 though. I got a cheapy eBay one but I see OEM ones (PN 91980-3X010) for $21 plus shipping.

 

[Jazzyjff]

I have a 2017 Genesis G80 and never thought of a shim. I landed up breaking the bolt on the positive terminal connector inside the fuse box. I can't figure out how you got it apart to replace pieces and can't seem to find the replacement OEM positive terminal fuse box online except on ebay. How did you open up the fuse terminal to replace the positive terminal connector.

 

[Genuine]

I have a 2017 Genesis G80 and never thought of a shim. I landed up breaking the bolt on the positive terminal connector inside the fuse box. I can't figure out how you got it apart to replace pieces and can't seem to find the replacement OEM positive terminal fuse box online except on ebay. How did you open up the fuse terminal to replace the positive terminal connector.

I had to replace the loose terminal on my 2018 G80 and I just used a flat head carefully to pry open the black box itself. IIRC my plastic trim tools weren't strong enough.

 

[Jazzyjff]

I had to replace the loose terminal on my 2018 G80 and I just used a flat head carefully to pry open the black box itself. IIRC my plastic trim tools weren't strong enough.

Is it the pin locations on what seems to be a top cover that you pried at?

 

[lopedogg]

very timely thread, just came back to a 95% dead battery after letting it sit for 10 days, very disappointing as the battery was fully charged beforehand. I noticed it is very hard to get a good connection for jumpstarting due to the PIA positive terminal design + not having a good ground point under the hood by the good positive terminal post. I will be checking my positive terminal again to make sure its tight, temped to get this part and weld and extra post to the top of it for future use.