3.3T Intake comparisons

[twister]

Throw caution to the wind. You'll be glad you did.

What MAP are you running on JB4? I had that and BMS intakes (sound great) and I go into dealer all the time. But to be honest I switched to Lozic ECU and TCU and its a totally different car and its much easier to remove than the JB4 if you need to before a trip to the dealer. I'm talking 3.6ish 0-60 and sub 12 sec 1/4 mile.

 

[MichaelJohnson]

What MAP are you running on JB4? I had that and BMS intakes (sound great) and I go into dealer all the time. But to be honest I switched to Lozic ECU and TCU and its a totally different car and its much easier to remove than the JB4 if you need to before a trip to the dealer. I'm talking 3.6ish 0-60 and sub 12 sec 1/4 mile.

Map 2 when I turn it on. I've heard great things about the available ECU and TCU tunes but I can't justify the purchase. The JB4 is plenty for me.

 

[frankietfranks]

Just wanted to note another option that's free. A fellow on the Stinger forum removed the OEM intake's 90 degree elbow just behind the bumper. He measured the restriction of that piece to be 5 inches of vacuum. The total vacuum of the intake is 9 inches. So removal drops the entire intake to just 4 inches of vacuum, which means less restriction, thus more flow. Also perfectly safe from rain/water and a straight shot into the intake box. Lastly, still direct cold air.

I did it and feel better throttle response and more mid range grunt. I also like that it stays quiet.

View attachment 27820View attachment 27820

I know this is an old thread but I ran across something in my car when preparing to drop in some AEM panels. I am the 2nd owner so I have to assume I have been driving the car around for 10 months with the attachment tubes missing- both sides. No idea why they would have been removed other than a mechanic was poking around and never put them back on. Pictures as to what I am referring to:

 

[blue92lx]

What MAP are you running on JB4? I had that and BMS intakes (sound great) and I go into dealer all the time. But to be honest I switched to Lozic ECU and TCU and its a totally different car and its much easier to remove than the JB4 if you need to before a trip to the dealer. I'm talking 3.6ish 0-60 and sub 12 sec 1/4 mile.

Just FYI, not sure about the ECU tune that can be removed, but even if you remove a JB4 your car can still be flagged for non warranty. They can look in the logs and it'll show abnormal numbers and they can document it as like "abnormal numbers in the logs showing an aftermarket tune was used" and then you're screwed.

I wanted to do a JB4 but the warranty is too important to me to not have it on a brand new car.

 

[Beefer]

Just FYI, not sure about the ECU tune that can be removed, but even if you remove a JB4 your car can still be flagged for non warranty. They can look in the logs and it'll show abnormal numbers and they can document it as like "abnormal numbers in the logs showing an aftermarket tune was used" and then you're screwed.

I wanted to do a JB4 but the warranty is too important to me to not have it on a brand new car.

BS

The JB4 is after the ECU

 

[Volfy]

With a piggyback system like JB4, there is nothing in the datastream that would indicate "abnormal" operations.

 

[blue92lx]

With a piggyback system like JB4, there is nothing in the datastream that would indicate "abnormal" operations.

Start at 11:18 and you'll see what I mean.

Don't be fooled either, a lot of BMW owners have found out the exact same thing with JB4 tuners on their cars. Take everything off, "it's after the ECU so nothing is recorded", warranty is void because deeper in the logs it records numbers that aren't correct, even though it doesn't say a tuner was installed, the numbers don't match stock numbers so they flag it for a tuner.

Go look at BMW forums for yourself. It's not new, and this guy found out the exact same thing on his Stinger.

 

[Volfy]

We are all free to believe whatever we want to believe. Personally, I'm not swayed by a guy on a YT vid calling people who disagree with him "idiots".

It isn't so much that the piggyback is before or after the ECU. JB4 intercepts the boost pressure sensor wiring before it goes into the ECU. JB4 modifies the boost pressure data to conform to what the ECU expects to see. You can verify this yourself by having the JB4 app on one phone display, and Torque Pro app on another phone display AT THE SAME TIME, showing the same boost pressure reported via OBD2 port, which comes directly from the ECU. I have done this myself and the peak boost pressure shown on Torque Pro is different/lower than what JB4 app shows.

But... let's just say hypothetically, there is some hidden 2nd boost pressure sensor nobody knows about, so the ECU can actually see what the real boost pressure was. As I mentioned previously, I run map0 in everyday driving and map1 only at track events. If such "deep" datalogs exist, vast majority of the data would appear "stock" and "normal" precisely because that is what I run 99% of the time. They would have a tough time justifying denial on any "abnormalities" appearing less than 1% in the logs - and that's if they could even fish that needle out of a laystack of random data.

My stance on mods vs. warranty is that if my mod(s) actually causes damage, I have no right to stick the repair bill on Kia's warranty. I have zero sympathy for guys that run map7 or 8 all day long, blow up their engine, and tries to fool Kia service into believing their car was bone stock. Man up and take the responsibility. I can't help but think one reason Kia is quitting Stinger is because of all the shenanigans owners have tried pull on them.